Guy's,
Once again, I need your advice. Now I have the A/C on when I drive, along with the electric fan running while and even a little after (fan) I stop the car. So my Optima battery (only about a year old) is not getting a full charge, it's around 11 volts (while driving) with my little 65 amp. alternator. So, now I need to get either a 100 amp. alternator or maybe just be safe and get a 140 amp. alternator. Seems like they are all one wire, and what I need to ask is would the 100 amp. be enough or should I go with the 140 amp alternator. If I go with a 140 amp. then hopefully I can put a decent stereo in without any problems. Also, I am putting in electric windows, and locks. No use in having all these new accessories if I don't have the juice to use them. Thanks!
you can get a 130 amp from any parts store or junkyard that basically bolts in. just need yo grind down the alt braket a bit. look at a 90's taurus with the 3.0 v-6 I believe. coolcats.net has a good write up under 3g alt install.
agreed, and matters only get worse if you run your car a lot at night due to general lighting draws.
im actually surprised my 20th puts up with all the electronics i have as stock items.
however,,,,,,,,,,
in stock form, the alternator was/is sufficient for the load demands to include HVAC.
what you are saying is that all your stock items prevent your cars battery from charging but i dont think your Efan is stock.
arent those optima batteries gell cell or dry cell?
gell/dry cell have different enviromental risks then flooded cells with respect to heat alone, you cant really abuse them as much as flooded or VRLA batteries.
the only way to verify the efan is the cause is to bolt back on your clutch fan and see if things go back to normal.
If your not able to use a clamp on amp meter, find someone who has one and clamp around the alt output wire and let us know how much amps is being demaned from the alternator during the day with no lights, no radio, no extra stuff running.
Next do the same wtih all possible loads on to include the efan running (the inrush on the fan is a battery storage killer and the voltage reg on the alternator takes the first hit for the inrush.
typically when a motor starts up, it can draw 3 times its nameplate rating for as long as it takes to get the motor spining at the design speed.
just getting you thinking and all,
one other test that might be valuable,, and not really endorsed here but the way i do it , i feel is ok to do.
with the car running, remove the pos battery cable then clamp on the the alternator cable to see if its the car that is loading down the alternator or if its the battery.
you could also just use a meter to see if the voltage goes up as well.
if you find out your voltage went up then its likely your battery is the cause... and its the continuous load pulling down the alternator voltage.
if the voltage stays low then..................
~its likely your total load of your car is infact pulling down the alternator (gotta have the EFan running to determin this
~or its likely your voltage reg is going bad or has very short brushes.
~~~to check, set your meter to AC volts and see if you have any AC potential coming out.,, in effect you slightly boil your battery electrolyte if this is the case but barely noticeable if your running a "barely broken" voltage reg.
shut off the car then reconnect the battery.. dont reconnect the battery with the car running.
have a friend read this incase your not the electrical guy, comment back with comments or results. I hate the battery game because when on thing breaks it usually ends up meaning you should replace the alternator and batt as a matched set to prevent other grimlins from poping back up.
I would suggest that you change out the charging wire from the back of the alternator to the starter solenoid. The factory one was never meant to handle the demands you are currently putting on it. Disconnect the existing wire(s) from the back of the alternator and run a new, temporary 8 gauge wire from the back of the alternator over to the starter solenoid and see what happens. I did this on my buddy's 69 Mustang because we added a Taurus fan and he was having charging issues, this cured the problem. I installed the 8 ga wire permanently with an 80 fuse as close to the starter relay as I could. The reason for the fuse is the same as the fusible links on our cars.
Basically just see if the single 8 ga solves your problem. If not then go the 3G alternator route and use a 4 ga wire from the back of the alternator over to the starter solenoid and fuse it.
Darren
to be honest, i would have your fuse your mentioning at the alternator end.
Good morning gents.,
The Optima is a gell cell battery. Being just about every thing I have done to my car this last year was replaced with new parts, I want to do the same with these electrical parts as well. I am pretty sure the problem is the efan drawing so much electricity. The A/C compressor is also original and is most likely pulling a lot of electricity also. I just filled it with freon and it is working well, so when it dies I will put in a new A/C set up. The efan is an upgrade from stock and my responsibility is to give the power it needs to function correctly. So, 100 - 140 amp. alternator, a voltage regulator (being mine it 27 years old) and a 4 ga. wire with fuse should be a good setup. The reason I am doing it this way is for reliability. I will be moving about 130 miles from here, and I will be driving back and forth at least once a month. Great write up guys! Thanks!
86cougar,
Sounds like you have a plan.
jcassity,
As for the fuse location I disagree. In a crash the engine typically stops running so the alternator no longer has output so moving the fuse as close to the starter solenoid reduces the length of wire that is still energized by the battery which IMO is safer. This is also the stock location of the fusible links. I am open to reasons why it would be better at the alternator but I just don't see it. Then again you could always install two fuses and call it a day.
Darren
86cougar,
Sounds like you have a plan.
This is where I was used to getting slammed. Yep, a plan...my car....my plan outlined by helpful, knowledgeable guys willing to assist in this plan. No name calling, or demands to be met. Nice! I bet this plan works out very well also! Now, I can go work on my car at my own pace, with my own tools and enjoy my myself......Cool! Thanks guys!!
good point on the fuse,
my line of thinking is to fuse as close as possible to the item that is generating the amperage, in dc and low voltage, there are many reasons this is a benefit but thats a different topic. The primary benefit is to protect the voltage regulator as close to the regulator as possible , otherwise there is additional length of wire a fault would have to travel down before it finally gets in touch with its inteneded over current protection.
i do see your point though
Just so you know that 3G alternator is internally regulated so you ditch the external one in the car. This is a pretty good thread on another site dealing with non-EFI cars but it has a link to the one for EFI cars on the Corral:
http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthread.php?t=76480
I know lots of guys here have done it as well so searching here should turn up some other threads on the topic.
Darren
Nice article. I see that some vendors have "large case" G3 alternators are they different from the rest? I can get a G3 from the local shops here but I need to find one with over 100 amp.. They also have them with lifetime warranty. Thanks!
I had to do some homework finding out who locally has what I need. The parts locators on line would not let me look for a G3 alternator, I had to look up different years, and cars and amperage then look at the picture to see if it matched what I have. I finally ended up with exactly the same one that "Corral" used on their article. 130 amperage is the most I could find, but that should be fine. Should be very little modification for installation also. I bought the 130 amp., "new" not re-manufactured, with a lifetime warranty. I "Thank You" gentlemen for your assistance!
I have a 130 amp 3G in both of my cars with Mark VIII fans, 500+ watts of stereo, MSD ignitions, A/C, and loads of other after market stuff that eats power. No issues what so ever with having enough juice.
Darren
i wanted to say this earlier and forgot.
i assume you got your AC working,,,,,the other thread said you had no freon as confirmed by post 2 & 3,,,,, but,,,,,,,,,,,,
pls keep in mind that if the system is over charged, you may experience too much load on the engine.,, it may simulate alternator issues.
if you select AC and your compressor runs constantly, there is likely too much
if you smash the gas pedal to WOT, you should feel warm(er) air coming into the vents , this is confirming you WOT switch is shutting off the compressor during these high gas pedal / passing gear situations and engine demands.
just fyi, to be honest if they were not qualified to determine the system had charge in the first place, i would recommend you have them provide you with the procedure they used to charge your system, tell you how much vac and how many lbs of charge they put in.
eventually this could / will / should lead to slightly higher engine running temps due to the additional load.
you have to be careful bringing these cars to shops today, most of the techs working on them are not qualified to work on them or they dont have the tech docs on line or in paper form to reference. A lot has changed in the world of air conditioning with respect to the transition from R12,, and i mean a lot!!!!
the procedure for charging has basically remained relatively the same but there isnt really a standardized LBS of vac to pull or a standardized LBS of charge to add so the tech could have been guessing.
This is my opinion on what appears to be a proper 1980's R12 system.
your car is at idle with ac on
your compressor engages and stays that way for about 8 to 10 seconds then cuts off fo about the same amount of time.
im sure you have noticed if it cuts off and on or not.
if it runs constant with AC selected which isnt a good thing, im sure you would have mentioned that by now,,
i would also recommend you inspect your large conductors going into your ignition switch as well while you are making your car better.
I personally removed my son's Efan because i didnt really see a mechanical gain in having it, the oem fan clutch is very sufficient and provides no additional alternator load to run it.
I think Efans are over rated, the path of least resistance is to run the oem fan clutch.
do you have the Efan set up to a temp probe to determine its relay driven on of state or is is wired differently?
The placement of the temp prob can also cause it to run too often preventing your battery from replenishing and thus causing your alternator to see the discharged battery as more of a constant load than it use to be.
under nominal conditions, your battery would be constantly fully charged and your alternator would typically only be loaded down with approx 40A of demand with every single thing you can think of turned on to include full heat blower motor and hitting a power trunk switch.
if it were me,, i wouldnt even do an Efan, there really isnt a gain in it.
the smaller fan clutch load you take off the engine is quickly replaced by greater additional "electrical load friction" put on the alternator.
geometrically speaking, since the alternator is wayyyyyyyyyyyyy off to the side of the center line of all the rotating parts, "our" alternators actually load down our engines more with "less" load than the 4.6L with the alternator situation more in the center of the belt arrangement. The 4.6L alternator location allows the engine to have more mechanical leverage than if the alternator were way off to the side thus making best use of the max ampacity capability of the alternator especially at lower speeds.
since your oem fan clutch is close to the centerline of your crank geometrically speaking, its actually more efficient and offers less engine load.
this topic was debated a three or four years ago, became an interesting thread.
Wow! That's a lot of information! I was with Jimmi when he set the A/C. He was talking about barometric pressure and something about 220 on his gauge and instead of 2 1/4 lbs. he only put 2 lbs. Right now the temp. probe is in the radiator fins. I do know that my 27 year old A/C compressor is probably about to go. I took the car over to the place I bought my battery and the guy hook up the battery to his diagnostic equipment and it was reading at right around 11 volts with the car running and A/C on. Jimmi also told me he set the fan to run any time the A/C is on. Being this is Arizona and it's getting in the 90's, that means it will be running during the time I drive it and after I shut it of for a short time. Most of my driving is stop and go here in town. my next project after I install the alternator is to put in my new set of gauges so I know what's really going on under the hood. I hate not knowing! I have a cheap set in the car now, but they lie. When my A/C goes, I really don't want to put a generic stock unit in, I would like a nice system put in. I will check Vintage air and see what I can find.
the stock compressors are fabulous in design with respect to all things mechanical and electrical... your choice though to go vintage air.
I think i just figured out you platform is a TC, those came with 85A alternators if i recall correctly.. so excuse my previous math, you should be all set since ill bet your "newer" efan may actually be a little more efficient.,, cant speak to that totally.
im skeptical about your statement that he set the efan up to run anytime the AC is on.
just so you know, 11v is not charge
11v is discharge
perhaps if there was an hvac wiring mod associated with the above statement and what the sentence you typed means "the efan runs all the time when AC is selected", you may have just found your problem. its really hard on a car to run city traffic when your rpm doesnt get high enough to offset the load.
im hoping your not slightly over charged because with the ambient outside temperature, that drastically effects proper charge. The car new off the factory floor never took 2LBs of R12. With R134 if properly converted on your car, you should be approx 15% less than R12. 220 is a bit much,, thinking your boggin down the engine with a tight ass compressor clutch and thats something you can determine by just not running the ac and see if your battery voltage eventually climbs back up.
If your existing platform is a TC, not sure an Efan is going to harm the existing alternator size especially since your oem fan was a dual fan.
good luck,, think it through, you may have an electrical charging problem elsewhere, that or high reistance connection along the charging path.
a little too much airconditioning charge could be tolerated but too much and the compressor can and might go slower than your belt , belt wears then you throw a belt.
i may have misspoke on your platform,,, anyhoo,,
did you ever get that battery relocated? and your fuse link quesitons or concerns resolved?
something must've happened here recently cause last fall (ish) sometime you said the car didnt have electrical issues for the past 26 years.
Wow, again lots of good info.. I think Jimmi said 220 was top and that he only put in 200.
"im skeptical about your statement that he set the efan up to run anytime the AC is on".
I'm pretty sure Jimmi said that the fan would run when the A/C was turned on and it would over ride the cut off switch.
"just so you know, 11v is not charge
11v is discharge"
That's exactly why I went and bought a 130 amp. alternator. It is installed all I'm waiting for is the battery to charge back up. The wires color scheme must be universal on alternators. I bought a new plug to go with my alternator and the wire colors matched up.
Battery is still in the front. I never had electrical problems for the last 7-8 years that I have owned it. Oh, my car is not a Turbo Coupe, it is a 5.0 base Cougar.
umm,, ok,
well that makes no sense, he should not have had to modify anything on the electrical side so im going to wish you the best, i hope you have time later to fix what is not correctly fixed now... if i read you correctly.
just giving you a news flash, you heard it here first,, LOL.
atleast you got nice cool ac for the hot weather down there.
Jcassity,
This is what I know. The alternator was not charging the battery, but it was before we switch engine, computer ect.. When I took it to the place I bought the battery from they showed me that it was only at 11 volts and was discharging the battery when I drove it. I figured it was the efan because that was the only accessory added to the car and it was running when I stopped the car for a couple of minutes (again discharging the battery). If I understood you right, you said that the alternator should handle the efan and all my accessories just fine. By that time I had already bought the 3G alternator and I installed it and to be honest I glad I made the upgrade. I charged the battery to 12.0 volts, turned the key to accessories and the volts stayed about the same, then I started the car and from that point the battery started to discharge. So, the A/C is working fine, it's just my alternator is not charging the battery and Jimmi will be over to trouble shoot it tomorrow. Now that should make more sense.
if your not running at 12.5+ volts, your discharging...
get a $3 volt meter from harbor freight. it will go a long ways. mine charges at 14 at idle.
if you pull your power cable off while the car is running, does it die? if so, your alt isn't working.
dd
ff
Tom,
Thanks for chiming in. Jimmi already warned me 2 or 3 times about this. So, I have not and will not do it. Just knowing it can kill the alternator and electrical is enough for me, not to mention an exploding battery. I was thinking that maybe a fuse blew on a cable to my battery, Jimmi had me check for voltage on the plug and I had the same voltage on the yellow wire and blk/orange wire (but then they are spliced together). The stator wire is connected to the alternator as instructed as well. Problem is I'm not getting any voltage from the gr/red wire.
Tom, don't yell at us. There is a possibility, when you can disconnect the battery while the engine is running.
1) He has Optima battery, which is hermetically closed gel cell battery. It is closed, it doesn't have vents, so any hydrogen can easily go out. And you can do it even with your standard battery, because it doesn't produce any hydrogen, when the volatage is lower, that aprox. 14,5V. He has 11V. That's totally safe value.
2) As you mentioned in your last link, battery works as a load for charging system. You can turn on all the lamps and other stuff to load the charging system. Our 65A alts are so weak, that when the engine is in idle and you turn on the high beams, it doesn't charge the battery at all (it may even discharge it). In this case (under the load) you can momentarily disconnect the battery without any risks.
In the case you want to do this test, disconnect only the negative terminal.
The last thing I have to say is, that you should properly check your battery voltage prior this test.
well, I hope noone ever has a bad/intermittent battery clamp or jump starts a car with a dead battery. cars must explode left and right every time these things happen.
theoretically, a battery should only explode in a dangerous over voltage situation. this is what causes them to vent hydrogen.
I don't think I have a problem with my battery. I can charge it up to about 12 volts then the charge slows down and it take time from there on to increase the battery voltage, but that is charging it at 2 amps.. Like I said after reading the article from the "Corral" installing a 3G alternator was a good upgrade. I sure we will find the problem and resolve this issue. Thanks!
I a
yy
Acc
wow,everything is going so nicely on this thread (22 posts) until Mr. Renzo steps in,Now we have to go thru all this BS AGAIN!!!!!
Sor
Tom, please, stop editing your posts. It's useless. I'd like to know your opinion and not "jj".
[quote
Tom that is all fine and dandy,but why can't you just leave it at that .If the man decides to ignore your advice,so be it.
why do you feel the need to reply with post after shaging post,to get your point across..............I just don't get you!!!!
Tom,
I don't take everybody's advice. I'm pretty sure we are all big boys here and can all make our own decisions. I heard you the first time and I agreed with you. The links you put up spoke for themselves, now let it go. When I was working on that 202,000 mile engine you once said that it was time to give it up and get it rebuilt. I still worked on it for months in 105-110 degree heat, but I heard you. Finally when I took the EEC and opened it I realized it was fried. That was when I decided to hire Jimmi and let him put in a new engine and have my transmission rebuilt. I don't have a hoist, lift, or cherry picker nor can I rebuild a transmission. Thinking I could rebuild a transmission over this forum would be insane. I'm sure everyone here remembers the problems I had on the electrical. I learned a lot working on my car in the heat and if I had chosen not to, I wouldn't have learned what I know now. When I was finally done, I did take your advice and got rid of the old engine. It might seem strange to most if not all of you, but actually this problem has got me pretty excited! When I first got the car back it ran really fast a couple times...what I mean is it scared me. Of course the next day I had to charge it up again. Now that I have upgraded the alternator, (and put in the TC 3.45 axle) all I have to do is find the problem in the wiring. Now I sit here and wonder how it will run when the car has the electrical system working right? When I am discharging the battery from the time I start it, that's BIG and should make quite a difference when it's right. Two sides to every coin.
You should have this when the ignition switch is in run. This is needed for the regulator to turn on the alternator field current.
If the car is or was originally a 2.3 turbo, it comes directly from the ignition switch.
Otherwise it comes through the "alternator warning light" on instrument cluster. If you put the ignition switch in RUN, and don't start the engine, the light should be on.
Is it?
If the cluster is not stock and you don't have the light, you have to jumper the two wires that went to the light together.
There should be a Gray/Yellow Stripe wire from the ignition switch and the Light Green/Red Stripe wire in the original cluster harness.
thats a good point,, does the sticky on our 3g upgrade in the "General section ~greateshiznits" match the one on corral?
we spent a lot of time making that be easy as pie and thus far there is some positve feedback on how easy it was, there are comments made to improve the information which i will do in the next week or two. i wanted to cycle this drawing around for several users.
im interested to see if you notice something different with your 5.0 3g swap in.
is there another way to add/remove battery load for troubleshooting purposes?
i think we can all learn from this subject because good points on safety but yet even with my flooded battery, sometimes i want to know more information and am forced to isolate circuits.
sorry 86~ hijack over.
Hijack away! You may have hit the problem! I remember the gray/yellow wire giving us problems in the radio department under the dash.
Got it wont do it again thanks.
You should check your battery voltage first. Then you should check the voltage at the alternator output. If there is no difference and you checked the alternator field regulator, you can do some other tests. I hope the accessory belt isn't slipping.
I wrote the exact procedure for disconnecting the battery in the post above. It's necessary to do it after the voltage check. If the voltage is low (less than 12V), there is no risk of explosion, because the battery isn't "boiling". You should try it with all possible accessory on, but the high beams are enough.
And as Haystack mentioned earlier, this is the same, as jump starting with jumper wires.
I have an "86" base Cougar w/5.0 engine.The cluster is original for now. I hooked up the battery and turned on the key and no "alternator warning light", I also started the car and no "alternator warning light" I also noticed that when I got the car back the back light for the speedometer stays on draining the battery. I'm going to take the instrument cluster out and check it for burnt bulbs. I found one last time and the bulb had melted.
The voltage is at 10.97 with the car running the alternator was putting out 10.77 volts. That sure doesn't seem right.
Jay your in box is full.
Now I'm REALLY being hijacked!
lol,, yeah i got the VW stuff tom
86,~ that depends ,,does sound odd, did you verify your 3g wiring to the diagram here?
Jcassity,
Thanks! I just took a look at the schematic you posted and it is exactly like I have my alternator wired. The differences are that I still need the 6 ga. wire (I'm using the stock wire for now) and like I said in an earlier post I'm not getting the AMP. light to light up for me. I also took a reading at the alternator and the out put voltage was only 10.77 volts. My buddy will be coming over and we will hit this issue hard. If necessary I will take this alternator back and have them check it.
If you don't have the ignition switch voltage on the LG/R wire to the "I" terminal of the built-in regulator, this is your problem.
It was also the problem with your old alternator.
I should have said earlier to check for the voltage with the ignition in RUN and the connector UNPLUGGED from the Alt Reg.
The Alt warning light has a resister in parallel so the Alt will still work if the bulb is burned out.
The same section of the ignition switch feeds the turn signal flasher. Do the turn signals work?
It also feeds the cluster IVR. Does the gas gauge work?
With everything hooked up and the engine running, see if you can rig up a way to momentarlly jumper 12 volts to the LG/R wire at the "I" terminal of the REG to cause the Alt to "turn on".
Once the Alt has an output on the S (stator output) of the alt to the "S" terminal of the Reg it will keep the Alt. "turned on".
Trial and error is always expensive
Wiring issue if memory serves me i think the alt lamp is bridged with a 500 OHM resistor for lamp out conditions. Just a thought!!
Was the alternator FULL FIELDED??? If not WHY???
Battery on charge lug and A terminal (constant from solenoid) NEEDS TO BE CHECKED
S BRIDGED TO S NEEDS TO BE CHECKED
Key lamp charge indicator to I NEEDS TO BE CHECKED (is charge lamp lit with ignition on and engine not running)
Good belt and all should be GOOD IN THE WORLD OF CHARGING SYSTEMS. If 13.9-14.8 Volts is present at the battery with engine running!!!
If not one of the above things is not correct. CHECK IT AGAIN!!!
1 304 772 3411
Another place to check the LG/R wire:
Connector C403--LH front fender apr0n below the washer reservoir.
Simple way to trace it is with a trace Tone and probe!!
Did you ground the I lead at the ALT to check Continuity???? Alt light lit when keyed??
Did you check the I lead with a test light to ground???? Key it and see if the test light lights. If good it will be DIM
Connect an old fashioned test light from ground to the I LEAD and key the car. Does the ALT LIGHT COME ON??? Again it will be DIM
You have to check this stuff out or you will be chasing balloons AGAIN!!!
904 GR/R C403 out on 904 LG/R slight color change through connector.
Trace tone will pin point in 2 seconds if you have an open.
Simple test if you have constant battery on the charge lug and the regulator A punching and the 2 S lugs connected together do this
Connect an old fashioned test light or a bulb and socket like an 1156 and hook one lead to the cars PLUS SIDE OF THE BATTERY. Then connect the other side to the I terminal of the regulator. The light should come on. Then start the engine and the light should go off. If it does go off the battery voltage will clime to 13.9-14.8. This will tell you the alt and regulator is OK. And if it works it will verify your charge indicator lead and alt light is the issue. Did you check fuses that feed the CHARGE LIGHT??? Did you check the BULB IN THE DASH??? It gets key battery through the ignition switch.
My buddy is finally coming over to help me out today. I have three print out of schematics that I got here on this forum so that he knows how I want the alternator set up. Right now I am only lacking the 4 ga. red wire. Tom, a lot of those questions you asked me have already been answered, so please go back and read the post. After we finish working on the car, I will get back with you guy's and let you know what I have found. Thanks!
OK if all these answers have been addressed THEN WHY IS YOUR ALTERNATOR STILL NOT CHARGING???
I am willing to bet you did not check a thing any of us posted. Forget me!!! SOFT TOUCH gave you all you need as well as myself to fix this did you do what he suggested???
Your Quote 86
I have three print out of schematics that I got here on this forum so that he knows how I want the alternator set up.
And just how do you want this alternator set up??? Having it CHARGE MIGHT BE A GOOD WAY!!!
Keep chasing BALLOONS i gave you and others as well enough info to fix this. And here we are at post 57 no further along than the original post. Maybe it is me
I Give UP !!
Tom, your just not worth answering. Also, do me a favor and don't bother chiming in on ANY of my posts. Thanks!
Hey guys, I know it won't surprise you, because it didn't surprise me...it was a new, not rebuilt alternator with a lifetime warranty and of course it was bad. I have a rebuilt 3g alternator in my car and it is charging fine. I have the system set up like the schematic jcassity posted. Thanks!
You Bet
humm, what color is that kettle,,:rollin:
Jcassity,
Many of these good people have asked the moderators to step up and do their job and the answer you gave was for us to either turn the other cheek or fend for ourselves. Personally, I think it's obvious why this forum is going down hill. If you choose to side with the problem.
NOPE this forum is for people that actually need HELP and people go out of there way to help.
I think Jay is siding with the fact that people who give good and factual info are ignored then made out to be BAD GUYS. Then the same people that ignore that info SCREAM FOUL. Several of us posted factual trouble shooting procedures for your ALT issue as well as your AC dilemma. As usual it was ignored and you are screaming for VENGEANCE.
Just for the record the chances of a twin engine plane loosing both engines at the same time is 4 MILLION TO ONE!!!
Both alternators were bad???
naw 86,
you your misreadng me
im glad your charging issue is fixed though, having a partially good alternator can really start you to pulling your hair out!!!
keep in mind when jump starting someone elses car..........(random point)
always hook up the cables to thier car last
always hook up the pos cable on "thier car" then the negative cable.
reason== let the sparks happen on thier car and not yours.
I know you've probably jumped yours in the recent past , just thinking out loud here.
Tom, Are you the guy in that big Napa barrel?
The problem with Tom Renzo is that he has no diplomacy skills. Diplomacy skills, however aren't what makes people like Tom useful or helpful. Once you learn how to talk to him, it's not a problem. He has a lot to offer, but he's not really for novices. Think of Tom as advanced tech support.
FOE I thank you and i am toning down Chuck actually made me think and also TOM. I really tried to help 86 with all my heart. But i guess my tolerance level has to improve and i will do that. Thanks and i will work on that from now on Thanks
NOW I HAVE SOME NEAT PHOTOS OF THE FUEL RAILS I REPAIRED ON THE MUSTANG HANG TIGHT GUYS!!!
There are a lot of guy's here who seem to know even more than Tom, and they are patient and helpful. I can see why he has been banned from other forums. I also know that he means well. I just consider him the paparazzi of this forum.
:punchballs::rollin:
now thats funny right there i tell ya:bowdown:
Jay i take PHOTOS NOW OF CELEBRITIES!!! No I DO NOT> DO I ???? DAM IT !!!
lol. That's confusion at it's best! Have to admit, I was a little confused about the paparazzi statement myself. What makes this even funnier is the fact that Tom's picture taking skills were in question on another thread! By the way Tom, I have never had any issues with your pics............I haven't seen your celebrity photos tho..............
Just a JOKE CHROME. I did not get the connection myself!! I made a pact with myself no more busting stones that is a loosing proposition. I take horrible photos. Actually the Camera i have is like so old and out dated my kids laugh at me with it. The kids have better cameras in there PHONES!! I actually take a lot of photos of things i make and modify. It is like a s book of car fixes you might say. In the shop we PHOTO just about every car that comes in. In the body shop it is MANDATORY. People always say that scratches and dents not related to the crash were not there before the car came in. This is common practice in most shops today!!
My dad always called me a DESTAGRAVA. That is an old Italian saying!!
Tom, you probably take the most pictures on this forum. I was just a dumb joke.
I know it was i did not take it any other way!! Didn't corss my mind as anything else than a joke. Thanks
Not so funny when u said it, kind of a head scratcher. However, Tom's reply was hilarious!
Tom posted: "I made a pact with myself no more busting stones that is a loosing proposition".
You said this before. So, time will tell.
I knew I had a bad alternator when I tested it and it was only putting out about the same as the battery (also many posts ago). After my 260 mile trip the replacement alternator is still working just fine. Let's not beat this dead horse any more than we have already.
Today is my birthday and that means two things. I made a pact to be Nicer and to turn 65 is well bad enough but the government gives me loads of cash every month. I cant believe i am now on MEDICARE and collecting money from big brother. Time does have a way of moving on.
Glad you alt is up and running. NEXT!!!!
you earned it,, someday i will to.
Until then, let the young bucks carry your load (medicare) and dont worry about it.
YUP this MEDICARE IS EXPENSIVE. This FREE health care is MIGHTY EXPENSIVE. More so than the plan i had with AETNA.
It's not like it isn't every red cent you've paid in since whenever; It's your money, they're just giving it back now.
Nice off topic :beatyoass:.
BTW, did he find the problem? I'm a bit lost.
Yes. He did. about 2 pages back.
LOL! Yep the car is running great! I guess we are talking about Medicare now? I'm too young for that yet. I've been retired for a year as of May 1st. I retired the day after my 55th birthday. The company I worked for gives me almost the same insurance plan as when I was working for about what my prescriptions cost (very little). Yes, we older guys did pay for it all those years, but I feel for the younger guys on this forum! They will pay for it as well, and may never get a good medical plan. Pension plans are already pretty much a thing of the past so who know if or how they will ever get to retire....sucks! Back to talking about cars.... I took a 260 mile trip and my car got 27.61 mpg and that's with a full load on the way down.
you win~!
I'll never see such benefits but you certainly have earned it so enjoy!
glad to see your making time to keep your coug on the road and enjoy it.
Jay i think this country will have THE MOST EXPENSIVE FREE HEALTH CARE PROGRAM ON THE PLANET!!!