Hey everyone, Dave from CN. I figured I'd ask everyone a question about the front suspension.
Within the next week or two I plan on doing the front 5-lug swap with 99+ spec brakes. I have the "while I'm in there" kind of attitude about this swap and really don't want to have to do it twice if I decide on front tubular suspension components in the future.
Alright here's my questions...
1. I REALLY want to do tubular front A-arms, and realize that our size arms are the same as SN-95 arms, but which brand would you recommend?
2. I'm tossing around the idea of those a-arms because I'd really like to do a coilover conversion at the same time. Since I'm going to be putting a 9 inch wheel in the front, I'd like to make as much clearance as possible. I've heard that I'd need a 10 (or 12 is it) inch spring on the coilovers to clear that size wheel. Who makes these coil over conversions? What kind of struts would I have to have to mount the coilovers?
3. If all of the above falls through (funds permitting) I'd really like to put some springs that will lower the 4x4 stance in the front of this thing. What kind of standard springs are up for options to lower this, say... 1.5-2 inches in the front? How about the rear springs? I have SN95 springs back there now and they are just about as low as stock, and just about as soft :(
4. After I'm PBR-ed how hard is the cobra brake swap? Calipers, hoses, rotors, pads?
I think that's all for now :rollin: This car will be on jacks this summer more then it's on the road at this rate
Thanks
Comeon... I know people have done this...
1. As far as control arms, if you want the best, you can't go wrong with Maximum Motorsports or Griggs Racing.
2. MM sells 8"-12" springs, along with the coil-over kit specific to Bilstein or Koni/Tokico struts.
3. http://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?t=62
4. Pretty easy. Prolly the easiest mod of everything you asked.
you need to put stock turbo coupe springs in the back, out of a 87-88 thunder bird. that should firm up the back end. The stangs rear springs are whimpy. also check the lower control arms http://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?t=960 these can help with the back end alot.
I just put on a ground pounder mustang k-member w/coil overs. I used KYB AGX adjustable struts for a mustang also. I used my original spindles and brakes (87 XR7), but had to do some machining to get the mustang struts to bolt up. The mounting ear on the cougar spindle is .200in thicker and the top bolt hole was off .100in. A litle quick machining and everything bolted right on. I haven't driven the car yet, so I can't really tell you how the struts are, except they assembled easily with the coil over springs and look pretty nice. Just be sure to match the struts to which ever spindles you will be using.
If I decided to go with some adjustable struts up front, what year mustang would I buy them for (since I'm going to have 94-95 spindles)?
Any ideas what size specifically would clear the 9" wheel? I remember someone on here having issues with clearance with some size coilover.
Also, where are the cougar specific CC plates? I remember someone posting them, but can't find the site.
Thanks for all the replies so far.
I'd go with Griggs or MM. Both will fit in a stock K-member, although some K-member grinding might be in order. The MM arms have the same dimensions stock control arms. I believe (not 100% sure) that the Griggs arms are slightly narrower than the stock LCAs.
You don't need tubular control arms to run coil-overs. The upside to running OEM arms is that you keep the rubber bushings to make daily driving more bearable. I don't know what your goal is in this project, but I'm a soft-ass. I'd be leery of running 9" wide wheels. I know a few members have done it, but after seeing svopaul's TC with SN95 hardware and 17x8s, I don't see how 17x9s would fit w/o fender modifications. MM and Griggs both make excellent coil-over conversions. MM has Bilstein, Koni, and Tokico struts for their coil-over kits.
As said before, very easy (and very expensive). For daily driving, the Cobra swap is form before function deal.
87-04. As long as the Fox Struts are for a V8 they will fit. :)
[size=-1]This is from MM (http://"http://www.maximummotorsports.com")'s website...[/size][/u]
[size=-1]
A1.[/size] [size=-1]There may be tire and wheel clearance issues, depending on the wheel size, back spacing, and tire size. For example, our coil-over kit will not interfere with a 275/40/17 tire on a 17X9 Cobra wheel on an '87 Mustang with '95 spindles. The Konig Villain wheels will require a ¼" wheel spacer for clearance.
[/size][size=-1]Your best bet is to email/call them. They respond pretty quickly and offer lots of help. ;) Good luck.[/size]
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FYI, I've read several reports that Mustangs with the above combo needed an 8" spring to clear the wheel.
PS I'd go with MM. Nothing against Griggs, but MM has a better reputation for part longevity and tech support.
I wonder if the above combo also has their tubular control arms in there as well... hmm...
Looks like my front conversion might catch up to my rear in price.
I planned on putting 245/45/17's on the front on the 17x9 cobras. Little more narrow wheel, but that would probably give me a bit more clearance. Do you think I could run a 275 up front like they seem to suggest?
Also, the spring rates, what kind of rate should I aim for? I don't mind it being a bit on the stiff side, I'd like this thing to handle well, and it isn't my daily driver anymore. But I'd still like to drive it on the street when I do. I'll probably aim for that 8" spring just to be on the safe side of things.
Thanks for all the help so far :)
genereally, people who run a 9" wheel up front need to use stang control arms (fox) to bring the wheels inward a bit, so they dont rub the fender
I'm running 17x8.5" rims and have a hell of a time with them. They rub the A-arms on extreme turns. Can't imagine a full 9" rim up there. A full tubular A-arm should help though, as well as a coil-over swap. Man, it's just sooooo easy for me to spend your money, David. :)
Fender lip rubbage is going to be a major factor. Depends on how low the car is, but in general I'd make sure there's at least 3 fingers between the top o' the tire and the fender lip. I just had my front springs (1988 Turbo Coupe) replaced with the originals, and now there is no rubbing, and I can actually use my aluminum jack under my own car. Woohoo! Before, though, I was sing the tire on the passenger side over bumps. It was taking chunks out...fortunately it didn't kill the tire completely but I will need new ones sooner than planned (which for me is like, once every 7 years). I realize that backspacing, and clearance of the suspension, is your main goal with running that rim, but please do not forget about the height factor. I learnt the hard way.
Thanks for spending my money Eric :) You're not the only one at this point :D
After my experiences with the fender lip on the rear and having to beat the hell outta that one, I'll probably just remove it completely before I put the front together.
I wonder Shawn, what other kinds of problems does putting a mustang A-arm put in? What other suspension components would have to be replaced?
I got my Big ol' Box of Mystery yesterday in the mail. That thing looks like it's been to hell and back.
:bowdown:
if you want to run a 9'' wheel you really have to use fox control arms or your wheels will sit on the fender depending how low ya go