I am going to try this adapter I had made to see if its a good fix for the sagging in the rear when using SN95 springs on our birds. Spacer right now is 1", so I will test fit and cut down as necessary till I reach the right ride height. Hopefully this will make the SN95 springs more appealing.
Pic....
http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t97/biggrgivens/sn95spacercopy_zpsed062c80.jpg
Stay tuned.
Good idea never knew they made the rear lower
Have you guys thought about the weld in adjustable perch that allows you to run coil over springs in the rear ?
I'm confused - I thought SN95 springs dropped the cars pretty evenly? Picture of the sagging?
Interesting. I have SN-95 springs in my back of my car with an altered (lowered) RLCA pick-up on the axle...and it's still not saggy. Been that way for almost 15 years.
Perhaps the front end is too high.
Not a bad idea, though. However it's not mandatory.
I'm curious because I picked up some SN95 springs. Losing 50lbs off the frontend with aluminum heads, and having subs in the back (without big heavy boxes though), might make my car appear to sag also, if this is indeed an issue.
Chalk me up with SN95 springs ('97 GT) and a level stance. But my junk has iron heads and a gutted trunk too..YMMV.
OP, if you want to bring the front down, try some springs up front from a 3.8 car, if you don't want to work with the rear. I'd just be afraid that stiffening the rear springs would make it rougher in the rear. (That's what SHE said) LOL
With my setup, if the rear gets any firmer, hitting a bump under hard throttle makes it a little squirmy. Of course, I do need an alignment...
I won't decide on anything until I quit changing things out. Since the car is always changing, who knows what will do what, or when. I'm thinking install them with my Cobra A-arms, new steering shaft, rack, etc, get the lighter intake installed, start mocking up LED headlights (heavier aluminum housings), etc, then decide what is needed for ride height adjustments. If anything, I would prefer the stock SN95 springs up front and something more firm for the rear to help support it. Hell, I haven't even seen a side-profile of the car since the frontend lightening, with stock springs. Well, iirc, replacement/different front springs a few years back, reused the rear springs. Or the other way around. Who knows now.
Stock turbo rear springs have a higher load rating than even the SN-95 convertible stuff. They're just harder to come by these days. I know the rear springs from my '84 XR-7 had a much higher load rating (without too much higher of a spring rate) compared to any of the SN-95 stuff I had on hand.
(The non-turbo rear springs may be similarly stout, but I don't have any of those sitting around any more)
If anyone has any of the stock TBird rear springs around
with tags intact, we can compare to some SN-95 stuff.
I don't know about regular SN95 springs, but the Bullitt springs I had on my 88 definitely would have sagged without the CHE adjustable LCA's
Do sorry to thread jack but I also and doing the sn95 set up and wondered I have an 83 bird with the 5.0 and a soon to be done t5 swap I just wanted to kno do I have to use v8 springs I'm pretty sure I do I just keep seeing people with v6 springs and I'm iffy about doing this thank you and again sorry to jack the thread just don't wanna start a new one for and overly discussed subject.
I used the same riser's on the bullits,with the che adjustable's. Had to bore a whole for the adjuster. I had the 95's on and the car handled like ass. Didn't like them at all.The bullits are ok except I ran out of adjustment on one side.
I have 03-04 cobra front springs, and bullitt rears with CHE adjustables. The adjusters are almost maxed, but the rear sits at least an inch higher due to fender rub issues. I need to swap my mark vii shafts and brakes to stang shafts and brakes, which will pull the rear tires in an inch or so and allow me to run it level.
Chris
I was just wondering why a spring needs to be basically SHIMMED to get the height needed. There are so many springs with different wire diameter and load rate available that is not needed. I have been cutting springs for years with no issues. It seems to me that installing a spring from a lighter car and lowering it that way is something i do not understand. What is needed is a spring that has heavier wire which increases load with a shorter stack. You normally never have to shim a spring once one is selected for the ride height and load you want to accomplish. Just me !!!
Bellow is a spring to lower my car and have a much higher rate. Basically this is the way i do it without spacing. Slight spacing is ok but in my view to much means the spring does not work for the combination. just saying!!
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c209/tfalconier/null_zps340d905d.jpg) (http://s28.photobucket.com/user/tfalconier/media/null_zps340d905d.jpg.html)
I installed air shocks on the rear of my 88 Cougar to eliminate the problem. That way I can fine tune my ride height. Down side is air shocks will loose air over time and will start sagging again. I have to re-inflate them about once a month.
x2, I had them on my 81 XR7, had to air them occasionally to keep her looking right.
Are the stock rear cougar springs constant rate or progressive??