hi guys,
I just bought a 88 Cougar XR7. I dont know why the dash doesnt work. It has the fully electronic dash. The check engine light will come on, as will the parking break light. I have no speedo or tach tho! Please help!
all the bulbs burnt out in the cluster?
I dont think so. I looked at them all. But seriously even in the sunlight I can see anything! They dont even appear to be working. I checked the fuses, all fuses are good.
Is there a control module for this electronic dash? or a relay? do i have to open up the back of the dash to get to lights inside? or is it just the turn bulbs outside the edge of the back of the module?
No, it has all electronics built in the instrument cluster.
It seems you don't have power going to your dash.
Here is the wiring diagram for full electronic IC.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-c4f91wG5yVA/UNR-NurS2CI/AAAAAAAAFug/cQ5X68iMRuI/s800/s136.jpg) (https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-blr0Q0rHs8w/UNR-OSZucmI/AAAAAAAAfornicate/8QyjUZbr4qs/s800/s137.jpg) (https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-OpQ1Eo04cy4/UNR-O3Cy5vI/AAAAAAAAFuw/FfQcdLd9XGw/s800/s138.jpg)
Check volatage on inputs 14 (R/Y, fuse 18), 16 (LB/PK, fuse 17) and 18 (LG/Y, fuse 8).
You should really grab my 88 EVTM. I personally think that it is a must have if you own one of these cars. You can get it from the link in my signature, or from the link in Trinom's signature. Good luck.
got it thanks! i really want to figure this out!
okay... So I basically cheated. My alternator was not charging at all because it was getting 0 signal from the green wire... The one that apparently comes from the dash...
So I clipped it into the hot wire next to it that runs 12v. This made the alternator charge like it was supposed to.. So that is done, I get in the car and notice I can almost make out the gauges. They are working...
I drive around and find that the gauges turn off and on at will.
I replaced the ignition relay and this seems to help.
BUT I have to have the key turned exactly right to have the gauges, turn signals, and heater/ac blower work....
Any advice? The gauges are very hard to make out.
The voltage is supposed to come from the IGNITION SWITCH and go through the alternator warning light on the dash, and then on the green wire to the Alt. regulator.
You need to disconnect this jumper when the engine is turned off, or it will drain your battery.
??? Do you mean the starter relay?
Yes!! Replace the ignition switch before it catches on fire!!
x2- Bad ignition switches are common on our cars. And when defective can catch fire all by themselves with nobody around.
Yeah it did drain the batter... and no i mean the ignition relay. Its what i bought and replaced. the 5 pole relay under the steering wheel.
... ignition switch?ok ill head to the local napa lol..
Thanks you guys rock!
no kidding? ok i just replaced rotor,cap, spark plugs, and wires... so ill head to the store now, then do my oil change...
If you can barely see the dash display it means it's working, but the backlighting isn't. This is almost certainly a bad cluster illumination relay, which, IIRC, is in the area behind the radio toward the driver's side. It might also be the halogen bulbs burned out, but this is less likely as there are six of them and sudden failure of the lot of them is unlikely...
what is the relay called? i cant seem to find it on autozone.
Try the ignition switch first. I had this exact problem last year. My ignition switch had over heated and melted the Gr/Y wire until it pulled back off it's terminal. I replaced the switch AND connector shell.
The part is probably obsolete, so you won't find it at Autozone. I forget where I got the one for my old Sport. Here's a pic of where it's at. This image is of the left hand side of the dash and would be looking at the dash from the firewall side, with the steering column coming down through the center (you can see the column support bracket in this pic).
The section of the ignition switch that feeds the "green wire" to the Alt. Reg, also feeds fuses 5, 9 and 17.
Fuse 17 powers the electronic cluster.
With the "green wire" jumpered to 12 volts, it backfeeds through the Alt. warning light, all the stuff the ignition switch should feed but at a reduced voltage.
Don't know what relay you replaced.
The ignition switch on the steering column with a lot of wires to it, not the tumbler you put the key.
And as Foe said, replace the ignition switch (and the connector). This is why you have to turn the key just right to get other things to work (turn signals, HVAC, etc). Until you do this, disconnect the battery. I have gone on about this before, and it may sound like I'm being alarmist, but your car is a ticking time bomb. Your car could catch fire at any moment, whether you're in it or not. It doesn't matter what position the key is in, or even if it's in the car - it could go up in smoke at ANY MOMENT!!! Disconnect the battery. Now. Do not reconnect it, and do not drive the car, until you get that switch replaced! I go on like this because I had one catch fire on me. While driving...
okay! I got the ignition switch. and the panel relay is the one i replaced. it is called the ignition relay btw...
okay i assume the ignition switch is where the key is right? otherwise where is it?
Just down the column from there. With the huge wires.
You'll very soon see why so many of us are always talking about "slaving" circuits.
wait what?
I got it put on but the dash is still pretty hard to see. I will try it now that it is dark... I bet I have someblownbulbs...
Also make sure both plugs are attached securely to the dash.
They are...
what are you talkinga bout slaving?
Nothing that has any bearing on your current situation. But because you want to know, it's the act of using relays to route current around the ignition switch, and by so doing, actively prevent component overheating. But THAT will be a project for another time, you have to get things working before you start thinking about slaving the ignition switch.
Speaking of the switch, you replaced it, but what did the connector look like?
I am thinking of using LEDs in the dash to make it very bright, because when I flip the headlight switch on, the stereo and blower control and everything but the gauge panel light up at night.. so i have no night time gauges right now...
try moving the rheostat wheel next to your headlight switch back & forth a few times. That sometimes gets bad contacts and causes no backlighting when the headlights are turned on.
just in the dash though? i mean all the other lights work...
Well, thunder chicken, he's got you there.
I still think we'd like to see a pic of the ignition switch connector.
ill grab it when im off work in 2 hrs :)
anyone know if this situation got resolved? I have issues with the tail lights and digital dash lights not coming on when I turn on the headlights, I'm wondering if it could be an ignition switch problem because I've already replace the headlight switch with a good used one.