Having trouble deciding on which cam I want to go with.
The engine is mostly stock internally, P heads with a valve job, 1.6 roller rockers, and possibly some porting done (not sure yet, so that's uncertain for now) and BBK 1515 headers, Flowmaster 2.5" exhaust all the way to the bumper.
Inlet duty is by a Cobra or possibly an Explorer intake, and I've got an Explorer TB to use. Don't really have a specific power goal, just wanting something that runs well with these parts, and is reliable with an A9L and a T5. 3.55 gear out back, also.
What would you guys recommend, lift wise, and duration?
I like the numbers of the X303, but I'm not sure if I'll have PtV issues with it. Comp cams has one that's .512 lift, but has an RPM range from 1,800 to 5,800...but I've never heard anything about comp cams.
Then of course there's a proven runner, TFS Stage 1. I'm really liking this, and there's been so many guys run 'em and make great power that it's even stupid to waste time asking about it and I should probably just STFU and order the ed thing right now..
I'd like a little bit of a rumbly idle, but I put function of form, per se.
What's the general consensus on this? Thanks in advance. :D:bowdown:
I think about this kind of stuff all the time and my biggest concern is streetability and gas mileage.
I kinda like the idea of adding oem parts from other years/cars yet still keeping the decent gas economy.
not sure where your mind is on this part but fuel consumption coupled with power is important.
there are so many people who have pm'd me about this topic and some have said they simply cant afford to drive the car anymore like they use to.
The Stage 1 has just enough lope to be noticeable and pulls hard to fuel cutoff at 6250... Needs a 3K or so converter to really turn on in a automatic but with the deep gears of a 5-speed you'd be ready to go...
Running between 60 & 65 I've gotten as high as 26.3 MPG in my bird with 3.73 gear(few of the real TC at Carlisle bested that number)... Also it's run 13.11 @ 105 in it younger days before I beat on it like a redheaded step child... That was with a 2600 converter, with another 500-600 RPM stall it would have gone at least a 12.90...
I appreciate the mileage concerns, but I drive a 5.0/AWD Mountaineer...mileage matters not. Especially on something that would be driven maybe 2 or 3 times a week. However, as long as it gets better than 10 in town I don't put a lot of worry into that. :)
I was breifly kicking around the notion of taking the fresh rebuilt AOD that was in the parts Stang and slapping a 3200 stall converter in it and going with it, but I think I'll have the T5 overhauled or even do it myself and stay with a manual. I think with the combo I mentioned the T5 ought to survive. There won't be any sticky tired launches in it's future, but the car does have some Nitto 555's on it...I guess they're pretty grippy for what they are..
Looks like the TFS 1 is it...I've never heard very much bad about them. I might even tear the block down and have it cleaned, new main and rod bearings, pretty much a freshening up. It's be awesome to bore it for a little more grunt but that's moneys I ain'ts gots.
There isn't much bad to say about it besides, I dunno, maybe TF or someone else has come up with something MORE potent with a SMOOTHER idle. The wonders of high-resolution CNC machining. But my black cougar has it (the whole TF Track Heat top end kit) and it doesn't really turn on until past 3 grand, but as stated, with bigger gears to dig you out of the hole, it works great. It's not going to idle at 600 rpm and let you just ease out of the clutch and start moving like a '51 Pontiac with a straight-8...but an E303 stalls violently if you step off the straight and narrow of keeping well over 1000-1500 rpm as you leave the stoplight. The TF Stage 1 is a very safe choice that won't piss you off in a "coulda had more" way.
They do innovate quite a bit, the whole "twisted wedge" rotated valve orientation apparently is patented, their own idea, and apparently does a lot for airflow.
Yeah, I don't want something that's a pain in the s at stoplights, what driving I will do is going to be 95% street. Manners are a must have, some lope is ok but not required, but the preference is definitely some strong low to mid range power and torque.
On the other hand, I wonder how something like this would also work in a Mountaineer such as mine? May have to do some searching and see if some folks at the ranger station and the explorer forums have tried it, and to what success they've gotten to...hmmm.
it, I hate when I start to thinking too far along...I get into trouble..LOL.
The cam question maybe better on a mustang board...
I would search for the 94-95 5.0 5speed recommended setups....as they are a similar weight to our cars...
Hope this helps.
Travis
I just said to hell with it and plunked down $300 and had an Ed Curtis custom cam ground for the 331 in the Coupe. I was tired of asking which off the shelf cam will work best with my combo when in all reality none of them were on the money. I did run a Comp stick in the Coupe back when it had a 306 with ported 351W D0ZZ heads and a Tom Moss ported lower Cobra intake and that little motor would pull like a mule all the way to the chip through the first four gears and put it on the rev limiter in 5th. I'd have to dig a bit but I think I still have the cam card on that motor somewhere.
Don't worry about a T-5 handling the power as long as you do not run full out slicks or drag radials with a car that manages 1.60's or better all day long. My T-5 is behind a 331 in my Coupe now and taking the punishment just fine.
Darren
THIS.
I did the same thing. Best money I've ever spent on the cat.
a few stang guys keep telling me to find a set of those heads,,,,im tempted
If you're using the TW heads, I'll never believe any custom cam with equal idle/vac characteristics will make enough extra power to be worth the difference in price over one of the TF cams...
Never is a long time. If you've never tried a custom cam. You'll never know the difference.
After the experience I had with my first custom cam, I wouldn't go any other way. I've had three, with significantly different combos. Each exceeded my expectations. Worth my money.
Eh, to each is there own. Most engine builders with any common sense will tell a guy that the cam makes or breaks the engine as it is the brain of the operations. I took the custom cam recommendation route after the second time the machinists and the engine builder told me it was the only way to go with a high performance motor. When you put together a $5K or higher dollar motor the cost difference between a $275 - $300 off the shelf cam and a $350 custom ground cam to the overall project is a non-issue but the potential gains are definitely worth investigating. A person also has to understand that if the information given to the cam builder is critical to getting the cam that makes the combination work so filling out the long information form is crucial to getting the best cam for the combo that is being built.
When I sent the information to Ed Curtis the first time he emailed me back and said that the Comp Cam I was running was really good for the combo but I could expect a little more peak hp with his cam but the power curve would get broader. This means more area under the curve which is more power on tap through more of the RPM range than what I currently had. I opted to leave my combo alone at that time as I knew I was going to build a 331 that summer and would be selling the short block. The 331 has an Ed Curtis cam and it was well worth the extra $50 on that motor.
Darren
Yep for sure...
What not being noticed is I said TRICK FLOW heads with their cam... Those cams are matched to the heads and AFAIK NO ONE is offering the same grinds(yeah I know different suppliers offer the exact cams as a one fits all)... Maybe I'm all wet here but sure seems to me if TW can design a head, they surely can supply a good cam to be used with it...
Yeah I'm probably gonna hear a custom cam will produce 10 more Hp than a Stage 1 and then I pull out a TW Stage 2 and best your cam by 10 Hp, where does it end??? I have slightly over $1000 in cam and heads combined(cam was $139), and I'm happy...
You make a good point in that if you choose the correct cam then there should be no point in changing it unless the combination changes or the operating parameters. It all comes down to the combination and operating parameters which will vary from one person to the next.
The TW cams cannot cover this nor can the off the shelf Comps. If what you have is working and your happy with it then you choose well. I'm that guy that wants every bit of power out of the bones I put into a motor so I go custom.
Darren
All good points folks...I don't feel that my basically stock (with Ford parts, nonetheless) is in need of a custom cam...but if or when I ever put together a nice windsor with more cubes than factory, I'll go balls out with an ed curtis custom.
Seems a lot of guys use the TFS-1 cam with the combo I've got planned (just have to put it all together...waiting on warm weather, unheated shop, and my basp00get doesn't have an exterior door yadda yadda).
If I can make 275 horse, that's great, if I make 290, that's good too. But for that matter, it's all moot, it'll probably never see a dyno..I just want something that's reliable, fast, and has good stuff inside that is proven by thousands of other forum guys to work well.
And I've not even looked really at the power levels of a 5.0 with ported P's, Cobra (possibly Explorer) intake, bigger TB, BBK 1515 headers, and a full 2.5" exhaust with flowmasters. It will obviously have mass air, and has the smog pump removed and no egr.
Tom, I swapped out the stage 1 for a custom grind with new pushrods for proper geometry geometry and new springs/retainers to support the added lift. Same heads, intake and shortblock. Power is better all over, especially down low. If power had been exactly the same the increase in mileage alone would have been worth it.
The stage 1 cam is a great cam at a great price. I think it fits better with more converter than either you or I have or with a manual transmission though.
I've wondered how much more fun/how much power my Thunderbird could gain with a more aggressive cam or a custom cam. Problem is I really have no desire to tear the engine open to swap it out. I guess I'm too lazy and I sure as hell don't want to pay someone to do it for me.
With the cam I've got in the Thunderbird now the engine made 235 at the wheels with GT40Ps and a 65mm TB. It trapped 93 mph in the quarter. With the Edelbrock heads and a 70mm TB it's gone 98 mph in the quarter. Both times were on street tires. I still find it hard to believe that a head swap gained 50hp but both those runs were on days with similar conditions. Actually the run with Edelbrock heads was made on a warmer day (about 5* warmer). I keep wondering if the car would pick up even more with a different cam but again I'm too lazy to swap it out ;).
That's why I'm ditching the 2600 and going with a 3500 stall in the fresh AOD behind the 331...
I should mention I've got a T5, but I am going to put an AOD back in. I'd wondered if a 3500 stall would be too much. I was thinking a 3200 would be good, but if a 3500 would be better...
I've got 3.55 rear right now, would like to eventually get a 4.10 set in...but that's later on.
I hear ya. I get about 2800 out of mine and with the old stage 1 I think 3500 would have been a PERFECT fit.
You know the old saying about not fearing the gear? I think there should be another about stall speed. Almost EVERYONE wants to go lower than is needed.
THe 5r55S in my Mustang is a PERFECT example. Hell, most companies for aftermarket converters can't even list the correct stall speed from the STOCK converter.
I'm gonna buy a 2500 stall from you? Considering stock is 2800-3000 according to FORD (It's actually a nice piece - just gives up around 500 hp) I think I'll shop elsewhere.
As my car sits right now and with the couple more things I'd like to do, I fell 36-3800 would be a good fit.
WWWWWWWWHAT!!!??? Holy hell. Now how could they put that in a factory stock car and A) get acceptable city mileage and B) not have people complaining about the rubber-band feeling of the car outside of lockup? What does it engage lockup in 2nd gear onward? Heh
Either way the T-5 or the AOD will give up the ghost behind a healthy 351W unless you are gonna drop some coin on them and unless you can build that AOD yourself you might as well stuff a Tremec's 600 or T-56 behind it.
Just remember 302 parts in and on a 351 equals 302 power.
Darren
Stock redline is something like 6000 and that's all ECU limited. The internals will take a lot more. I have mine @ 6600 right now. Car really had no rubber band feeling in stock form. Variable cam timing has a bit to do with that I would imagine.
Hell, I don't have any rubber band feel in the Cougar..... In fact only time I did was when I had finished the motor the first time and thrown it back together while I still had the stock converter. I knew I was gonna need one, but had ZERO clue as to how much. Threw it together and drove it to get a half a clue.
BTW-- Trick Flows recommendations for stall speed are low too ;)
I've got a 2800 non-lockup PI Stallion and have no rubber band feeling from a start with low throttle.