Did eec swap on 88 tc. Cant remember what has to be done to the fuel wiring and the ignition. Any thoughts?
???????????????? More info!!!!!!!!!
whats an eec swap
Everything seems to be working except the fuel pump and the key start. No power to starter relay and nothing at the pump.
The harness is from an 87-88 eec is a da1 and the car is a 88tc
5.0l swap
Did you put the fuel relay in it's socket?
It's in the trunk, and there's another on the right hand side of the dash area, to the right of the glovebox, and up a little.
When i did my swap a couple years ago, I accidentally pulled that relay, and put a different in it's place sometime after that. Caused me a few funky issues, such as priming the fuel pump when I pulled the dimmer switch, with the ign off, indeed, keys weren't even the lock cylinder. Thankfully, a member here asked about the fuel relay, reminded me that I'd took it out, and put one back, checked it out, sure as hell was the wrong one.
You...umm, did ground your eec with the one small black wire that pigtails out of the EEC bundle, correct? Takes a little green 7mm (if I recall correctly) bolt...
Wait....some people have had an issue with the eec not "telling" the fuel pump to power up. 88turbo had some problems swapping his '88 TC to 5.0, and I think that was part of his problem. Might shoot him a PM and see if he has any helpful info...
Start Sig to the starter relay comes from the connectors on the drivers side by the brake booster.
Does an IRCM ring a bell!!! The TC uses an IRCM and not a separate relay. SO!! power up the FP from the ALDL connector and see if it runs. If it does check Pin 22 on the ECM and run the Pump from there. If it runs check to see if your FP signal is at that pin.
The DA1 has the FP output on PIN 22 Same as the LA3. So the pump should rin if the ECM is working properly, Once again check it from the ECM and if it does not run from that pin you need to check the IRCM. Once again the TC uses an IRCM not a separate relay.
NOTE make sure the inertia switch is not tripped. And that the NSS or clutch switch is checked out for cranking issues
IRCM is not used in the 5.0 swap Tom, what I found was that my EEC relay needed another ground, I added another wire and all is well. I found this by probing the relay connector with a test light and it clicked on with the key on.
Like I said in his other post
That is good info. Witch brings another question. With the auto to manual swap there wont be a nss? Or will there still be a safety with it? This is all great info i was lost and might buy a sport harness. Or has the mustang harness been done?
The stock IRCM can be used with no issues. Dun it many times. Why would it not work. Also sounds like the no crank is a missing NSS.
The original IRCM can be utilized with the swap. Simply by a pin out of the 5.0 harness to the original IRCM if desired. Grounding the FP enable lead will operate the external FP relay if you desire. Or wire it to pin 22.
I must be missing what you are saying and how you are converting the system. Thanks
Well to be honest i am confused and lost now. I have a DA1 with a 88 stang harness and a 5.0l i hooked up all the connectors and wires and lights work buzzers work so it seems to be close. Just no fp and no start with key. How can i help you help me? This is my 1st tbird not my first wiring job so i am ignorant to the acronyms and abbreviations which i am sorry for. Where can i find diagrams to help me pin out this and get some fuel? Also if there never was a nss what would be the fail safe in its place?
take your pick of which electrical manual / year you want per my diy link below
i see what you are doing,, going from a 4cyl to 8cly in an original 4cyl car.
since your looking for the fuel pump and trigger, skim through the evtm(s) and get your head around the fuel pump leads.
the EEC will trigger the EEC relay which in turn will trigger the fuel pump relay.
dont hose it up!!! dont just wing it and start powering stuff,,,,,,,,!!!!!!! that tan / light green wire is ***NOT*** a wire you want to mess with lightly **while** it is hooked up to the eec.
The eec will provide a ground signal to the fuel pump relay via the tan light green wire (same wire that appears on your self test connector up at the driver side strut tower.
if for some odd reason (after you get this part behind you) and you find that your fuel pump runs 100% of the time when you turn the key forward, pls say something!!
the fail safe is the inertia switch in the rear of the car (most of the time along where the driver side tail lamps are).
The fail safe to the NSS based on a stick would be the aod range selector switch, not sure what you have for power train now.,, sorry if you mentioned it and i missed the sentence.
Automatics must be in park to start. Not sure but I think the switch is located at the trans with the gear selector switch.
First: do you NOW have the manual trans in the car, or is still auto?
If that answer is yes, then you need to either hook up the neutral safety NSS, or do as i did, and just jump the two wires (for the life of me, can't remember their color) but if you do this, you WILL be able to start in gear. Use at your own risk!!
If you've still got the auto trans, (which I'm assuming you're manual trans since you went from 2.3 to 5.0, and can't use the TC's A4LD behind a 5.0) then I can't offer a clue.
On my neutral safety, i just stripped the two proper wires, connected them with a butt connector and taped them up. There are better ways to do it in that manner, so when it becomes a priority, I'll redo mine with a harness so I can also have back up lights.....
Its a manual.
the neutral safety wire should go through the floor right under the center of the dash, on the drivers side of the trans hump.
There is a connector under the dash on the drivers side behind the heater and radio controls
The question is was it originally a 5 speeder or converted to a 5 speeder from an auto 2.3 TC. If in fact it was an original 5 speeder car it should crank . Crank issues are void of the ECM.
Was a 2.3 auto converted to 5 speed.
I dont want to sound redundent, but should i s the stang harness and
Get the 88 bird harness? I wont be able to work on anything til next week anyway.
the bird harness if from an 88 will be almost plug and play, you might need to repin some wires.
Ok i found one ill buy it then. I keep seeing that the stang harness will have to be repinned all over the place and cause nightmares. You guys are the best! Im sure ill meed a lot more help soon.
Oh is there anything else to do with auto-manual nss?
Yes you need to find the NSS switch wires and the reverse wires and wire them correctly. Splice the 2 wires together from the stock NSS switch. And wire the reverse light wires to the New T5 Tranny reverse light switch so the reverse lights work. The 88 harness is so close to the TC setup i would use it.
Ok gonna get in it this weekend. Im so close now, very exciting thanks again guys!!! Also i have another 87 tc and a 2.3 w/74k original mi with trans harness and all accessories if anyone is interested. If not im gonna keep it for a buggy of spme sort
There's only 2 parts of an '87-93 Mustang wiring..anything that will work on a 5.0 Tbird/Cougar, and they are: injector harness, and T5 harness. Everything else is much different.
dono,, to me its just all sensors, relays and wires and connections. if stuff needs moved around you just gotta muddle through it one step at a time. wire is wire, switches are switches.
Well jacassity you are right. Every lead i had on a 88 sport harness failed, so i have started repinning the mustang harness. So far it seems that the black and gray connectors need a little rework. As far as that i havnt seen anything else from the eec that needs repinned. Should be done soon. Got the nss and fuel pump figured out thanks to the guys here! Also fabbed a 3" exhaust from turbo all the way out. Pics to come on another post
I just did my 88 V-6 to 5.0, from my 87 5.0. Even the 87 harness is alot different. Luckily Beau sold me the 88 ecu harness and it pretty much was plug and go. The headlight harness must of been different also, cause I still didn't find the alternator wires. But the V-6 had a pa master 200amp one wire alt on it, so I just used that. Next up switching I/C clusters.