howdy, i just bought a 84 xr7 with 73k, and i'm having a few issuses with it, it has a tough time idling cold, however there is no misfire. also a lack of power on acceleration. if anyone could tell me how to set/check the ignition timing that would be great! thanks!
ive checked fuel pressure its at 39psi
tps is at .8v
pull the spout out and time it like any other ford car.
have you tried to pull codes yet? how do the spark plugs look?
where is the "spout" located? i think i might have a old code reader somewhere in the garage but never used it. what is the process to retrieve codes?
http://oldfuelinjection.com/?p=13
http://sbftech.com/index.php/topic,2471.0.html
two different codes procedure.
here I am pulling codes on my 87 bird with a multimeter.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9QSiS6wf7oU
there should be two videos. one shows me showing which wires to hook up. you only need a jumper and a volt meter. I find a paperclip works perfect for a jumper.
the spout can be in a couple different places. I am not sure on the turbo cars. on the 302, its right next to the distributor, on my crown vic it was next to the headlights harness.
It is right next to the DIZZY. Yank it and time the engine to 10* BTC. You need to do a min idle procedure to clear up the idle issue. Also change or rebuild the IAC MOTOR!
The yellow wire from the TFI ignition module on the dizzy goes through a one wire connector. That is the SPOUT wire. Unplug the connector.
In 87 they started using a jumper plug to disconnect the SPOUT, but in your case you have to unplug the connector.
Actually i think the wire is WHITE. But i am not 100% on this. If it is a 1984 the wire should be white. By the way there are several TSB'S on the timing procedure and octane bar for this vehicle.
thanks so much for the help!
since i just bought the car i did a oil change cause it was BLACK. i replaced the IAC vlave and the connector. i check the timing and it was right at 10 degrees. the idle is a bit better after but still stumbles/surges then dies. i took a quick look at of the spark plugs and it wasn't horrible but the electrode was worn down a bit on one side. i looked at the cap and rotor and they looked good also.
i didnt get any codes on my code reader
then your code reader doesn't work.
the check engine light is off, could there be something wrong with speed density meter?
the way i tried to scan it was, plugged my scanner into the big gray connect and the little gray plug, KOEO held the test button and nothing happens. is that correct?
just put new plugs and wires on,
i got the KOKR test to work and got codes 25,34,77,25
84 EVTM doesn't show a check engine light. Are you sure you have one?
Did you turn the ignition switch on?
found a PDF really helps to pull codes and use scanner.
https://www.equus.com/Content/Support/Manual/3145_FDCR_(E)_20NOV2002.pdf
25 knock sensor and 77 WOT (goose test). When you got the "10" code you were supposed to floor the gas pedal momentarily.
34 The EGR valve didn't move when it tried to test it. EGR solenoid bad, no vacuum to the solenoid, no vacuum from the solenoid to the EGR or the EGR valve is seized up.
You should try to get the KOEO working.
thanks again. found the vacuum line to the egr solenoid disconnected, egr holds vaccum. cleared codes with KOEO.
i also raised the timing to 12 degrees and it helped the idle problem but i still don't think it is the solution.
also replaced the cap and rotor. i going to let it cool down and see what happens when i start it back up
the car still runs like , i drove it and it dies when going to idle. i got no codes for KOEO. the car is very slow to accelerate and doesn't go over 4000rpms, is there away to check and make sure the turbo is working correctly.
im out of ideas!
koer test gave me codes 21(Cooling Temperature sensor out of specified
range or ECT out of range),25 ( Knock not sensed during Dynamic
Response Test)
anyone have a idea where to go from here?
check for good spark and compression.
With the new plugs gap them at 35 and install new wires. Once again you need to do a MIN idle setting. You also need to rebuild or replace the IAC as i have found out many many years ago they have to close completely. And the only way to do that is replace it with a new one or modify the one you have. Once again with a known good IAC set the MIN idle and follow the ford procedure to the T!! The codes you are getting are common. I always disconnect the Knock sensor and substitute a resistive load on the wires. BUT!!! You have to have a good working ECT sensor otherwise yiou will be chasing Balloons. Good luck to you
ill do a compression test today, could a bad ECT put the car in some kind of basic running mode?
i replaced the IAC and the connect because the insulation around the wires was falling apart.
I set the gap to .35 for the plugs.
what is the MIN idle setting?
Set plugs tighter for the turbo 4s .030" . Yes the engine coolant temp. sensor can fail .The ecm thinks it is cold and keeps enrichment(choke) on. The temp sensor for the gauge is separate from the one for the ecm. The minimum idle setting is as follows; warm engine,remove plug to idle air control. Adjust throttle stop/idle speed on throttle body to 550-750 rpm on tach. Plug idle air control back in. Have you adjusted the throttle position sensor?