So I have a 1987 TC and would like to put a 1984 5.0L in it. I'm currently tearing the old 5.0L apart and plan to rebuild it and get a little more HP out of it. My dad said the v8 came carbureted and I'd like to know if I can get a EFI system for it so that its more reliable and more power too.
Planning on getting a rebuild kit for it from Summit with no changing of bore size to keep it easier and cheaper, but after that idk.
Although any other tips you can throw my way for rebuild and install would be greatly appreciated!
Wo
I have a stock Upper and Lower intake with TB along with an F150 Fuel rail with extensions to be able to plug directly into your TC fuel lines and 19lb injectors I also happen to have a repinned 88 tbird harness that would require very little wiring to use. Harness is actually set up for mass air.
I'm not gonna disagree about mileage. But the car won't lose to much value because I changed the engine to something better (and i plan to keep this car in the family). The TC is great because of whats under the car not just the hood.
Also I do know that I could get a lot out of the 2.3 and turbo but the after market isn't to strong, and too expensive for me. Where the old Windsor has a great market with some pretty good deals. And sorry I keep rambling but my Dad bought the old engine and transmission to put in it so I plan to do the same. :)
What year of block did you put this on because from what I've read they switched the block or something in 86 that changes how stuff lines up i guess:/
Also have a set of stock tbird motor mounts and set of new Chucks mounts for sale.
all my stuff was off of an 86 block
As far as I know a stock 302 windsor block is the same. there might be something different between castings when they went to a roller cam
The only differences worth mentioning are the holes for the roller lifter spider. The external mounts and important holes, etc are all standard, whether it's from a 99, 89, or 84.
For that matter though, I'd find a roller block...having that option is a major must have for a lot of cam choices.
Show me where a 2.3 can be made to have more power (we'll leave mileage alone..the 2.3 at best only gets 1-2 mpg more) than a 5.0 FOR LESS MONEY, and I'll leave this forum voluntarily.
The 2.3 is a good engine, but you can build a 5.0 to silly power (granted, it may blow up in a week) a hell of a lot cheaper than you can build a 2.3 to make that same power. Not everyone has the skills to weld several feet of i/c piping, either, let alone set up a large single or a twin system.
I'd rather have an LS engine than a 2.3....but I'd rather have an ecoboost than anything else.
The 302 can create way more power than the 2.3 turbo. There is no better engine for fun than a v8 in my eyes.
^^^^^^^^ There you go, after owning a FULL dozen '87-'88 Turbo Coupes, my feelings exactly...
Above said, I'd never swap using a non roller or stock headed 5.0, at the least a GT40 head would be my choice and prefer something in aluminum...
A alum head and intake 5.0 with headers doesn't weigh but about 100Lb more than the all iron 4cyl and will make a easy 325-350Hp, try that with a 2.3T and keep it reliable...
There's a post on here by Dominator that covers most of the necessary changes, having done the swap myself I know it's mostly accurate and isn't for the swapper that can't read wiring diagrams(it's a real bitch to find as he contributed to a already active thread)...
Here's the thread I was talking about, luckily I had it book marked...
http://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?1218-turbocoupe-5.0-swap
I used a 5.0 Bird for all the small pieces that's necessary and converted it's SEFI harness to mass air before I swapped it into the TC...
Horsepower is cheaper with a 5.0 than a 2.3. Just sayin. But more than that, Horsepower is a calculated from Torque, and you'll never get more Torque with a 2.3 than a 5.0 on a similar budget. I think TC's and 2.3T's are cool, but it's easier to afford to make my 5.0 fast.
I know this guy makes 5.0 harnesses but they may be Mustang specific. He does do custom jobs but I have no idea what he would charge.
http://www.thedetailzone.com/Ford%20Replacement%20Harnesses.htm
Darren
Okay so obviously I should change to a roller cam set, didn't know that earlier. But how could I do this the cheapest way? I have a limited budget but know I want to change the engine & transmission. I would love if people would help to suggest parts or places to buy! I'm don't want or have the budget for huge horsepower, 250ish will do but more is fine by me lol.
Thanks everyone who has commented so far much appercaited!
I read dominator's post so ill need to look into getting those parts.
And also if I say something wrong, please correct me!
Another thing... While I rebuild the v8 and all that, I plan to put in the new transmission in and get that figured out and turn up the turbo PSI until I got the v8 done.
Welcome to the board! Where in Iowa are you located?
If 250 horsepower is all you need, why bother swapping engines? The 2.3 will easily (and reliably) make that, probably with just more boost and exhaust. What transmission in currently in the car? It is true that there aren't 100 companies making parts for the 2.3 like the Windsor, but performance parts are readily available from places like Stinger Performance, Boport, Esslinger, etc. I encourage you to read up at Turboford.org before making the swap. Once you up the boost, you just might get hooked on it.
Whichever path you choose with your car, there are plenty of people here to help you get the job done.
I d
I know I could get 250hp from the TC but I'd like the torque grunt and power of a v8. I plan to keep this for a long time and will keep upgrading the engine as I get the money. And I'm pretty stubborn about this v8 idea trust me.. And I'm not saying 250 like my target I want that bare minimum.
What are some good ways to get the gunk and oil off the old v8?
Some years back when MM&FF was testing different aftermarket heads, they got 245 Hp from the stock E7 headed 5.0HO with the only mods being a little timing advance and dyno headers...
I would look into the aftermarket cams and see what they have for non-roller. They have some pretty peppy stuff for them. Other than cam and electrical, everything else is bolt-on.
And yes, 5.0 is the cheaper way to get HP. Not to mention, you can also get better sounding exhaust with them.
True
TOM Renzo how much money did you have to spend to get 260 at the back wheels?
Right now my TC has the stock A4LD (automatic) in it right now and it leaking and it slips like crazy after not being drive for a few month... So getting it out from where it's stored, when the snow melts, is gonna be fun.
Can anyone suggest a good step-by-step guide for rebuilding?
Bah plenty of stock 5.0 blocks live at 400Hp and where were we talking that much HP anyway?????
High RPM is what kills them, keep it under 6500 and 400Hp is doable of course to have 400Hp at lower speeds is gonna probably require a SC or turbo......
A few random 87 TC question..
My "fog" lights have never come on ever, and the previous owner said that. common problem? fixes?
Secondary radiator fan never come on for what I know.
How to turn the PSI up to 15ish from 10 Factory stock?
When installing the AOD with the same length as the A4LD will any of the linkage have to change?
Best way to clean up the Factory "snow flake" wheels? their oxidized, or something IDK.
Thanks for the help!
Ill check my fuses and bulbs when the bird comes home.
My TC stalled from over heating at one point las summer soo idk if it kicked on..
Also the person doig my transmission work is going to put a different length yoke on for me!
[QUOTE
By the
I kno
Tom before you go... I do play to switch the motor over to a roller cam.
And lastly is their and Affordable way to put the turbo back on to the v8, I've always wondered that.
A good set of alu heads fixes that and they are cheap... By the time you mess around finding a good 2.3T head that isn't cracked, port it and install big valves, you'll have the price of a new set of 5.0 heads... Yeah you are going to DIYS but few of us have access to a machine shop...
PLUS you need a turbo that will support higher power levels, the wimpy little IHI isn't going to be of much use for over 240-250 CRANK HP... At that power level the puny 2.3 clutch is going to last what, 3-4K mi if you're lucky???
I yanked my 2.3T in '99 and have never missed it(sold it to a SVO guy), and usually kept the real TCs around just long enough to find them another home... Yeah 5-speed can be fun, but some of us want a automatic and the A4LD is far from a performance piece...
Basically by the time all the supporting pieces are bought, neither will be cheap if one is shooting for over 300HP...
But factory GT40(p) based motors are cheap and can easily get people up above 250 RWHP, 300+ crank. Those things are great for the price with many pulls selling for under $500.
Everything else, if you want over 400hp, I'd go straight to either a 351 or a strong aftermarket 302 block. At that point there's not much of a limit in what you can do. $5k (new parts) can get you a 408 with cam/heads/intake that can make well over 500hp, and $7000 (new parts) can get you a 302/347/351/408 that can take nearly whatever you want to dish out. Revving much higher than the limiter of course can easily double these prices. I figure you'd need at least another $1k on top of these numbers for supportive upgrades, but many of us have already completed those. Past 600hp, things start to get more difficult and expensive, especially if you add traction. I can't see more than 600hp ever being anything but reckless driving when on the street but you still always want more...
600
Personally, I'm building the 2.3 just to do something a little different from the common line. Everyone and their brother has a built 5.0 in their fox. It's so common place now, it has become a cliche to see one. I realize that it is much more expensive to build than the 5.0, and the motor's bottom end really won't last much past 50-75K at around 400hp, but I'm ok with that. If I wasn't, I would have went 351w all day long. The 5.0 is a good motor to go fast with on the cheap though.
Big b do you have any post or whatever on your project cause I want to see how it goes for you:) good luck!
Found a salvaged 88mustang looking into getting that engine instead off rebuilding the two.
If you're rebuilding a 302/5.0 I would skip the GT40(P) heads and go straight to some good aluminum heads (AFR, Edelbrock, Trick Flow etc.). I had GT40Ps on my car for several years and last year switched to Edelbrock Performers. Based on trap speed I picked up 40 hp with no other mods but the heads. It's like a night and day difference from the GT40Ps.
If you don't have the money for aluminum heads (you're looking at around $1200 for a pair) the GT40/GT40Ps will be a nice improvement over the stock E6/E7 heads. Don't forget any head you get from the yard is going to need to be rebuilt, upping the price of a "good deal" used head.
BTW 300hp+ on the street is stupid fast, even in a 3700lb+ car like my Thunderbird. Hell the 2012 Mustang in my garage has a 305hp and I can't even use the car to its full potential on the street. I can only imagine how crazy a 400hp+ street car is. Crazy? Yes. Fun as hell? Yes, based on the 2012 Mustang GT I test drove.
My supercharged Marauder dynoed at 430Hp to the rear wheels, for approx a 4500Lb ride including me it was a lot of fun(yeah it's gone, sold it this past Sat)...
Gekell where in Iowa are you located? Im just across the river from Dubuque. Oh and the A4LD wont have a chance in hell of living at 15psi, thats why my car was swapped to a 5 speed. The auto was toast. I say that, but I also know where there is an auto that possibly has been rebuilt recently.
Just curious what kinda mpg you guys were knocking down with your 2.3's.
I have averaged 30mpg with the stock aod and s.o. 5.0.
I got some where between 28 and 32mpg(just an estimate, 493 miles plus some around town before my trip), only got $50 back in it and still had about 1/4 tank. That was with a couple hundred pounds of tools and luggage and hitting 75-85mph for about 5 hours with a couple of stops to strech my legs.
Thanks. It's in the User Rides section. Most of my project and a lot of the work I have done has went undocumented though, just started documenting it when the body/paint work began. It will probably end up becoming more than just a body/paint work thread though, as I begin to build the 2.3, so feel free to check out my progress anytime. Good luck to you with your 5.0 Bird build as well!
First
I've never ran into another turbo coupe on the road, or seen one driveable. Which is kinda crazy, because I often see 3-5 different cougar/birds about every month. I get comments all the time about how people didn't think tbirds ever came with a v-8...
I honestly don't see any point in building up a 351 based block. You can easily get over 347ci out of a 302 and have the smaller mains and get more rpm's from the much lighter rotating assembly. If your starting from scratch, it really isn't much more to go with an aftermarket block. I dream of a big bore 302 to un-shroud the valves and allow you to actually use the extra air of most aftermarket heads.
The 2.3's at least don't split in half with a stock block and 500+hp. I've seen a couple of svo guys locally in the 6-800rwhp range with a stock bottem end.
Agreed. Many find <100k explorer motors though, which can easily run for another 100k. I quite dislike the P-heads I've been using. My TW heads should be just about done at the shop. Above 9.5:1 compression and the better flow, with a freshly ported intake, should work quite well for me, even without other changes. It will be great, along with my other modifications, and some new windows (rear quarters will no longer be deteriorated!). The Bird's looking up.
The GT40/GT40P heads are a nice improvement over E6/E7 heads but can't hold a candle to aftermarket aluminum heads. You can port the bejesus out of the GT40/GT40P and they'll maybe flow just as good as a nice aluminum head does out of the box.
You should be happy with the TW heads. The Edelbrocks I have don't flow quite as much as a TW but it was still a "holy shiznit" moment in power vs the GT40Ps.
If I had a TC and wanted to keep it a 2.3T, I'd get a Ranger 2.3L Duratec (have to make mounts), a Focus ST 2.3L head, a T5 bell to fit the Duratec-HE (yes, they are available) and a T3 d header. I'd side mount the factory turbo (at least at first) and set up a front air to air. I'd run the Focus ST PCM with a tune, and...
...well anyway. That's where I'd go with a TC. V8's are awesome, too. But I'd want to do something I've never heard of before. I thought about the Volvo head trick, but there's too much custom engine fab for my taste, and besides; it's played.
I sure hope so. The heads themselves were toast with bad valves and guides so $900 in parts and machine work later, I should have some very nice heads. I don't know if I'm breaking even, or if I should have just gone with new heads from the start. Heads + TF 1.7RRs for $700, $900 in machine work with them being taken down to 54cc from 61 and much better guides, some bowl work, 5-angle valve job, etc. I assume new heads would have cost me $1100 + $200 rockers + $300 in machine work to get them to the same standard. It makes the price of AFR225s for a 408 seem like nothing.
I really could use a different cam, but the ones I'd be interested in require 1.6 ratio RR's, and I removed a bit of the ptv clearance so it'd be questionable on what would even work. I'm thinking stick with what I have until/if I move up to a larger motor, and hopefully the last one. When is electric going to hurry up so I move on to a 500kW motor with future battery tech providing a 500 mile range? I assume we'll die before then...
I've done this actually and thought I'd share my insights. Dropping in a v8 won't be as cheap or easy to upgrade unless you do it all at once up front. You can find an explorer motor for pretty cheap though which is a good start, but turning the boost up on your 2.3 is just about as much fun. If you have a stick behind your 2.3 you can have a lot of fun for cheap, stock block will take alot of abuse but then you are going to run out of injector at a point and have to look at a quarter horse or megasquirt and go up in injectors. Next you are going to have to step up clutch and this isn't to painful either, just need an adapter and new flywheel (Think Stinger has both of these still). You might even upgrade turbos and headers at this point depending on what you go with this can be expensive or cheap and fun also, stinger used to sell a cheap header and a holset is pretty cheap. I guess what I'm trying to say is you can have alot of fun with the 2.3 and do incremental upgrades for 3-500 a pop be down for a weekend and have a smile come Monday. Having said that I have a 331 in my TC now with aftermarket fuel injection and a c4 (3speed auto). Only big change I wish I made is going with an aftermarket block with my forged internals so I can run some boost, at the time I didn't know 302 blocks were bad about splitting.
This is my experience and I'm sure others have gotten different mileage than I have :P
PS: My 2.3 with 65mm tb upgraded guts and a holset got around 25 ish if I was nice to it, the 331 is like somewhere in the mid teens for gas mileage but I don't drive it so nice.
OH PS:
Didnt read most of this thread just beginning and end, but if you do go v8 Long Tube headers SUCK to put in and changing a starter / dropping trans is a PITA!
Same here, only ever seen one other around here, and it was in the junkyard with a smashed in drivers side. From what I've read most of them where electrically problematic (mine was), and probably ended up being junked early on, at the first sign of expensive failure, and most likely the A4LD or Turbo was the first thing to go in most of them. Wish I could find more in the yards around here, so I could start ding the parts.
can someone tell me why when someone asks a question about a build... the subject always get thrown off and people start discussing other things in a guys thread? not trying to step on anyone's toes but if you want to discuss heads and what not, make your own thread.
But ya know Tom, not everyone is interested in...
Not everyone has access to cubic dollars...
If he wants to build a flat tappet, std headed 5.0, it's his business and surely not yours or mine... A fairly peppy performer can be built on a reasonable budget, stop trying to impress your will on other members of this board, it just the most of us off...
[quote=t
wow
So, the OP asked for help with a swap...not OPINIONS on his swap. Keep that in mind when replying.
Also, to the OP. I moved the posts regarding the body kits to the proper location. This is the Engine Tech section, so please try not to clutter up your own threads with other non-applicable questions.
It would cost money to buy a different block. He already owns the flat tappet block. That is why I suggest to just buy a peppy flat tappet cam. Nice cams are available in non-roller.
its not hard to make a flat tappet block into a roller block. it can be done.....
Yep
Most the sky is falling if you use todays oils and you'll wipe your cam is baloney, there still 700-800 ppm of zddp which is as much or more than was in the '60s motor oil... No I wouldn't use most of todays oils in my .700 lift 400Lb spring race motor but for the average mild street engine they are fine...
Mobil 1 0W-40 has 1100 ppm and is some of the best off the shelf oil there is... A 40W or 50W isn't required to limit zinc to the extent the 20W & 30W have(though many have)... Valvoline VR1 oils also contain a healthy dose...
Excepting for a few brands(Castrol comes o mind) anyone that would like to check can look on line for their oil's PDS and find out what's in it...
LOL You have no idea the contemplating I did going back and forth on my current project before deciding to go with another 5.0.
ffff
I assume you're ???????????????????? about the guy asking 12k. But what has that got to to with this thread? Maybe I missed the connection.
Ok h
Tom, just let the guy V8 convert already. He's already decided, he's got stuff, if it doesn't work out the way he thinks it will, he'll just have to do it again. Everyone's journey with these cars is unique, why shouldn't his be?
it was said before Tom........
Not everyone lives by this
I spend money I don't have, To build cars I don't need, To impress people I don't know
in all honestly its his car, he came here for advice on the swap and not someone to tell him how he wants to build HIS car.
Btw Tom, I am building another 5.0 for my swapped turbo coupe because its what I want to do
Well the block is cracked so I'm not going to be messing with that any longer.
I called junk yards for an engine all I found was a Grand Marquis and a Town Car, and a few trucks... I don't have any years for them though. I'm going to call back on that but what do you think on those v8 I want to stray away from trucks just cause their built a bit different...
What about getting a modular v8 out of the newer mustangs? Their easier to find but how much would pure conversion cost be??
hhh
If you want some good power, get a 5.0 from an explorer and install an HO cam. Easy enough
Exactly , you are constantly trolling for an argument.I don't like butting in on these types of threads,but frankly,I am sick of you wrecking threads.
nobody wants to get on here and see this BS every other week.....................I am done ranting now,good day.
What year did they stop using the V8 EFI in the explorers?
Can you block people from threads?
You can block any user by clicking on their user name, its in the drop down thingy.
The v-8's (302's anyways...) ended in about 2001. I believe they started in 1996.
Best bet these days is a Explorer engine, unfortunately they are "dressed" differently than the orig 5.0 in Birds, Stangs etc of the era... By that I mean the electrical configuration is entirely different, uses crank sensor, coil packs(no distributor), etc...
I'd recommend looking for a 5.0 Bird/Coug parts car to help with all the little pieces necessary... I found one for $100 when I did my swap, was worth more like $500 for all the parts...
there are also some odds and ends that you will need to find to make the explorer engine work, but the block is the same as a fox 5.0 engine.
What's the latest Thunder I can you for an easy switch? its a 1989 correct????
88 sorry
1987 or 1988 preferred, 1986 should be OK as well... 1989 was the first year of the MN-12 chassis, didn't even offer a V8... The '91-'93 Bird 5.0 HO would be a good choice but few other parts would be useable for your swap...
Thanks A lot! I just found a a website with over 200 pages of just salvage tbirds for sale (not the exact years I'm looking for but still)! Pumped!
if it comes down to the fact that you cannot find a good roller block, power can still be made with a flat tappet cam. all these issues people say they always have, I've never had with my 302 in my mustang. with a flat tappet torker 2 cam. the car runs great. good driveability. and runs low 9's in the 1/8th. don't let anyone discourage you on what YOU want to do. its your car. Do what you want, the good thing about the internet, is people have probably done it before, and are willing to help. on anything car wise. Don't let Tom discourage you. He Trolls threads for his own amusp00get.
Ok 8
If people don't chill the hell out, there will be involuntary vacations from the forum.
No more name-calling, and no more whining about people not listening to what you have to say.
No, i'm done with this. Quite honestly, if someone has a different opinion, its an issue with you. I understand that you have years of experience, but so do i. I don't need to stuff it in anyways face. You don't need to tell me anything about "roundy round" cars.i work for a ARCA team, and just got back from DAytona less then a month ago, so enlighten me. WERE NOT racing "roundy round", not the subject. the kid has a flat tappet block he wanted to build. ON A BUDGET. and this would have been a solution. So i added my two cents. There are other options. if a flat tappet cam is so bad, why has my car ran since 86. on the same cam. i understand it isnt the best technology anymore, but its still available and can be used. DONT you question my intelligence. EVER.
Wow, great job shiznitting up the new guys thread. Gekell we are not all like this here, so don't run away.
I don't think people understand how much time they waste out of their lives trying to push their opinions on others over an internet forum. I think more would be gained for you expending that energy out in the world actually doing something. Like working on your car. Just my 2 cents, take it how you will.
Any ways back on topic. If you're looking for front dress (timing cover, water pump, accessory brackets, accessories, fan, fan shroud) any 86-88 Thunderbird or Cougar with a 5.0 will work. Also any Mark VIIs from 1986-1992 have the same front dress as 86-88 Thunderbirds and Cougars.
It's also possible the front dress from an 86-93 5.0 Mustang might work as well. I know they had a slightly different front dress due to a lower hood line.
I found on ebay where they sell engines yanked out of Crown Vics and Grand Marquis most are stripped of the AC unit, tranny, starter, alternator, transfercase, air pump, and a few others.
But they do have all of the wiring harnesses and fuel system. They seem to be all right around $300-$350. All have over 100k on miles.
a few questions on it.
1 has anyone else bought these?
2 good buy?
3 how much more needed
4 should i try to rebuild and get more hp and torque or let it stay at 160ish hp and 270 toque? <-iffy question soooooo yeah
The engine long block and timing cover/oil pan are the same. The rest of the stuff may or may not work as I'm not sure. The fuel rails might be different. I wouldn't use the wiring harness from the Crown Vic/Grand Marquis. It is a different animal than the Fox harness.
If you're going to rebuild the engine (which I would recommend) you can modify the engine to make what ever power level you want :).
If I had a cracked flat tappet block and I was going back to the drawing board for an engine donor, I'd go with a 96 or 97 Explorer 5.0. Here's why:
1. GT40 - heads, upper and lower intakes, 65mm throttlebody, internal EGR, easy headers.
2. Roller - I believe this has already been covered in sufficient detail.
3. Short nose water pump/accessories - If you use explorer's complete front dress, you get a quieter P/S pump, a better water pump, a 3G alternator and NO smog pump, not to mention more clearance for a better radiator and electric fan.
This isn't to say you'll have the easiest time of installing it, you'll have to pull the coils and cam synchro and replace it with a distributor, you'll have to rearrange the way you connect vacuum, you'll have to come up with a shorter coolant inlet hose (because of the oil cooler), you'll have to swap the oil pan and pickup, and you'll have to have AC hoses made and you'll want to swap out the teeny little Explorer cam for an HO cam (to keep the computer happy). You will need headers (HO stockers at least), you'll want an H-Pipe, and you'll have to get Mark VII mid-pipes to connect the H to the lers. You'll be rewarded with around 270-280 HP. You can reduce the obstacles by using a T-Bird/Cougar/Mark VII accessory dress, but in giving up some difficulties, you'll also give up some of those secondary benefits.
sometimes you can find some pretty decent deals within the company i work for. LKQ. they tend to get rid of the older stuff and give it away at great deals. might be something to look into.
Just searched http://www.car-part.com for 96 Explorer 5.0 and found a few here in Iowa from $325-$750. Did not search for 97's. Not sure where you are at, but I bet a yard somewhere close to you has one.
1996
Engine
Ford Explorer GOOD 5.0L--JOEL,NTS 74,000 A 010186 $750 Carney Auto Parts - QRP Central USA-IA(Ames) Request_Quote 1-888-262-3808 Please Call Ahead Request_Insurance_Quote
1996
Engine
Ford Explorer 5.0,AT,8-95,MFI,RWD,175 COMP 199,101 A L60786 $325 Northend Wrecking - QRP Central USA-IA(Dubuque) Request_Quote 1-800-545-8885
1996
Engine
Ford Explorer 165000 3884 $400 Olsen's Auto Salvage USA-IA(Rowley) Request_Quote 1-877-499-4174 Request_Insurance_Quote
1996
Engine
Ford Explorer STARTS AND RUNS 141,000 A VI12 $500 Dons Auto and Truck Salvage USA-IA(Des-Moines) Request_Quote 1-800-372-6000 Request_Insurance_Quote
Hey! I haven't been on this thread for awhile but I found a 1994 Mercury Cougar 5.0L 4 speed auto (totaled) for sale and i was wondering how much of that would work and are the transmissions different than what would be in an 87 or 88 bird/cougar?
So I don't think anyone still really follows this thread but I'd like to mention that i have found a donor for this project. A 1988 Mercury Cougar XR7 parts car that someone from this forum had and used for the interior Seats, etc.. SO PROJECT IS A GO!!! Will be starting tear down Monday. :shakeass: :burnout:
Sweet
Nice. Updates and pics are great.
What a coincidence! I just sold a 1988 Cougar XR7 parts car today! Good luck Grant, and good dealing with you. Let me know if you need any help. I'm looking forward to seeing how your project turns out.
Jeff
So parts car is coming apart decent only thing i need to get the motor out is mounts and fuel line. Where can I get the fuel line disconnect tool for 88 cougar lines, also if someone could give a web address for it too that'd be appreciated.
Anyplace they sell auto parts. Seriously. Anywhere. Napa, autozone, advance autoparts, carquest, parts plus, etc. Anyplace.
Alright thanks.
Vinnie I'll upload some pictures of the parts car before it was stripped.
I got the correct tool and I'm sure of that, but I'm still having trouble trying to get the fuel lines disconnected.
Make sure the spring in the spring lock is free to expand and move. sometimes they rust to the outer shell and you can't get them to disengage. If that's the case, you'll have to use a pick to brute force the spring out of the spring lock and then locate a replacement spring.
So I finally removed the engine! I feel proud not going to lie it was cool to finally see this thing come out. Yes it would've been nice to have it out oh a month or so ago but its to late now. I'll upload some photos of the engine out. Don't have any pictures of it coming out. I did get the motor to come out without having to remove the fuel lines, I'll get that done soon though so I can keep the rails. It'll be on its way to get torn down and built next monday if everything pans out right. Probably wont if it goes like the rest of this project.
How'd you manage that??? I assume you pulled injector fuel lines and moved them aside???
Anyway you'll need the 5.0 lines so don't damage them, are different from 2.3...
Yeah I took fuel rails of the injectors and set it aside while I removed the motor