Fox T-Bird/Cougar Forums

Well Bruiser finally blew a head gasket as all 2.3 turbo engines will eventually do. So i could not resist caming it and building a great head for it. So i milled it .040 and installed stellite seats a custom roller  cam and double springs and retainers. The head is done with new cam bearings and guides and slightly ported by me with a 3 angle valve job. The cam is mild @ 580 LIFT 222@50 and cut on 114 CL for fast turbo spooling and a new turbo. This should increase the HP and torque significantly. I will post progress if you like and run dyno numbers when completed. Have a great evening guys

(http://i740.photobucket.com/albums/xx46/proguns/DSCF2365_zps6f228f23.jpg) (http://s740.photobucket.com/user/proguns/media/DSCF2365_zps6f228f23.jpg.html)

(http://i740.photobucket.com/albums/xx46/proguns/DSCF2366_zpsc7dad02d.jpg) (http://s740.photobucket.com/user/proguns/media/DSCF2366_zpsc7dad02d.jpg.html)

(http://i740.photobucket.com/albums/xx46/proguns/DSCF2367_zps75f7ed16.jpg) (http://s740.photobucket.com/user/proguns/media/DSCF2367_zps75f7ed16.jpg.html)

(http://i740.photobucket.com/albums/xx46/proguns/DSCF2368_zpsc366bf9c.jpg) (http://s740.photobucket.com/user/proguns/media/DSCF2368_zpsc366bf9c.jpg.html)

.040" cut? How much compression are you going to end up with?

I always like to be around 8.7-9 to one. remember the cam reduces sweep compression quite a bit. Have a great evening

Maybe I missed an old thread, but what is "bruiser"?

Bruiser is my 1987 Turbo Coupe. I always name my cars.

Here is some little tricks you can use to finish the head correctly. Never use the stock POSI drive screws. Always invert the cam plate and install regular screws and washers. This allows easy removal with the head on the car.

(http://i740.photobucket.com/albums/xx46/proguns/DSCF2370_zpsa948fc53.jpg) (http://s740.photobucket.com/user/proguns/media/DSCF2370_zpsa948fc53.jpg.html)

(http://i740.photobucket.com/albums/xx46/proguns/DSCF2372_zps4f135b20.jpg) (http://s740.photobucket.com/user/proguns/media/DSCF2372_zps4f135b20.jpg.html)

Always re-tap every hole in the head and block before assembly. First use a regular tap then a bottom tap. I do every one of them .

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Always check any screws or plugs that come with the cam,. This plug is always loose. Ask me how i know!!

(http://i740.photobucket.com/albums/xx46/proguns/DSCF2371_zps2f838204.jpg) (http://s740.photobucket.com/user/proguns/media/DSCF2371_zps2f838204.jpg.html)

Next a seal must be tapped in and i always use plenty of assembly lube and use the correct driver.

(http://i740.photobucket.com/albums/xx46/proguns/DSCF2373_zpscb15bc54.jpg) (http://s740.photobucket.com/user/proguns/media/DSCF2373_zpscb15bc54.jpg.html)

Here is the driver a number 4 i know this from experience but a driver must contact the rim of the seal and have plenty of depth to clear the cam when you tap in the seal


(http://i740.photobucket.com/albums/xx46/proguns/DSCF2374_zps7135ce80.jpg) (http://s740.photobucket.com/user/proguns/media/DSCF2374_zps7135ce80.jpg.html)

Next a cam gear. Because i milled this head .040 i have to correct the cam timing. 6* advanced is where i want to be to bring the cam back to speck. I do not have the head on yet to check a final time but experience tells me this will be close. have a great evening  if you like i will post more photos if interested Thanks tom


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This is useful, good stuff. Thanks for sharing, Tom.

Is the roller cam a reground Ranger or a new one?  Sounds like you'll have a healthy mid to upper-range from your specs.

Come on Tom!  More pics of the build.  I'm stuck fixing freakin gm cars all day, this stuff keeps me sane.  Well kinda sane.

Brand new cam ground to my specks. Not a reduced base circle cam.

I love the 2.3 and i vowed to leave bruiser stock but what the heck when the gasket blew all bets were off. This setup should pull hard from 2000-6000 RPM'S More stuff to come. Have a great day guys

Ok getting ready to install the head. gasket in place dowels in and trimmed to my specks and alignment pins installed. And most important the triangle is in the rear right hand corner of the block. Yes you can mess this up and install it backwards. Always put the pins in the 2 dowel holes to insure they align properly. This is another one of my secret things

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Head on and exhaust hooked up. Ford TTY bolts never use old bolts. 51 FT/LBS Plus 100*

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Because the head was milled .040 the dowels had to be trimmed. As the matter of fact even if the head was not milled the dowels would have to be trimmed. A trial fit showed 1/8 inch trim. Ford superseded the dowels and even a stock engine needs to have them trimmed. Speck is to install them all the way in the head and have 1/16 protrude. Then install them in the block. The 302 guys need to check this also. More times than not they have to be trimmed as well.

(http://i600.photobucket.com/albums/tt88/tomrenzo/DSCF2383_zps03be244a.jpg)

Now the lower i drilled and tapped the boss just over the knock sensor hole. This is used to mount the dip stick. here is where you put it

(http://i600.photobucket.com/albums/tt88/tomrenzo/DSCF2384_zpsd1002011.jpg)


With the new place to mount the dipstick you can throw this ridiculous stock bracket in the garbage. Moving the stick to the lower allows the upper to be removed for simple valve cover removal without removing the dipstick. Something the 2.3 guys will appreciate. That stick is a bitch to install trust me.

(http://i600.photobucket.com/albums/tt88/tomrenzo/DSCF2382_zps942b82a1.jpg)


Naturally you will need dowels. I made them from the old head bolts SIMPLE

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Now if you noticed all the sensors are removed from the lower there is a reason for this. I will make a water manifold to accept them and move the air charge sensor forward of the radiator. Stay tuned for that if you are interested. It will get me 12 more wheel HP.

Hope you like this info and simple mods i come up with.  And how Bruiser is coming along. I know not to many 2.3 guys on this site but a couple i think. Have a great evening guys

Hey tom just curious why not a layered metal gasket

Because i have these in stock. And the 8993 is a good gasket for a block that is not milled. I have even used the 1035 and they also blow in a couple of years also. I was thinking of a multi layer but never got around to it. Have you used a multi layer you can recommend. Thanks Tom

The trusty 8993 or 1035 work better on our motors than the MLS stuff. I tried a Mr. Gasket MLS and it leaked between the steel layers. After the first time leaking, I removed it, separated the layers, cleaned everything and sprayed everything with copperkote spray and re-installed it.....still leaked. Heaved it into the trash and now run a 8993 with stainless o-rings installed in the block. Works like a charm.
I hear you on the oil dipstick bracket..what a pita. I had to hack mine up to fit under my aftermarket FPR mounted at the back of the upper manifold. Your solution would have been easier, that's for sure.
On the MAT sensor, where are you coming up with the 12hp number? Just curious as I have my MAT sensor just ziptied next to my air filter for now but I eventually want to install it in the IC piping after the intercooler.

If it picks up heat where it definitely does in the stock location it pulls out timing. So i mount it in front of the radiator behind the headlights where it gets plenty of cool air. I also move the CTS to the heater hose along with a fan switch to keep the hot coolant from flowing through the intake. It picked up app 11-12 WHP. It must like to have cool turbo air and responds to a hp increase. Just some of the things i mess with and found gains. Have a great day.

By the way i appreciate the feedback on the MLS gasket. That is what i also read on other forums. I have had very good luck with Fel Pro. Do you have photos of your O ringed block?? I would like to see that. Now if we could only add more head bolts to those 2.3 heads. I have actually increased the diameter of the stock bolts on an engine i did by drilling the head and re-tapping the block for oversize bolts. That worked real good but a lot of work to accomplish. But adding more bolts would be the key and would solve our issues. Nice talking with another 2.3 guy. I love them and have been working on them since i was contacted by FORD for my rod modification on the 2.3 in the early days. I used to sell my rods at the Danbury race arena to the midget guys and a ford engineer approached me to ask how i fixed the scuffing issue. Ford used my design ans that is old history. But the 2.3 was basically bullet proof other than head gaskets and dizzy gears.You could say i saved the 2.3 as Ford was in fact going to s the engine till i made those rod mods that worked to fix the piston scuffing issues. That was a long time ago and thank god i am still here to speak about it. Yes the old days and old timer stories. How did i get there. Thanks for the info

I don't have a photo of the o-ringed block that is currently in the car but here is a pic of my backup block. Bored to 3.800 and half filled with hardblok:

(http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f92/turbod408/oringblock_zpsebff81f6.jpg) (http://s45.photobucket.com/user/turbod408/media/oringblock_zpsebff81f6.jpg.html)

Very nice. Can you street drive it FILLED that much. I would think not. Am i wrong. That is sweet MAN!!! Thanks for the photo. Have a great day guys

By now you guys most likely figured out i am a resourceful guy. But actually i graduated from St Johns with a mechanical engineering degree so i come up with little things that people take for granted while building engines. As you know bruiser is a 2.3 and the cam bolt that holds on the cam gear is drilled and tapped directly in to the oil system. So ford says to wrap Teflon tape around the bolt and install it. I say Bullshiznit that will allow the tape access to the oil spirt holes in the cam lobes and has the potential to clog them. So what i do is put a select washer behind the bolt and stock washer and install a heavy duty O RING. The washer stack or shim has to fit inside the gear hub and be .230 Thousands of an inch thick. Or be below the stock washer by app .030-.040 bellow the gear hub.  This way the O ring is pressed in to the relief ground in every 2.3 cam and sits on the smooth shoulder of the stock bolt. Then there is no need for the Teflon tape. Bellow is how it is done for all that cares i guess. Just another tip i am passing along for kicks and giggles. dad always told me never use my head for a HAT RACK. have a great day guys!!


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I checked with several people running it this way and they have no cooling issues on the street. I may put an oil cooler on the car to supplement the stock cooling system when I run this particular block.

Very interesting that you are able to still use the 8993.

The block for the engine I am putting together for my car is also o-ringed (the machine shop just "assumed" that I wanted it done) and I was expecting to have to resort to using a copper head gasket. I would much prefer to use the 8993 or 1035 instead if I can get away with it.

I think I have a spare 8993 laying around. I should put it on there and snug the head down to see wear the wire imprint falls on the gasket.

Thanks for the info Tom!  I didn't O-ring my block because I figured its easier to change a head gasket instead of splitting a block.  I am building my 2.3 with an He-351 and am hoping for 400hp.  I will def watch this thread.

BCA, your o-rings look like they were done just like mine...005-.007" out of the block. If that is the case, then yes, the 8993 will work fine with it. When you go copper, you usually want the o-ring up out of the deck .020" or more as well as a reciever groove in the head so the copper gets pushed into the groove.

lakenheath, I understand the thought process on the HG being a "fuse", but the problem is the HG is too weak of a fuse IMO. Splitting the block? Maybe if you are running 1000+hp and things horribly wrong, lol! Trust me, I am the poster child of tearing these engines up. Run good pistons and RODS....did I say GOOD RODS...and by the way don't forget the rods. 400hp and stock rods equals this:

(http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f92/turbod408/broken8.jpg) (http://s45.photobucket.com/user/turbod408/media/broken8.jpg.html)
(http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f92/turbod408/broken6.jpg) (http://s45.photobucket.com/user/turbod408/media/broken6.jpg.html)

I'll measure the height of them to be sure, but this is great news for me if you have been having no problems with them and the stock gasket. Thanks!

Vent the block would have been a better choice of words.  Thx for the info on the rods. I rebuilt with 600$ pjstons and left the stock rods in cuz I thought those and the stock crank can take 400hp. Guess I need to rethink?

Actually the stock rods are pretty beefy. And can take at least 380 as i have actually run one this way. Not to say better rods are a big plus. I thing the HP is not the issue as much as the RPM Band. have a great day guys.

Here we go remote mount intake air temp sensor. Drill a hole for mounting and sensor. Then mount on one of the front lights of the turbo coupe behind the headlight. Presto cool air flow over sensor. You 5.0 guys can benefit from this also

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The CTS can also be moved as i blocked off the coolant path in the lower intake. No heat more Ponies??

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Fan control sensor best location. On 180* Off 165*

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Need to torque the cam bolt and dizzy bolt for the cog gears. here is the tools

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(http://i600.photobucket.com/albums/tt88/tomrenzo/DSCF2394_zpsd386e1c9.jpg)

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Initial install of Dizzy for a quick start after a belt change or dizzy removal. The cap hold down screw holes should be perpendicular to the block with the square one to the rear of the car. Then line up the second slot after the alignment rotor slot  with it pointing to the square boss on the PIP. this will put you on 10* BTDC for a clean easy start. Then remove the spout and time as usual. Paint some antiseize compound on the cap  screws. You will thank me for this when replacing caps down the road. Those screws bust off all the time OOPS!!!

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(http://i600.photobucket.com/albums/tt88/tomrenzo/DSCF2397_zps7468f769.jpg)

I always use this tool to hold the cam and aux. shaft gears while torquing them down.
(http://i.imgur.com/Qk52NBZl.jpg)

That works but for 3 bucks i just wanted to post other options. I have that tool somewhere in the shop. Thanks for posting it.

Hey I'm all for coming up with cheap solutions - and sharing them with everyone is even better! :cheers:

Know i know what it is , IT is an AC clutch holding fixtuer to tighten the clutch nut. Yep i have one. Forgot about that because i install the whole compressor when they go bad. Thanks again> Have a great weekend guys!!

WOW WHAT A DAY WHAT A DAY, I finished up Bruiser this morning and drove it for app 30 Miles to get everything used to each other. Then back to the shop for you got it. DYNO TIME. Well before the mods she put down 151HP and 144 FTLBS of torque at 5500 Rpm's. NOW she put down a WOPPING 224 HP and 230 FTLBS of torque at 5500 Rpm"s. That is an increase of 87 HP and 86 FTLBS of torque. This is great to say the least. I am blown away by this. Naturally it is nothing compared to other cars i have but a great improvement on this car. So i gained this at a cost of 1100 bucks total. No labor of course and i am as happy as a clam. She drives smooth and pulls real hard from 2300-6100. Tom JR took it for a spim and was also impressed with it. Tomorrow i clean her up check all the fluids once again and drive her to the cruse tomorrow night. How to find some 5.0 mustang to tangle with.  Have a great evening guys

Tom, moving the air charge intake sensor, doesn't that effect the cars adaptive fuel strategy? I've heard that it can make things run a bit rich since it is generally located in the lower intake manifold for us 5.0 guys.

This thread is a lot more interesting then your ls builds ;).

No the air charge sensor does not effect the mixture to much and when it gets hot it pulls out timing and some fuel . I have been moving them for years like this. The intake gives it false readings. Moving it works great. Have a great day guys!!

ok moving the ACT is a first for me,, need to understand the pro's and cons
seems like it will reduce fuel economy for those like me who "like that".... I may be wrong.

You mean I drilled and tapped a hole in my explorer intake for nothing. . Looks like it will impede flow too.:punchballs:

The IAT/ACT sensor will start to pull timing around 190 degrees Fahrenheit at WOT.  I've never really found too much info on what -- if anything -- it does under partial load (NOT WOT) conditions.  The EEC-IV is used to seeing it at the position on the intake runner on a 5.0 car.  The ACT spark advance/reduction on an EEC-V equipped vehicle is different altogether besides having it in the air intake before the TB. 

Me personally I'd not move it from the stock location on a 5.0 that is naturally aspirated.  Some forced induction setups call for relocation.

I know for my 4.6 3V it's built into the MAF sensor.  When/if I ever decide to intercool the supercharger on that and crank up the boost it's pretty much a necessity to move it into the intake for safety purposes (i.e. not blowing stuff up).  With the newer cars you have to retune every time you seem to do anything anyhow.....

Dam DEMON never likes my ideas. I am taking my tool box and locking it FOREVER.

I like that 2.3 timing hold device...great thinking....

Travis