Just posting this up to see what kind of responses I get pertaining to performance oils
Now I'm a firm believer in that an oil alone will not "add" or improve any type of performance
I usually run Mobil 1 or Pennzoil platinum and Wix filters and it's always served me well
Anyways last time I changed my oil I went with some 10w-30 royal purple, for $1 a quart I couldn't pass it up lol
Now obviously turbo coupes come with an overboost buzzer but prior to me doing the oil change, I've never heard it go off in my car. I've never really pushed it past 17psi.
Shortly after changing my oil with royal purple the overboost buzzer comes alive when putting the right pedal down and I was boosting about 2-3 psi higher than normal
It came on so often under high boost that I had to turn it down via the boost valve and it's still coming on on occasion, it's pushing about 18psi and performance is honestly better than ever.
So what's going on here, is royal purple really that good?
My next oil change I'll be going back to Mobil 1 or Pennzoil platinum since I still have a couple 5-qt jugs laying around to see if there was really a difference or its just a fluke.
Lots of people swear by it. Obviously something changed in your engine, and it's simply sheer coincidence, or RP actually lives up to the hype..lol
I put it in my 8.8 that is now in my Mustang...but if my overboost buzzer goes off..well...I'm going to be scratching my head as my car is N/A, LOL.
Normally I wouldn't have bought RP, but it was on sale when I getting supplies for my rear swap, so why not.
Update this thread when you go back to your normal oil and see if it still does the same thing. :)
I believe some oils are better then others. The real question is how are they better,why would it be better, and will it benefit my motor more then another couple hundred $$$'s a year.
My 300+k mile motor probably wouldn't notice any difference. I don't even change my oil anyways. I can't wait for a reason to pull the pan or something to see how much sludge there is.
I ran RP for a couple of years. I made the switch to Joe Gibbs Synthetic about 4 years ago. I use the RP filters still. I run the shorter style filter for the TC's. It's been a good combo for me.
Well I'm 99.99% in doubt the Royal Purple changed boost level by 2-3 psi, only way to have any idea is carefully note boost at given RPMs, then immediately change oil and recheck again... Otherwise it's a guessing game at best...
Unless a boost in zinc is necessary for a flat tappet or slider(2.3) cam, I'm mostly of the opinion oil is oil... No the high $$ boutique oils will not harm your engine but are they really necessary in a NA street engine?? I don't think so...
When I had the Supercharged Marauder I used Mobil 1 0W-40 European Formula... That oil has 1100 PPM zinc which is more than enough for any roller cammed engine... Main thing with a Rootes type blower is be careful at lower RPMs, the almost instant boost can push the rod bearings through the hydrodynamic wedge of oil on crank pins... At higher RPMs the spinning oil will keep the metal from contacting...
I would think that changing to a different brand oil FILTER will change OIL PRESSURE (I saw a 3 PSI increase when I swapped a Mobil 1 in place of a Fram), but that one instance I have experience with is not enough to consider that conclusive IMO. I'm gonna try the AMSoil filter next
No doubt proves the M1 flows better, but does that mean the filtration is better? Could be the difference in panning for gold using chicken wire vs window screen... Then could be better quality media(or more of) in the M1 creates less resistance to flow...
I've had ADBV(anti drain back valve)issues with Purolater and M1 filters causing no oil pressure on cold start, never had this problem with a Motorcraft... A std Motorcraft recently went 11,030 mi on my '07 Grand Marquis, using M1 5W-30 Extended Performance... M1 claims it's good for 15K mi, I believe it, be nice if I could feel same about their filter...
I'll just throw this out there. Lots of data here.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com
Been there plenty of times. Reason why I'm gonna try the AMSoil filter.
My neighbor swore by RP. He used it on his pickup that he put a lot of miles on in the oil field. He would change the oil every 15K miles but change the filter between oil changes at 7,500 miles.
I run Mobil 1 synthetic with a Mobil 1 filter on the GM SUV and change the oil when the onboard computer says I have about 5% oil life left. Right at 160K miles on it and zero issues.
T-Bird and Coupe both run Brad Penn oil and Motorcraft filters. This is what my engine builder and machinist both recommended so that's what I run.
Darren
Lots of good stuff here guys and I've definitely read up on Bobistheoilguy and the amount of information they have is ridiculous
By the way to clear things up, before any of this I already had a roller cam installed and I have ran nothing but Wix filters no matter what oil is in the engine
I prefer Wix since the filters are longer than any other filters meant to fit a turbo coupe, which means more filter area, not quite as long as a FL1A though. I guarantee if it was even 1-2mm longer I wouldn't be able to get it on since it comes so close to the steering shaft. I'm definitely considering removing the oil cooler and running the larger filters.
Anyways absolutely no changes were made at all when I noticed the difference after changing the oil and replacing the filter.
I run the TC style filters as I've heard on average there is less pressure drop across them. My oil changes are frequent enough to where the filter life is moot. On the Mustang I run Mobil 1 5w20 with a Motorcraft filter. My driving is so limited on that car now with the past 2 winters being so bad I've gone 6 months between changes. One of the mileage intervals was 136 miles...
I'm curious as to the zinc and phosphorous contents in the Brad Penn and the Pennzoil Platinum Ultra.
Their is power in filters and oil. With all the testing that a buddy and I have done over the years on the dyno and the track, we have found horsepower. The wix filters is a good one, I see them on a lot of NMRA cars. Myself and several other racers use the System 1 filter, it is filter with a removable screen cartage for cleaning( I posted a pic of my engine in the show your engine forum a few years ago if anyone wants to see the filter). I have also done back to back passes with only changing the oil and have picked up anywhere from .08 to a full tenth of a second in the quarter. When I am running the normal brackets I use Mobil 1 0W20. When I want the extra I put in LAT Racing Oil. I used to use the Royal Purple, but I have found that the LAT lasts longer and gave me more power.
This is the info on the Brad Penn
http://www.penngrade1.com/Zinc.aspx
I ran the breakin oil on my 331 in the Coupe for about 2,500 miles with only changing the filter after the initial startup and warm up. The oil came out Brad Penn green and I was kicking myself in the ass for not leaving it in there longer.
Darren
I sure wish I'd have been standing there, would have happy poured it in either of my Grand Marquis and run it a year or more...
Used oil buttstuffysis have proved time is not a issue with a oil's longevity, what stresses oil is short tripping where it never gets to operating temp, thus collects fuel dilution & moisture... The time requirement by mfgrs for warranty is do to the mind set that if only a few hundred miles have been accumulated in six months, most of that was likely due to Joe Six Pack riding ½ mile up to the 7-11 every evening for his refreshments & Lottery tickets... As long as most of the time your engine reaches full operating for 15-20min, a occasional short trip is harmless... I change my stuff on a mileage only interval, sometimes going a year & half or more...
For amount of zinc check out the mfgr's PDS, most of the time it will be listed... But if the
oil is a xW-20/30 and has a SM or SN API rating, you can bet it's been reduced... Most xW-40 is also reduced but is not a absolute requirement for the heavier grade... Generally the high mileage oils have the earlier API SL rating so these oils have pre-reduction levels of Zinc...
I would have gladly let you have it ;)
It's a peace of mind thing with me. Silly and unnecessary? Yes, but it keeps me happy.
I drained the tranny fluid @ 12000 miles and replaced it as well. Looked brand spanking new. I've often wondered just how much of a contributing factor humidity and extreme temperatures are on fluid life and contaminants; not just while operating, but while parked as well. The Mustang is a garage queen. In all my time in my house the garage has never gotten below 45 degrees. Even with the temperature hovering around zero those few days back. In winters where the roads weren't salted to death and I took the car out, I always warmed it up for a few minutes with the garage door just slightly open so as to not have CO2 gas accumulate.
Currently the Joe Gibbs HR3 I run in the Cat has around 1250 PPM zinc. The old formula was over 1400..... I still have a few bottles of that laying around. I've let that stuff go for a year. I think after it warms up after this winter I'm gonna change it though. A few months early, but I drove the hell out of her this past summer after finally getting the entire cooling system squared away.
I'm sick of having the fuel pressure jacked up to the moon to feed the 24's I have too. 30's are going in. They'll be a good fit at stock pressure.