I bought a set of Permadry valve cover gaskets for my 88 5.0. I was able to get the passenger side off with some difficulty painted it and put it back on. The drivers side looks to be impossible unless I take off the upper intake manifold. I hate to do this but I guess I'll have to unless someone knows of a better way. For anyone who has done this is it as simple as taking off the 4 bolts on each corner where the upper and lower manifolds connect? I took these out but the manifold didn't seem to want come apart even with a great deal of force, and I didn't want to break anything. It sucks that they make a 10 minute job into a 4 hour job but I guess access is still better then most new cars.
It's been a very long time since I tried something like this. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks: Charlie
Naaaah, it's not a big deal. I can have my upper intake off in two minutes...literally. No big deal. If it's the first time you've ever done it, grab some masking tape and a marker and put tags where everything goes. Pull the upper intake and do what you have to do.
I have two long bolts that I cut the heads off of to screw into the lower intake to use as guide pins as I lower the intake back on. Keeps everything lined up since I have a spacer and two gaskets there.
Make sure there aren't any support braces on the intake, and, there are 6 intake bolts. Two are under the intake plate. Don't forget them. Get back out there, if you have questions, let us know. Good luck.
to be honest, you really dont "need" the coolant lines on the throttle body either, and would be less of a mess the next time.
I agree though, you shouldnt have to take 1/4th of the motor apart just to do valve cover gaskets. a super duper spacer "might" help , i have not mesured the "max" height the upper intake "can" be but i know even with a 1/2'' spacer, there is still room. this would allow you to maybe kinda "roll" off the valve covers to clear rockers and do gaskets from now on without taking off the upper.
Vinnie,, no hijack here but how long are your bolts for your upper with the spacer? i have the same setup but the center 4 are on the short side.
do you remember where you got them? i could wing it at lowes but thought you may know.
Actually, I have no idea how long they are. I HOPE to be pulling the upper off Friday to do the push rods. i'll measure them and let you know. I got mine at Fastenal. Another option....and I've don it before, was to use some all thread, and nice stainless nuts on top.
thats a ****** good work around and solution for sure!
i will get the measurement max height in a few. Granted this would be based solely on oem motor mounts.
Yep, 6 bolts, two are under the plate on the upper.
To be honest, you wouldn't even need to physically remove the upper, just completely unbolt it, and have a helper hold it up while you access the valve cover bolts, and remove the v/c.
Did you get the reusable valve covers? I've got a set on my Tbird's 5.0, and when I get time, the other 5.0 will also get a set. Think they're fel pro, have a steel core with a bonded silicone "gasket" (for lack of better wording). I'll dig up a part number.
And Charlie, did you ever find yourself a console lid....I know I let you down, but I've got a few parts to send out tomorrow...if you're in need, I can get it your way...
Don't sweat removing the UPPER. You can remove it in 20 Minutes wearing BOXING GLOVES with one hand tied behind your back. Use studs for the instillation and make absolutely sure you use stock gaskets. Not those thick rip off insulators that can crack the ears off.And make sure to use a torque wrench. Those upper ears can break off so be careful. Piece of cake. If you live in a warmer climate eliminate the TB heater hose flow tubes. Other than that it is simple. Good luck.
:flame:
Thanks for the input. I felt stupid when I bought the manifold gasket today and noticed in the instruction sheet that there were 2 more bolts under the top plate.
Does anyone know the torque setting for this?
I did get the fel pro permadry gaskets. I don't want to do things more then once and have had some bad luck with cork in the past. I found a console lid a few weeks ago but thanks for the offer Thurdersport.
No worries...and I think you'll like the valve cover gaskets...the weird part of me wants to buy an extra set and hang em on the wall, lol..
14-18 ft/lbs
I set them at 16
it depends on which upper you have.
Cassity, the middle bolts are 7 inches long, 7 1/4 with the head of the bolt. That's with a 3/8 spacer. Now, that's with a Cobra intake.
Glad to report that worked like a charm, but it did take a little longer then 20 minutes.
Next up taking out the graphic equalizer to see if I can get the power button replaced. I'd like to keep the equalizer but I'm up in the air as to update the stereo or not.
FRPP makes a set as well. I've got them on my T-bird. They don't leak and can be reused. http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/item/M6584A50/1979-95-Mustang-50L-58L-Ford-Racing-Valve-Cover-Gaskets
Here are the ones I've got, and I think these are what OP has as well..
THESE. (http://"http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/FEL0/VS13264T/02313.oap?year=1993&make=Ford&model=Mustang&vi=1134076&ck=Search_02313_1134076_217&categoryRedirect=02313&pt=02313&ppt=C0026")
Yes, I think those are the same ones I bought. I just want something that will last and not leak. I hope to never have to do the job again. My time is worth more then the difference in cost when it comes to things like that.
Same with me...I'm a little over the doing things twice to get it right thing..
power button requires a piece of something to wedge in the side like the end of a plastic fork so the button is pushed in and always pushed in.
thats what we all do.
I think turbocoupe50 fixed his, not sure how, i have not been inside it yet.
My 87 had an EQ, I replaced the latching switch with a power button switch from an old Nintendo, but that was 15 years ago. It didn't fit EXACTLY right, but it was close enough.