What do I need to know before performing this swap? I am guessing parts are all from a Mustang. Any harnesses I need or any bumps I am going to encounter? So far I have a WC 91 T5, 28 oz flywheel, King Cobra clutch, mustang pedals, aluminum quadrant and adjustable cable.
Thanks
If you want your reverse lights to come on, you'll need a T5 harness..if you can't find one from a T5 Mustang (regardless of engine, the little harness is the same) I think you might be able to find one from places like late model resto, and such.
You'll also need a shfter, the boot, and the console plate from a manual trans TC. Since you have a Sport, like me, you'll obviously need to cut your tunnel. I found a picture on here a long time ago, printed it off, and used it as a guide on roughly how to cut mine. Go conservative, it's better to make small nips out of it, rather than a huge chunk and take too much. Good luck, and pics when you're done :)
Good info
Planning the same swap, I will be watching this thread closely
Yeah make sure you put tranny fluid in your t-5 cause bone dry it will only last about 500 miles.. Don't ask how I know that :( It was one of life's lessons lol
Don't forget to use the mustang booster if you are using a firewall adjuster
Oh Ya new pilot bearing
And if you've got the fundage, a short throw shifter with stops is a must. I've got a generic on mine, and i love the feel. Not to much to compare to, though, as I've never had a Fox car that I drove much with a manual, let alone a short shifter..
Thanks for the info.
Now why A mustang booster? Is the Tbird one too big?
And what T-5 harness are you talking about? Is that the one that you can mod the aod harness from?
Yes the bird booster is to big to run an adjustable fire wall cable
Throw out bearing (hopefully one came with the clutch set), clutch fork, bell housing with correct clutch fork pivot ball, dust cover for the hole in the bell housing the clutch fork goes through, transmission mount, correct speedo gear, the block plate that goes between the block and the flywheel, and if its not a new motor now would be the time to install a new rear main seal if you see any oil in this area.
Darren
Add to that a new rear shaft seal for the T5...might as well, before you stab the driveshaft in it, and add your Dexron, and find out it leaks....especially on a trans you know nothing about.
Oh. I will just use a adjustable cable at the clutch fork.
the firewall adjuster is nice you might want to consider it, it makes adjusting the clutch a 2 min job instead of.. put car on ramps, adjust clutch, drive car, put car on ramps, adjust clutch, drive car... ok little bit more and I'll be happy.. put car on ramps, drive car, whoops too much go back a little...LOL
I think I got a dust cover if you need one, it didn't fit my bell housing so I never used it.
If no one else has mentioned it yet, definately get an aftermarket clutch quadrant. I didn't do this and within 6 mos the brittle stock plastic stuff broke on me (luckily I was in the driveway when it broke). You are better off to do it now, because changing the quadrant in the car is a lot more difficult, trust me!
I am running a Steeda adjustable clutch cable (http://"http://www.steeda.com/store/steeda-adjustable-clutch-cables-for-ford-mustang.html") with the Steeda billet aluminum quadrant (http://"http://www.steeda.com/store/steeda-double-hook-quadrants-for-ford-mustang.html"). The adjustment is not as handy as the firewall adjuster because you have to crawl under the car, but so far it works fine. I don't daily drive or put a ton of miles on so I shouldn't be adjusting the clutch all that often anyway.
The wife got me a Steeda Tri-ax shifter for Christmas (has the adjustable stops someone else had mentioned), which I have installed but not tried out yet. The car is in the garage until spring but I can already tell its going to be really sweet! The stock T-5 shifter is garbage.
you'll love the Tri ax if you drive it hard at all. I had one on my '91 GT and drag raced all the time and loved it. rarely ever missed a shift with it.
Great tip, changing it before the pedal assy goes in is the perfect time :) I hate working under the dash!
I would definitely change the input and output seals on the tranny before installing it if its used. They will almost certainly leak.
^This!
Also, if your trans mount is bad, now would be a good time to pick up a replacement, Energy Suspension has 'em, poly. Red, and probably black. Black is the ones with graphite infused in them...or so I have read.
I'm getting a steeda with my 3550 I'm picking up any aftermarket shifter is better than stock but you can remove the stock Handel and rubber bushing and add a short Handel and she shifts are solid
And the stock quadrants suck ! Lol
Lots of info guys. I am still collecting parts. Hard to find some stuff.
Post up what you are missing and someone here may have some stuff laying around.
Darren
Oh. Is the harness for the clutch interlock switch somewhere under the dash? I am running a A9L pcm with mass air swap.
Ok. I have most parts. I am looking for 2 pieces for the centre console. I need the whole shift boot and plastic piece for my T-5 swap. I also need the pannel the houses the ashtray/dual seat switches/mirror control and window switches. I just need the pannel not all the switches, but if it comes that way then I will take it.
Thanks guys. I do live in Canada but I have a lot of parts for turbocoupes to swap. Let me know.
Shane
I know a guy that might have your console parts you need let me know if you still need them
+2 on the steeda tri-ax short throw shifter. Very good piece. I have that coupled with a hurst handle it give it that little touch of classic hot rod with the long handle, without punching the dash in 1st, 3rd, and 5th.
Also if the tranny is a little worn there is an additive for syncromesh at the auto parts stores its kind of like friction modifier for limited slip diff's a bottle of that added into the tranny will add that little bit more of sense of security and will keep the tranny a little happier.
OK guys. I have the complete list of parts now. The hardest and cheapest part was the shift boot for the console.
In the next few weeks I will take my car to work and perform the swap with pics so you have a good view on what I had to do to do this swap.
Thanks for all the help guys.