found driver head that all seated valves, the rockers jingled litterally you could wobble them around.
on the pass side, the seated valve rockers enabled me to rotate the push rod like normal but no adverse play was shown.
i rotated the crank and the the wobbly rocker arm issues stayed on the driver head while all the passanger side head rocker arms were all snug and push rods all spun normally on seated valves.
what is the most likely probable fault here?
Jay you need to be more specific or post some video or photos. Please explain better you situation. Thanks
I am thinking you mean the lifters are not pumped up but just a GUESS. Please add more details
Sounds like the motor had no oil in it for a while and when they rolled it over to take the torque converter nuts off it collapsed the lifters and purged the rest of the oil out of the lifters.
Just an idea.
guys,
the pics are not available, the motor came apart so quickly there was not time.
basically what i said was the case, rockers were wobbly on the driver side head for only the valves that were seated.
i rotated the crank and the issues transfered to all the other remaining rockers on the drivers side head.
the issue was not present on the passanger side head.
engine did sit for a year or so.
machine shop assumed the lifters just were no longer pumped up as well but i have to ask, what are the odds the issue is only present on the driver head?
Is this a roller cam or flat tappet?
motor out of a 97 explorer, roller
Have you started it yet? Have you really checked the rockers when you adjusted them, Pretty stock motor right?, If so set at 15lb. run and then redo them. I know you got to pull the upper again thats what it is.
The rocker issue is more than likely a lifter issue. I would just run all new lifters. That should fix the problem.
SIMPLE the lifters are bled down. That is normal as the engine has to run to pump the lifters UP!!! The engine is being rebuilt so any issues should be addressed by the engine builder!!
this issue was found during the tear down.
i could not understand "why" this was only happening on the driver head, i concluded lifters bled down as well but what are the odds that all 8 on one side bled down and the other 8 did not.
machine shop and i just shrug it off as lifters bled down as well but thought i would ask,, i was actually thinking more a long the lines of a clogged oil galley on the drivers side block.
There are so many variables with these things, especially with mass produced engines. Custom, quality builds would have much more consistency across the motor. This would be easy to check by spinning the oil pump with the motor together and seeing how the oil flows out either side. I'd guess it's fine. I would also replace the lifters while it's apart. Bearings, rings, seals, and lifters at the bare minimum on a rebuild, if the bores in the cylinders and lifter holes are good.
+1
If you're rebuilding it don't worry. You'll find any issue besides the lifters (if there is one).
ok,,
well, confirmed valve guides are all perfect.
Springs are not giving enough seat presure, even though even over at SBF tech and other sites stating the GT heads dont mandate valve spring replacement.
moving forward with a big order tomorrow.
to date i have 590.00 in this and have not purchased the first engine component.
the explorer valve springs are marginal with the factory cam, HO cam is to much for them. Some people get lucky, some people get valve float barely over cruise RPM...
Bottom line here the block needs to be punched out anyway so that means a complete cleaning will be necessary. I personally never reuse valve springs no matter what. They are cheap and ford springs are notorious for getting week. (note valve springs have a normal life span of app 40 thousand miles on a performance engine) As far as the lifters go i always replace them. They now at this point are out of the engine and can be inspected and or take them apart to investigate the reason for them to be collapsed. Either way the builder will check them for PRELOAD and he will also have to check PUSH ROD LENGTH. I always change lifters on a build. And i am certain he will also recommend new ones as well. So carry on!!
he's not building the motor though,, i am,,
he's doing the line bore , cam jounal bore for needle bearing retrofit, and rod punch and head porting work.
he and i agree there really isnt any sense in boring the cylinders out,, more gain and money spend on reducing friction and head work is best bang for the buck.
he offered to press on my new pistons also.
i learned how and what to look for to set / check the crank endplay as well,, kinda interesting.
he did recommend bolt replacement for my studed & nut rods,, not sure there is a benefit for such low horse power.
I do have a queston though,, rather technical,, not sure anyone can answer but here goes....
will the harmonic balancer off an 88bird directly swap onto the ford explorer crank?
anyway, great news!! we broke the timing cover on the explorer trying to get it off and being very careful.
so,,, either we "risk" not having a spare or we "hope" the timing cover that is on my sons bird now comes off easy.