So I was reinstalling my 4r70w after jmod, with a new PI converter. The transmission mated up well, and the bolts were able to be threaded in most of the way by hand, including the top two (with intake removed). They were snugged with a ratchet. Going to torque the top two first to 50ft/lbs, there was little resistance until reaching the torque number. One of the top was torqued. On the second top bolt, the entire bellhousing snapped! I have no idea why.
The TC was inserted and I felt two separate steps of it going in before bottoming out. This TC has no studs - it came with bolts to put through the flywheel.
Anyone have any idea what the hell happened?! Should I find someone to weld the thing back together, or try to find another transmission? Mine is original, with only about 25k miles since it came new on a 2003 Mustang.
Looking at the side of the bellhousing, the TC's...shaft thing sticks out just slightly from the bellhousing. I don't know how this is supposed to contact the crank or why, but it was a bit snug on removal, unlike the 12" unit that was stock (that one came right out). Lightly pressing with a prybar separated them though.
Sucks! I was just about to finish buttoning it up - get the new exhaust on and drive!
So I learned proper terminology - the "shaft thing" I mentioned earlier was the torque converter's pilot hub. Anyway, that thing was only partially was engaged in the crank. I didn't know where my spray greases were, so I smeared some engine oil on the pilot hub during installation. It wasn't close to bottoming out in the crank. I will go back and caliper this thing's outside diameter, but I would assume this wasn't the cause - especially since I had the thing already seated on all 6 bolts before I started torqueing! The inspection cover plate had no gaps on any side. Even the bolt holes for flexplate to converter were aligned beforehand to ease getting them installed. After putting the bottom 4 bolts in to keep the thing together, the top two threaded in by hand from the engine bay, until they couldn't go anymore.
Took my time with getting this thing installed - checking everything! This is probably the 5th time I've put an AOD or 4r70w up in this car with no issues previously...
That loud snap sound was terrifying, and a HUGE letdown...I really don't know what went wrong.
The transmission was also on the jack the entire time, so one or two bolts shouldn't have had weird tension/stresses during installation.
Found one local welder that is mobile, and would come to my garage to repair this for under $200. I'm guessing that a proper weld would be stronger than the casting itself? Perhaps the ideal solution?
I still would like to know what the hell happened. I can probably get a third set of eyes over here during installation to look it over as the two parts slide together (jrad). After all, mating them up only takes a couple minutes with a transmission jack!
Dang, I bet that did suck. I hate being almost done and having mechanical tragedies.
I wish I had something helpful to say, but I don't. I just didn't want you to think nobody was listening, lol.
I have a PI Stallion (AOD though). I don't remember if the pilot hub stuck out that much or not. I don't think it stuck out past the front of the bell housing. It was put in 4 years ago so my memory is a bit fuzzy.
It doesn't seat any more than that. I know that is one of the things you need to check a dozen times to make sure it is in all the way - converter needs to pop in a couple times as you spin it. I think the first time I did an AOD, I didn't have it in all the way, and the bellhousing wouldn't slide onto the dowels/factory TC studs won't go through flywheel holes. Basically push in, spin, and wiggle, until the thing seats completely - normally two levels of "clunk" before it's completely seated. Even then, push more and wiggle to make sure it's in all the way. Not a difficult concept!
I will be putting the factory one in today to see how it sits. I need to drain more fluid from that before mockups though - it keeps coming out!
Also, I should mention that NOTHING was in between the block and bellhousing - all wires were tied up out of the way. I have the transmission wiring coming down from the firewall. The only things I had to watch when lifting was the linkage, one wire, one connector that comes out and goes back into the vehicle (?), and just mating up the two parts WITH a helper. Not much can go wrong, especially with no TC studs to worry about!
I've run this by a few people and no one can give me a satisfactory answer. Everything I'm hearing to check, I've already checked many times during installation. We were at it for well over an hour, mating them up, and I kept checking all sides and transmission angles to make sure the thing slid on perfectly. I'm flabbergasted.
Stock 12" unit:
Output shaft length: 2.1in
Pilot Hub length: 0.73in
Pilot Hub diameter: 1.378in
Pilot Hub to Output Shaft length: 7 9/16in
PI Converter:
Output shaft length 2.55in
Pilot Hub length: 0.72in
Pilot Hub diameter: 1.377in
Pilot Hub to Output Shaft length: 7 11/16in
I don't have a way of measuring the thickness of the impeller and cover. The PI one is thinner, and has a longer output shaft.
Basically, the PI converter is 1/8" deeper than the stock unit, making it stick out about 1/8" of an inch. While I didn't have a problem with what seemed to be perfect mating between the bellhousing and engine, this 1/8" thickness difference has me a bit concerned. The stock converter does not stick out past the bellhousing. Both were seated the same way, with a lot of pressure and wiggling. Perhaps just a fraction of this 1/8" during torquing is what caused the crack - if it went in even another 3/32 of an inch, but that last 1/32" put stress on the housing, the thing could snap. Everything would appear mated up near perfectly, but not quite. Cast aluminum doesn't bend like steel likely could.
What is the difference for converters between AOD and AOD-E/4R70W? I'm curious if they sent me the wrong one? The paperwork references 4r70w though, including how to seat the converter into the transmission. PI's paperwork says I should have 1.030" +/0 0.050" of clearance between bellhousing and "converter pads"/bolt hole surface. No amount of wiggling and pressure will put the converter in any further to get it that close - I can't get clearance more than 0.90". Right there is 1/8" away from "1.030 inches". There is like a 1/3" difference between the second "set" feeling/pop in, and reaching 0.90" of clearance, so it seems to have slid into a 3rd section. I've been pulling it out and reinstalling quite a few times to see if I made any mistake, trying to find how to get it to go in any further. The TC came with plenty of lube on the output shaft, so I'm not having friction issues.
I would THINK that it's not seating all the way with these numbers, but no amount of force will pop it in further. I haven't gone to the extreme and tried a hammer or anything - it should slide in all the way by hand.
I know nothing about it, just throwing it out there. Being that tranny came out of a 03 mustang, is there any possibility of the crank area being different on the 03 Stang that would accept that additional shaft sticking out????
I really have no idea just thinking out loud for you, that kind of disappointment really sucks. Hope it is fixed quickly.
I have no idea - it shouldn't be. I've peaked at 4r70w threads for probably close to 10 years, both before, during, and after my install. I never saw such a problem. I assume converters with a cut pilot hub are done specifically for tolerance issues. In our cars it shouldn't matter though? After bolting everything up, the converter should pull out of the transmission slightly in order to bolt it to the flywheel, and connect the pilot hub. I didn't spin the crank to see if they were already contacting that much - a mistake on my part.
I think I simply need to get the bellhousing fixed, using dye to see how far the crack actually went, then try again while verifying contact with the crank. Also pick up some more lithium grease and use that for lubrication of both the dowels and hub, instead of motor oil.
I would call PI. Just to verify that you got the proper converter.
Do you have their number? It isn't online, and the number I have on the invoice from years ago is not in service...
When I was last talking with them by e-mail last year, they didn't include any phone number then either.
Leaving to pick up a 3.8 bare block from a machine shop, so that the thing can be welded together correctly.
I'll check my paperwork when I get home to se if I can find it.
Have a block, with crank still in. I should be able to mockup and see exactly what is going on. My machinist was talking about worrying about a few things:
- What in the transmission got excessive pressure put on it? Pump? With enough force to crack the bellhousing, are there damaged parts internally? If the converter wasn't in all the way, what might break? What if it was in all the way, but the extra 1/8" pushed on whatever ishiznitting first? What would get damaged?
- Welding - the tolerances may be too messed up after welding the thing back together. There may be excessive side load after the casting is repaired. Even bolted together to the engine block, the shaft tolerances may be screwed up too much for reliable usage. I'm not sure how accurate Ford's castings are, but a valid concern.
Anyone's thoughts? Preferably someone that knows the inner workings of these transmissions? Sounds like a pump replacement should be done.
The torque converter's output shaft is fine. I saw some pictures of people mangling them up - completely warping the output shaft out of round.
I am 99.9% sure that the hub of the TC should not stick out past the bell housing. Using a straight edge it should be just inside the bell housing.
If it had just broken out one mounting bolt location I would be tempted to have it welded with your plan of bolting it up to a block. That crack all the way across would have me concerned.
I'm wondering if you wouldn't be better off just transferring the guts to a new case.
Ford converters are very tough to get all the way in. You have to use a straight edge to make sure it does not stick out. just wondering why did you torque them down to 50 lbs ?? Way to tight just saying
What happened is either the converter was not all the way in and Fords normally have 3 steps to bottom in the pump. Or you did not have the Tranny all the way flush with the block. If the bell face is not flush with the block never draw it in with the bolts. And always spin the converter as you pull the tranny closer to the block. Or measure the depth of the converter before wrenchig it home. That is what cracked it. It was pen 15ed. Also was it all the way on the dowels?? And was the dowels cleaned and the holes in the tranny cleaned out to get the dowel holes up to specks. I alwayshiznit those dowel holes with a rat tail file and measure them for fit. If they are tight when removing the tranny they absolutely need to be addressed and fitter looser. I would have the tranny redone with a new case.
Note normally always snug up the bolts near the dowels first. Never the top ones as they are to far away from the dowels. That is most likely what cracked the unit. And always snug the bell bolts down evenly. And slowly alternating them around by little incroments. Clearly the unit was pen 15ed and not against the block. Sorry that sucks.
Yeah, I can't get the thing flush. After 2 stops, the converter is around 0.5" from bellhousing to bolt hole surface. I can spin and slide it in another ~0.4" at this point, which should be the pump engagement - 0.9" total. Converter spec sheet says it should be 1.030". Stock converter goes in the same 2-stops, but the third 0.4" allows it to slide in far enough for the hub to sit flush with the bellhousing. Basically, both converters go in the same way/same amount, but the PI one is sticking out 1/8", which is also the difference between output shaft tip to hub tip. Any idea about this Tom? I assume it still shouldn't be a problem, since the pilot hub to impeller is the same distance - it will bolt up to the flexplate and have the same crank engagement area as the stock unit. There would just be 1/8" more engagement on the transmission side, which it SHOULD have clearance for.
I don't have a valid number yet to reach Precision Industries.
I torqued to 50ft/lbs after doing some googling, and finding most people recommending the 45-55ft/lb range. Some oddballs were talking of quite higher numbers. Anyway, the bottom four were 3/8" racket-tightened first, without an issue. The top also appeared flush from the engine bay, with upper intake removed. That is what throws me off. Small tolerances are small tolerances though - I assume it was just slightly off. Dowels and hub were lubed with the only thinner oil I had on hand - engine oil. I have another can of lithium grease at home now.
This entire ordeal also brings up a good topic from years past. I figured my old converter was bad - in gear at low load, the TCS would command lockup, but it acted like it kept jumping in and out of lockup. My fix was a small line-pressure increase at low TPS values. I could have been driving with a damaged pump this entire time. I'm going to be pulling the pump and inspecting it, and replace any bad parts.
As far as the crack - I think the bellhousing still has a chance, if supported/wedged together well during welding. I'm going to try it. If I haul the transmission and engine block down to the guy's shop, it is a $55 repair attempt. Best case, it works. Worse case, I'm spending $400 on a used transmission to likely swap parts between. I have no idea what to do past the valve body or front pump though. I assume looking up a service manual, and spending a days' worth of time, would be sufficient.
I woul;d try the converter on the engine and flex plate without the tranny. Another words try is on the engine and flex plate first. Then do some measuring and math. that converter was to far out. Why is something you have to investigate. But if they sent you a defective or wrong converter they will have to settle up with you for a new case. Good luck That sucke. That iswhy i always go with caution with aftermarket stuff.
I didn't realize that the entire planetary gear assembly is pretty straight-forward. After looking into it for a couple hours, I now think I could rebuild one of these reasonably easily. The intro videos on youtube from "psygn0sis" are quite revealing. Going to see what happens with the welding, but rebuilding a core transmission isn't so scary now that I see that these really aren't too complicated. More complicated than a manual transmission, but "easier" than an engine - don't need to measure everything.
I double checked my stuff from PI. I don't have a phone number from them. Nuts.
I agree something is seriously wrong.
It's fine. After the thing is welded together, I will bolt it up on my new spare engine block w/crank, and see exactly what it looks like. I will pull the flywheel and cover from the engine in the car to make the thicknesses the same. Won't know more until this weekend.
Is this the company you bought your torque converter from?
http://www.converter.com/
Darren
Wait - I just noticed they put their number at the very top of the page - who could miss that?! I was looking under "contact", past e-mails, and their social media!
Anyway, yes. Precision Industries.
I never even bothered to look at their website since you mentioned you couldn't find their number on it. There it is plain as day :mullet:.
It was a shoot as I thought with the phone number that big and plain as day it had to be another company. Hopefully they can work through it with you and figure this out. I had a vibration with my old motor trans combo for years and never could figure it out. Tried shimming, offset bushings, you name it and it finally went away when I ditched the Lakewood bell housing and just put a stock aluminum one back in the car. Talk about frustrating and a lot of time and money out the window.
Darren
Welded up and looks good. Still tempted by a new case now that I know how simple it is. Saw another dude disassemble the thing in about 15 minutes. Seems quite easy to pull these apart, as long as one has a decent pair of snap-ring pliars.
The welder made note that it looked like the broken off piece was already previously cracked, and just went unnoticed. The surface of the crack wasn't fresh. Who knows - I didn't look that closely when I had it out.
I found a case locally for dirt cheap. I believe the cases are different between years? Basically early vs late model?
At some point...a big goal of mine is TO rebuild an auto trans. Or at least disassemble and re-assemble. Just to say I did it. I can deal with VB's...now I wanna tackle the gearset and servos!
So yeah - these things are pretty simple. I need to find a good second flat-head screwdriver to get the last piston out (the one that snap ring pliers won't work on), but it's quite simple. I'm trying to find how to inspect the pump for damage. Other than that, I have a 7 tooth output shaft to swap in, so I won't need to use that one calibration unit that I purchased some years back, for higher numerical rearend gears.
The hardest part is simply cleaning the new transmission case, and sucking out fluid in the old case as I reach puddles.
When I pulled my t-5 out, I only had 4 of 6bellhousing bolts in it. Cant remeber if I forgot to put them in, or if they somehow didnt get tightened and worked the way out.
Im curious what you found when you re mocked everything up.
I didn't find a problem mocked up. Got it installed in the car last night, the same way. Converter sat the same, but this time I tried to spin it by hand and all was well, including after the bellhousing bolts were tightened. I went 30ft/lbs this time. I wonder if the people suggesting up to 70ft/lbs are going off of (manual) iron bellhousings. I saw quite a few recommendations of a 45-65 range, but also some recommendations of 25-40ft/lbs. Since I saw a few 25 and a few 33 recommendations, I went 30.
I have to finish getting transmission mount nuts on, driveshaft, exhaust, trans dipstick, and upper intake. After these, I can do the real test - does the car reverse and move forward once filled with enough fluid...
It sounds fine, other than low fluid, and doesn't bind up, turning by hand. I sure hope it was a successful case swap. I tore it back apart a couple times since I had questions about some spots. Some torrington bearings also began to fell out of random places on reassembly - it was difficult to find exactly where they went, but between exploded diagrams and some forum posts, everything seems to be bearinged correctly.
The clutches and everything in the trans looked perfect. No heat marks anywhere with clutches looked near new. I didn't caliper anything for this case swap - figured a factory 25k mile trans that looks clean inside should be fine enough to simply assemble with new seals and rings. Other than an anti-rattle clip, everything already had the newer designed parts, such as accumulator pistons. The OD servo piston is a huge pain to install solo! Literally - so much thumb pain trying to push it in far enough to get the snap ring deep in the hole.
I go by the manual if there is one, but in this case, you can just go by generic fastener guidelines. The transmission bellhousing is meaty enough that it being Iron or AL isn't going to make a difference. What size/type fasteners are they? I've got 9.8 M8-1.25 on my 4R70W mated to a '02 3.8L in my garage. Those require ~27 ft-lb for proper preload. Going much higher than that will begin to yield the fastener.
I believe the 302 blocks use 7/16 bolts, likely a coarse thread. They are larger than what fit into the 3.8 block I picked up. Themselves, they should be good for 50ft/lbs easily.
Also, you sure that is the right size? My 3.8 block needed M10-1.50-45 or something. No idea what it came out of, but those are the bolts I picked up to bolt the two together for mockups.
Now that I've seen the internals of a transmission and not so terrified of them anymore, I really want to find a cheap core to build-up. Seems like a fun little project - pick and choose parts over time to build a really strong transmission. There's a complete 4r70w 4-hours away, listed for $50. Something closer would be nice.
You're right, actually pulled a bolt out. It's M10-1.5. ~40 ft-lbs.
You're also right that 7/16" coarse should be good to 50 lb-ft if it is grade 5 and is probably what you should torque it to unless there is official guidance otherwise. Will everything go sideways if it's at 30 ft-lbs? Probably not!
So I got the car on the ground, minus exhaust for other reasons.
Converter got a quart before install.
Filled with 5qts from dipstick for 6 total
ran in park, turned off
added 2 more quarts for 8 total
ran and started to feel it want to pull slightly in forward/reverse
added 2 more quarts for 10 total
ran and car is starting to go
added 1 more quart for 11 total
I have some LOUD (nearly overpowering open-header exhaust idle) high-pitched noise that is a steady tone, constant, and won't go away. RPM, park, reverse, neutral, forward, nothing changes the tone.
It's too late to pull outside without an exhaust and poke around with a hose up to my ear. I don't think this noise can be trans? Anyone know what noises transmissions can make? I sure hope I opened up a vacuum leak someplace. With the jerk of switching between drive and reverse, I would think the pump is working fine. I'd also expect the pump to change noise at different rpm's, if it was the cause?
I can't find a single example online of pump noise that sounds anything like what I'm hearing.
Went out there to grab a sound clip with the phone - nothing now. I heard one chirp, then no more noise. Need to try reversing out tomorrow and see how the thing engages.
If I had a high-pressure gauge, I would be testing the pressures first. I do have an OTC 400psi gauge coming so I can have one on-hand.
Still not sure what the noise was, and why it suddenly disappeared.
Might have been some trapped air somewhere and when you shut if off and let it sit it worked its way out. Just a thought as I know nothing about auto's which is why I swapped in a T-5 back in the late 90's when I switched to a carbed motor.
Darren
I thought the same thing/cavitation, but no idea why it sounded the same at 700rpms versus 2000rpms.
What about contacting this guy:
http://www.silverfoxtrans.com/silverfoxtrans.com/Home.html
He is pretty highly thought of on several of the Mustang websites.
Darren
Silverfox is always swamped! I was checking out his transmissions sometime back.
I will test a bit more thoroughly this evening. I don't see how much can be messed up with a trans case swap - as long as the torrington bearings are in the right spots, and clutch packs are complete (untouched by me), with new seals, rings, properly installed/piston-in-notch reverse and overdrive bands, and of course the spring clip(s) and anti-rattle clips, it all should work! Sounds like a lot, but it's pretty straightforward how it all slides together. Just soak in fluid and install part, then repeat, until it's all in the case. If I was putting in new drums or clutches, I would perform some measurements.
I had the pump that came out of the trans, and a spare I picked up - both looked identical. I couldn't find what to look for regarding any "pump damage" - the converter simply lines up with an aluminum gear and pops in. I did put on new seals and rings, but nothing else appeared to need replacement. The center gear was fine, without any spots being mashed up by a converter pressing on it incorrectly.
I have NO problem with the few steps required to swap output shafts. 7 tooth all the way in my future transmissions. I didn't have teflon seals on hand though, so used new Ford slit seals.
Pulled out of garage fine. Cleaned up garage. Pulled back in and noise is back. This time it changes with rpm. Looks like I'll put it up in the air again with expectation of pump replacement, verifying the filter is seated correctly first. It moves forward and reverse like normal so pressure seems fine. Pressure gauge will be here tomorrow.
Noise: http://www.masejoer.com/whine.mp3
Notice how the noise stops. It randomly comes back. I gave up for the night after the noise would not go away for 60-seconds. I figure it's time to find what's going on before running it much more - gauge will help a lot. I don't remember ever having issues such as this, getting potentially excess air out, any previous time I've put the aod or 4r70w in. Always quiet.
Sounds like a fuel pump....
No, sounds like a loud warning alarm. It's annoyingly loud. Note open-header exhaust versus noise volume levels.
The most annoying thing about pulling the trans is removing the heatercore hoses so the core doesn't get damaged...
Is there an easier way to get to the top bellhousing bolts without having the transmission leaning down at a steepangle? If I could get something on the top bolts without leaning the transmission too much, I wouldn't have to deal with the upper intake and heater lines. Even with pivot joints on extensions, it has always seemed impossible to get to the top bolts without dropping the transmission enough where the heater lines and intake start to bind/hit firewall.
THAT is the most annoying part of transmission pull for me. The 4 lower bolts are fine - after all, the dipstick mounts to the top-most lower bolt on the passenger side.
I used to pull the top two bolts first, from the top side with a gear wrench before putting the car up in the air. I was carbureted and had plenty of access though.
So jrad came over and we believe the sound was actually coming from the upper intake. Swapped gasket, started car, noise still there and won't change in different gears or with revving. He went home. I went to crawl underneath to verify bottom-up that the noise gets louder as I move toward the engine. Start car, no noise. No amount of running will make the noise return. I don't get it.
Transmission line pressure seems fine as I shift through gears: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uNP8c8i5xbY
I will measure the other pressures tomorrow to verify. I'm not worried about the trans as much now that I know it has adequate pressure.
TCCOA says:
Main Line Pressure
In P/N, OD, D/2, 1 @ Idle Hot - 50 to 75 psi
In P/N, OD, D/2, 1 @ Stall Hot - 160 to 210 psi
In Reverse @ Idle Hot - 80 to 120 psi
In Reverse @ Stall Hot - 220 to 280 psi
I have 77psi pressure idle, 200psi stall, 110psi reverse, I haven't tested reverse stall.
Other idle pressures with cold fluid - trying to find if they are all normal. I believe they are:
Intermediate clutch:
Park - 0psi
Reverse - 0psi
Neutral - 0psi
Overdrive - 0psi
2nd gear - 60psi
1st gear - 0psi
EPC:
Park - 16psi
Reverse - 18psi
Neutral - 16psi
Overdrive - 16psi
2nd gear - 15psi
1st gear - 16psi
Forward clutch:
Park - 0psi
Reverse - 0psi
Neutral - 0psi
Overdrive - 62psi
2nd gear - 58psi
1st gear - 62psi
Direct clutch:
Park - 0psi
Reverse - 0psi
Neutral - 0psi
Overdrive - 0psi
2nd gear - 0psi
1st gear - 0psi
Pulled out, re-checked some things, put back in. Had flexplate/converter issues this time, but got it all in. Still runs fine. I'm more comfortable with everything now, and with new loctite, everything is reinstalled correctly.
Planning on taking the car out for a short sprint tomorrow. Very short - new exhaust parts will be here next week. For now, open headers.
On that topic, I believe most aftermarket midpipes have clearance issues for the shifter bracket in automatics. Anyone run into this issue before? What is the "best" fix, rather than chopping off half the bracket?
Took car out today, immediately came back after getting onto the main road, put old exhaust back on. Open headers and 3k stall is not nice to anyone in the general area.
On another note, nice to feel how power comes on in a v8 again. Transmission appears to work fine. I'll need to find my new dccontrol thermister before I drive more. Can't go far without cooling!
I'm glad everything is getting sorted out. Sorry I didn't stick around longer, I was getting sick and had a lot going on this last week.
Even I didn't dare drive mine with open exhaust all the way to the exhaust shop. I had slip joints fabbed where I cut mine off and just clamped it. That was loud enough going down the highway. :)
Found my stuff to get the fan going again. Now just that pesky whistle which came back. I'm looking at the pcv area - it could need to be pressed in further. Dumping water at the front of the lower intake, so it flows to the back, didn't seem to change anything. Lower intake gaskets should be fine.
Man that looks real nice with those wheels
I had a similar issue when installing my Monster AOD. As I was tightening the case bolts up,it would lock the cranktrain down on my 351 Cleveland. I thought perhaps I hadn't shortened the input shaft enough as the guys at Rev-Max had instructed. After being in and out of the car 2-3 times, I placed a piece of angle iron across the front of the bellhousing and measured how deep each component that engaged the converter was. Turns out, my Monster had more clearance on the input shaft, the pump gear depth, the direct input...all good. The problem was a change in the way the stator support was machined. The Monster pump had a more rounded area in front of the splines and that was bottoming out in the converter, making the converter sit too far forward. Some very judicious clearancing with a Dremel got the clearance opened up. The two components spline together and are locked, so you don't need to worry about the "machined finish" as the two compnents are in a "fixed" relationship.
Yeah, I don't really care now that it's resolved. Not sure what happened exactly, but the transmission works great in a new case. I didn't even have to touch the transmission pump or converter - they looked and work fine. Also found that my oil leak back there was due to ALL of my engine oil pan bolts loosening up. Some felt like they were no more than 2-3ft/lbs. Was worried after installing a crank sleeve and new rear main seal, and then saw oil in the back again!
There are bigger things to worry about now. I hope to get the motor purring, rather than sputtering.