While at Walmart today, I decided to buy a couple oil filters...Purolators in this case. While I usually know what one to buy, I was lost on numbers today, so I consulted the "Book". Was somewhat shocked to see the Ford vehicle list now begins at 1994!! It was still OK to pick the filter because the Mrs. reminded me that a '97 Taurus I work on has the same filter (as I had told her in the past), whew. And Ford continued the 5.0 engine on their pickups, so you can check those for later years after 1988.
JR
Motorcraft FL-1A is the only number you need to know for a 5.0 oil filter.
I went to O'reilly Auto Parts and they had an electronic gizmo set up and the same thing happened to me. Being I was in a parts store, I just told the guy at the counter what I needed and he had to look it up (more work for them). As long as they keep making parts for my car, I'm good.
Mountaineers (and Explorers) take a different filter....but yes, FL1A is one of many things I will never forget. I can think being somewhat autistic for that...phone numbers, names, dates, and people's birthdays I can remember very well.
Anyway, yes, most places don't worry about stuff that's older than 10-12 years or so. Sucks.
FRAM is a PH8A and the short filter is a PH16 OR PH43
FL-820S
I know it well. ;)
Fram is a shaging joke, and you being a mechanic by trade should know much better than to even mention them.
;)
Yes sir, as do I
(Off topic, what year Mounty is yours? I've a '97, but when I'm done, it's going to look like a '98+....)
302
No one said i use FRAM because i dont.
I listed the numbers as a cross over.
Seems like my feelings about attitudes are correct.
I mentioned a bunch of numbers to help cross reference and you go off the deep end.
Anyone that knows FORDS knows a Number ONE filter is or was there primary FILTER. I use the FL1 on GM conversions and remote filters. I stock cases of them.
But it just might be a good idea to find out what the OE uses and who makes the filters!!! You might be shocked to find out how many dealers are selling OE FILTERS that are fram
Just for the record as an information issue NAPA FILTERS ARE MADE BY WIX
I like BALDWIN and WIX.
Motorcraft is a PURIOLATOR
I dont know if the manufacturers changed vendors recently BUT SUBARU IS A FRAM
NOTE i have never personally seen a FRAM filter FAIL. I did see a PH16 spew out glue in a VOLVO engine years back. But there are MILLIONS of cars and trucks that use FRAM. Not my choice.
Mine is a '98. Still soldiering on at 156K+ although it's starting to need a lot of stuff and, of course, there's more body rot than I care to have. Thinking about getting something else.
And you probably won't see one fail... I used them on the old '93 Grand Marquis cause they came with some oil change specials I bought, no issues at all... A friend still has that car and it's approaching 200K mi, runs almost like new...
One filter I'll no longer use is a Purolator Classic, had engine knock in a 26K mi 4.6 at every cold start, never did so prior or since using the Pure One or Motorcraft...
The VOLVO issue was investigated by a FRAM REP. The car was not damaged because of the GLUE. It all came out when i removed the filter. It was like a long string of excessive glue. Fram corrected the over glue issue years ago. The rep sent me 4 cases of PH16 Filters i used them all up. As i said i never seen one fail. And millions of Fram filters roam out highways. Purolator filters had a restriction issue years ago but corrected it by adding more pleats. So i do agree with 50 on that issue Like i said i like Baldwin and NAPA which is a WIX. Basically there is only a few filter companies and they build for several different name brands. That is another reason i do not have dip sticks in my performance engines!! Just saying!!
This is seriously the only thread on the engine board with new posts?
50 i am with you on the classic. That filter was very restrictive. And not a very good design. The valve was also not a very good design as it worked like . I found a high restrictive issues with those early filters. Once again millions of FRAM filters roam the roads of this planet with no issues.
First off, I didn;t go off the deep end, far from it, in fact.
Secondly, I personally have seen a Fram burst, albeit on a Ford 3000 SU tractor.
Attitude? You've little room to speak of that.
I use Motorcraft on my Fords, Delco on the Chevy stuff. I know that Purolator makes filters branded Motorcraft, not sure who does Delco stuff, but if you cut one open, you can sure tell it ain't Fram.
And if a dealer uses Fram filters, I'd sure as hell stop going there.
And, check the first 23 seconds of this video. (http://"http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XRRgw4B7R-I")
And THIS (http://"http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T1KGivymNYE").
And THIS (http://"http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YIcFgjEikUY"), too.
My primary ride is a GM product and at the dealer (and on all the shelves now, unfortunately) they use AC Delco that start with and E- before the filter number. This represents E-core design and to me looks cheap as hell!!
Fram is a shaging joke, and you being a mechanic by trade should know much better than to even mention them.
I do know better ONCE AGAIN ALLIED SIGNAL STANDS BEHIND THERE PRODUCTS. I have had numerous sales men show us the inside of there filters and compare the differences. They all say there filters are the best. Also many OE filters are fram marked with names like SUBARU. So how is one to know which ones are made by which company. Also some claim oil and Filter changes at 12000 or more and on a yearly basis. This is another reason to change oil and filters at 3 months and or 3000 miles as we both agree on. With that no worries 302
BUT once again there are millions of FRAM filters sold and in service all over the world. Who am i to judge i just go with what i know or have experienced.
Wow, last thing I wanted to see by starting this thread--was a war of words between who helped me. I did not mention FRAM because I have used those filters in both Fords for eons---maybe +15 years (Please no mockery!!). The two Fords---the '88 T-Bird and the '89 Towncar are both still healthy and active. From all the flack I have read here and elsewhere about Fram, I began to look at other filters when I could. It so happens that Fram is widely sold here and also prominent at Walmart. So....I have the Fram numbers in my wallet for total of 3 Fords---which I also maintain---a Subaru and a Taurus. What began my comment --- Walmart is indeed a handy place to pick stuff, like this, up--when I go there---and I was surprised to see the '80s dropped out from the listings.
Fram annoys me because they have a "grip" material around the base which interferes with tools (a filter socket) I now use. Since I had cut back filter change intervals, the filters are more of a struggle to loosen---they become frozen. I recently bought a set of those filter sockets because the Subaru filter is practically inaccessible by hand or slip wrench----you have to turn it off with a ratchet and filter base socket. This being said--I was interested in a filter which has no grip material on it. As far as oil change intervals, I will moderate my stance and make more changes on the old cars--even though they are driven less these days. The T-Bird sees maybe a 100 miles a month because there are 2 of us and 3 vehicles we can use. Since I am now old (just applied for SS), my arm strength cannot do battle with stubborn filters --my elbow pays for it a couple days later. I also dread the thought of having to ram a screwdriver through a full filter to get it off.
Actually that grip material is great and you do not need a filter wrench at all. Look at the sides of a FRAM filter and you will see a couple of arrows, They are Reference points for tightening the filter. Filters should only be tightened app 3/4 of a turn Or a max 1 turn After the gasket ishiznitting the block or . naturally pre-filled with oil on the gasket or O RING. That black coating allows instillation with out a wrench. With filters that do not have the black coating i wrap some seat tape around the filter for ease of instillation. I never use a wrench to install a filter unless it is on a diesel and a very big one. Over tightening a filter is very bad to say the least. This is easily found out on big rigs as they are normally overtightened. I took some photos of a couple of filters i opened up this morning and i will post them. Then you can make the decision on filter quality.
Yeah, don't put them on wrench tight....you'll have hell to pay to get 'em off.
As Tom stated, if you can put some oil in the filter before putting it on so you won't have a dry start, so to speak. I never put mine on more than hand tight, and even then, it's usually a struggle to get them off, thankfully on the Mountaineer, it's pretty easy to push the lip of the airdam/under bumper plastic over and get a filter wrench in there for removal.
Also, put a dab of clean new oil on the seal before install....keeps from sticking on the next time you do an oil change. Also, check your old filter to make sure the seal ring is on there when you remove it....bad things can happen if you accidentally leave it on the engine, then install a new filter on top of it.
And...didn't mean to cause a drama here, but like I mentioned, I had a Fram filter failure on my tractor a few years ago...thank god it was right there in plain sight where I could see it, or I would have had a ruined engine. No more fram stuff for me.
I'd rather pay a little more now, and not a lot more later, to put a spin on their silly catchphrase. If fram works for you, good deal...here's hoping you never have any bad luck...as I did.
Check this out and you decise
FRAM 36 PLEATS and all paper
(http://i740.photobucket.com/albums/xx46/proguns/001-160_zpsba926e92-1_zps99eac880.jpg) (http://s740.photobucket.com/user/proguns/media/001-160_zpsba926e92-1_zps99eac880.jpg.html)
Baldwin much better filter 48 PLEATS and metal end caps. Also a nice spring holds the filter in place
You be the judge THANKS
(http://i740.photobucket.com/albums/xx46/proguns/002-104_zps9818e64a-1_zps1a98dd5b.jpg) (http://s740.photobucket.com/user/proguns/media/002-104_zps9818e64a-1_zps1a98dd5b.jpg.html)
Oops, No---I have only used my hands to tighten a filter and always coat the rubber seal with motor oil before installing. I have used Frams because they have been the common filter sold in many stores here. Perhaps I overtighten them but I always check the diagram on the filter case. The PH-8 shows 3/4 to 1 full turn I believe. I was probably more on the full turn end of the chart. The pain in removing is the filter socket will not fit over the Fram grip material most of the time.
I buy motorfcraft filters at walmart.
Probably the best choice, I need to pick up a few due to now owning four vehicles that actually run(or at least soon will)which use the FL-1A... Somehow I seem to have a abundance of the FL-820S for the 4.6L...
Question. Other than the lack of the anti-drain back valve in the FL-1A, will it thread on and function properly in place of the FL-820S... if there is room?
The FL-1A has a anti-drain back valve and no can't be used for a 820 because the FL-1A threaded opening is smaller with std threads, the 820 is metric...
What other filters are metal end caps, that I can easily get? Surely Baldwin isnt the only one.
About any of them except for the low buck Fram...
Your engine will be more than happy with either a Motorcraft or Pure One Purolator, excepting for maybe a Mobil 1 filter that came with a oil change special, those are about all I use...