hi there new to forum but owned my cougar for over 10 years and its never let me down......until now. from cold car starts and stalls instantly restarts with a bit of throttle and its purring again for about 2 mins on tick over,30 seconds if you keep the revs up.when reved up during this stage everthing is fine.then it will stall or try to stall rev it up and it sounds air rushing whiring sound keeps cutting out for a fraction of a second and spits when you let the throttle off.any help would be most welcome.
check for any stored computer error codes.
its a 1986 3.8 cfi not sure how to do it with a voltmeter as it has no engine check light.i have found the test connector.if the test connector has the long side at bottom what goes where?
its ok i think iv got it.jumper from top right pin to the single connector. voltmeter or bulb second from left to battery +
ok had a break in the weather.koer code 34 egr valve pressure transducer/postion sensor sonic voltage above closed limit do i need to replace or clean and where is it?
I know on my old 83 5.0, the egr valve got stuck open with a big chunk of carbon. Just take the valve off, clean it, make sure it moves in and out freely. You might get lucky and find something holding it open.
cleaned and refitted still got code 34
When you had it off, did it move freely? You are sure it's seated when it's closed?
yes it has a free action and responds to vacum and seals up
Code 34
Key on engine off, key on engine running, continuous memory.
Insufficient egr flow/excessive exhaust back pressure; or evp voltage above closed limit (sonic) pfe sensor voltage high or out of range.
If the sensor is the round one with small shaft the fits into EGR valve it's probably bad, was a common issue 20 years ago, doubt it's improved with age... Do be sure the O ring is sealed...
ok checked the evp with avo all was ok but vref was 3.76 volts would this give code 34 if so how can i fix it?
just checked the evp and got 1.2 volts but whe removed from the egr valve 0.26 volts i have worked out the rod is pushed in about 5mm when fitted egr valve is this right?
Looks like it should be below 0.67V. Either your valve isn't seated, or your EVP is bad.
EVP Sensor Info (http://"https://web.archive.org/web/20100117001516/http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=35")
Code 34 (http://"https://web.archive.org/web/20100117002303/http://fordfuelinjection.com/index.php?p=46")
Sonic EGR Info (http://"http://www.tomco-inc.com/Tech_Tips/ttt31.pdf")
The sonic EGR actually operates by creating sonic (M=1) or supersonic (M>1) flow at the EGR pintle, thus allowing constant flow through the EGR nozzle regardless of back pressure. (Same idea used in rocket motors) It allows you to reasonably calculate EGR flow without have pressure sensors - aka DPFE (http://"http://rockledge.home.comcast.net/~rockledge/RangerPictureGallery/FordEGRSystem.htm")
going to get both just to be sure.also keep getting code 83 high speed electro drive fan circuit failure on koeo the code table print out i have was for later models and said sc only which i took as super charged only.just got a chiltons manual much better than the old haynes manaul that i have but no info on this.
KOEO code 83---------EGR control solenoid resistance--out of specs
Both control and vent solenoids should be between 30 and 70 OHMS.
KOEO code 83..EGR control solenoid resistance out of specs.
Both EGR control and vent solenoids should measure between 30 and 70 OHMS.
can you tell me where this is so i can check it
This picture is an 84 3.8L. The 86 EVTM shows them in a different order but the wire colors are the same.
The EGR control will have the yellow wire and the EGR vent will have the green wire. The red wires are keyed 12v power.
The solenoids are under the radiator expansion tank.
ok thats great will look at it in the morning as its 0120am here and its bed time.
If the EGR valve was stuck open you would get a KOEO 3x ( I think 31) code.
The KOER test tries to open the valve and it fails, giving the 34 code.
I don't think the EGR problem is causing the engine stalling.
Can you pinpoint the air rushing noise you hear? Is it pulsing or a steady noise? You may have a large vacuum leak.
just got the avo out on the solenoids vent 40 ohms,control showed nothing just dead.is code 34 generated by this fault as there will be no vacum to open the egr?.also the air rushing sound is from the viscous fan. it comes and goes.
It sounds like your fan is over-reving. Fan clutch problem.
The engine idle is controlled by the ISC (idle speed control) motor.
You need to check if the ISC is working.
Warm the car up until it will idle. Remove the air cleaner. Check that the throttle linkage pad is resting on the ISC motor plunger.
Watch the plunger to see if it ever moves.
Turn the engine off. Put the ignition in run with out starting (KOEO)
Notice where the ISC plunger is. Install the self test (KOEO) jumper.
The plunger should move to the max retracted position.
The following diagram shows the adjustment procedure for the ISC motor. First you need to determine if the EEC can move the plunger.
ok thanks for that but it works fine had code 12 to start with on koer as it was out of adjustment.found the parts i need will take about 10 days to get here.let you know how i got on.
ok new parts fitted both test show pass but still running sick..what next?
ok new parts fitted but still running bad as before koeo pass.koer showed 41&91 on second run 42&92 running lean then rich where do i look now?
just done three more now showing 11 pass but still running bad
Check the timing and the fuel pressure.
ing timing ok. i dont have the tool (t80l-9974-a) to do a test is there a aftermarket kit i can use may be able to get one local or do you know the size thread for the test valve? also list any other things i should look at as the time difference is a real pain by time you guys are on its gone midnight here.
How old are your O2 sensors?
Fuel pressure gauges are available in auto parts stores in the US, don't know about UK.
I think the fuel pressure valve is a standard Schrader valve. See if a valve cap from a tire will fit.
That part number you listed looks like it is from the Ford Shop Manuals. Do you have the shop manuals?
I suggest you get a compression tester as well if you don't have one and check the compression.
Does the exhaust smoke? If so what color?
Have you checked or replaced any ignition parts? Cap, rotor, wires or plugs.
What do the plugs look like? Tan is good. White is bad. Black is bad. Oil soaked is bad.
Does spiting when you let off the throttle mean it is backfiring? If so is it through the exhaust or the CFI.
Did you adjust the timing? If so, how far off was it? Did you disconnect the SPOUT wire when you checked timing?
Have you ever replaced the fuel filter?
i only got codes for 02 sensors when the engine stalled before the test finish.pass codes when it finished.new cap,rotor,wires and plugs.fuel filter i changed first as it does feel like its hunting for fuel.on that note after 12hours standing opened the schrader valve got a dribble of fuel turned ingnition on got a splurt .with engine runnnig got a stream of fuel was expecting high pressure blast does this sound right?.the backfire is in the exhaust more of a putt or spit.timming was spot on and schrader is the same as tire valve cap.plugs where black.all the fuel pressure testers say for modern schradar valve but not what size it is.
Are these parts you replaced before you started this thread? If so, give us a summary of everything you have you have done and any changes to the symptoms.
That's good. Hard to gauge the pressure like that.
all parts where fitted after problem started no change to symptoms.hard to start keeps cutting out engine sounds like its running on compressed air no sound of combustion going on.
Two other things that came to mind-
1) If it's a CFI, can you see the injector spray when you turn the key forward (you'll need somebody to turn the key while you look)? I wonder if you have a defective or plugged-up injector, or a bad fuel pressure regulator.
2) Did the car burn oil? I ask because that can plug up the catalytic converter. The converter can also break apart inside and restrict the exhaust. You could probably test this by disconnecting the exhaust from the exhaust manifold, or pulling the 02 sensor and leaving the hole open.
Normally restricted exhaust doesn't make it hard to start though. I only wonder about that because of the "wooshing" noise you describe, and the original EGR and "excessive backpressure" codes you had initially. It's worth a look if you run out of easy things to try.
funny i just was reading up about blocked cats as you say i have time to look at other things while i wait for my fuel pressure tester just looked at the coil was within spec right at the bottom primary 0.3 secondary 8.0 not sure if its good or not.the backfire has bin there for a long time before the bad running started and its getting really bad now very hard to start will stall if no gas also blowing lots of soot out of the exhaust no way can i drive it like this.
ok just checked the injectors fine spray with big burst as it tries to stall.is there a volt meter test to check injectors as i have no info on this other than replace.
If they are spraying good and hard, and you are getting black smoke (too much fuel), I would venture to say your pressure regulator might be bad.
How many miles/kilometers are on the clock? If it is high I would almost suspect a timing chain that has started to stretch and has finally produced enough slack that its like being almost a tooth off on the distributor. Pretty easy to check if you can get a wrench on the crank pulley center bolt and can roll the motor clockwise and counter clockwise. You need to be able to watch the rotor in the distributor move while you turn the crank bolt or have someone else watching it. Turn the crank bolt one direction until the distributor rotor moves then stop and make a mark on the harmonic damper at the timing indicator. Now rotate the crank bolt the opposite direction and when the distributor rotor starts to move stop turning the crank and mark the harmonic damper at the timing indicator. This will give you the number of degrees of slack the timing chain has in it. Ideally I believe it should be less than 5 degrees of slack but from what I have read and experienced the motor will run with up to 15 degrees of slack in the chain albeit not so well.
Hopefully it is something easy like what you are currently diagnosing but replacing a timing chain is pretty straight forward. The only reason I am suggesting this is the backfiring issue coupled with the idling issues. When it runs does it have good power or is it sluggish?
Darren
it has 146000 on the clock when i first got it under gas never responded as well as i think it should its hard to keep up with the traffic will check for slack in the chain when i get home from work.
just checked for slack in the timing chain got 10-11 degrees slack will change it next month when i got time.removed o2 sensors no change so cats are not blocked.fuel pressure first test was ok second test i let the engine run for a few mins and the pressure slowly dropped away so fuel pump or regulator?.also is there a de-cat exhaust section available as i can have up to 3.5%co on test thats if it will below that amount.
ok just changed the pressure regulator and no change will now have to change the pump .can someone leave details on how to put a feed to the pump so i can drain the tank out.will have to clean it out as when i changed the fuel filter it was full rusty and fine silver particles.
my car is getting a EGR valve replacement now, it was having exactly the same symptoms
Still running poorly with no KOEO/KOER codes?
still no codes if you can help please leave on stiil sounds sick 3.8cfi. thanks.