I was dropping off my car at a garage to have the brakes checked out and have a new e-brake cable installed when the cable clutch went out. I initially purchased an adjustable kit (quadrant, firewall adjuster - that doesn't provide much adjustability because of the lack of room with the master cylinder.
I see two basic types of cable clutches, 1) (the type I purchased originally) with a threaded end that appears to provide more adjustability at the throughout bearing arm and 2) with a ball/stud on the end with assumed to be no adjustability at the throughout bearing arm.
With my original cable setup I did have to purchase a spacer for the quadrant to tighten up the slack. I'm not sure how (if it can be) to adjust option #2 above. Would this be a safe option to go with? Can it be adjusted at the throughout bearing arm? It seems to be more readily available on-line.
Thanks in advance.
i use the adjustable cable (threaded end) with no issues.
I'm also using the adjustable cable.
I use the adjustable cable as well with no issues.
I'm using an oem style with the adjuster on the throw-out arm.
I used the oe one from mm, it didn't work with the quadrant that I had in. so I had to buy a new quadrant from mm. Not sure what brand was in it, came with the trans.
I have only had a factory cable break on me. I used the same adjustable cable in my Coupe for over 10 years and replaced it when I put the new 331 in the car a few months back just as a precaution. I get mine from Steeda just because the is the quadrant and firewall adjuster I use on both the cars.
Darren
I used a stock OEM from my 88 Mustang donor car with 240,000+ kms on it and a firewall adj .....still going strong.
There was a discussion awhile back on another forum (can't remember which one) and the general consensus was that the OEM with it's Teflon liner and a firewall adj was the hot ticket both on and off the street.
X2
I had bind issues with the adjustable. I replaced it with one from Maximum Motorsports, with a firewall adjuster and experienced a dramatic improvement in pedal effort.
The non-adjustable is ~8" longer than the adjustable, which eases the 180 degree turn from the firewall to the clutch fork, mimimizing the potential for bind. I found it easier to route the cable with the added length.
Bottom line is you need a cable with adjustibility . How you do it is optional. Hydraulic clutches are much better and auto adjust themselves. Cable clutches periodically nead adjusting till they take a set. Just saying!!
I'd like the hydraulic clutch setup available on the aftermarket, BUT, my funds for the Sport won't allow it.
I'm using the orileys $30 cable. I got about 15k out of the first one. the broken motor mount took out the outside cable sheath. I just threw in a new one without issue though. we will see how long the next one lasts.