I'm pretty sure I asked something like this long ago, but I can't find the thread. Once again I cannot find the second wire/single pin that is used when attaching a code reader to run KOER tests. Where does the wire come out of? I thought it might be hiding in some wire loom, but I cannot find it.
Mine is on the driver's side by near the brake booster. Both the big 6 pin connector and the 1 pin connector are right next to each other on the same harness.
Yeah, I don't know where my second connector is.
(http://masejoer.com/Images/Thunderbird/Engine/obdconnector.jpg)
Hmm I'd check mine but it's at the shop getting some trans issues worked out right now. If I remember correctly both of the plugs come out of the harness in the same spot. The second plug didn't get cut off at some point by accident did it?
I remember a thread about this. Turned out the Self Test input (W/R) was in the six pin connector with the other three wires instead of being a one wire pigtail.
The other wires:
Tan/LG Fuel pump relay.
Y/BK Self Test output.
BK/W Signal Return
I had that revelation in bed this morning and curious if the other connector was sitting inside the larger one, but they all seem attached. I remember MANY years ago when I purchased the code reader that there was a separate wire/connector, but I do not see anything like it now. I seem to have 5 wires in the larger connector?
Is that cable harness from something newer than 88?
I screwed up!! It is the Self Test Input wire W/R that is the single wire connector.
I found this connector arrangement that I saved about a year ago.
It is supposed to be the "International" version of the connector and shows the STI (self test input) in the 6 pin connector.
Do you know if your car was built for export?
isn't that connector just a ground?
There is nothing in there. I'm pretty sure I used to connect a separate wire to the code reader long ago, but I don't see anything of the sort now. The Brown and Yellow/Black both go to the same pin. The rest are obvious where they go I think. It looks like I have fuel pump, signal return, self test out, and whatever the pin is opposite the fuel pump.
(http://masejoer.com/Images/Thunderbird/Engine/obdconnector2.jpg)
Looking for this answer too. I just tried to read the codes today with a cheap scanner and had no single wire to connect.
Sti
The Y/BK and the Tan wire in the same connector pin is correct. This is Self Test Out and the tan wire goes to the check engine light.
The White/Red wire is the Self Test In. Unplug it from the 6 pin connector and hook it to the single wire on the code reader.
So, were you able to get your code reader to work?
Haven't touched it. I'll give it a try soon. I completely forgot about this thread - I've been occupied with other projects.
Aaaaand, days ago I was pulling the harness back looking for the STI wire. Completely forgot about your response last year softtouch. I have a weird "check engine" light that comes on and off while idling in the garage, almost to the point of flickering. It can be sporadic enough, and I'm not even sure it's a real issue beyond something electrical. Car runs great. Going to try a KOER test today.
Don't skip over the KOEO. This is an important test of the sensors and also reads out the memory codes.
Once I got a battery terminal sleeve on my new battery's negative post (I've been using a + terminal on there for years), various ground memory codes went away. Beyond that, I simply had the EGR connector not plugged in completely. Its clip broke years ago, but generally hasn't been an issue as long as I actually push it on all the way. An issue that only came about after installing the GT40 tubular intake.
Good now.
On another note, I have a ton of clearance for the A/C hose now - I have like 2" of space from where the insulated A/C line used to rest on the Cobra intake. There's quite a few differences with those intakes, and the tubular one required me to use new vacuum fittings and grind away some of the throttle cable bracket. I'd think that a lot of material was cut off of the intake to make it sit lower, but the base mounting plate still has what appears to be normal material thickness. Maybe shaved just a bit, causing me all kinds of clearance issues. Didn't want to throw in a phenolic spacer.