And if so what is your setup. I'm running that with a built 351w 373 ford 8.8 full posi and a a o d with a shift kit in it
Been awhile(looong while) but I ran 13.11@105 on a Trick Flow headed & cammed std bore 5.0... It ran better 1/8 mile times down at my track in NC, may have gone a 13.05 or so, defiantly could have run 12.9 with more converter stall... Went 12.23@112 spraying a 75 shot...
5.0, TW heads, Stage-1 cam, 65mm throttle body, Cobra intake, 76mm mass air, 24Lb inj, 1 5/8 BBK headers, full 2.5 exhaust, AOD with 2600 stall, Trans-Go shift kit, 3.73 rear gear...
New combo will incl 331 with E'brock Performer intake, 70mm TB, 30Lb inj, 3500 stall...
If it doesn't run at least a 12.7 I'll be pissed...
(http://amradio.freeiz.com/turbocoupe50/TC2005a.jpg)
(http://amradio.freeiz.com/turbocoupe50/1311.jpg)
Tom that's your white TC correct?
I see it has no moonroof...I'm assuming power windows. Power seats? Just one? A/C equipment in place?
Or just skip all the semantics, have you ever weighed it?
Tom's car is pretty heavy. I distinctly remember him referring to it as "fat girl", lol!
No time slip for my car, but more cam and stall than Tom with less weight to tote around. New stock 5.0 Coyote Mustangs get walked.
Come up to Atco. You'll likely run a 12.4.
No hole in roof, operating A/C, dual power seats, all other TC features in place and operational...
3760Lb with me(200) and 3/4 tank of gas, if level is below approx 1/2 tank it'll fall on it face on launch...
Our local tracks are at less than 100ft altitude(I think the 1/8 mile is like 30ft), if I can catch good air it'll run as good locally as anywhere...
(http://i1358.photobucket.com/albums/q765/xxAMxx/Cars/cobratc50_zpsi4lsukch.jpg)
Thanks for the info. I hope to run 11s eventually
Are you using any frame bracing like so frame connectors
Nope suspension is dead stock, right down to the original programmable shocks & struts...
Rears are set to firm and disconnected, then when racing I set the system to automatic which loosens up the front almost as if it has no shocks... At 80 mph or so front automatically switches to firm(also on hard braking or quick maneuvers)...
Mine is hefty as well. No moonroof but dual power seats, power recline, leather, power windows and locks, Electronic Climate Control, A/C, heavier LX/Turbo Coupe style door panels, extra sound deadening (LX). Tips the scale at 3562lbs with a full tank (like Tom's car anything less than 1/2 tank and it falls on it's face on launch). Race weight is 3710-3715 with me in the car.
With the mods in my sig the car has clicked off a 14.1@98 with a 2.2 60' on 225/55/16 Firestone Firehawk GT tires in air equivalent to about 2000ft (lowest track around here is 630ft above seal level). I should note that I manually shift the AOD in my car (epoxy mod) and thanks to the inaccurate stock tach I've be doing the 1-2 and 2-3 shift at about 4800rpm. I've got an Autometer tach and shift light combo now so upshifting at 5500rpm should hopefully improve my car's E.T.
(http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa33/thunderjet302/Thunderbird%20web/20150113_125625_zps37494262.jpg) (http://s198.photobucket.com/user/thunderjet302/media/Thunderbird%20web/20150113_125625_zps37494262.jpg.html)
Here's a altitude correction table...
http://www.greatlakesdragaway.com/correctionfactors.html
Of course barometric pressure and humidity are major factors, it's often Africa humid here so air can be lousy even though we're almost in the ocean...
Play around with shift points, mine was happiest around 5800, that 266 may like a little less though...
I have actually run a Great lakes Dragaway a few times. Very old school track but fun.
I use this to compensate for Barometric pressure and humidity: http://www.dragtimes.com/da-density-altitude-calculator.php
I'm going to try starting at 5300rpm and working my way up from there as far as shift points go. I just need to get to the track. The only days we've had nice weather have been days I'm working. I'm trying to go in April/May before the weather gets too warm and I'm just basically paying to legally speed for 1/4 mile :hick:.
Idk but mine is super heavy it's got all the options no sunroof I do have air shocks fiberglass cowl induction hood lighter rims and sparrow racing seats but with old power seat setup still in it. I should weigh it sometime
Unless it was totally stock with 351 & iron heads it isn't going to weigh over approx 3650Lb + driver...
Sooo lessee a 351 weighs approx 60Lb over a 302, if you have iron heads add another 45Lb vs alu on 302... We'll start at 3650Lb assuming iron heads...
Racing seats save maybe 20Lb each over factory buckets and prob another 15Lb over split bench(-55Lb = 3595)... Fiberglass hood another 25Lb or so(3570)... The EATC may weigh 5-10Lb more than manual heater(3580), removal of A/C components maybe 35Lb(all that stuff is aluminum)(3545), alu race wheels may save 10Lb each(3505 with iron heads)... With alu heads weight would be around 3465...
It's got iron heads on but wow thanks for the info
I take it you are mostly looking at V-8 setups for comparisons? Of course, mine would be apples to oranges, engine wise, but if you need any input on other stuff like suspension/chassis, I will help if I can.
:bowdown: My birds never made a pass and is currently experiencing what it's like to be on Jurassic parked in the garage.