I swapped my AOD out for a T5 this weekend, and I've got some pretty serious whining through gears 1-3. 1st gear whines the loudest, 2nd is a little quieter, and 3rd is a little quieter still, but still way too loud to be considered normal. 4th and 5th are silent. It gets louder when I accelerate, and gets quieter when I coast. The noise goes away completely when I push in the clutch pedal. Also, it pops out of reverse, no clue what to do about that. It's infuriating trying to back up though. I filled it with generic ATF, a bit over 2 quarts. I'm using a Ford 10.5 inch flywheel, an OEM (parts store) clutch, and Maximum Motorsports clutch cable, quadrant, and firewall adjuster. All forward gears engage and disengage smoothly, or at least I think they do. They don't grind at all as long as I push the clutch in all the way. This is the first time I've ever driven a manual car. I can make a video if it helps, what do you guys think? Thanks!
Possible issue, I didn't grease the input shaft bearing retainer. Could the throw out bearing make noise?
No, it only has load on it when the clutch is pushed (i think..?).
Might be a worn input shaft bearing. It's on the input shaft, behind the round cover that the input protrudes through. If you take the trans out to replace it (which is easy, the hard part is removing the trans lol) also slap on a steel bearing retainer. that will also give a better feel to shifts and last longer than the stock aluminum piece.
They're going to make a little noise, but it shouldn't be audible at highway speeds.
Also, you don't have your clutch cable too tight or not tight enough? Reverse is unsynchronized, expect some slight issues with putting the shifter into reverse unless you first shift into 5th. That slows down the spinning inside enough to overcome the non-syncing gears. Since it pops out of reverse, my guess is that the clutch cable isn't quite adjusted properly.
That's certainly possible. I'll have to take a close look at it this weekend (got 4 days off :D ). I ran into an issue using the firewall adjuster and my stock brake booster, I'm not able to unscrew the firewall adjuster all the way. I was planning circumventing that by adding a bushing or two on the cable at the quadrant.
Well it sounds like the main drive and cluster. Or the input bearing but i dought that. As the input bearing is in play all the time. Either way the tranny has issues.
I've heard this one before from my friend with a VR6 GTI. He started describing exactly the same issue moments after we installed a poly trans mount bushing to replace his blown out rubber one.
Your driving a time bomb lol
Foe...you may be onto something...mine makes a little noise, but I know mine isn't in great shape. I do also have a poly trans mount...
Your helpfulness in helping the OP with his issue is only surpassed by your grammar.
or, you're NOT driving a time bomb?...
I would just pick up another tranny if I were you. Tom is probably right and It's not worth fixing unless you were planning on doing a build for more torque capacity. Was there any play in the input shaft before you installed it?
T-5 noise in 1st, 2nd & 3rd is usually roughness on the end of the mainshaft that fits into the rollers in the back of the input shaft...
Jumping out of reverse is likely a shifter issue(inside top of case) 5-R lever problem or maybe a chewed up reverse slider...
If the mainshaft is bad it will require total disassemble to replace...
Hate to say it but sounds like you have a trans that's taken a beating, any idea if it's a World Class('85-up) or std version???
I've blown a few t5's not the best trannys around but the can be built or rebuilt and are a dime a dozen lol
If memory serves me the best you can expect from a T-5 is app 330 ft lbs of torque. Not very strong to say the least. Like i said you can throw out all kinds of reasons why it is making noise. But the bottom line the tranny is most likely tired and on it's way out. I have poli mounts in all my cars with no issues.
Yea it a ticking time bomb
I say that because when they blow they BLOW! Lol
And only t5 Z's are rated around 330
I bought my z spec new for $1500 and its still not strong enough lol
Totally true i listed the strongest unit of the bunch. Depending on the gear ratios they get progressive weaker. Those T5 trannys barely hold up against one of my mild 305 builds if they are built to the hilt. Compared to a MUNCIE that is rated much more than a T5. The T5 is a very poor excuse of a performance tranny. 6 Speeder is the ticket. I have a built T6060 rated just under app 850.
Yea I need a TKO
Just to much money right now
LMAO at anybody referring to the T5 as a performance tranny.
The input shaft didn't have any endplay at all, I got it off Craigslist a year ago. The seller said he thought it was rebuilt, but I guess that's not true :rollin: I've got the stock rubber crossmember mount on it. Interestingly enough, I was able to use the stock double hump crossmember without having to grind of the welds. Maybe that's just a Mustang problem.
It's a world class T5, came out of an 86 Mustang. I'm not too concerned with it blowing up on me, I won't feel too bad about beating it around :evilgrin: It's just gotta get me 5 miles to work and back until February, can't bring the Thunderbird to Lackland AFB ;)
Thanks for the responses, this forum is great.
Stock T5's are weak at best. However, I'm running a faceplated T5Z from Hanlon Motorsports. I've got
3 years of low 11/high 10 second passes on it. I leave the line between 3600-4000 depending on track conditions. Sounds like your T5 is going tits, and not the good kind...
Yea I got some mid 11's leaving at 6k on mine
But it's pushing the limits
I want to spray a 150 shot but this trans probably wouldn't hold a 75
I would hate to splatter a 1,500 tranny lol
Ill probably sell it and get a TKO or a cheap 3550
well if it ISNT a WC T5, then that is possibly your problem. non WC T5's take 50w gear oil not ATF
Go here and get a manual for the tranny:
http://www.tremec.com/anexos/TRSM-T5-0510-R1_173.pdf
Ignore the goofy looking tail housing on the one in the first page or two.
It is getting harder and harder to find good used units. If you can find someone that rebuilds them in close proximity you can usually talk to them and get a decent idea as to what it will cost to go through it. If that came from a 86 car I would start looking for one that came from a 91-93 car and when you find one take it to a builder and have them tear it down and inspect it before you buy it. If the seller will not go for this pass on it.
Darren
Drive cluster will explode shortly. Stay tuned