I need a new short block.
Car gets hot and gauge shows a loss of oil pressure. I had fixed all of the gauge issues last year. Now when it gets hot I open the hood, blip the throttle body, and I can ever so slightly hear a little noise from the bottom end on deceleration.....
WONDERFUL..... :mad:
oh balls....
I noticed some upper end knock, I think, the other day. I said screw it and keep driving it. I only notice it after it idles for a few minutes.
Good luck with yours. What is the specs, mileage etc....
Crank and pistons have about 40k miles on them. Done back in 2000.... New bearings as well.... Stock bottom end stuff.
Putting my hand on the fender I can feel it.
$1,500 and someone can take the car. I'm shaging DONE.
Jesus tap-dancing Christ. :(
I don't know what to say. That just sucks.
I've been reading about the manner in which 302 blocks split under high horsepower/bad tune/stress and the "loss of oil pressure" comment made me think about that. But you think this is a rotating assembly issue? I was pretty sure that thing was dialed in real nice. Some will claim "Oh yaaa I've seen one split at 300 horsepower!" Maybe if it was DEAD lean all the time but 1hp/cu inch just isn't that much stress.
95% sure it's rod knock. 100% sure it's bottom end. Passenger side. Sounds like the #3.....
The kick in the ass is it has ZERO loss in power.... The idle is all over the place now too was idling at 1600 in the driveway. I disconnected the IAC and it did nothing. Just sat there (with no knock) until I shut it off and restarted it. Got the idle to come down to 750 and you can just barely hear it. With the hood closed it's inaudible.
$200 plus shipping and ill give ya the block I've had new on the stand forever. Bought a car with a bad motor, threw a new block in it and the trans only had 1 gear. 20 miles or so on it with some junk used stuff attached.
Bought another car for the trans and tries to blow the motor and it never happened.
Swap the engine. You know it isn't hard, and you got 15 years from that one. I swapped mine not long ago. it took us 6 hours to install it, which included taking the cam and heads from the old engine along with the intake.
I got 15 years, but less than 40K.....
Stacks, got pics of the block? Any idea the mileage on it? What's it out of?
I'm at a crossroads. The last 5 years have been much more down time then drive time with this car.
New to me block from a friend pending......
Roller block 306, Eagle rotating assembly.....Price was right.
The fun should start sometime this week. Time to start working OT.
I have a bare block that *appears* freshly honed, no idea on its previous history but if you met me halfway or thereabouts I'd just give it to ya. I got it as part of a parts grab-bag deal and it's been sitting inside for 3 years. I don't NEED the thing and the exterior has light surface rust. All of the innards look great. Then all you'd have to do is get it checked out and good to go?
Cursed or not, that's your car man :)
AND, and, 1500 would be a smoking deal for someone but that would be terrible. That thing's totally rust free right? No subframe issues? I know I've seen pics of the interior, it's black and sinister, all of the mods you've set up...you just can't find these cars like that. Don't let her go you'll be kicking yourself, and you know it.
Right side frame rail has a hole smaller than a dime that's been there for 3 years and hasn't grown. I had one spot below the rear window after this winter that I sanded, painted, and blended. Gotta redo the clear on it. It's a wee bit hazy. Underside of the car is clean.
Nothing's set in stone yet. Offer's still up for the car. I really should just concentrate on one toy at his point....
Yeah you should swap the drivetrain from that Giant Turd into the Cougar!!! :D (no offense on the Mustang though. If you love it, run with it.)
Hey tastes change and people change. But you'll never lose your hankering for these cars. They're a true disease, you're stuck with it!
If I didn't JUST buy another BLACK COUGAR I'd come and get the thing LOL.
The Mustang is faster, but it doesn't have that........SOUL...... it doesn't FEEL alive. It's close, but only after putting a ton of work into it. The Cougar is intuitive. An extension of myself if you will what with everything I've done to it. Even the LSC has a hankering of that feeling in stock form.
Somewhere before 2000 auto manufacturers lost that. The car as a machine is overall a much better piece of equipment than what was the average offering 30 years ago. I'd LOVE to take my wife's 2012 Focus SE with it's 160 hp 2.0l engine and take it to the dragstrip against the Mark VII; both in totally stock form with fresh tune ups. I think the extra 2 gears and less weight would put them pretty close.
I can pretty much guarantee that the Focus would smoke any STOCK fox body Cougar/Tbird. It pulled 143 hp on a friend's dyno. That translates to less than an 11% drivetrain loss....
Still doesn't mean it's more fun to drive. FWIW -- I've driven the old 3rd gen Camaros that were around when the fox platform was in full swing. They don't hold a candle to our cars. THey still have more character than most new stuff.
Maybe it's the imperfections that make older stuff more fun, more "organic". The more precise the machine gets, the more machine-like it is, and less something that you can "relate to" if that makes any sense. Now that's not to say that an '87 Toyota Camry is going to be a really enjoyable car, surely it's steering is also not as tight and its panel gaps not like what we see built now. The Audi A5 is a pretty good seller, for the set that its aimed at. Not everyone is buying one, but its a luxury car. The big two-door cruiser ain't dead yet. Someone just needs to make one worthwhile, and that one happens to be, very much so.
I'd love to take one in 20 years and drop a big block in it or something :hick:
I agree! I really like my '07 3v Mustang, but when driving the T-bird as a driver I just feel so much more "precise". I can heel toe really well in the T-bird but find it difficult to do with the pedal arrangement and hydraulic clutch in the 'stang. Maybe its just because the T-bird has been with me for so long, but it just fits like an old baseball glove or something.
Hopefully you get this fixed and taken care of so you can enjoy the car again. I do feel like I'm actually driving my Thunderbird much more than my Mustang. Mine rides very well, almost like a newer car, but the snarl from the engine and the way it preforms makes it feel more alive to me.
Paul, let me know if stuff doesn't work out with your buddies block.
Mine was ordered through autozone almost 10 years ago as replacement for a 85gt. I bought another car with a blown motor, swapped the block in and it only had 1st gear. Literally maybe 4 or 5 hours of run time on it, and a few around the block drives trying to get more then 1st gear to engage.
It just has some stock junk on the top end, new oilpump and that's it. The junkyard wanted $450 for a used trans with a 30 day exchange. I found a car with burned up wiring for $350, swapped the fuse able links in it from the car with the bad engine and trans and it ended up running really well. So i ended up just pulling the motor out and throwing it on the stand and haven't touched it since.
Every car I've had, even with higher miles, I've beat the crab out of and not changed the oil or done anything to prolong its life, and none of them ever blew the engine. When the body, suspension or trans cost more to fix then replace, i just bought another $500 car.
Id rather the block went to a good home then collected dust for another 10 years. I remember looking at pictures of your car in the sleazy board days and i wanna say it was cat of the month once? I wanna say you swapped it from a 3.8 to the 5.0 and other things. If a couple hundred dollars would help you keep your car going, id want you to have it.
Put a manual gauge on her today....
Hot idle 700 RPM: 8 PSI
2000 RPM Hot : 25 PSI
That's a far cry from the 20ish and 50+ I had 2 years ago. The new block gets picked up next week.. ..
That's a little on the low side.....
Juuuuuuust a bit.
I HAD TA
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bFTFKQZxsCk/U-WohUzBaQI/AAAAAAAAWe0/IoFGsjq4Wa0/s1600/Looks+Good+to+me.jpg)
OK. The plan is swap all my stuff onto the new block MINUS the intake manifold. A work colleague has a Holley Systemax II that's been sitting collecting dust. Should work with my combo nicely.
Also; anyone got any NICE valve covers that they're willing to part with? Something not stock? Mine are.......MEH.....
The car has to go a last 15 mile drive to where we're gonna be tearing into it. I have some Mobil 1 15-50 here that I may as well swap in before that. I wanna see what's in my pan without pulling her apart in my driveway. My neighbors were pissed enough I was messing with the car at 1 o'clock in the morning this week.....
I'll add. I know ANOTHER person who was running an old Powerdyne BD-11. He has a new setup now, but I think he's still got the old blower and it was in good condition when he pulled it off......
it it it it it it it it....... This car keeps pulling me back in!!!!
this sux to hear ,
there is a mistake somewhere for this to be happening., regardless there is a noise.
my 20th does this all the time but im at 288k miles now. I just run rotella 15-40 and ignore engine noises.
I don't really care, theres no noise when im pushin on the gas so .............
we had my sons block line bored and the shop punched in new crank journals , should have been back to perfect specs but..... in order to get .001 or less oil clearance we had to wet sand the back side of each bearing journal individually and remeasure. some of his clearances were in the tenthousanths range so he ran a thin oil for a long long while.
I hope you can remember or find the documentation on what your mains were,, and rods. maybe you started out too floppy and then made the mistake of running thinner break in oil too long.
I just want to hear bout you fixing it or I have your 1500$ now. its funny cause your car is where we are heading to with my old white coug that's going to chance my youngest boy. He filled up diapers in the back seat of that car,, we are building a 20year plus survivor he can enjoy. we make small step progress almost daily and he's really learning a lot.,, and I can only teach what I know and im no expert.
I Know you well enough now im pretty sure you will CSI the crime scene and update us on where the problem is ,, im interested to see this myself because your not the kind of person to allow too much risk into your projects.
I changed the oil.
No signs of metal or anything obvious. Cold start idle pressure with the new was 46.... A marked improvement. OK. Hot idle: 20..... 2000 RPM Hot: 44. Weird... It was running around 10 minutes when I took the readings for hot.
I used the exact same part # filter as before. The old oil was put in back in early April. It had approximately 300 miles on it.
On to the noise. Interesting to say the least. With a dead cold engine not running, I grabbed the #1 primary header with my hand . I give it pressure in an up or down motion. Not a lot. I hear a knock every time. Nothing feels loose. I figured the headers were rubbing on the motor mount. Nope. I'm wondering if the Mount bolt is loose....
Regardless, the old block is coming out. I have a multitude of stuff I've been amassing to upgrade. There is possibility of a supercharger as well... Apparently an acquaintance changed his setup and still has his old unit. We'll see.
Kenne Bell?
Old school Powerdyne BD-11 rebuilt with the 928 Motorsports kit. IF it happens, I plan on running it at low boost (6PSI or so) along with the bypass valve that came with their kit that upgraded to higher boost (9+ PSI). Pressure on the backside of the impeller on sudden decel is what killed those blowers in stock form. They should have made EVERY kit with the bypass. This is why you can pick one up so cheap now. People don't realize just how easy they are to rebuild and then the also easy steps to keep them running a long time without issue.....
Sounds like fun. If you're swapping to another block I'd go with head studs and decent head gaskets. It shouldn't be needed but 6psi can magically turn into 9-12psi........;)
I may be swapping my 1.6 rockers for a set of 1.72s as well. They guy I know with them can't use them with the camshaft he wants to run (.595 lift with 1.6; .619 with the 1.7s). I'll check PTV with what I have and see...
Dang.....I wish I had a supercharger. LOL. Glad you kept the car.
Too bad these won't work: http://www2.cougarpartscatalog.com/gcvrs.html
Welp..... time to shoot the lock off the wallet....
-- New Milodon oil pump (High Volume/High Pressure --- With Melling you have to choose on or the other) and ARP pump shaft
-- Cometic Head Gasket set.
-- Engine gasket set
-- Head bolts
Already have a 7 quart pan and pickup.
Going with a new intake manifold as well. Edelbrock. The Trick Flow will be for sale.
Now I need to make a decision on lifters...... I don't want to reuse my current ones even though they are low miles.....
Sounds like a plan. Which Edelbrock intake are you going with? I'm guessing the Performer RPM II? It would probably work great for you. I've been very happy thus far with the Performer RPM I I'm running on my car. I haven't run it at the track yet but SOTP I notice no difference down low vs the GT40 I was running but it definitely pulls much better at high rpm. Passing power on the highway is much better than with the GT40.
As far as lifters I've heard good things about Morel lifters. I've been running Crane lifters without issue for years. I can say they are good as well.
Yeah, it's a II.... A buddy has one. The price was right. The price tag on the Morels is high. $900+ for a set...
Ouch that much? I'd just get a set from Comp or Crane and be done with it. The RPM II is pretty much equivalent to a Systemax so it should run well.
Just an update. The old block is STILL in the car, still running and still holding decent oil pressure.
Fun fact: An engine running too hot will screw with the oil and make it useless at high temps......
On a 50 degree day a while back I had the car running for about 20 minutes. The coolant temp on the driver side of the radiator would not go anywhere above 135 degrees. This was confirmed with a thermometer that was known good and accurate with the radiator cap off. For the heck of it, I decided to replace the thermostat with a Mr. Gasket 180 degree unit. I checked it before installing. Started opening @ 180 and was full open @ 184. Tested twice.
After swapping the old one out I tested THAT as well. It's also a 180 degree piece. It did not start to open until 200 degrees on the nose and never fully opened. It stopped at about 1/3 of the way in boiling water. I walked away for 15 minutes with the water boiling to see if it would open over time. Nope. Still at 1/3. Enough for some flow apparently, but not enough to remove the heat from the motor itself which would become stupid hot. I've taken the car on a few trips since with some WOT shenanigans. No signs of oil pressure issues. Temp readout on the digi dash is consistently reading low/1 bar. Confirmed the issue is the dash. I have a spare unit in better shape than the one original to the car. It is 100% functional. It's going in once it warms back up. Getting the other block all set up next month as well. At least I can drive it up till when I do the swap without worry now.
How hot was the car running? I've got a Stant Superstat 180* thermostat in my Thunderbird with a two row (2 1" tubes) aluminum radiator. The engine runs between 185*-195* in all weather conditions. Radiator outlet temps are usually around 30* or so lower than inlet temperatures. The only issue I've had is in cool weather (50*-60* ambient temperatures) the engine won't get much above 180* or so.
Since you're in no rush to swap engines is it 347 time now? ;)
I could not put my hand on the valve cover. Pulling the dipstick to check the oil revealed something akin to the same temperatures as molten lava. Seriously, never seen oil get that hot.
I can't hold my hand on the valve covers on either my Thunderbird or Mark VII after they have been run for awhile. They are at least 180* or so, you know engine temp. I make it a habit to not touch hot engines ;).
Assuming no oil cooler, hot day, A/C on, heavy load(or foot), highway speeds etc, oil temp will easily climb to 230* or higher...
I burned a blister on my finger by touching lower section(just above oil level) of dipstick when handle was cold... This was with my Lightning at a rest stop, ambient temp around 35F... Had been running 75-80 mph and it had the factory 4.10 gear...
And as for holding your hand on a 180* valve cover, Ill pay anyone that can legitimately demonstrate this feat for 10 seconds $50... You'll have to pay your own Dr bill if you try it...
You're not referring to me correct? I said I couldn't do it :hick:
My friend's 1990 Corvette has an oil temp gauge and that's always read a lot higher than the coolant temp. Definitely over 200. It used to confuse me, I'd ride in the car, look over at this plethora of gauges and for some reason bullseye on that one "Holy shiznit dude why's this running so hot!!???" :rollin:
Weird. I always thought oil temps should be close to the same as coolant.
Correct...
Back in the day I used to pull Horiz output tubes from Color TV that were around 350*F, had a heck of a callus on thumb and finger built up... Still that was for a couple seconds at most, wouldn't try it now on a bet...
I pulled one and set it down and some kid maybe 16 trying to impress his girlfriend grabbed it, went straight in the air... I yelled if it busts you owe me $8.50!!! He managed to juggle it around like the proverbial hot potato and set it back in place... His friends were about to split a gut, he didn't say a word...
Sitting in my driveway at idle for 5 minutes on a 50 degree day. The difference is readily apparent after the swap of the thermostat. It's still hot of course, but if I bump into it, no biggie. It's back to where I remembered it being before any issues....
More pressing issue right now is replacing the radio/GPS unit in the Dodge Nitro. Went aftermarket due to the stock ones being absolute garbage and overpriced. The original unit has been doing wonky things for about a year and research has shown ZERO parts diagrams. I'm of the opinion that a capacitor has blown on the PC board inside it. Gonna put the new one in Monday along with a wiring harness to retain the steering wheel controls. Shouldn't take me but 2 hours, but I'll set aside 6 or so just in case some unforeseen.
ive been watching this thread, I wanted to chime in a few times but I know you like to think things through for a while before you do a project.
just fyi,, many people get rod noise early on. I started getting all kinds of noise a 100k miles ago I guess at 190k... ive been running rotella 15-40 and that solved the noise problem. I also change my oil once and sometimes twice a month also.
my machine shop local to me said he prefers thin oil for better protection though,,, which confuses me. I tried to debate the hydraulic effect of thicker vs thinner oil but he says im wrong. ,, he's the expert so I digress.
all I know is that I have no noise now.
Yesterday was nice so I took the Cobra Jet out for a good hard run with several WOT pulls through the gears and noticed oil pressure was at 22 psi with idle around 900 RPM, has a 180* stat... I stopped by a friends and just let it run(battery is iffy), and of course I bla bla for 45 minutes or more while it ran... When I got in to leave pressure was almost 30psi or what's normal for the tired old 428... Difference??? Oil cooled while idling so pressure came back to what I usually see... When oil was cold pressure was over 60psi at same speed... The pan is currently filled with QS Defy 10W-40... This change is approaching three years(but less than 1K mi), I'll soon treat the old girl to a fresh dose of same...
Scott if clearances are over the max recommended, thicker oil will take up the slack so to speak and if it's stopping noise(s), you're doing the right thing... A fresh engine that's a bit on the tight side or even dead center of recommended clearance, should never really need more than a 0/5W-30...
Yup. It'll actually shear the oil. No good. I'm actually gonna try the Mobil 1 10-50 next time out. Should be OK.
My understanding is its all in the build
Build up a motor tight and run lighter oil and make more HP, spin faster, probably need a HV oil pump though
A motor with looser clearances will of course need heavier oil
I believe Nascar runs something like 0w20 or 5w20
Most new fords run 0w20 or 5w20.
It pretty much has to do with bearing clearances when the motor is built and operational temps. If you live in Florida, there isn't much reason to run a winter rated oil.
Actually it pretty much has to do with improving corporate CAFE numbers and why Ford back specked several models(actually most) to use 5W-20... They received three years back credit on their CAFE averages... All the US vehicles that have
exact foreign counterparts are recommended to use anything from 0/5W-20 to 20W-50... Some aren't recommend for anything less than 10W-30/40...
Still there aren't many engines that really need anything thicker than a quality 5W-30... At one time 5W-30 was only recommended for temps under 60*F but with advancement in VII(viscosity index improvers), these oils hold up quite well for 4-5K mi oil changes... Prior they would shear at higher temps leaving you with a 5W-10 or similar equivalent(which is fine in very cold weather)...
I've been running 10W30 in my Thunderbird since the engine was rebuilt 9 years ago. After the 500 mile break in on regular oil I've been running Mobile 1 without issue. I also run 10W30 in my Mark VII. My Focus and my wife's Mustang get 5W20, as that's what the manual calls for. Ford specified 10W30 for the 5.0 so that's what I run.
Mobil 1 5W-30 is thicker at 100*C than their 10W-30... Compare the cSt and you'll see what I'm referring to... There's enough difference that I won't touch their 10W-30, isn't much more than a 10W-20...
https://mobiloil.com/en/motor-oils/mobil-1/mobil-1
The viscosity rating at 100° C. is one of the first thing gs I look at.
Mobil 1 best all around oil is no doubt their 0W-40, has numerous certifications that most oils can't touch... Plus it has a good load of ZDDP and is a light 40, just barely out of 30W territory, far thinner than most 10W-40... If you wanted to cut it a bit, mix in a quart of their 5W-20 EP and you'll have a 30W that's on the upper end of scale... This is the oil I used in the supercharged Marauder...
The Mobil 1 5W-30 high mileage is another oil with extra zinc, SL rated so isn't reduced like SM & SN oils(have it in my '98 Grand Marquis)... Note the xxW-40 grades aren't effected by zinc reduction mandate, still most oils have been cut to approx same as the xW-20/30...
Comparing Mobil 1 to other 10W30s:
Valvoline Synpower: http://content.valvoline.com/pdf/synpower.pdf
Penzoil Platinum: http://www.pennzoil.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/04/Pennzoil-Platinum-10W-30-Full-Synthetic-Motor-Oil-SN-GF-5-en-TDS.pdf
Royal Purple: http://www.royalpurpleconsumer.com/wp-content/uploads/PS_API_MotorOIl.pdf
They are all pretty close. I doubt that running any of the other 3 over Mobil 1 would make a difference. The engine seems happy with 10W30 so I see no need to switch to something like 10W40.
glad you got the car out for a stretch tom,, I was gonna steal it soon If anymore dust collected.
None of those oils give me a fuzzy feeling, if I don't see at least a 11.0 cSt@100*C, I move on... Also HTHS@150*C is important(especially in a boosted engine), I kinda live with oils around the low 3.x cSt, but for racing really prefer something more in the 3.5-up range...
Looking at the differences between the 5w50 and 15w50, I don't see any reason why the 5w50 wouldn't work for me.....
https://mobiloil.com/en/motor-oils/mobil-1/mobil-1
Looking at the AMSoil 5w50 I might just give that a shot. Shop up the road keeps it in stock.
http://www.amsoil.com/lit/databulletins/g2880.pdf
Phosphorus is 772 ppm and zinc is 842 ppm as per Bob is the oil guy. Half of a 4oz. bottle of ZDDPlus should do the trick.....
I still don't know why you guys are running such thick oil. My stock rebuild 302 is happy as a pig in slop with synthetic 10W30. No noises, knocking, or chattering and good oil pressure.
Well I wouldn't go any thicker than necessary, assuming you can't stick your pinky between the rod bearings and crank the M1 5W-50 looks like it'd do the job... Plus has a good viscosity index number meaning it requires less viscosity index improvers to achieve the grade... In the real world I dunno how much if any difference that makes, may be just a feel good to know there's a better ratio of oil to VII...
In a engine that has roller lifters and rockers, I don't know of any reason extra zinc would be beneficial... There is still as much zinc in oils today as there were in oils up to early '60s, it was the Hi-Po engines with high spring pressures that forced the need for increase...
And it should, still a 10W-30(at least in synthetic) is going to be obsolete one of these days... Makes no sense to have a oil that's thicker cold when there are now better choices... Any oil you can buy is from 20 to maybe 50-70x thicker cold than necessary, there is no such thing as thin oil at below freezing...
I run 5W-30 in my newer stuff and probably will the 331... The old 428 no doubt likely has double the bearing clearance necessary, already has a HV pump to get the pressure I'd mentioned... Without the HV pump it probably would not idle 10 psi...
Well as long as synthetic 10W30 is available I'll be running it. When it's gone I guess it'll be time to switch to 5W30.
I should try thin oil and listen to the way it sounds
I can't remember the last time I had the luxury of running normal people oil
Scott how much oil does your engine use?? Any appreciable amount of leak???
Assuming it isn't swilling oil a 5/10W-40 should be fine... Most are going to be a bit thinner hot than the 15W-40(and far thinner cold), but still should run without issue...
Beauty of the 15W-40 is it's cheap and other than maybe causing some sluggish cranking at temps below 5*F it's a great choice in a high milage engine, especially if you're running lots of highway miles... Getting late in season now, but maybe next winter try some 5W-40 turbo or truck oil to see if you notice improved cold weather cranking... Of course there is always 0W-40 Mobil 1, probably the best all round oil on the shelf... Still it's a light 40 just slightly above 30 spec where most 15W-40 are probably nearer 50 weight when hot...
Speaking of 0W-40, Auto Zone was having a $2 quart clearance back in Dec and I picked up enough Pennzoil Platinum SRT(meets Chry Hemi specs), for probably two years... Both my Mercurys and the beater F-150 are going to see a steady diet of the stuff starting this month... AZ also had 10W-30 & 40 M1 on the same $2 close out, all but two quarts of that was gone...
Just for fun I may try this in my Thunderbird at it's next oil change:
https://mobiloil.com/en/motor-oils/mobil-1/mobil-1-high-mileage
The high milage 10W30 is thicker at 100°C than the regular 10W30 but not so thick as the 10W40 or 0W40. Not that the engine needs it but the high milage 10W30 might offer a bit more protection when I beat on the car at the track.
You guys just need to do what i do. Let it eat a quart or two a week then you won't care what oil you are running. I wait for it to start making sewing machine noises then dump two quarts in. More on paydays ;).
I'm convinced that the rear main seal leak I had when I first purchased the car all those years ago (EIGHTEEN!!!!) contributed to the undercarriage being completely rust free. The car never dripped on the ground and the air while moving was enough to make the oil go from the rear main seal to the undercarriage. When I finally fixed it, the bottom of the car looked as if I had applied rhino liner. Some of it it STILL there. I refuse to take it off and have told anyone else who has worked on the car to not touch it ass well. It's dried and cracking at this point. Only about 1/3 remains, but hey it did it's not so intended job in my opinion.
The shaging truck is killing me..... Gotta call the glass guy today. New windshield......
It looks better than the std 10W-30 but if I were going to use HM would be the 5W-30... It's thinner at 40*C(but still 7x too thick for optimum[my optimum is 11 to 13 @ 100c]) which would beneficial in a partially warmed engine on the drag strip... If I were only going to race my Bird, I'd use 5W-20 as oil temp is rarely over 160*... But cruising at 70 mph & full operating temp I'd be uncomfortable with it... If there was such a oil that was say 12 cSt from 0 to 150c, I'd be all over it... As would all the racers... Such oil may well exist for aerospace but probably $10,000 a quart...
The HM 5W30 and 10W30 are virtually identical at 100*C.
I need an oil temp gauge. That would be beneficial at the track. I've thought about running 10W40 but that stuff is too thick for my liking.