I know some of you guys with Turbo Coupes have done the Teves II ABS to regular power brake conversion and I was wondering what you did to accomplish that. This is for my Mark VII. The system works fine but because of parts cost I want to replace it before something fails on it. The Mark VII has the same size brakes and configuration as an 87-88 Turbo Coupe except with 5 lug rotors. I think I should be able to use a 93 Mustang Cobra master cylinder and brake booster but I’m not sure what to do with the proportioning valve. I’m guessing the one designed for the Teves II system won’t work with the Mustang Cobra master cylinder and booster. Has anyone got around using an adjustable proportioning valve with this setup? Ideally I’d like the swap to be plug and play but it never seems to work out that way.
This wouldn't have anything to do with me saying the same thing the other day, would it? lol. How about Teves IV? I've had 2 cars with that system.
I'm actually doing this exact swap into my 88 Turbo Coupe on Friday.
I'm hoping to use the stock prop valve for the rear brakes. Once I'm done on Friday night if everything works out I'll go ahead and throw together a quick faq with everything needed.
Lou, I used a power brake setup from an 86 cougar, (booster master and proportioning block) works perfectly. I had to change a few fittings on the cars brake lines to make them work but it was a very easy swap. I have another complete setup if your interested in it.
Hmm interesting. I thought the the prop valve from a front disk/rear drum setup wouldn't work in a all disk setup. Do you think I could just re-use the stock prop valve? I have access to the 93 Cobra master and booster cheap so I wanted to use those if possible.
the first time I converted, I used the stock TC valve. I wouldnt go that route again... from what I remember the stock valve put too much power to the front wheels and not enough to the rear.
Gut the stock proportioning valve and install a manual proportioning valve on the line going to the rear brakes. Its easy to do and costs about $50-$60. Do a search on it as it has been brought up a few times.
Darren
I could do that and then play in a parking lot to figure it out. Too bad there wasn't a direct swap stock proportioning valve.
Can you just remove the stock PV if it's not being used and just go with the manual PV or will keeping the stock PV in the original location makes easier when you go to plumb everything together
I just makes it easier to plumb. I have it this way on both my cars and it works great. If you back the manual proportioning valve all the way out (CCW) that is maximum reduction to the rear brakes which on the Wilwood untis is 57%. Most people start with about five full turns in and go from there. What you are looking for is the front to lock up before the rear.
Darren