I just changed my plugs on the cougar and I'd say the old plugs where at least 10 years old. The car was garage kept but had set for long periods of time. I was checking out the engine in the dark to see if I had any arcing and 3 of the wires along with the distibutor wire were arcing. I think I still have the original ford wires and distributor cap.
I had a friend recommend going to the Acell 8.8 mm wires. He said he couldn't believe the difference in his throttle response. I plan on changing the cap and rotor as well.
Does anyone see an advantage to these over say a set of Bosch 8mm wires?
The price is quite a bit more but I wouldn't mind it if it makes a difference.
http://accel-ignition.com/8-8mm-graphite-custom-fit.html
I changed out my old 86's "motorcraft 1985" wires and put in some "racing" thick and super expensive wires, and spiffy spark plugs when I was 16. Car had 238k or so on it, and made no differance. None at all. The coil was badly rusting and seperating, and that $20 or so made a huge differance.
There is a place for "good" wires and plugs, but not enough to matter on 90% of cars.I run $1.99 copper plugs and cheapest replacment wires on my cars.
I like the Taylor wires.
I run FRPP 9mm custom fits on mine. I got them when I was running my HO, but that motor wasn't healthy and I didn't notice a difference. I carried them over to my GT40 setup when the HO came apart, and the GT40 is REAL healthy, but I never ran that setup without them so I can't tell you if they really make any difference on that either. I will tell you there is a noticeable difference running at 14 degrees BTDC vs. running 10 degrees BTDC (stock). With that timing and 89 octane I might see a difference in the wires if I ran something else to compare it to, but it's not worth the trouble to me to know.
You want these: http://www.fordracingparts.com/parts/part_details.asp?PartKeyField=2553 and a set of copper Motorcraft plugs. That will make your car run at it's best.
What is wrong with stock wires??? Never tested a car that with a wire change made one bit of difference in performance. Either the plugs fire of they dont. Funny i was tuning a TOYOTA Friday and their plug wires are as skinny as PENCILS. They work fine. Save your money and buy a set of MOTOR CRAFT WIRES. THEY WORK!!! Those so called BULLET PROOF wires touched by GOD are just a bunch of BS and a waste of money!!! Just me could be wrong!!!
STORY
:hick::mullet::burnout:
The last time I used Bosh wires, it made it look like a miniature welder's convention under my hood. Replaced them with the same ones Foe was talking about. No problem since. You may need better than stock if you have an aftermarket ignition system, but otherwise, anything from Ford is just fine. The main thing to remember about spark is it must happen, and at the right time.
It sounds like most don't think the accel wires would do anything more then a set of ford wires.
The thing is if I buy online I can get a set of of 10.8 mm accel wires for about $50, a set of 8.8mm for the same price (different site) a set of 8mm Bosch at autozone for $33 plus tax or a set of 7mm ford wires for around $42 plus tax. I'm sure I could find a million other wires and prices to compare to but the only set that's much less is the Bosch. I'm kind of thinking if I have nothing to lose that I might as well go with the 8.8 or 10.8 mm wires over the 7mm ford wires.
HIS NAME WAS WILLIAM TYLER JENKINS!!!!
Grumpy Jenkins? Awesome !!!
...X2, except I had to use shorty plugs to clear my headers.
I've used Accel wires for years. They are a good wire. What I liked about them was that I would buy the universal V8 set and cut to size for my Mazda 4 banger and still have plenty of wire left over for my other projects. They used to cost me about $30-$35 back then.
I guess what I'm looking at is that I have to replace my wires anyway and since I can get the heavier gauged and insulated wires for about the same price, why not? I doubt if they'd be any worse then stock 7mm wires and may give some minor advantage at least in the heavier insulation. At first I though the price was a lot more but since it's not, why wouldn't I want to buy the heavier gauge wire?
GOOD answer and i respect that. Just wanted to let people know they dont need 100 dollar plug wires. I can understand them as an impression factor. But impressions are to the beholder. If you are good with that That is great. But more times than not the aftermarket stuff is GARBAGE. Thanks Tom
"Low-resistance" conductors are an easy sell, as most people associate all ignition wire conductors with original equipment and replacement ignition wire carbon conductors (which progressively fail as a result of microscopic carbon granules burning away and thus reducing the spark energy to the spark plugs) and with solid wire zero-resistance conductors that were used by racers with no need for suppression. Consumers are easily led into believing that if a spiral conductor's resistance is almost zero, its performance must be similar to that of a solid metal conductor all race cars once used. HOWEVER, NOTHING IS FURTHER FROM THE TRUTH!
Good information! As always on about any forum, you have the purist and the guy's who are always looking for something better. I for one am not convinced that all aftermarket products are garbage. If you look under the hood of most of the guy's who race, I would be willing to bet that they are not racing with the stock items that the car came with. I don't hear anybody knocking aftermarket pistons, roller rockers, ect.. Sure there is a lot of "snake oil" in the automotive market, just like any thing else. How long would it take for a set of Accel wires to deteriorate? Doesn't stock wires also deteriorate? A price on a set of original wires might cost about the same as a set of Accel wires. I believe that building one's own car allows us to be creative. Not every one want's to go down to the dealership and buy their dream car, drive down the street and see the same car, same color, same engine, ect.. Just a thought.
What ever. To tired to go in to it!!! But the new cobra with 658 Hp does quite well dont you think!!!!
I believe aftermarket ignition boxes are a waste of money. However, aftermarket coils can produce more spark. More spark is just that. Stronger spark will not create more power. It just ignites the air/fuel. The air/fuel is where the real power is at. With that being said, some of the aftermarket coils can be some real nice pieces that just happen to make more spark. With more spark you must have a well insulated plug wire to prevent arching. Nothing wrong with a completely stock ignition system. It will produce the same power as aftermarket. Some of the aftermarket stuff my possibly out last the factory stuff due to the fact that car companies will go as cheap as they can. 86 made another fine point. Aftermarket also allows a more presentable look under the hood. The Taylor wires that Vinnie uses are great for that. They are a good quality wire that is available in many different colors.
This is good stuff. Insulation is the only major advantage. Tom has a good point though. No need to spend a fortune. If the price is right, go for it.
Chrome several 2.3 TC owners used aftermarket High performance coils. Only to have a high compression load miss fire.(SPARK BLOW OUT). But some say the COP aftermarket coils are better than stock FORD. Only issue is the aftermarket stuff has to be comparable in price. Now the High Performance stuff claims more energy. Is that Current or voltage??? If you have a TFI ignition system better be ware as primary and secondary voltage and current load plays havoc on the TFI system. If you want a TFI system to work better keep it in tune. Otherwise some night the flat bed and you will be good friends. Also many car companies specify special plugs. Installing the wrong plugs in some NISSAN'S will blow the coil packs. So be advised bigger is not always better. just me could be mistaken!!!
NOTE i spend many hours on the cylinder scope and scope patterns. I have found no difference in spark voltage with or without a high performance coil. With a gap of lets say .040 the coil can only produce so much voltage. It seems like the gap dictates the voltage. If the gap increases the voltage goes up. This is void of the mixture present. Because that does also make a difference. Case in point an open plug wire will blast the scope voltage pattern of the screen. When i see excessive voltage on a particular cylinder it normally means a bad wire or excessive gap or a mixture issue in that cylinder. So if you want to increase your voltage at the plug increase it's GAP!!! That is what the HEI ignition systems did. They raised the voltage and increased the gap. If you are running a high performance coil capable of more voltage increasing the gap is where it is at. If not the stock system is totally adequate. But you put xcessive loads on the primary trigger system. And that blows modules left and right. Stock modern closed ended wafer coils are at their best. Other than COP the coils are able to produce enough spark for just about any engine combination. Thanks
The stock ford of my choice has always been the GT40. I would leave it alone and drive it as is.
Tom, I think you missed what I was trying to say. The high performance coils I believe could out last the factory because they are built well. I view the extra voltage as a by-product. They do create more voltage, or they would not be causing all the damage you are talking about. I would suggest to not go overboard on picking the coil. You also said HEI increased the gap. Not so. It increased voltage in order to jump the larger gap that can only be made larger by manually increasing it. Don't know why you mention the dangers of using different plugs. I recommend to never ever run anything other than factory. Aftermarket products are wonderful because you do not have to deal with the local Ford parts department. If you go aftermarket, you better go with the high performance stuff, or you just get . I feel we are getting off track of the OP's question. To answer that question, which we have done already, the only gain to performance plug wires is insulation. He just should not break the bank for the extra insulation.
Some of that factory stuff lasts a ed long time,
True........... But the performance stuff will run better and last longer than the cheap aftermarket stuff.
Bosch=Bad
Since the subject of spark gap came up. What would be the best gap for a 1988 5.0? My old plugs seemed to be set at .54, but I looked it up online on a couple of sites and it was listed at .50. My emissions tag shows .48-.52, so I went with .50.
:burnout:
The problem with the TFI module (from the OE point of view) is it's mounting. On our cars and other older TFI vehicles, it's mounted to the distributor and it collects a lot of heat there. This is why in 89 and on you see the TFI remote mounted in a heatsink. I've got one of these sitting around waiting for my ambition to catch up. I'm going to remote mount my TFI in a lapped heatsink with Arctic Silver 5. I'll probably mount it to the inner fender behind the headlight where it can get some airflow across it.
My old 86 had 1985 motorcraft wires on it when I did plugs and wires at 235k.
Not any high performance motor or anything, but i'd like to see some aftermarket wires hold up to the same claim. Engine ran smoth as can be, ate 2 quarts of oil a tank, but flew through emissions and never missed till I started messing with it as a 16 year old kid.
I actually really like bosch parts, mainly because they are a builder and supplier of stock and oem parts...
6 VOLTS!!!!!, Tom you should be ashamed. You know better! The purpose of a coil is to multiply voltage. Otherwise, a coil would not be needed. It takes at least 15,000 volts for electricity of this amperage to jump the gap of a spark plug. Car companies shot for 20,000 volts. When HEI came out, voltage went to 40,000 +. That is automotive basics that can be learned first year at an automotive school.
I believe tom was talking about the old style coils and electrical systems that fed the coil, not the output from the spark plugs.
And electricity will jump .40 at much less the 40kv, but amerage and strain on the electrical components will greatly increase to hadle the additional load. I gap my plugs anywhere from .35-.45. Generally I open a package of 4, mesure what there gapped at, then match them all to the same gap.
This.
Only thing I can add, is there is aftermarket ignition systems that usually involve changing the dizzy, that can work just as well as factory and can take the heat.
Possibly, however, if you hook yourself up with that business, you can't come here asking for help and expect anybody to know what you've got going on. You throw out the known constants and introduce unknown variables.
Just ask 86cougar how HIS ignition is working out for him.
Noooo, I was not referring to the "magic boxes" which are for making multiple sparks, rev limiting, and all that fancy . Ignition systems should be kept simple. A switching device is all that's needed.
I've been busy. I didn't tell you that my car starts right up and runs better than before. Yes, I threw my stock distributor in the trash. Problem was the idle adjustment on my stock throttle body.
I w
oo
http://mallory-ignition.com/dist-ford-221-302-st-hei-wcoil.html (http://"http://mallory-ignition.com/dist-ford-221-302-st-hei-wcoil.html")
Didn't spend a hole lot of time on this, but this looks nice. I understand Pertronix does well too. Not to mention DUI.
There are places where they would set your distributor up for you. They should now by experience what distributor will work best with your engine and have the equipment to test it. From what I understand though is that is mostly if your distributor used weights. Tom and TFYK most likely have access to the equipment you would need.
For dizzys with mechanical advance, weights are available from the manufacturer that made the dizzy. All that is needed to test it is a timing light with a dial. Most dizzys are close, unless there has been a major cam change.
I feel once again this is getting off topic. The point I was trying to make is, with an aftermarket ignition system that produces more electrical power than factory, better plug wires are needed. When I say better, I mean more insulation. Otherwise, spark will fly out of the wires way before it gets to the plugs. Weather or not aftermarket ignition systems are better is not relevant to the point I have been trying to make. If the ignition system is stock, Accel wires will not hurt anything. Not much will be gained, but nothing will be lost either. Especially if they are purchased for a good price.
Wow...hope the OP got some new plug wires. If you are still shopping I would recommend the Ford Racing 9mm wires. Can be had cheap if you look and they come in blue, yellow, red, or gray.
http://www.summitracing.com/search/year/1993/make/ford/model/mustang/brand/ford-racing?keyword=ford%20racing%20plug%20wires
But I do have to say that MSD digital boxes are far superior to the stock ignition systems if you are running more than a stock motor. Its nice to be able to back out timing on individual cylinders, back timing off for nitrous or boosted cars, set up windows to activate relays, etc. You do need a laptop to do all this but that is the world we live in. I still run a MSD 6AL's on my Coupe and the Bird with MSD coils and the 9mm Motorsport plug wires, no complaints.
Darren
No, I still haven't bought anything yet. I have my Cougar with a friend who is a lifetime bodyshop mgr. He's taking off the front bumper to repaint it and painting a real spoiler that I'm adding. The rest of the original paint is still in great shape. Once I get it back it'll stay in my garage all winter since I can't drive it where I live in the mountians for the next few months. I'll order the wires soon, I was going to go with the Accel's but the Ford 9mm wires from the site you listed are even less then the stock ford wires. I'm going to look into those.
Thanks: Charlie
Dear god, where were you earlier!
Those 9mm motorsport wires are really nice.
Sorry about the mess me and Tom made of your thread.
I like to lurk around and then jump in and either save the day or pour gasoline on the fire. Kind of a moody mofookie I guess.
Darren
Jebus guys I posted the FRPP wires on page one :hick:.
Yeah, we saw that prior to Tom's on going rant on aftermarket parts. I agree with your choice of plugs and wires completely. That is what I have on my truck. I will put those wires on my Bird when I get the chance.
GOT IT PRETTY WIRES!!! AND SPECIAL PLUGS!!!
BUILT IN THE BLACK FOREST BY LITTLE ELVES!!!
:bowdown::bowdown::bowdown::bowdown::bowdown:
It's not that they only look great under the hood, truth is that most wires out there probably exceed what is needed for most street cars. That's a good thing, because it means we have a lot to chose from. I have 9mm insulated wires on my stock engine and I got a good deal on them. I'm sure they are more than I need.
Just having some fun 86 dont worry. But being though you responded and i truly respect that. I tried to explain primary current loads in ignition systems with factual inf. I tried to do this as to inform others and get them thinking. Example when the plug gaps go up in a system the primary current goes up 2X more. I have set up test stands and have actually dun extensive testing. This is from experience and making mistakes in my career. Example i towed in a mustang when i was a very young guy and replaced a burnt out TFI module. To my amazement it went bad several weeks later. I replaced it again and the same thing happened some weeks later also. So i dug in to the system and found a bad plug wire with the cylinder scope. This was before i started thinking about troubles. like why did it fail?? So i replaced the plugs and wires along with a cap and rotor. Presto the car went out of the shop and drove on for years. So it got me thinking why did that happen. So i set up a test bench with a DIZZY a coil and 6 spark plugs. I spun the dizzy in the SUN MACHINE and plotted the current draw. Well i found out that with the gaps set at like .100 the primary current sky rocketed in the primary of the coil circuit. This put a big load on the TFI. Which had to handle the extra current. With that i gaped the plugs at .025. The primary current went down more than half. I get pissed off when people say i RANT. Or call me a troll. Or say things about my SON or try and say i have issues with other sites. We all make mistakes in life but if you or anyone else can say i give out BS info or that i do not try and help people i will take that advice. But if people that do not work in this business and try and tell me that experience IS BS then they have issues. So thanks for being good enough to respond and just for the record i use Motor Craft ignition wires. But i think if people post and everyone has different ideas and ways to do things that is what sharing info is all about. I always like to share mods i do and info i think is necessary. With that now you know why a TUNE IS IMPORTANT ON A TFI IGNITION SYSTEM, And i find it funny that i actually have only a couple of cars with plug wires. And the ones that do are very short. COP AND CNP are the norm today. Young people wont even know what plug wires are along with a timing light. Havent use a timing light in god knows how long. As for plug wires they are going the way of Ignition points. And for those magic boxes that cost a fortune What can i say . Well it is time to go home and close the shop. But the garbage has to go out
(http://i740.photobucket.com/albums/xx46/proguns/001-151.jpg)
makes sense tom,, like in the utility side of your electrical service. if your linear and non-linear loads go up on the secondary, well,, depending on the turns ratio and potential on the primary,,, something has to give. more load = more current draw.
im always telling my boys they are pushing the envelope gaping plugs on the 5.0 to more than .050. this is a fairly safe gap to protect the coil and all things considered that the coil gets trigger signals from.
Have you ever for a moment been curious about why the Stator or Pick up down in the dizzy fails?
I did and found that the with a razor knife, you can hack away at the rubber chunk till you get to whats in there. there is nothign in there but a terminal block wiwth three pins to interface the hull effect to the TFI,,however............. the black wire is bonded in two places. its bonded to a female pin in the stator and as well, someone during manufacturing solders a jumper from the black wire to the metal mounting braket.>>this is where i have seen two out of two failures.
the solder connection to the metal bracket becomes loose or corroded and you no longer have the ground part of your hull effect.
check it out some time.
Most electronic components are considered bad as i have found out not because the component or the electronics have failed but the connections. With the GM HEI the connections get dirty. Years ago i proved this to my DAD. The EARLY hei used a stator with just clips connecting to the module. Later units used a plastic connector over the female spades. This reduced the corrosion and vibration losses and bad connections. We had an OLDS towed in the shop many years ago with an HEI no spark condition. Now POP was a points guy and pulled the dizzy. He looked inside and was a little set back. So he handed it to me. I have had many apart and i set it in the SUN machine. Spun it and no spark. I removed the spade tips and cleaned them and presto the GM IGNITION SYSTEM CAME TO LIFE. POP was shocked. This does not count the stators that fail from lead failure by cycling the Vacuum advance. That issue was a failure because of fatigue on the leads. But i never used the vacuum units anyway when i tuned a car. I always RE-CURVED them and eliminated the vacuum unit. They were a waste of time any way and once dun the leads were safe. With that i replaced the components and ran a little solder in the connections and off the OLDS WENT!!! I also do this with FUEL PUMPS. Many times a component is changed and the trouble is corrected. Not because that component is bad but because repacing it cleans the contacts. Today we have a different issue. Parts obsolesce Example the tank pump replacement assemblies are coming from places like Taiwan AND KOREA. They are direct replacements and FAIL. Quality control and parts are junk. Below is an example of a unit i had to modify.
(http://i740.photobucket.com/albums/xx46/proguns/008-12.jpg)
Here is the FIX bridge the power feeds together and use the body for the grounds. This solves the issue of GARBAGE FOREIGN JUNK. IS THAT NOT WHAT WE ARE ARGUING ABOUT ON ANOTHER POST. Garbage imports that have inferior components and assembly ??????? The later GM part lasted 140 Thousand miles. It was replaced with this foreign made junk that lasted 6 MONTHS????? Their is something to be said about MADE IN AMERICA. And by the way this AMERICAN modified this tank unit so it actually works!!!!! You SEE MY POINT!!! Thanks Jay
(http://i740.photobucket.com/albums/xx46/proguns/011-5.jpg)
JAY just a question??? Where does these aftermarket manufacturers get their wires FROM????? ACCEL does not make wires. Has anyone wondered where the components actually come from??? I HAVE!!!
Tom,
Great information! When this country was bailing all the car companies out, I don't think Ford took a dime, but from what I saw on the news was that Ford had moved, or built one of their plants in another country. I believe it had to do with paying American taxes. So, how many Ford plants are in America and which products are built here in America? Is the Ford Racing products all built here or are they built in other countries and is their product built to the same standard as when they are built here? I remember seeing a circuit board at work one day that was going on one of our American missiles that had a tag on it that said "China" on it. Corporate America .....I curious to see what they will do now (IF) they do have to start paying taxes.
they come from the lowest bidder because "cheaper is gooder"
????? ok, ill bite,, im curious.
Ok years ago cars had DIZZYS with both Vacuum advance units along with mechanical advance units. So in order to use low octane fuels they delayed the mechanical advance and also used a delay vacuum advance as well. So when i did a tune up on these cars i would disconnect the VACUUM units and remove them and use only the mechanical advance for spark advance. I would dial in app 11* in the DIZZY all in at 2200-2500 and 12- 16* at the wheel. This way the spark would be in it"s maximum advance without ping (SPARK KNOCK). Did this for years and with the vacuum advance removed and the advance plate locked down the dizzy was a full mechanical advance unit. Did this for many years and it would take the stress off those stator wires. They no longer moved. Many a car would come in to the shop with intermittent spark as the advance unit pulled on the stator wires and they opened up. Another words when advanced plate moved the reluctor went open. Hope this explains it.
yes, you did answer, a little over my head but it helped me understand something pointless about the "OCTANE" rod on our cars startor units down in the dizzy.
it doesnt adjust anything really, unless you do some minor changes to how the stator mounts.
sorry for getting off topic.........
Jay the octane strap has numbers on it to indicate the advance or retard. Ford thought it would be easier to set the timing with these strips as apposed to timing the engine with a light. I dont know anyone that actually used them. And i never ordered one. Easier to just grab the light and spin the DIZZY. The timing strips advance and or retard the timing by moving the PIP Or hall effect mount and in turn this adjusts the timing without spinning the DIZZY. Moving the plate adjusts the timing like a VACUUM ADVANCE Used to.
I have never and will never post anything about your son or any other of your family members. I don't care about what you do on other sites and don't plan on hunting you down around the world wide web. When you go on and on and on about something, just because you saw a hint of something you don't like, and don't even pay attention to all the info in other people's posts, I would consider that a rant. In post # 48 you made fun of my endorsp00get of the plugs and wires mentioned on post#5. Those are wires manufactured by Ford Motorsport and plugs that are in fact factory. The spikes that you see on your scope are due to a failed part. Most likely the plug wires. This is why I say the high performance ignition parts need the high performance wires to go with them. Too much energy will cause the wires to fail. This failure will kill the TFI, which you mention in the post I am replying to. For a stock ignition system, the better wires will not hurt anything. As for your info being BS, I think your thought process is correct, it just doesn't always make it to the keyboard. Perhaps it is due to the amount of info rattling around in that head of yours. Or, then again, maybe if you could just calm down a bit......
I can't say anything negative about your past few posts. Very informative. I just wish you could hear what other people have to say and just add to it. I cuss aftermarket spark plugs all the time. I guess that is why I hate Bosh so much. Back at the dealership, I don't know how many times I have worked on a car that just had plugs replaced, and had to explain why they need new plugs. Local parts stores claim Bosh plugs are the best thing ever. The customer puts them in, and when it fails, on to the repair shop it goes.
Just a side note, I read that Ford fixed the TFI's failing due to the heat load. Not sure what they did but remote mounting it is no longer something the Mustang guys are doing as the fix is in the module itself. Again, just something I have read on a couple of the sites. Other than than great discussion, man I learned a lot but that is not unusual.
Darren
Yes. And if you increase the power output, the power will try to "escape" the wires. The end result is the same as too much gap or bad plug. May or may not be bad enough to cause a miss, but will be hard on the TFI for sure. This is where the added insulation on the wires is key.
Good to know. When did they upgrade it?
yeah, when was this fixed?
I'm reading a lot about TFI failure. What are the symptoms? Will the car still run?
No, much of it is coming from China.
typically no spark or weak spark are symptoms of a failed TFI
Tom, I hope you know that I was not trying to offend you in any way. I just wanted to make a point. Truth is Americans don't really know what to believe any more. Mom and Pop shops!!
I don't have any documentation to support the revision as it is just what I have read on some of the boards. I will do some digging around and see if I can come up with anything. I did come across this document a while back and it was a good read:
http://www.myo-p.com/Ford-EEC/EEC%20Help%20files/Files/TFI_grey_or_black.html
And Joel has a really good do it yourself diagnostic write up on how to test the components here:
http://351winsor.com/joel/Ignition_Systems/tfi2.html
Darren
86 no worries just a discussion. Been their before. What i can tell you is i am just passing on info from my experience in this field. This business is a tough one and it survived 4 generations now. Dont worry i will be reading the posts and enjoying this site for a long time. I wont be posting in great detail any more as i am just laying back and concentrating on business. I am not posting any more of my Mods either. I think that makes some people mad as i was told by others on other sites. Why only the Lord knows. Thank you.
Note each and every electronic device on this planet is heat sensitive to my knowledge. With cars it is a big issue at times. According to Standard Motor products the TFI mode has been unchanged in design since the gray module. No need to make them any more reliable as the system is Quite Obsolete.
:burnout:
I will go with what Tom is saying about the TFI modules as all I can find is hearsay so chalk it up to internet folk lore at this point.
Darren
the mod posts are enjoyable and great to see, we get board with our obsolete systems sometimes and to find an improvment is great.
its not the posts but the static electricity that draws debris in from some posts.
your not allowed to speak your opinion and debate it with everyone nor substantiate it either. you are suppose to be enlightened by eveyrone elses opinions and change yours ,, such is the way of our nation today.
in so many cases the so called bashing posts are as a result of someone else crossing a line that futher caused you to have to come back,, but you didnt have to and thats the point i'll make. people stoped appreciating knowledge base along time ago because they represent people who have too much ability. People dont like people with great amounts of ability today because having people around who know stuff decreases the odds of everyone else being able to help you,, therefore your god like composure is insulting because the other people dont feel as useful.
i dont know everything nor do you but i will say this......
i would hope that given a choice, the members of this board would rather have you working on thier car if they could. Having said that, how much respect does this truely deserve?
you say what you say because in **most of the cases you cite** you have earned the right. (not only you but many others on this board). Aspriing to be like someone is unfortunatly a faded memory and it will work well for a few more decades until at some magic point someone has a brilliant idea,, "hey, hows about we start listening"
your are rich in your knowledge and you know how much rich people are liked today.
it is a sad day when a person can aspire to be the best and then willing to share it with anyone anytime,only to be kicked in the balls for doing it decades later.
the biggest problem with electronic communications formats is that "tone" doesnt carry through so there is no emotional connection, saying someing in a typed sentence comes off much differntly than in person, people foget that to... certainly most of the time my tone is abrasive but i am saying this post in a pleading manner simply stating fact and here in person, it sounds fair and honest.
so, dont post mods, no one said not to, thats your choice