I have a 88TC with the teves2 system I want to swap vacuum booster from 88tbird sport looks like direct swap.
If I do this how will brakes do under hard braking will it stop or slide to stop don't want to slide 300 ft lol.
Figured members have done this swap so any info appreciated
If you delete the ABS then the wheels will lock up on the pavement if the brakes can overcome the tires ability to stick to the pavement i.e. coefficient of friction.
I'm guessing you want to swap in a master cylinder and brake booster from an 88 sport
The TC has larger brakes in front and disc on the back instead of drums so you need to move more fluid than the sport Mc can supply
It might work but your pedal might be a little soft
You'll need a manual proportioning valve as well to get the correct rear brake bias
Thanks.
I knew that brakes would lock just wanted to know if anyone has done that and how was the braking. I don't really want to swap but mine stopped working I talked to ppl on this forum and they gave me input on the teves system so I diagnosed that the pressure warning switch ain't working took the one off my parts car and cant get switch off my car so I'm in process of pulling the system off just thought that just maybe wouldn't b meany problems if I swap
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Any fox booster with any master will make the brakes work. The resulting feel maybe less than desired as well as the total performance. The booster and pedal are force multipliers. The pedal a leaver and the booster piston driven by differential pressure.
You can add assist with larger diameter boosters or multple diaphragm units.
You can add fluid volume with larger diameter masters. Make the bore too large and the travel will be very short and the feedback limited but the car will certainly stop either way.
Im not advocating doing no reasearch but to make it work you dont need a 88 tbird sport booster and only that will do. A 93 cobra and 87-93 mustang booster will work. Personally I would swap from a 3 port master to a 2 port. But im not familiar with the abs tbrid brake line configuration on the chassis end.
You will run into incorrect master cylinder port threads vs your chassis lines depending on the master, but its not that hard to change the nuts and reflare depending on what you install.
Thanks for imfo I'm trying to get brakes working I was looking for different options just in cause I can figure out what's going on
I read on another forum that a guy swap out the teves2 system out of his TC for a 94-95 mustang gt booster and master cylinder and he said works good.
I wonder if I did this swap would the abs still work considering that the abs is separate system
No because it isn't a separate system, both are built into the Teves unit...
Probably a MC and booster for a non-ABS '98-'02 Grand Marquis or Crown Vic would fill the bill, brake size front and rear are similar... You'd need to research fitment but I can tell you my '98 Grand Marquis without ABS has some of the best feeling brakes I've seen, feel similar to my Turbo Coupe(at least till they lock up, but if you know how to use them std brakes are fine )... The feel of the ABS brakes on my '07 MGM sucks compared to the '98...
K thanks I'll have to do more research before I do anything.
I'd much rather keep the teves2 system just don't understand what's going on I've replaced relay the ign.switch and the wiring harness to both relay and ignition switch still pump not coming on so I went through NATO and dianosed the relay using a jumper wire and relay worked and still no pump so I jumped the pressure switch and pump came on so I figure its pressure switch problem so I swapped the switch from my parts car had the same outcome so I figured I swap to booster brakes just don't know best route and what parts I'll need to swap with. It would b nice if I could find a pressure switch might b problem might not any suggestions help full thanks
You need to check the pressure switch for continuity, either with ohm meter or test light...
If pump runs with pressure switch jumped, it has to be the switch or some issue with mounting/installation or maybe electrical connector... AFAIK there is no magic inside the pressure switch, it's either open or closed...
K thanks just don't know what else to do with it bout ready to swap with boosted brakes
I did the swap you are talking about several years ago on one of my TC's. I used a booster/master cylinder from a 5.0 bird.
The pedal was very soft, like stepping on a pillow. It did stop the car ok but it did not instill any confidence in your ability to stop quickly, lol.
My current running TC has a 94-95 Cobra MC but no booster. I am a running an adjustable prop valve for the rear brakes on this one. It stops ok around town but the pedal is pretty stiff. 130mph shutdowns at the track are "OMG, can I get it shut down in time for the turnoff?!" I did not move the pivot point on the brake pedal but will be doing that this winter. I expect that will improve the braking a good bit.
So I need to check pressure switch itself. If pressure switch doesn't check out where can I get a pressure
switch i don't think that is really problem cause two different switches same out come
I did a continuity test on my pressure switch I took out off my car two of the pins didn't pass does that mean switch is bad or contacts in switch open? I haven't tested the switch l put n my car but can say I had same outcome so I tested everything again (relay with jumper wire)pump comes on(relay plugged back in and jump wire on PWS harnes) pump comes on I have changed relay and wiringharness and changed ignition switch and wiring harness after all this I think PWS is bad I'm fine with that if I could find one. I can get the whole thing at auto zone for $480 but don't have that kind of cash them find out that that part I discontinued so dont know were to get one for my car I feel like it would b cheaper to do a booster and MC swap would prop b better n long run. So what y'all think I'm ready to swap just really need to know what other car I could get off of. I'm thinking as long as its 4wdisk and have around the same disk side it should b alright I just trying to verify what I've been reading wat esle do I need to know I'm thinking mid 90s mustang gt I found 93 grand marquis has a hugh booster I think thats to much for my car thanks
What color wires are you jumping to get pump to run??? I assume grey and pink/lt blue??
Those are the bottom(two row) and top right(three row) terminals on the pressure switch, if there is no continuity switch is bad... Other terminals operate low fluid or low pressure(red brake) lights...
I went by NATOs FAQ and used it teves 2 diagnosis so jumped relay using the T/Y&GY/R pump came on then I jumped pins 1&4 on PWS harness which is P/B&GY and pump came on and if I'm correct pins 1&4 are the two on the PWS that r not getting continuity
-- ++ ++
-- ++
This is the pins n PWS I have continuity on the plus pins none on other two and they r the two I jumped to make pump run so I'm assuming switch bad
OK what you've done is apparently correct(looking at shop manual troubleshooting, NATO is down at moment)... I checked switch on my spare unit and apparently it has same issue...
So considering the prob with finding part it would b best to swap to booster MC assembly since I can find parts. Wat would be suggest u said earlier in forum 98-2000 grand marquis. I think it might b good for my car considering it stops a 4000 lb car pretty good but I don't want to hit brakes and fly threw windshield lol. Maybe a smaller booster I think MC would work fine but booster is my concern I wonder if I could use booster off 88 sport bird and use MC off mustang or marquis if it will bolt up to one another wat u think. Thanks
Going back and looking at the switch diagram, we're getting the correct readings on switch,
the two pins on left are supposed to open until there is full pressure on system(pump cut off)... A open circuit here signals the ABS controller module in trunk to turn on light... Sooo if you can jump the two pins on far right and pump runs, the plug must be damaged...
NOTE, I assume you are using lowest resistance setting on meter??? On a high setting it's easy to get false readings...
If you swap don't worry about size of car the MC came from, AFAIK it's impossible to over brake a vehicle(and why 13" brakes from a late Stang are swapped on to earlier models)... At most would require less pedal pressure for same amount of stopping distance...
Yes I was using lowest setting on meter and the marquis I was looking at is a 92-93 with 4wdisk just figured it would good was just told bigger booster has softer pedal b4 brakes actually come n I'm not a specialist at this in fact I've never done a swap like this so I'm thinking about getting the system off marquis. My car been sitting to long and all it needs is brakes. I would like to fix teves system but running out of time and patients 2mths of sitting is crazy concidering all I did was swapped rear end then had no brakes. I replaced relay cause 3 wks ago pump ran but relay was making lot noise so but pump was running now its back to nothing again don't know much about abs system so if I try to fix I need to b walkd through it thanks for all your help and time. I think I'm better off to swap systems cause if happens again then I'm back to drawing board I just couldn't understand y I had no problems at all then no brakes and car was just sitting but one thing I don't get is y when the pump ran 3wks ago the accumulater never filled and built pressure after car ran for 20mins or so and pump was running makes me think I'm over my head
A 93 Mustang Cobra master and booster might work pretty well. The 93 Cobra had what was basically Turbo Coupe brakes front and rear with a standard booster and master cylinder assembly.
I've looked into a fox cobra parts but I'll have to buy all new parts and then run new lines to make work considering I'm starting from scratch and $$$ is an issue that's y I've been junkyard hopping to find all components I need to swap so I found the marquis which should b close to what I need just need to do more research b4 I buy parts
If there is no assist with pump running you have other issues(could be air locked), not running at all with switch jumped is probably a open fuse link or bad relay...
Good luck with swap, no experience there, I've always fixed the Teves...
I thought about air lock just don't know how to get out. The only prob with swap I'm going from 3 lines vs 2
But I think I can figure out.
Thanks
http://www.maximummotorsports.com/Master-Cylinder-Installation-Kit-1993-Cobra1994-95-GT-mc-in-1987-93-Mustang-P673.aspx
Pretty sure thats what this is for ^^^
When I bought my 93 cobra MC it came with this kit, this along with a couple flared adaptors I eliminated my stock proportioning valve, Installed a wilwood manual prop valve and bolted it all up to the stock brake lines. Works absolutely awesome and Ive put plenty of long hard miles on this setup so its definitely reliable.
Ramos617
What did u install that system on
Was it tbird???
Just asking I went and got booster and MC off a 1994 mustang gt today just wondering if u have to have all the extra parts to make work I'm guessing yes
I went to maximum motorsports site and they show that u have to have all the parts to swap if u have drums n rear. My question is considering that my car has fwdisk would I have to have all that concidering how much pressure the teves system produced n rear. I just don't want to buy unnecessary parts if don't need them
Yea this was all on my 87 Tbird turbo coupe
If you have an 88 TC then you should already have 4 wheel disc
For the MC and BB that you bought, it should work but your probably going to have to slot one of the holes on the firewall for in to slide in
The sn95 (94-98 Mustangs) have one of the brake booster bolts that doesn't exactly match the Fox pattern
I don't have any parts to convert over again, I did buy my proportioning valve from maximum motorsports though
K thanks for help I'll order parts and go from there
Finally got brakes working the MC swap kit works good. I drove car today car stopped good but is it normal when it has more pedal travel
Feel like front ain't grabbing like they should and under hard braking no lock up which I rather have I might need to rebleed front brakes. Thanks for all yalls help