Hey guys got a weird issue with my a/c. 1st of all The a/c does not seem to blow as cold as it should, that being said I put a gauge on it recently and it is well within where it needs to be as far as charge. It could be that I'm just used to the a/c in my newer vehicles...
My main issue is that it intermittently will start blowing hot air. I may drive 10 miles with cold air blowing out on max A/C but then may go 2-3 miles with hot air blowing out. Today when I got home I left the car idling and thought I'd pop the hood to check things out. I immediately noticed that the compressor wasn't turning. It's dumb I know but I took my finger and lightly pressed on the front of the compressor pulley. This made the clutch snap in and the compressor started turning.
I'm guessing the clutch is worn out? Or would pushing on it make it engage? Under what conditions does the clutch normally engage/disengage? I don't know much about a/c so any ideas would be helpful!!
What were your manifold gauge numbers for low and high side at idle and what was the temp. at the time?
I knew someone would ask. I really can't remember...I borrowed some gauges from a tech where I work and he told me it was well within range. Does 30-40 psi low and 180-200 high sound right?
Ambient temp today is 90+ with heat index of 100+ but this is a constant problem. It's been doing this for a couple years maybe. I just don't drive the car enough to have had to worry about it. Looking to take the car to Power Tour again next year and want the A/C working 100%!
I'd get the manifold gauge numbers to be sure it's ok. Sounds like a charge issue. Does it have R-12 or R-134A in the system?
I converted to 134a more than 10 years ago. I bought a can of 134a today at work (its John Deere brand, its gotta be good right?) and am going to charge it up again tonight to be sure.
I'm going to try and make sure the temperature adjustment cable is adjusted correctly...I was reading online today that they can get stretched or worn a tad and cause issues similar to mine.
Double checked my A/C charge and on the low side with A/C on max it dips down to 20 psi and when compressor kicks in it jumps to maybe 40-ish. The compressor also cycles on and off a LOT. So I'm assuming I have a leak and that I'm low on 134a again. I'm going to put some more in and see if that helps. When I started thinking about it, its been quite awhile since I had a gauge on it. I was thinking it was this spring but now I'm inclined to think it may have been last fall, lol. I've been too busy to do anything with my car...:(
I didn't get time to check the temp control cable yet, but it feels odd when you try to turn it on cold. Like it will only go maybe 3/4 to the left and wont adjust fully to max cold. I'll have to check it out too...hopefully with those two things mended it will blow cold again.
its low for sure. I'd check ur retrofit kit for a leak but also i'd check do make sure u didnt bend a valve when kit was put in.
also pag 150 with ice will help cool it down nice.
also my slider does the same thing urs does just gotta give it a little nudge to get it all the way over.
I tend to think that I didn't bend anything as I did the 134a retrofit more than 10 years ago. It could be that something is leaking on it though. At 190k and years of wear and tear there are probably several leaks if I had to guess.
I'll charge her up and see what that does 1st. Interesting about your slider. Mine has been that way for awhile but I think still could use some adjustment. Now that summer is almost over I'm realizing I need to get my butt in gear and drive the car more before its time to go into storage again.
The low side should be between 32&42 lbs and the high side at or around 180-230 lbs. If it cycles very often it is most likely low. But if you touched the clutch while the engine was running and AC on that is dangerous. never do that with your bare hands . I am assuming that is what you posted? If not sorry. That could indicate a to wide of a gap in the clutch plates. Charge it up and see what happens. maybe just a fluke that it snapped on just at that moment you touched it. .But when running it should never dip bellow 25 Lbs on high max. If on lower settings it will dip bellow 32 and in that case cycle. it is normal to cycle on certain days and settings depending on state of charge and outside temps. Always measure you freon charge. there is no guessing on this one. You can use superheat to determine charge but that is another story. Always charge exact amounts for the system you are servicing Plus Or minus .2 Lbs. Also check the clutch non engaged air gap and should be around .040-.050. good luck tom
Last time I checked, I wasn't nuts. Thanks.
Well i apologize and edited the answer . You are clearly putting your hand at risk. Is that better. I have seen accidents before by people doing silly things like this. Some mechanics check clutch fans by stopping them while the car is running with there bare hands. I have written many times about dangerous procedures people do around cars like removing battery cables from a running engine. very dangerous but they ignore it anyway. Once again i would not touch a clutch on a running engine just me. Sorry for being wrong again. Did i answer the question and help with your issue.
I'll go with Tom. Pressures sound good, but short cycling gives it away. If I had to go Monday quarterback on this one, I'd say you're down 8 to 10oz. With the size of your system, it's enough to short cycle, but still mostly work. I second the gap check, but I'd try to get just a bit tighter than .040, .030 to .035 usually gives good quiet clutch operation. Always do a full reclaim and vacuum prior to charging, as getting a precise charge weight is crucial to efficient operation. In 16 years in the shop, I've seen too many mutilated hands from guys putting them in unsafe places. Try to keep them safe, there are no good replacements available.
If you recharge, have a good gap, and a good cycling switch, THEN you suspect a failing field coil.
If you read my 1st post I said "its dumb I know" in regards to touching the pulley. So I obviously already realized what I did was dumb and really don't need further reinforcement in regards to my stupidity ;). Actually as soon as I did it I thought "boy I'm a dumbass". The pulley wasn't turning yet and I just thought I'd push on it quickly to see if it had any "slop" to it...it was one of those brain dead bone head moves that I'm sure no one else on the interwebs has ever done except me.
I recharged it and it seems to be blowing ice cold for now. The refrigerant I used supposedly has some sort of "stop leak" in it. We shall see if it really works, I guess. I used some when I converted to 134a back in the day and it stayed charged for 8-10 years afterwards. I checked my records and I converted over in 2002. Boy time sure does fly by. Hopefully the leak is a small one and the stop leak does its job.
Next issue to address is to install the new upper control arm bushings that I've had on the shelf for 2-3 years. I've been putting that one off for too long.
Upper control arms? You mean lower arms! TYPO!!! just asking thanks. Have a great evening guys
I think he means for the rear axle.
That makes sense. Normally we call them upper trailing arms. I was just curious. Have a great day. Yesterday was a scorcher. Thank god for an AC shop!!
Yeah rear upper control arms. That's what I've always heard them called anyway...
Here are the one's I have: http://www.cheperformance.com/prod-117.htm
I've got no personal experience with those, but I hear poly uppers are bad news. Lots of binding and rough ride. Best of luck.
Foe that is why i make my own from Heim aircraft ends and make them adjustable to set pinion angles when i drop cars. Dropping a car requires setting the upper trailing arms to compensate for pinion angles. Have a great evening guys.
I linked the wrong ones, mine are adjustable. Had to do that to correct the pinion angle. Here are the ones I actually have: http://www.cheperformance.com/prod-118.htm. Mine are rod ends on the one side. The bushings I need to replace are the ones on top of the 8.8 axle. They're original and worn out. I am going to just put stock rubber style ones back in because (like Foe) I've heard you don't want to run all poly due to the potential for binding.
I have the same problem to an extent, it just blows halfway cold when set to 60 degrees.. may be a charge but who knows. this has nothing to do with the a/c issue lol, but you said you have 190k on the dash? have you ever had the pvc valve issue or a bad egr? i got one with 120k and i think the pvc is clogged and the egr is bad causing a slight miss feeling once in a while. im just trying to diagnose and figure out common issues with these engines.. 302 seems pretty solid so far. ive heard a lot.. but mines been sitting and has a few little oil drips here and there
I deleted the EGR when I did the HO swap and did a new PCV valve then too. There are a lot of vacuum lines on these cars that are old and brittle and can cause a rough idle like you are talking about too...just a thought! 302's are great. I got my car from my dad when I was 17 and was not kind to it early on. It still runs like a champ but is definitely "weak" in its old age. It was very reliable and got 25+ mpg before I started doing "stuff" to it.
that's what i figured, shoot mine only gets 21 mpg at the most now. it needs some work but.. strong motor.. who need a/c? just do a delete ;P lol. can't with these hot summers no more