Hey everyone, I can't tell you all how much i've gained from browsing this site, I finally decided to make an account and I have a question that I have not seen answered on this site yet. I have an 86' TC all the bells and whistles. Just put in a new alternator, and called AAA to get a jump because my battery was ridiculously dead. It got juice and the alternator was spinning but there was an alarm system like buzzing and once the key went from the start to run position it died. granted there was still power in the car and every time i put the key from its idle position to run it makes a horrible buzzing sound and wont stay running. SO........everything works on the car I have the keyless code and I tried a number of things from punching the code, locking and unlocking the door etc. etc. I have no idea what the problem is but prior to me installing the alternator I never had this issue. I would hear the buzzing from time to time when going to start the car but it would go away simply by removing the key and trying again. I'm real confused and am thinking that it must have something to do with the new alternator or something like that. Does anyone know how to reset the system or where the issue may lie? I have all the factory service manuals blah blah blah, but I haven't been able to find what Im looking for. I'm not even 100% sure that the buzzing is an anti theft system feature. I'm so frustrated because in the meantime the car wont even let me roll the windows up. uhgggg
I have a feeling it's the ignition switch. Not the key lock part, but the electronic switch inside the steering column shroud. These are available at the parts store and are pr0ne to failure (sometimes can cause a fire). I would replace that first. I think they are around $20, and it would at least be one less thing to rule out.
I've never heard one of the factory anti-theft systems, but I bet you are just hearing the normal buzzer that sounds if you turn the key backwards just enough to stall the engine. That's what makes me think it's the ignition switch.
x2 on the switch.
Had one going out that resulted in the charging system quitting intermittently. Dealt with it for a while by jiggling the keys anytime the speedo seemed a bit dim, but the jiggle trick quit working one night and I had the pleasure of watching my battery die as I bolted toward my house - timing the stoplights, avoiding the brakes, cluster fully dimmed, ignoring my blinkers, anything I could think to conserve battery. Didn't quite make it, but got close enough to get a backup bat in the bird before rush hour - and more importantly before any LEOs noticed a rusty Thunderbird parked caddy-whompus across a downtown sidewalk.
Like CoogarXR said, the part is super cheap and it's easy/quick to put in to boot. It's really not a part you have to feel bad about throwing at it. If the switch has never been replaced, its days on this mortal coil are likely quite numbered anyway. Oxidation's a bitch.
A heads up in case you don't have any- you'll need a torx driver (at least I did for my 88). IIRC, the switch's retaining screws are T20.
Good luck!
Cool thanks guys what is the part called??
If you go to Advance Auto Parts website, put in your year, make, model, and type "ignition switch" in the search it shows up. On their site its $19.99. It's probably the same for AutoZone or whatever your local place is.
I got the part and am looking at it right now but it has security bolts which means the heads are snapped off how do I remove them and what do I replace them with? The switch was definately bad thanks fellas
The factory ignition switch bolts require a tamperproof torx bit to remove. They are only a few bucks at the parts store. Alternatively, some people have been successful in cutting a slot in the bolt head with a dremmell and then using a flathead to remove the bolt.
There is litterly no head to the bolts on some cars on the ignition switch.
Id try dremeling a slot in, then try to tap the slot with a punch and chisel, or really sturdy screw driver.
thanks every one this fixed the problem, I used a dremel and a flathead to get the screws out and all the electrical issues went away with a new ignition switch. A sure sign that the ignition switch is broken(for anyone stumbling across this thread in the future) is that when the key is in the ignition there is no click as you move from each position(ie. lock to run or lock to acc.) it just moves freely. After putting the new switch in there is a definitive "click" for each position. Thanks for the help guys I love this site.
Awesome. Glad it worked for you. Our cars are pretty cheap and easy to work on, that's one reason I keep owning them, lol.
Good deal man. Throw up some pictures of your car and stick around.
I know! all the parts are ridiculously cheap and easy to find. i have some issues with the parts databases at some auto stores but other than that.....
ill throw some pics up after i get it painted ;)
take the old ign sw apart and see how it works,,
you will see the problem inside.
also take note of the two blades that accept the yellow conductor... and the color of the surrounding plastic.
you are not done until you examine the chassis wiring harness connector itself. if that part is discolored and such , you may have high resistance on that contact point.
you can extract the yellow wiring from the connector with a tiny wire to move the holding tab, sand paper the metal female terminal,, perhaps bend its pig tail tabs around more then re-insert to insure it has a good friction contact.
just adding this....... a bit late but something else for you to verify and have a good feeling the full circuit is making proper contact.