:burnout::bowdown::bowdown:
The new Fusions have an electronic E-Brake. I haven't had a real close look yet, but I'd love to be able to integrate that system or one like it.
kk
I have no E-brakes on my 87....
Ac
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I havent found a good way to put them in yet. I would have to weld in new cable brackets under the rockers, and install the pivot bracket under the drivers seat...
I would like an alternative to doing all that if I can
Having lost brakes on work trucks and things like that, as well as driving a car without brakes once, I am all for having a woring ekmergency brake. I also like having a direct mechanical linkage, and don't like the idea of hydralics. Really all you need is a bit of pull on the cable. I would image just about anything can be modified to work in the place of the cable.
I however will continue to keep the cable emergency brakes. I would prefer a handle to the stupid pedal that 80's cars were cursed with though. But, I don't care to go through all the work of modifying it.
Something I found in a 1950 Dodge truck shop manual. I hope you can blow it up enough to read. They had a hydraulic parking brake.
They also had the drive shaft parking brake.
Crazy that electric one is the one i want. No cables and a snap to install and wire up.
look at the ford escorts from like say,, mid / late 1990's,, thier rear drum was electric if i recall correctly
reason i say this is i was working on my sisters escort and for some reason i had to start the car for it to work,, i may be wrong though.
Softtouch,,
that Hand Brake option on page 2 there reminds me of the brakes they use on washing machines to kill the spin cycle.
Of course the washing machine concept is inside out compared to what you show but i like the idea of "grasping" the drive shaft to lock the car down.
Its simple, and most always "simple" rules.
Could be wrong but i dont think so. Not 100% on this and i have worked on many. ?????
to tell you the truth, a hand lever ratchet would be a nice mod to include a "wrap around the drive shaft" concept.
it would need to be floor tunnel mounted though.
i like this idea actually.
my Ebrake is "auto" ebrake using vacuum , on the 20th that is. an odd feature that auto disconnects it when you go to D. it introduces a simple vac leak by momentarily opening a check valve and the foot lever on the side auto pops up.
your goal is to get rid of this though, just sayin...
Yes no mechanical brake at all. I want it completely hydraulic. BUT from what i read it wont work because the calipers wont handle constant pressure. So best bet is the mechanical electric unit for street rods on one wheel. That would eliminate a lot of hardware. But with a 4 WHEEL DISC setup like 6 piston Porsche that means no provision for a mechanical brake setup. And the lever brake units on the rear calipers SUCK as far as i am concerned. So far a MICRO BRAKE is where i am heading. Unless i can find a solenoid unit that retains the residual pressure in the system. So i think locking the 2 rear or one rear caliper is the answer. This cant be dun in states with state maintenance inspection. So now to find a solenoid like that 50 DODGE in 12 VOLTS?????
I've never even heard of an "electric brake" before. What happens if you park on an incline and for some reason your battery dies? Is there a set-up for Ford Cougars and Tbirds? Thanks!
Well in your cars that is most likely a GIVEN as fuse links seem to haunt you. Just kidding. No what happens is they are set with battery voltage and do not need power to hold. So if a fuse link blows in your car it wont roll down the HILL. THANK GOD!!!
Tom, I know your never going to let me live it down. Ok, so they ARE set on battery voltage. So, what happens If for some reason your battery dies?
NO WORRY'S 86 just funnin around. Everything is good!!!
Well the one i want is set with battery voltage and then released with battery. In either mode the battery is not in the circuit. Other wise it would drain down the battery overnight. And if it had to hold the pintle open with battery if it failed you would be stuck with the brakes on i would imagine. I have to research this further. But if yiu read the info about the 50 DODGE unit it explains it has no current draw in either mode. That is what i want but only in 12 VOLTS OF COURSE!!!
You've probably already seen this, but here is my hydraulic hand brake setup. It has its own master cylinder and is simply piped in line with the existing rear brake line. When it is not in use fluid passes through it like its not there. You could obviously install it in a more conventional position if your not planning to use it for racing. This one is made by CNC.
(http://sphotos-g.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/21799_10151546041088222_1885958201_n.jpg)
(http://sphotos-f.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/407668_10151490126393222_59156617_n.jpg)
It seems like it wouldn't be very hard to find a manual valve to put inline with the rear feed. Hold the brake, close the valve, brake set, open valve, brake released. Old Saabs had a separate caliper on each front brake that was a parking brake. I can't remember if they were hydraulic or not, I haven't worked on a Saab since 2001.
An electric would still be coolest, I think.
I'm thinking about a machined aluminum block, with the cable leading in, an actuator motor that pulls the cable tight, and maybe the cable is attached to a ratcheting shaft with a release solenoid on the fingers. The motor pulls to a set amperage then stops and depowers allowing the cable to rest against the lock. To release, the motor actuates again simultaneously with the solenoid. The actuator pulls to max amperage (won't take long as the cable is already tight) then releases (with the solenoid powered) allowing the cable to fully relax, the cable touches a limit switch and the solenoid depowers.
My buddy has relatively new VW Passat and it's equipped with electric parking brake. It works like a servo and keeps locked in end positions. I guess it has a worm gear, because it takes about 2 seconds to engage or disengage. Of course, this setup doesn't need permanent power.
Here is what i am going for.
http://www.mico.com/store/brake-locks
those prices are insane....
That is pricey, but its nice that it automatically maintains pressure
I know you're pretty savvy with whipping up some neat little do-dads maybe you can whip up somthing that connects to the factory pedal like a micro switch or somthing that's on somewhat of an isolated circuit that dowesn pull to much of a draw on the battery like a cellphone charger. Use som small throw actuators like some iroc body styled camaros used on their hatch to shut it? Just an oddball idea. You don't need a lot of pull just enough though maybe some door lock actuators? Doesn't have to be a constant power that way. Thoughts?
thats what i was thinking also, should not "need" to draw power to lock in, could be like a mechanical paw so to speak.
I agree, prices are insane.
Not really expensive as long as it works.
I used to hang out with some rock crawler guys. They have problems with getting e-brakes to work with there big 38" tires and stock toyota brakes.
Aot of them buy a disc brake assembly that bolts directly to the driveshaft that you mount a caliper onto either your rear end or tail housing.this was is simple to add, and also fairly cheap. I personally wouldn't want to add the rotational mass to the driveline, but with hydralics on a fixed brake, I really don't see it having to be that large or strong for a emergency stop, or kepping the car put.