Fox T-Bird/Cougar Forums

For valve cover gaskets, I use the blue ones with a steel core (they're reusable). They're a few bucks more, but as long as you don't pinch 'em and nick 'em, they'll last awhile.

They're FelPro, but i can't remember the part #.

Double check the bolts. The Stang covers are aluminum, and have thicker s, so, the bolts may be a wee bit longer.

I would replace any vac or coolant hoses that you take off. New clamps would be advised as well.

I would replace any vac or coolant hoses that you take off. New clamps would be advised as well.

I'd say just new gaskets. If the fuel pressure regulator is old/original throw a new Motorcraft one on. Other than that you should be good to go :).

 
Thats another thing I was planning to do. I just wasn't sure if it was overkill (to my bank account) or if it was a good idea.
I have almost every book ever made for the 88 cougar.(Original services manuals B VOL 1 and 2, D, and Haynes and a Chilton's and the EVTM)
I know I should be looking in the books before I ask, but off hand does anyone know if they have all the lengths and diameter of all tubing?
I want to have everything on hand ready to go before I start the work on the car so I don't have to make trips back and forth to the auto part store in my girlfriend's car. I know such a drag right LoL
One more question for the night. For the hose clamps I've been seeing some different styles around(Example: Part # : MP47010). Do ya'll think is really makes any different in the end? Should I just stick with the same old screw band hose clamps?

I was planning of replacing all the bolts while I was down there just for easy access for way down the road if I ever get down there and do a full engine rebuild.
I'm slowly learning more and more about cars so I love doing everything myself. That and I'm way too cheap to pay someone else for something I can learn to do, haha.
Whats ya'll opinion on the wing bolts? Do they hold just as well as regular bolts? Also while searching for bolts I came across "Valve Cover Load Spreader". Is this just another thing sold for peoples ease of mind and to make money? Or is there any actual advantages to these?

I was planning of replacing all the bolts while I was down there just for easy access for way down the road if I ever get down there and do a full engine rebuild.
I'm slowly learning more and more about cars so I love doing everything myself. That and I'm way too cheap to pay someone else for something I can learn to do, haha.
Whats ya'll opinion on the wing bolts? Do they hold just as well as regular bolts? Also while searching for bolts I came across "Valve Cover Load Spreader". Is this just another thing sold for peoples ease of mind and to make money? Or is there any actual advantages to these?

Sorry, don't know hose sizes off hand. I looked at those hose clamps. They look nice, and you wouldn't have to worry about them backing off. Screw band clamps do have issues on occasion, but not often. Screw band clamps should be fine. As long as you use new ones that are the right size, there shouldn't be any problems. Besides, they are much cheaper!

Nice Mustang pic. Kind of random though...

I tried the fancy FMS valve cover fasteners on my 302 aluminum valve covers, they are a pain in the ass!  They constantly come loose and leak oil.  This time, I am leaving the studs in the heads and just using vinyl lined lock nuts.  The load spreaders do not work work with this design of valve cover, maybe the stamped steel valve covers. 

Good luck with that nice cat!!

Well here is some of the things i would do. Clean and chase all bolt holes. Make sure the mating surfaces are clean and slightly ruffed up. Just something i do i never use the front and rear lower intake gaskets. I use silicone. The sock gaskets just do not make it. Also use fast tack to secure the manifold side rails to the head. And when cleaning up the intake surface of the head be sure not to break the retaining tabs that hold the intake side gaskets. Just a tip!!

I tried the fancy FMS valve cover fasteners on my 302 aluminum valve covers, they are a pain in the ass!  They constantly come loose and leak oil.  This time, I am leaving the studs in the heads and just using vinyl lined lock nuts.  The load spreaders do not work work with this design of valve cover, maybe the stamped steel valve covers. 

Good luck with that nice cat!!

You can also use studs in the lower as i do. just a thought. I just assumed he was doing the lower. If just the upper that job takes about 30 minutes wearing boxing gloves!!

I guess you can't go wrong with doing it that way.  Are you using just 1/4-20 nuts from the hardware store? Or did you get them from an auto store? Because I looked (quickly) and didn't see any with the vinyl lined lock nuts from auto stores.

Thanks again for all the help guys!

Well here is some of the things i would do. Clean and chase all bolt holes. Make sure the mating surfaces are clean and slightly ruffed up. Just something i do i never use the front and rear lower intake gaskets. I use silicone. The sock gaskets just do not make it. Also use fast tack to secure the manifold side rails to the head. And when cleaning up the intake surface of the head be sure not to break the retaining tabs that hold the intake side gaskets. Just a tip!!

This is all great info nobody thinks about mentioning. It makes me question something though. Are we pulling both the upper and lower intake? As far as I know, there is no difference in the lower intake on the Mustang and the one on the Cat. I would just leave the lower alone. If you do pull it, I would line the lifter valley with rags while cleaning the gasket surfaces. Keep the debris out of the engine. Just don't forget to remove the rags before assembly!

X2 on the lowers being the same...

If the stang lower came with fuel injectors, there 19# and will not run with the stock s.o. computer that is tuned for 14#ers.

An h.o. upgrade isn't much more then heads intake and cam. You could probably get away with stock exhaust and upgrade to duals later down the road. Stock parts are cheap.

I was reading about the HO upgrade on coolcats. I plan on doing this in the future. I'm slowly getting the parts together. I just wanted to do these few things with the parts I have for now. I also already installed Shorty headers(a pain getting the bolts in right) and the BBK 2.5" X-pipe (No cat-back for now)

Do you have an HO upper/lower?

No, a tap cuts new threads where the old ones have been stripped or ruined. A chaser will clean foreign material out of existing threads without cutting into or creating a new(er) thread.

I'd use compressed air (dry, so no moisture) to blow out the bolt holes. Also the bore brushes (or whatever they're called) for oil passages, that sort of thing. You can't get a block clean enough before assembly.

Don't leave rags in the motor UGH lol

And don't use water to flush your engine, either. (remember THAT thread? lol)
What about the ass-pirate that poured NOS energy drink in his bike's tank because he thought it was really N2O, lmmfao.
Sadly these folks are capable of reproducing.
Anyhow, back to the topic: OP, you could also buy a small air tank, fill it at any gas station, and put a blower nozzle on the hose and use it. Would be a tedious process, take a few trips, but it's better than nothing at all. The brake cleaner is also a very good idea, and one I'll remember as well.

Dude !



I was doing a motor a while back and was hyped of on rock stars and used black rags to plug the intake ports on the heads while I cleaned it up

Well I got way ahead of my self and seals the intake ....... I didint notice the BLACK RAGS !! Lol

Dropped the motor in and shot rags out the long tubes UGH lol


Had to pull the heads and remove the valve because there were rags stuck in them


Point being don't drink a lot of energy drinks and use black rags lmfao

And don't use water to flush your engine, either. (remember THAT thread? lol)
What about the ass-pirate that poured NOS energy drink in his bike's tank because he thought it was really N2O, lmmfao.
Sadly these folks are capable of reproducing.
Anyhow, back to the topic: OP, you could also buy a small air tank, fill it at any gas station, and put a blower nozzle on the hose and use it. Would be a tedious process, take a few trips, but it's better than nothing at all. The brake cleaner is also a very good idea, and one I'll remember as well.

I guess you can't go wrong with doing it that way.  Are you using just 1/4-20 nuts from the hardware store? Or did you get them from an auto store? Because I looked (quickly) and didn't see any with the vinyl lined lock nuts from auto stores.

Thanks again for all the help guys!

I like to use acetone and different sers, scotchbrite pads, razorblades, etc to make sure my gasket surfaces are nice and clean.  I have this one ser that has a four sided stone piece that locks into the handle.  There are two flat/blade like surefaces on each side that can be flipped when one becomes dull, but each push or pull with the handle will remove gasket surface.  If I was smart, I could remember the name of the tool.

Don't leave rags in the motor UGH lol

I was thinking about going the brake cleaner route. Does sound like a pretty good idea.
NOS, Sand, Water?.....Things not so good for the energy. Would be good for making a cool sand castle though! haha.

Lots of good stuff here, keep 'em comin'!

Lots of good stuff here, keep 'em comin'!

I don't use Scotch Brite pads on any internal engine surfaces. I'm worried about getting any little bits of the pad that come off into the engine, no matter how small the fibers. I just worry that they'll get stuck in the engine somewhere and cause damage. I'm probably just being paranoid. I usually just use brake-clean and a razor gasket ser to clean gasket surfaces. It works for me.

Just a FYI: Target has Scotch Brite pads in a 6 pack for $4. The real ones not the generic ones. I use them around the garage and house all the time.

I don't use Scotch Brite pads on any internal engine surfaces. I'm worried about getting any little bits of the pad that come off into the engine, no matter how small the fibers. I just worry that they'll get stuck in the engine somewhere and cause damage. I'm probably just being paranoid. I usually just use brake-clean and a razor gasket ser to clean gasket surfaces. It works for me.

Just a FYI: Target has Scotch Brite pads in a 6 pack for $4. The real ones not the generic ones. I use them around the garage and house all the time.