Fox T-Bird/Cougar Forums

I know that when I changed the starter for a new one I had to rearrange the wiring. Yesterday and today my car would start just fine and would run. Yesterday, when I first started it I moved the distributor one tooth and it ran great! I saw no smoke coming from my exhaust (intake manifold gasket, OIL LOOKS GOOD!) but then the idle got a little rough. This morning I put the charcoal canister back on and it acted like it wasn't getting any gas at first then it started, again no smoke coming out the exhaust but still a little rough at idle.  I went to check out my adjustment on my transmission shifts (another problem), trying to listen to a "click" between park, reverse, neutral, ect., and when I put my ignition in accessories, I heard a pop and saw smoke under the hood. I must have a short somewhere. No rest for the wicked....I must have been a rotten kid!

Well, I think I have the shift problem fixed. Now I need to figure out the electrical problem. I tried to find anything that felt hot in the wiring when it happened, but no luck.

could have been a fuse link that went pop.

its hard to really tell until you have the key in run with everything on and figure out what is not working correctly.

the fuse links get kinda tricy to,

I had a friend come over to give me a hand. What we did was check all the electrical in the area where I saw smoke and we did not find anything. I took the cover off the electronic module and I didn't see anything or smell anything that smelled burnt. I took a continuity tester and stuck a needle around fuse links and one beeped while two others medium yellow wires (one had a yellow wire and a black wire) but both were bad. We tried to find a schematic that showed us the value of the fuses and we could not find one. On the fuses they only said "16 gauge". They are a sealed fuse so I will have to cut them open to see. They also both connect into the same connector from there they go into the body on the drivers side by the battery. So, hopefully we found the source of the smoke. The schematic that I saw on jassity's photo bucket is for a 2.3 not a 5.0 so I still need a schematic to trace the problem. Oh, at first we tried to cause it to smoke again by leaving the ignition on "accessories" but we got nothing. What I did find out is it did not appear to be getting voltage to the fuel injectors and the car did not start like it did yesterday.

Fusible links are not sized by amperage, but by wire gauge size, one size smaller than the wire that they protect.  If you have a 16 gauge fusible link, it is most likely protecting a 14 gauge wire.  Jcasitty also has the entire EVTM online, which covers 2.3,2.8 and 5.0 circuits, though not usually on the same page.

I found the schematic for my car, tomorrow I will try to figure out where those yellow wires go. Thanks!

If you blew a fuse link you have something grounding out. Try disconnecting and seperating them and back feed the links. I pulled the print on an 86 and found orange links but no yellow. I do remember yellow on the midnighter (1988 TC) They most likely feed the alt or the main power distribution points. If the links blew look for anything that is chafed to mettal or pinched in the engine compartment. A bad alt can do this very easily. Normally you can use a signal flasher in series with the link to identify where the grounded wire is. Use a heat gun to trace the wires or harness. The flasher heats up the wire and with a heat gun you can trace it. When the wire cools down you found your Grounded wire or shorted component!!

The other day when I started up the car I noticed that my gauge was reading about 60 amps. continuously instead of the usual 30 amps.(30 amps. then it drops off). I've never dealt with this type of fuse link, I take it they can be bought at any parts store? I have a lifetime warranty on the alternator, so I will take it off and have it checked out. That's funny that yellow wires were not on the schematic, these are a bright yellow. When my friend took the connector apart that they went into, he said there were two larger tabs that were for a large amount of electricity, that must have been for them. Thanks!

I wouldn't say ANY part store, but they are found in almost every automobile made.  They are not a high failure item though, thus not usually on the sales floor. Ask for them at the parts counter just as you would for o-rings, snap rings, hose by the foot, etc.

I looked under the hood this morning and the yellow wire appears to be the color of the fuse links. From the connector I have one yellow and a black wire going through the fuse and it comes out only one black wire on the other side, another yellow wire go through a fuse link and come out black on the other side and a there is a black wire that goes through a fuse link and comes out black. Only one other wire, a red with white or blue (hard to tell) goes to the key position on my starter relay. All the black wires connect together as one (ground is my guess). The black wires connect to two more fuse links, one that come out as black/ orange stripe and the other yellow. It appears those two go into the passenger side of the firewall. well now it's time for me to try to make some sense out of this. Thanks!

On my schematic it looks like the red/ light blue wire goes to my neutral switch, and I know being my shifter is all out of whack it is not working right. I need to go see what happened to my shift linkage. I don't have a "click" between shifts, but I can't see how that would create a short.

Here you go. Use a maxi fuse or just use a regular piece of wire that is 2-3 sizes smaller than the size wire you want to protect. Normally i protect a number 10 wire with a 14.

(http://i600.photobucket.com/albums/tt88/tomrenzo/008-2.jpg)
.

Today, I cut the two fuse links out of my harness that I thought were bad and when I cut them open they were still soldered together. Maybe the voltage was too low to do a complete melt down and only smoked?? My friend said he saw only about 2-3 volts going through one wire (short in ground).

 Not following this one bit????????????????

I had two fuse links that I thought were bad. So I took them out of the harness and cut them open (little black boxes). The wires were still soldered together. I'm trying to figure out where the smoke I saw came from. I wondering if the voltage going through a ground cable was low enough to cause the solder to smoke and not actually burn the wire?

Either the links are good or bad on this one Just saying ??????

your misunderstanding the fuse links.

the black sealed block you see is splice point.
i disagree ~slightly~ that they are not a high failure item.

People dont realize that the fuse links are solid conductors,, not stranded flex.
they are not meant to be moved around a lot or bent up to dress in and such. 

when you find a bad fuse link by way of your continuity test, just cut off the whole wire section even if that section consists of one or two fuse links that are good.
you dont have a choice in the matter so do it right.

finding fuse links is easy..just go to lowes, home depot or an electrical supply house and ask for the proper guage wire in **SOL** meaning solid,, not ***STR meaning stranded.
You then want to ask for 90degC rated wire or even higher temp rating if available.
the easy way to tell stranded wire from flex is that flex bends easy, stranded does not. 
I honestly dont see any reason **not** to use flex in this case as typically flex has a higher current carrying capaicty than its equivilant STR wire.
STR wire is more calibrated though in that its predictable ampacity rating / tolerance is more in line with the original application so its your choice.

you also have the choice then to pick your color.


next you find a crimp lug from the same electrical supply house with a ***LONG BARREL
cut off the tang of the lug (the part the bolt goes through),,,, or find a barrel splice big enough to hold your incoming wire and your out going fuse links.

next, find some rubber hose that you can ultimatly slid up over your barrel splice.  you want to have this new 1'' or so section of rubber line slipped up on your yellow wire first then do your barrel splice.

next crimp your conductors then slide the rubber hose section over the barrel splice then insulate with an additional layer of rubber tape or good quality 3m vinal.

all done.

or......you can mail it to me and i will fix you right up.  304 772 3411.


ps,,,,dont foget to add "No-ox-id" or anti corrosion compund to the conductors prior to inserting into your barrel splice.

basic terms here,, cut out the splices and resplice in new stuff as required.

you have an 86evtm in my diy link,, per the upload done by Trinom.
there's all the wiring diagrams you need

im thinkin your stuff just decided to blow.,,could be any reason such as low battery voltage when you powered something up ect.
if voltage is low, the device that is being powered doesnt care,, it will inturn draw more current if said current is available.

watts is watts,, you cant change that part of ohms law.
the only thing you can change is voltage, current or resistivity.

 
im thinkin your stuff just decided to blow.,,could be any reason such as low battery voltage when you powered something up ect.
if voltage is low, the device that is being powered doesnt care,, it will inturn draw more current if said current is available.

watts is watts,, you cant change that part of ohms law.
the only thing you can change is voltage, current or resistivity.

I just don't get it. When I had the fuse links on the car, I tested them and only one out of three showed continuity. When I took the two bad ones out and took them apart the wire was still good. They are stranded wire and the black boxes said 16 gauge. My friend and I were discussing the smoke that I saw and neither one of us could find anything that looked burnt or melted. We did check everything for voltage with the accessories turned on and off, but nothing. I think my only hope is to get the transmission set up to where the neutral switch is functioning properly, then see if we can get it to do it again (accessory on) with someone under the hood to watch for smoke. Problem is, it took about 15 minutes for it to occur the first time and about an hour the second time. Jcassity, I appreciate your help and offer. Once I figure this mystery out, I will follow your instructions and make some nice fuse links. Thanks!

http://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?11603-smoking-wire!-o-noes! I found this a few days ago, sounds familiar. Well, it looks like I'm on the right path.

if you had no continuity across any fuse link and you feel like the conductor is not broken anywhere, then the only remaining place the circuit is broke would be in the larger chunk of rubber where the splice is located (ie-where you see the stencieling for "fuse Link")

carefull on your perception of what happens to the yellow wires as they depart the fuse links and head up towards the firewall and into the car.
one goes to the ign switch and that one turns into two wires via another fuse link in the sterring column bonding to two separate pins on the ign switch itself.

i think the other yellow wire heads up through the wire loop and into the fuse panel.

just thought i would mention that.

Well one of the easiest ways to tell a fuse link is bad is to grab it and pull on it. If it stretches out the link is bad. Normally i dont use continuity to test them. As normally they are hot all the time with battery voltage direct from the source the  (BATTERY). A quick voltage test will confirm continuity. Simple question what is not working in the car??? Fuse links feed heavy circuits like alt cab ignition switch ETC. If the links are open something clearly is not working. What is it. Posting that will make shooting the issue much easier. Also fuse links in my experience are stranded. Some older ones looked solid but i think they were some sort of material that looked like solder. I use regular wire as links. and normally reduce the size by 2 wire sizes for protection. Or you can use a MAXI FUSE HOLDER with the desired size fuse. This way the fuse can easily be changed in the event of a short!!

I pulled a print on the ignition switch and found the ORANGE LINK. As Cassity points out it feeds the ignition switch. You might just want to check your ignition switch for burning or a melted plug. That link is a 16 gauge and you can turn on your ignition switch and feel it and see if it gets HOT. This can be dun with any fuse link. If it gets worm or hot you either have to much load on that circuit or the link is failing. A quick check with an AMMETER will decide if that is true. You can also wire in an AMMETER to the individual fuse links and check them for current draw. Then compare it to the AMPACITY OF THE LINK!!

:hick::mullet::burnout:

The link I attached to my last post was almost exactly what happened to me. It appears that the neutral when not in the full closed or open position will cause problems for some reason (maybe deteriorating). I haven't had any problem with my ignition switch and I was sitting in the car both times I saw smoke under the hood. If the ignition switch would have acted up I'm sure I would have seen or heard it. Being that the transmission linkage needs adjusting and the fact that in the connector the red/light blue wire (neutral switch) is included, I am hoping the problem will go away when I adjust the transmission linkage and TV cable. The first time this happened, a ground wire that went from the negative battery post to the body (about 8" long) sizzled and smoked. From the body it went to the same connector as these fuse links are gathered. So, it's all the same issue and happened just like the link I attached. To be honest, like I said before, it really doesn't make sense unless I need to replace my neutral switch do to it going bad.

86 i hate to tell you this but their is no battery at the NSS other than the reverse lights. The NSS cranking portion is only powered up when the key is in the CRANK POSITION!!!!!

The reverse lights battery  come off a fuse in the fuse panel #5 @15Amps. If it was grounded the fuse would have blown. If you melted your bonding strap from the battery to the frame you have  an issue of bonding the engine to the battery. That is the only way the thin bonding wire would fry. Seems like you do not have your grounds in order. Many a mechanic will overlook this and it is very important. The smoke might have came from a bad ground bonding issue. Make sure the engine is properly grounded along with the body.

Tom,
      What is NNS? To be honest, I haven't even had a chance to check out my back-up lights. I'm more concerned about getting my car started without causing a fire. I figured out the problem with my shift linkage and now it's all right. I also adjusted my TV cable like the video said to do. So, now I'm at the point where I just need to try to start my car. My friend will come over tomorrow so he can be watching the engine compartment with a volt meter in hand while I'm in the car cranking it over. The wire that fried the first time was not a fuse link, the second time I never got to see where the smoke came from and like I said nothing looked burnt. When I took the links out they looked fine.

NSS= Neutral safety switch!
I had a feeling the links were good. It takes a lot to blow them. They are the last chain in the system of protection. Other than the alt feed ETC. Better check the battery at the alt and check your grounds. If you smoked a bonding strap grounding is an issue on your car. Did you fix the grounding issue??? Just a thought!!

That's just it, I never had a problem until the neutral switch got out of adjustment. I have two grounding straps on my engine, one on the back of the driver's side head and another on the crank case. The first wire that smoked I replaced. If I were to take a guess, I would say the neutral switch is about to go. I'm going to change it out just to be safe.

Fuse links!  It is amazing how something so small and simple can at times cause such headaches (at least for some of us, myself included).

I went as far as to take the fuse links out and check them and they are good. I took the neutral switch out and checked it and it and the harness is also good. Tomorrow I will put it back in after I clean it up. I did check my fuse box and every one of my fuses looked good. I was out side cranking the engine yesterday for some time but it did not fire up. The thing that got me was it didn't even try to start, no backfire or anything. One issue I did notice was when I took my #5 plug out it didn't fire, when I took my #6 plug out it looked like it would only fire about once every 3rd turn. My plugs are new, my distributor is new and it ran fine for about an hour before I saw the puff of smoke under the hood. I will look for the orange link on the car and see what I can find out. Thanks!

OK time to get serious!!!  Get out your test lamp and test for battery on the + side of the coil ( Red Light Green) with the ignition keyed on!!! DOES IT LIGHT???? If not you either have a bad fuse link or a bad ignition switch. Check spark at the center wire to ground with a gap of app 1/4 inch while cranking of course!!! Or with a plug or spark tester. If you have spark their forget this post!!! Also check for battery at the injectors. The hot side has a red wire. Key the car and check for Battery. If good use a NOID light to check pulses. Crank the engine and look for the blinks. Are they their. Yes No. If yes you are good if no go to the POWER UP RELAY OR EEC REALAY WHATEVER YOU LIKE TO CALL IT. Then check that. Good luck!!!

whats bugging me is that fact your not telling us that you are smelling fuel real bad!!!!

-turn key on=do you hear the fuel pump run for a couple second=if yes-good
-turn key off= do you hear a click after a couple seconds?=if yes-good
-find your computer test connector, ground the tan/light green wire to the body of the car, turn key on=does the fuel pump run constantly?=if yes-good

-as mentioned= back probe any easy to get to fuel injector connector with a test light and probe the red wire=if light blinks=good
-repeat above test on another random injector
-repeat above test on another random injector




Here are a few extras you can locate in my diy link i went ahead and extracted..............
-----------------------
No spark, TFI CONN check
*******(our count will be from the bottom up as the conn is in its normal
mounted position for this test)***********
disconnect "s" terminal of starter relay
disconnect the TFI conn
the pos meter lead will be inserted in the below terminals with the ground cliped to dissy base
the ign switch will be rotated to obtain voltage readings
voltage readings **must be** at least 90% battery voltage
its obvious now why we disconnected the slip on boot red wire from starter relay : )

terminal circuit ID ign sw position
2 to ign coil (-) terminal RUN
3 run circuit RUN and START
4 start circuit START


------------------------
Coil Check
meter set to ohms, car off, undo plug wire and input conn
measure from small pin to small pin and expect .3 to 1.0 ohms
***things to remember when using your digital meter. when you turn on you meter and set it to ohms, your meter may have a reading without touching anything yet. Remember to subtact your UNCALIBRATED meter reading from your coil reading above. A properly calibrated meter should be all zero's upon selecting ohms. Since this is almost a direct short we are reading here,, you meter being off will only complicate your troubleshooting.***

measure from on small pin to the plug wire post and expect 8000 to 11000 ohms.
1987shop manual calls for these ..6500-11500 is a good coil
less than 6500 or greater than 11500 is bad

FUNCTIONAL CHECK
remove the electrical connection from the coil.
remove the coil wire from the distributor and insert a spark plug in it
ground out the spark plug threads to the one of the strut bolts (wire tie it down).
run a jumper wire from the battery positve to the coil where the red wire was hooked.
run a jumper from the battery ground and tap the other end to a strut tower bolt.
just tap the ground wire to ground a few times and you will see spark happen on the plug.
you might need to gap the plug a little narrower than normal to get a consistant spark.
the coil may skip a spark here and there but its because of the charge your putting on it.
as you tap the ground jumper and you see spark, you have confirmed the coil operates.

***it would be best to do this test as soon as you stop your car incase its
a heat related type problem.



--------------------------
stator check
remove coil spark plug wire and ground it
remove sprout conn
ground neg meter lead to dizzy base
connect pos meter leat to TFI side of sprout conn
bump engine over to obtain voltage reading
repeat several times
for a digital meter, allow display to stabalize between tests

does voltage average out to be at least 90% battery voltage? = stator good

does voltage average out to be less than 90% battery voltage? = stator bad

-------------------------
TFI MODULE TEST
Its possible the tfi is bad and allow fuel to injectors. For 20 seconds a bad tfi will allow fuel injectors to pulse. after that they will not pulse if the tfi is bad.

with the key off, there should be no voltage at any wires on the TFI connector. Prob with stick pin.
with the key on,, there will be power on the 4th and 5th wire going from top down.

remove the small red wire from starter solenoid on the fender well to prevent starting.
while the key is held to the start position
power is found on the wires 3,4 and 5 counting from top down.
if no power is found at this point,, its a wiring problem.

place the key in the run position and remove coil plug wire
tap into the 5th wire down on the TFI with a stick pin/jumpe wire
ground out the 5th wire just quickly enough to see spark, dont hold ground and damage a good TFI.
If no spark is found on the grounded 5th wire, check for 12v at the input of the coil.
if power is found,, then test or swap the coil.


Hold your TFI module in your hand just as it were mounted in your Dizzy.
There will three pins on the top pointing up. The large 6 pin conn will be to your right.
the three pins on the top count from left to right *D1 D2 D3*
the six pin conn count top down H1 H2 H3 H4 H5 H6

(the 87 shop manual has the count starting from the bottom up, rangerstation.com com tech
section counts them from top down. use the top down method for this procedure)

the metal base is called "base"
now that the parts of the TFI are identified,, trouble shoot in ohms by the chart below

D1 to H1 12.8K
D1 to H2 17.4K
D1 to H3 1000
D1 to H4 11.5K
D1 to H5 4.2K
D1 to H6 0.0K
D2 to H1 1.2K
D2 to H2 5.8K
D2 to H3 12.6K
D2 to H4 100
D2 to H5 15.8K
D2 to H6 11.6K
D3 to H1 100
D3 to H2 4.7K
D3 to H3 13.7K
D3 to H4 1200
D3 to H5 16.9K
D3 to H6 12.7K
D1 to D2 11.5K
D1 to D3 12.6K
D2 to D3 1100
D1 to BASE 0.0K
D2 to BASE 12K
D3 to BASE 13.1K

Your exactly right, the plugs were wet, (got fuel). So, the injector's are doing their thing. I've never seen intermittent spark before. WOW! A lot of good information! Looks like I'm gonna learn a lot about this harness (good thing). I will start with Tom's list and if I don't find the problem, I will start on jcassity's list. I'm going to try to talk my buddy into helping me out again, electrical is always much easier with two people. Thanks!!

86 it only takes a couple of things for an engine to run,

SPARK AT THE RIGHT TIME AND OF PROPER VOLTAGE.

COMPRESSION NORMALLY ABOVE 140 LBS

AND FUEL> OF THE PROPER AMOUNT!!!

Seems like you have a spark issue!!!

I'm outside taking all the plastic and tape off the harness in front of the fire wall. I decided to double check my neutral switch before I put it back in and when I set it up with alligator clips and checked it for continuity, I found that it was intermittent. When I pushed the plunger about half way in it would beep, a little further and it would stop, then a little further and it would beep. So, I'm going to replace it. I just went outside and found the fried link!! The wire is black with orange stripe going into the large harness that goes up toward the fire wall . That's also where I saw the smoke come out. I'm waiting for the schematic to download so I can see where it goes.

From what I can tell it looks like fuse link "F" 20 ga. goes to connector #C141 and then goes to the engine compartment lamp. The other end goes to fuse links r,s,l,m, and e. The orange and black then goes to fuse links a,b, and c. Looks like a lot to look at. It also goes to the alternator like Tom said.

86 that fuse link only feeds the under hood lamp. The battery comes from the other links paired. If in fact that link is the one it does not feed anything other than the lamp

BLUE 141 F 20G

That switch is good !!!!!  Remember the car will start in Neutral as well as Park. So if i read you correctly the switch is working PERFECTLY.

dont have a stick car but your description of the plunger being intermittant sounds right the way you describe it ,,

here is a decent fuse link thread when i fixed my sons car, read up when you get a moment.
i found and fixed it pretty quick, thread just continued a couple more pages though but there is a lesson i learned here..............
do not use a random evtm for fuse link design verification.  thanks to Trinom, you have the EVTM per my diy link below.
I hope to scan in the 88evtm i got for my son as well... that would be very useful... and that was the year car in the below thread.

I found a small boat load of fuse links in the wire loom under the battery tray... one of those blew in my case.
In yours, just use common sense and splice them professionally ~solder is best~.  The factory connections were cad welded splices ,, just fyi


see this thread.......
http://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?34232-88-5.0-bird-no-start

Jay I thought he had an AUTO???? Not a 5 SPEEDER. If in fact he has an auto the NSS Is working perfectly. I am confused which tranny does he have!!!!! If in fact an auto. He checked the NSS OK. Remember the switch has continuity in 2 places PARK AND NEUTRAL.

Also the TC print is different than his car. The print you are talking about is for a COUPE. Those 2 fuse links in series blows my mind. I have no clue why FORD did this??? But his car cranks so that black link would be good if wired like this. But the print i am looking at of his vehicle (1986 MERC ) is different. Thanks!!

your right if its an aod. 
i dont know exactly why i do it but when talking 5speed, i call it a neutral safety switch.
when talking AOD, i call it a "range selector switch"

i hope he takes the time to unplug the ignition switch connector, or at least look at the yellow wires going into it,  if they are brown on the end,,,,,,,,,, easy and not so expensive solution.  Id rather that than a dizzy with an out of the box failure or bad stator/tfi.

Yes, I have a 1986 Cougar with an AOD transmission and 5.0 engine. I did notice the schematic was for a different engine and year. The fuse link that blew does have another fuse link attached that is the same and it did not blow. Thanks for letting me know that my neutral switch is still good, I will put back in this morning.

I will give you +10 points for just removing/replacing a NSS on an AOD.
Think I'd rather pull the oil pan.

Props to you, brave sir.

When you get old like me!!!!! You test them before REMOVING THEM !!!!!!!  Just me i am silly like that?????

TRUE 86 but the fuse links in series according to the print is for the rear window defroster.

Can anyone explain to me why FORD puts 2 fuse links in series???? And further mor of different current capacities??? WOW always wondered why and to this day i cant understand why??? ANYONE!!!!

If you are talking about links R and E, it looks like the tech writers were having trouble keeping up with the changes between 85 and 86

85 with trailer tow feature has link R feeding link E and two other links S and T.
Without trailer tow feature there is just link E.

86 they deleted trailer tow feature.
The EVTM shows link R feeding link E with links S and T deleted.
It also shows link E by itself  feeding the rear defroster.

In the Haynes manual it has two schematics for 1986. One for 1986 and earlier and one for 1986 and later. My car has the three fuse links attached to the one I have that blew. My friend and I traced it to the "Electronic Engine Control Module". It had no voltage on "accessories" or when cracking over. All I did was change starters to a mini charger, would that in any way create a spike to my EEC? I don't want to find out I have a bad EEC, replace it only to have it happen again. It was taking a longer and longer to start towards the end and the last time it ran, it ran great for about a hour (total time) then is started to idle rougher and rougher. That's when I turned it off and it smoked. I am going to pull the EEC out and look at it for any obvious problems before I buy another on. What I'm wondering is did the old girl just give up after 26 years of service, or was there a electrical spike that took her out? Thanks!

I'm about Tom's age (55) and if I knew what I was doing, I would have done it the easier way. I learned a lot and I know it's all clean and functional, so it was worth it. I can't take anything for granted on a 26 year old car. Thanks! for the "Atta Boy", I'm glad you guy's understand. I cleaned the NSS up and it went back in like a dream. Took me about 2 hours to get the messy thing out and about 5 minutes to get it back in and working.

WOW! Does this sound right?? I just called auto zone and they have one for under $100.00 depending on which one I need. I know it re-manufactured but still, back in the old days, these were EXPENSIVE!! So, my next question is does someone make an upgrade aftermarket model? Maybe programmable or whatever they do with an EEC.

Can you point out on this diagram the wire/link that smoked?

That is the other schematic (1986 and earlier), mine is the 1986 and later schematic. It is fuse link "L" (20 gauge blue). It is a black/ orange stripe wire. Unless someone has a special connection with ford, I doubt that anyone will have a schematic for the EEC. Hope that helps.

Hope this is less fuzzy. Are you saying my diagram is for the earyl 86?

What is the VIN number of your car?

Soft touch that is the print i pulled up on ALL DATA. A&E are in series for what reason is beyond my imagination!!! FORD and their nutty wiring???

86 you have to stop and do some trouble shooting before throwing parts at this issue. You are chasing BALLOONS. You jump all over the place and that is a NO NO. Here is what i would do. Key up the car and check voltages at key points. And operate accessories and see which ones dont work. That will direct you in to the proper fuses and links that feed them. Take your time and check points with a conventional test light. Not a circuit safe one. NOTE do not back probe any electronic circuits with this type of test light.  Example the ECM The injector banks and the ignition switch. Clearly you blew a link and that means a hefty short of grounding of a component or wiring. Slow down and think before proceeding. First thing to do is after you find out what battery feed caused the link to blow. Once this is accomplished you need to eliminate circuits associated with this link. If not you will chase BALLOONS. And just might FRY A NEW ECM??? If in fact the ECM is not properly grounded ETC. It might seek a ground through that link and fry the new ECM. So slow down and research which circuits are dead and what they feed. Hope this helps.

Note check all battery feeds and grounds to the ECM. And make sure you put a heavy load on the grounds for testing. A resistive ground is a NO NO!!!

When we checked the fuse link that blew, we did a continuity check on the black/orange stripe wire that goes directly to the EEC and it beeped. The other side does connect to a lot more wires, but most of them have fuse links also. That may not matter being they are larger than 20 gauge. We did check for voltages while cranking and found nothing. We checked the other connections and did not find a short (??). Why would the car run for so long before the fuse blew?

Fuse link L does go directly to the EEC. It is the keep alive voltage for the EEC.
BUT when the key is on and the EEC power relay is picked it goes lots of places. Several solenoids, the fuel injectors, the A/C WOT cutout relay, the fuel pump relay.
As Tom says, some trouble shooting is needed.

I've trying to sent the link, but I'm not having any luck. I believe it is page #53 on 86_tbird's EVTM.

softtouch,
              Yes, your schematic is early 1986 which is charging system with external voltage regulator. The 1986 or later is internal voltage regulator. Thanks!

I don't remember this early/late 86 coming up before. Your discription of link L sounds like the 87 wiring harness.
Would you mind posting your VIN so we can confirm it's an 86.
My 86 EVTM shows the 5.0 having the 2G alternator while the 3.8 still has the 1g.
I want to get us all on the same page wiring diagram wise.

PS. The diagram I posted has the internal voltage regulator.

Tom, That top row with link R and E in series should have been deleted from the diagram when they deleted the trailer tow feature.
The real link E is at the bottom of that stack of links.

Check out a 85 diagram to see what it looked like with trailer tow feature.

http://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?34510-Differential-tag&highlight= Here's what my differential tag says, if that helps.

The VIN number is on top of the dash close to the windshield on the driver's side. You have to look through the glass from the outside.

remember guys, that c-pillar lighted tbird emblem was a 5v light,,,, that second fuse link in question may have been serving as a resistance wire and its just mis typed.  it would have been carried over a year or two .


if he has the 87harness, its very easy to verify,,,,,,the charge fuse link qty and color codes will match up.

I'm looking at the schematic and the one you sent me looks right. My friend must be confused. One difference is the yellow wires have black fuse links not red. The one question I have is that when I put the new mini starter on, I left the small r/blue stripe wire on the key of the starter relay that goes to the ignition, I also hooked up a small wire to the starter being it already has it's own relay to the hot side of the starter relay mounted on the fender. Is that right? I think I also found at least part of the schematic for the EEC. It shows the connections, but I don't see a black/orange stripe wire on it (??). Sorry, I seem to be confusing everyone, but on this schematic it sure looks like the colors match up. I will do my own homework today and get back with you. Thanks!

\
Are you speaking to me?

Softtouch,
                Sorry, it took me so long to get back with you, I had some errands to run. Yes, your schematic looks right, but some colors on the fuse links are different.

Question: If I have a yellow wire going to the EEC, shouldn't I see a yellow wire on the connector of the EEC? The only wire I see on the connector that is yellow has a green stripe. Right where the EEC is, there is a small group of wires that are taped together and are going toward the back of the car. In that bundle I have both a black/orange stripe and a yellow wire, but they do not connect to my EEC. The more I look at this harness the less it looks like either schematic. It shouldn't make a difference if the car came from Van puppies Canada should it?

Ok 86 once again you are chasing BALLOONS. You are asking questions about the starter. Question did and or does the starter WORK???? Because i cant follow your posts at this point. Once AGAIN key the car and see what works in the car???? Test every device and let me know what does not work right down to the ASH TRAY LIGHT IF IT HAS ONE. Then tell me or should i say US what does not work. At this point you are tearing in to things that may not have any significance with your trouble. Then when you find out the circuits that do not work we can pull a print and section it down Another words isolate it!!! This is how trouble shooting is DUN!!! So go out to the car with a fully charged battery and post back what i asked. If not i am lost for words at this point???

Tom,
        That sounds a lot better than the way I'm doing it. I'm going to charge up my battery for a while and put the EEC back in. Then I'll get back with you. Thanks!

What does work: Interior lights, radio, clock, headlights (low and high beam), instrument lights, turn signals, horn, windshield wipers, wiper pump, door chime, starter, trunk light, e/m, trip, trip reset, back-up lights, electric side mirrors, fuel gauge, and oil pressure gauge.

What does not work: Heater blower, defroster, amp. meter is now dead, and car won't start (although it did try).

I don't know about the temperature gauge, or the seat belt warning.

Did I miss anything? Sounds to me like my car should start.

On the schematic I have it shows two black/orange stripe wires. One goes to the EEC, and the other one goes to the defroster. My defroster is now not working and my amp. meter is not working and my blower is not working. When I was charging up my battery, I did notice it was fairly low. I charged it up on a scale from 5-1 to 2. Tomorrow I will complete the charge and see if that was my problem with starting. Why would my fuse to my heater fry? Did my alternator spike and kill it and my amp. meter? Tomorrow, I will remove my amp. meter.

Check that the Grey/Yellow circuit coming off the ignition switch has power when the key is on (blower), and go check that everybody is hooked up at the starter solenoid (defrost and EEC power).  If it's all hooked up at the solenoid, start checking for power getting through the fuse links there, especially the BK/O ones.  I like to use a headlight as a test lamp for this.  By the diagram, checking for power at PCM pin 1 should tell you a lot also.

86 dont remove the ammeter. Once again you are chasing balloons. Ok it cranks right??? But wont start. Did you check for battery at the coils + side???? Also now check all the fuses at the fuse panel for voltage. Check the blower fuse #9 for battery in and out. Is it their ???? Also check for battery at the alt heavy charging leads . They are the thickest ones.  And post back. This way i can trace back the power source that feeds it. The blower battery comes through the ignition switch fuse 9 30A . As i posted several pages back did you check that. Another words check that the ignition switch is sending battery to the fuse panel. Then we can go further!!!

OK do this check for grounds on pins 40&60 of the ECM. If good check constant battery on pin 1 of the ECM. If ok then check key battery on pins 37&57. Is key battery their??? If not go to the EEC relay and check for constant battery feeding the relay. Is it their??? If so key the car on and check if the relay is energizing and transferring the battery out of the relay. IS IT DOING THIS??? If not find out why. I am thinking the EEC relay does not have battery present because of a fuse link.

Key the car on and check if battery is on the red wire feeding the injectors. And do not remove anything further untill you do some pinpoint testing. Stop chasing balloons and isolate this trouble

Still waiting for that VIN number.
A little history of the car may help.
How long have you owned it?
Is every thing stock except the starter? Did you leave all the original wiring on the battery side of the starter relay?
Was the car originally a 5.0?
What features. ATC, digital dash, auto lamp etc

I've owned this car for about 7 years. It has an MSG 6a box, a MSG distributor, new gauges that's about it. The wiring on the starter relay has changed do to the mini-starter. What is ATC and auto lamp? Yes, digital dash, electric side mirrors, that's about it.

Test those points i posted then we can go further. I dont care what print you need i need to know Voltages and where they are not!!!!

Will do. I'm new at this,so I will probably ask a lot of dumb questions.

lets restart here with only one thing.........

take out the battery and battery tray and remove covers off the wires heading off the starter relay.

you will be able to see all the fuse links.  I mentioned earlier that there are several fuse links hiding under the battery tray. 

One wire (mini starter power should be attached to one post of your starter relay.
ALL other wires should be attached to the other post of he starter relay including the wire that comes from your battery.
AND THEN make sure your little red slip on boot wire is attached to the tiny stud on the starter relay as well (you wont be able to start the car with this unhooked)


now here is the one test.....should be easy
by removing all wires including battery on the one side of the starter relay, continuity test through all the fuse links.
the links get kinda confusing but when you run into a parallel set, just move down to the link itself and read across it.
I was never really clear that you have / have not tested all fuse links.

Right now I am in the process of fully charging my battery. From 5-0, it is now at about 1.5. It should be fully charged in just a few minutes. The starter relay is just as you said, facing it, all the wires are on the right side (always hot) and the left post has only the small wire going to my starter. The small center post has the small red boot (key).

I'm outside checking the fuse box voltages. I will get back with you.  Thanks!

First off, the illustration in my book does not match up perfectly. Also, I only count 11 fuses total.

#1-12.11V., #4-12.14V., #5-12.03V., #8-12.13V., #9-12.01V., #10-11.96V., #11-11.97V., #13-.015V #15-0V., #17-12.04V.

# 15 does not make any sense, my instrument lights work fine.

Now check for battery on the red wire on the fuel injectors. This will tell you that the EEC relay is working properly. Remember key the car!!:mullet::mullet::mullet:

On the red wire to a #1 fuel injector all I get is .69 in "accessories" and it drops to .049 when I try to start it. According to my manual #15 if for my license plate and it is working, also #13 is for my instrument panel and it is also functional (??).

http://sbftech.com/index.php?topic=588.0

Read through this link. If you do each step, you'll find your exact problem. Also check the small black wire that goes to your grounding battery terminal. If this wire is off, you will have no computer. Your doing good, and not afraid to get your hands dirty.

Does the engine crank over, but not start? Your posts are sort of hard to follow at times...

http://sbftech.com/index.php?topic=588.0

Read through this link. If you do each step, you'll find your exact problem. Also check the small black wire that goes to your grounding battery terminal. If this wire is off, you will have no computer. Your doing good, and not afraid to get your hands dirty.

Does the engine crank over, but not start? Your posts are sort of hard to follow at times...

There you are, 86.  No power at the injectors with the key on means your PCM power relay either has no power, OR it's not activating, I'd put money on no power to the relay. Time to go back to look at the fuse links.

Check Fuse link L It's the smallest red one (20GA) by the solenoid, and check for power at pin 1 on the pcm.  This will tell you if there is power into the relay or not. It's Bk/O, just like everything else you're looking at.  It's not a great test, but with the battery undone, you can do a continuity check with your meter by measuring ohms from PCM pin 1 to the stud of the solenoid that has everything junctioned on it.  Voltage drop would be better, but you already know you don't have power there, so it couldn't hurt to see how much resistance we're dealing with. <.5 ohm is ok, >1 ohm is bad. Anyplace in between, make sure your probes are making good contact.

See how much easier it is when you're not 'chasing balloons'? (Tom, love that term btw. I think I'll keep it)

Well, so far so good. Haystack, Too late and dark tonight to do anymore, but I will get on that link you sent me and check it out tomorrow. TFYK, by solenoid, you mean starter relay? Where do I get the numbering system for the PCM? Thanks!

I am getting a HEADACHE forget the fuses at this point !!!!!! You FINALLY tested the battery lead that comes from the EEC relay. I cant say that was an easy task for you to do as i have been asking for that several times. Now go to the EEC relay and see if you have constant battery on one side. This trouble shooting should be DUN WITH A CONVENTIONAL TEST LIGHT. Forget Ohm meter tests they are worthless. They can send you in the wrong direction. So check the relay and you are most likely going to find no battery at the relay. IS IT THEIR . I have asked this question several times. Tell me if it is THEIR!!!!

LINK L has to be checked or check pin number 1 on the ECM. If you have battery at pin number 1 on the ECM you are not commanding the EEC relay on and or it is bad. I am betting fuse link L is OPEN.

Tom, sounds like your gonna bust a blood vessel. I still need to know which relay. Starter relay??

The EEC relay. 
I don't know right off hand where it's located. Pin 1 of the PCM will be in the corner of the connector, and it's black with an orange stripe. I believe pin one is the upper left when you're looking directly at it with the pr0ngs down.

Yes the EEC RELAY. I asked this question back on my post 32. That was 60 Posts back!!!

Location  Under RH Side Of I/P   

By the A pillar near the door hinge

If that's the case, it's right there with the PCM. Much easier, then, to just pull the relay and probe the connector than to pull the PCM. I'll get a diagram with a pinout up.

In this cell the fuse link is blue, but in Power Distribution, it's red.  Same size in either case, look for both, who know which it will really be.  A 20GA fuse link won't take much.

i hate to quote myself but post 33,, step 2.

when you turn the key off, do you hear a click after a couple seconds/????????????

also, have you taken a look at the EVTM for the 86 in my diy link,, it may match up better.
as for pins to the eec, its right there,, a big square box that continues over to other pages called the ECA.


now ,, do you hear a click or not after you turn off the key
Do you even hear the fuel pump run when you turn on the key.  You said you smelled fuel in response to my post 33 so i actually assumed the computer was triggering injectors.  if you smell fuel building  up then obviously the computer relay is picking the computer to come on,, and then the computer is picking the fuel pump relay to power up as well.

its ok if we are going backwards though,, either way its progress.

one thing i did do was pm you with my ph# to talk through some of this basic stuff to help more quickly pinpoint .. did not hear from you but what i planned to do is post our results so we could speed this up based on that call.

i am still available as i am off all this week so buzz me at 304 772 3411 if you want to get this broke up into manageable chunks.  it wont take but at the most an hour to muddle through some basic points,, maybe quicker if your all un buttoned and harnesses are available for testing.


glad  you see no power on the red wire of the injectors,, this is progress !  closer to the problem.

Jay / Foe after he finds the blown fuse link ????? Then he has to find out why it BLEW. That will be interesting.

Not sure about this does a 1996 have a SES LIGHT. Memory seems to say NO. If it does does it come on when KEYED. Even if it has one it wont light because he has no battery at the ECM!!!

Tom, not to pick on you, but you do mean 1986? jcassit, I will be calling you, thanks for the offer! Obviously, you guy's are up and running on the east coast before I am. Tom, sorry I'm slow at this, like I said this is my most modern car. Never dealt with a ECM before, it's all new to me. I promise you guy's I want to get through this and fix the problem also! But, I'm leaning a lot that I never knew and to me that is just as valuable! Well, I better get started before Tom decides to come over here and kick me in the butt (lol). ONLY JOKING, Tom!

jcassity,
            I turn the ignition switch on and off and YES I hear a "click". That must be the relay, it is coming from the same area as the EEC. I have the cover off, so I can get to it. Now I will go and check voltage on it.

good news!!!!!!!!

ok

now get yourself a little finishing nail or a paper clip, locate a plastic cap that on the fuel delivery line, it will be a fitting used to test fuel presure.

two ransom tests......
1Key your ignition switch on then off waiting for the click you hear , then key it on / off again... then quickly go up to the fitting and push in the little pin.
does a bunch of fuel spurt out?  ~ if yes= this means the pump is pumping but the volume is uknown so at best lets assume fuel is getting where its suppose to go at the right volume

2next,
follow that same silver looking line and along it you will find a round device mounted to the fuel rail.
there is a vac line attached at the top.... remove it and tell us...........  Is there moisture inside the vac line?



Since you mentioned lack of power on the red wire of the injectors , double check that again please.
Normally we rig up a small light bulb with socket and wire so we can plug each wire into the fuel injector connector.
Next unplug distributor center plug wire and insert a spark plug  and lay it off to the side over the fender well outside the car (protect as required),, this prevents your engine from starting but keeps the functionality of the process in tact for the next step
Next we go up to the ignition switch and crank the engine over and the little bulb will blink telling us the computer is deliering the ground signal to the injector.
(notice how the computer is controlling the ground leg of the injectors only!!  if it controlled power delivery , it would have to be the size of your old VCR probably.
If you have a light that blinks= report back (this is the NOID TEST tom spoke of)
If you dont have a light, then use that same bulb or a test light, attach one end to engine ground and the other to the red wire of the injector harness connector, with your key "ON" you should have a constant light.= report back~your previous meter test indicated you had no power at the injector harness.



what i am leading up to is two things.....

A= fuse link or broken / unplugged wire connector at the "salt and Pepper" connectors to the rear of the upper intake
>>>it is not uncommon for some connectors to be damaged in such a way that a conductor can back out of the connector because the internal retainer clip is broke.
Your wiper motor connector is a good example of this type of connector...so is your ign sw, instrument cluster and various other connectors.

or

B= you have unfortunatly blown your TFI module (device on the side of the distributor) ~go back to where i posted the test steps to see power "IN" and power "OUT" of the TFI.

***as a note, you never undo the yellow little two wire shorting plug with the engine running, some say and others insist this will help damage your TFI.

With the car keyed, I have no power to pin #1. I also do not hear my fuel pump.

jcassity,
            About a month ago I bent and broke that test fitting on my fuel rail and I replaced it with a bolt. I went out side to see if I could take the bolt off, but it's buried.

My fuel pressure regulator is dry.

I took the coil wire off and hooked up my test light to pos. and neg. of fuel injector #1 and turned to motor over and got no light. I put one wire on the pos. and grounded the other to the engine, turned it over and no light.

Yes, I have light and voltage coming from the coil pos. wire.

Tom, I need a schematic to know where all those pins are on my EEC connector. Otherwise, I will only be guessing.

I guess I still need to check the TFI on my distributor?

86, UTFG :beatyoass:
http://www.auto-diagnostics.info/ford_eec_iv

Trinom,
          I got it thanks! What is UTFG? Use the f%^$# guide? According to this schematic, what I tested was not pin #1, but pin #20. It did have an B/O wire going to it.

UTFG = Use the "fine" GOOGLE.

That page is correct
(http://www.auto-diagnostics.info/images/ford_eec_iv_connector.gif)
(http://obrazky.trinom.org/obrazky/idik_PB190109.JPG)

I just tested pin #1 with key and nothing. When I check for ground are you wanting me to test "continuity"?

yes, between that wire and good ground (for example the door hinge).


PS: Fuel pump is controlled through pin 22
(http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-lKrLFUDkg58/UF9th9gst9I/AAAAAAAAD_E/26xmbgpd_Ms/s640/050.jpg)

Tom, I do not see a female on connector #37, and there is no power at #57.

This doesn't look right, I have no female pin at #60 and no continuity at #40. Iknow when I called the store for another EEC, they said there was more than one and I needed to get it matched up. Calif. and non-calif..

If you don't have power on pin 1, you can't have power on 37 or 57 either. Did you checked that fuse link?

Trinom,
          I still have the original fuse link that blew apart still separated. It is a blue link with 20 ga. and B/O wire. That is what started this thread.

Well, and did you try to replace it with a fuse?

No, but then nobody asked me to and I was checking the  system to find out where I lost power. Should I hook this fuse link back up? Am I taking a chance of frying something else?

I'd recommend you to use a some small fuse to check, that there is no short in the system. I saw many fuses blown for no reason, so I would do this first. Changing a blown fuse is easier, than changing the fuse link. Use some small fuse, I'd recommend you 5 to 10 amps. ECM shouldn't take too high current to operate.

I now have about a 27ga. wire in place now. I will go back and check for voltages. Should I will go and try to start the car now?

27GA is too thin I think. It will burn immediately. But you should try just to turn on the ignition. It may survive the current peak.

This chart is something for you - http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm

Ok! Now I have voltage at my injectors, heater blower is working and rear defroster is working. I still see no voltage at pin #1 pin has no voltage, #20 has 11.93v., #47 and #57 nothing. The 27 ga. held up fine.

Pretty sure I heard the fuel pump, but it still won't start.

I went out to the car and found out that I forgot to hook up the coil wire to the distributor cap. I tried it and it started right up. Right now it's idling pretty smooth. The 27ga. is still hanging in there!

Ok, now you have located the source of your trouble, now replace the defective fusible link with the correct fusible link and call it a day.  I would be extremely wary of shorts beyond the fusible link, because they don't typically fail without a significant fault.  The blow slower than a fuse or circuit breaker, so that would indicate to me that the cause is not a short term arc or transient short, but something long enough term that without the benefit of the fusible link, your wiring harness would melt and potentially cause a fire.

Good job. Don't forget to swap that fuse link to correct value to be sure you won't stall somewhere because of burnt under rated fuse link.

I can't believe, that it took so long time. They were asking you so many questions but nobody told you "Try this and this".

Pin number 1 should have constant power from battery. That's the only thing you should check, where is the problem.
Wait a second. What color is the wire connected to pin 20? It should be the orange wire connected to the ground. Are you sure with 12V there?

All the gauges are working. So, it looks like everything is working so far. I do have an exhaust leak on the passenger side. A small pipe that should mount about where the passenger's feet are. That's where both left and right side of the exhaust connect. I need to get that pipe back in where it belongs.

I think all I did was check if for ground. It is B/O color. No exhaust leak, just fluids burning of my exhaust.

Looks like you're good to go thanks to trinom

The cars idles fine, but once I give it gas it stammers. That's what it was doing right before the fuse link blew. My guess is I need a new EEC. Does that sound right to you guy's?

Check your ignition system. BTW, what engine is it? I didn't read whole topic. Did you move the distributor in the past? I don't think the ECU is bad.

5.0 engine and I put in a new MSG distributor about a month ago.

I went and moved the distributor over a tooth and I had to turn the distributor over a little so I don't know if it's really any different than before. It idled good and revved-up good until it warmed up. I have no idea where the timing is at, but I did notice that if I moved the distributor over it started sending smoke out my exhaust.

I am loosing my mind here seems like someone was not listening to good. As i predicted this trouble in the first post. Now someone actually gave you advice as i did many days ago.


My post #7



    If you blew a fuse link you have something grounding out. Try disconnecting and separating them and back feed the links.

BACK FEED THE LINKS WHEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I am loosing my mind. D'OH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Help me DEAR GOD I AM GOING NUTS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! WOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Here is a HINT YOU NEED A TIMING LIGHT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

DUN FINISHED I HAVE A HEADACHE.

Going to the range tonight with a photo of a MERCURY and blasting it with my 40 GLOCK . Good to hear you found the trouble now install a wire 2 gauges thinner than the wire it protects. And thank GOD IT RUNS WHEEE!!!

Just having some FUN!!!! Glad to hear it runs 86.

Your not the only one with a headache! So, timing light and I'm guessing 10 degrees before TDC @ 600 rpm? I don't have the tag on my car anymore and my manual is useless.

Trinom, Tom, Crazy88, jcassity, haystack, TFYN, and who ever else helped me out today, THANK YOU!!!! You guy's are truely great guy's!!

The car is running, but I think I will concede to the fact that my poor old car is possessed. Tom, right again...timing. I will start a new thread.

You can't be certain it's timing.
Now that you have the car running pull the codes

FACEPALM.
We've been asking you to check fuse links.  If you had said you had a blue 20ga fuse link exploded, we would have moved on to finding the short instead of trying to help you figure out why the car won't start.  You KNOW why the car won't start, you had a blown link just like we'd been telling you.  WOW, dude. Just wow.

I'm going to go play with some unexploded ordinance.  Settle my nerves.

Jcassity,
            I have 2-3 code readers stashed away somewhere, but it will take some doing finding them. Also, I have never used them, so this will be another first for me.

Who or what is facepalm? If your talking to me, that's what is said, that we were trying to figure out what CAUSED the fried link. Read post #117 and #118.

Tom,
    I re-read your first post and I have no idea what a signal tracer is. I do have a heat gun, but what you described to do makes no sense to me.

I am not sure, but I think he was talking about a temp gun. It has a laser pointer on it and gives a digital readout of the temperature. When he says to trace the wire, he means to follow the wire with the laser pointer. The wire will get really hot where the short is while the electricity is running through it.

Yes that is how we do it. You can also get a tone tracer and buzzer from home depot to trace wires. Only draw back the circuit has to be unloaded. Another words no circuit hooked to it to ground the tone in the wire. Once again glad you got it running. Now time it at 10-12* BTDC SPOUT OUT!!! and you are GOLDEN!!!

:burnout::hick::mullet::evilgrin::bowdown:

I've never ever heard of that! Wow! that's impressive! "Another words no circuit hooked to it to ground the tone in the wire". Tom, sorry that statement lost me. What I think your saying is that If the wire I am tracing is shorted the tracer will not work... correct? Tom, I don't know if you knew this but I posted a new thread because I didn't think it should be here because it's about timing. My car runs, idles and revs-up good until it warms up, then it stammers and smoke starts to come out the exhaust. My engine buttstuffyzer is shot, but when I looked at the timing it was at about 10 degrees ATC. How is that possible? Will disconnecting the spout make much difference?

I think my next attempt at fixing any thing on the car will require a priest and some holy water. Not only will I have him sprinkle the car, but myself as well!

Keep some of that holy water around in case the car gets repossessed.

Forget about code readers. use a paper clip and low power test light
http://www.turbotbird.com/techinfo/RetrievingCodes/retrieving_eec_diagnostic_codes.htm

The more I think about it, the more I think Trinom might just be right. Just maybe a spike took the old tired fuse link out. My friend and I DID check for "shorts" twice and never found one in the links. All we did find was the burned fuse link that explained the smoke. I am going to leave the 27 gauge fuse link in it's place as long as I can and keep an eye on it. I started and re-started my car about 12 times yesterday and I let it run for a total of about 45 minutes and the fuse is still doing fine. We all know that this can be some what a difficult way to trouble shoot a car especially when you have an amateur like me to work though. I'm sure most of you, if not all of you would rather push me out of the way and do it yourselves. If you try to look at the bright side, I learned a lot (probably not retain it all) so maybe next time I have an issue with this car I can figure it out without bothering you (YA-HOO!) or you won't have to go into such detail. I haven't tried starting the car today, but yesterday it started every time without a hitch. With about six different guy's trying to help and newbe me doing the work, I think that's says a lot for us! Thanks, again!

 
all you need is a paper clip
or a test light
or a paper clip and a 12v 2$ buzzer

see below

per my diy link below my signature , here are the instructions with everything you need to know.



------------------------
Web based resources
**my favorite>> http://www.therangerstation.com
**http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/


Diagnostic testing with codes 3 step method

**For more detailed info and other options to pulling codes, visit the Tech library at therangerstation.com. Scroll down on the left and click on EEC-IV Diagnostics under the "computer" section.
To pull codes, locate your diagnostic connectors usually on the driver side engine bay.
There are two connectors, one large female one has 6 pins sort of triangle shaped. 4 pins along the bottom row and 2 on the top row. Count these pins by looking into the connector and counting each row left to right.
The second connector will be a single wire female plug as well located near the 6 pin female plug.

Below will be instructions on how to use a jumper wire to connect the "sig rtn" lead to the "sti". Here is where you would use a paper clip to make this jumper. The SIG RTN connetion is on the large connector , top row , right hand pin. (top row has two pins). The "STI" conneciton is the single wire lead near the diagnostic large connector. Read below and install the jumper when told to.

MEMORY CODES
Memory codes are problems that the computer has noticed in the past. If for example there was a loose wire to a solenoid that only lost contact while driving but was making contact while testing the system there would be NO HARD FAULT CODE. The code would show up IN MEMORY. The same would happen for a sensor that only went out of range occasionally. Memory codes come out AFTER the separator pulse.

NOTE: The computer will erase the memory after a certain number of engine re-starts if the problem does not repeat itself. The number of re-starts varies from 20 to 80 depending on the year of the vehicle. The later models keep memory longer.

Clearing Codes
These codes are kept in memory for 40 warm up cycles. To clear the codes for purposes of testing or confirming repair, perform the code reading procedure. When the fault codes begin to be displayed, de-activate the test by either disconnecting the jumper wire or releasing the test button on the hand scanner. Stopping the test during code transmission will erase the continuous memory. Do not disconnect the negative battery cable to clear the codes; the keep alive memory will be cleared and a new code (19) will be stored for loss of PCM power.

Below will mention using a test light instead of the check engine light during the instructions you will read. If you would like to be up near the engine and pull the codes then hook up the jumper wire when instructed and as described above. NOW, hook up a professional or riged up test light from the positive batter terminal to the large test connector , bottom row 2nd pin (STO pin) counting left to right looking into the plug. When you follow the steps below, the test light will strobe codes and how to decode them will follow below. I have used a 12dc buzzer i got out of an old microwave that gives me an audible tone. This makes it easier to focus on the paperwork end of the task so im not looking back and forth at a light and paper second guessing myself.

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>START HERE
STEP 1
Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) Method OR CHECK ENGINE LIGHT METHOD

The Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) on the dash (Engine Light) can be used to retrieve the stored codes. This method does not allow for any system investigation. This should only be used in the field where quick checks are needed. Follow the directions previously given for the scan tool procedure. To activate the tests, use a jumper wire to connect the signal return (SIG RTN) pin on the diagnostic connector to the Self-Test Input (STI) connector. The self test input (STI) line is the separate wire and connector with or near the diagnostic connector. Codes are transmitted with a pause between flashes. Code 32 would be sent as 3-flashes, a pause and then 2-flashes. A slightly longer pause separates the codes. The only way to repeat the code is to recycle the system. The Continuous Memory Codes are separated from the other codes by 6-seconds, a flash and then another 6-second delay. Compare the 2-digit and 3-digit Diagnostic Codes with the appropriate chart.

STEP 2

KEY ON ENGINE OFF (KOEO) TEST ************KOEO
NOTE: On 4.9L trucks with a manual transmission hold the clutch pedal in during this test.
On Diesel engine trucks hold the throttle to the floor during this test.

1. Make sure engine is fully warmed. If in doubt, run engine at 2000 rpm for 2 minutes.
2. Turn ignition off and wait 10 seconds for system to shut off. Make sure A/C is off and transmission is in Park (automatic) or Neutral (manual).
3. Hook up light and jumper (or a tester if you have one). Turn key to ON (do not start engine).
4. Fast Codes are output (ignore fast light flashes).
NOTE: Unhook self test input jumper (or tester if used) at any time during code output to erase memory.
5. Read hard faults.
6. Separator Pulse.
7. Read memory codes.
8. See code explanations and check components as necessary.
Use FIRST CODE OUTPUT and retest after any repairs are made.

STEP 3

KEY ON ENGINE RUNNING (KOER) TEST ***************KOER
1. Make sure engine is fully warmed. If in doubt, run engine at 2000 rpm for 2 minutes.
2. Turn ignition off and wait 10 seconds for system to shut off. Make sure A/C is off and transmission is in Park (automatic) or Neutral (manual).
3. Hook up light and jumper (or tester if you have one).
4. Make sure vehicle is safe to run and start engine.
5. Engine I.D. should be output.
6. Step on brake and turn steering wheel 1/4 turn. If the vehicle has an overdrive cancel switch, push it.
7. If a "Goose" pulse is received, move throttle quickly 1/2 way down and release.
8. Fast Codes are output (ignore).
9. Read codes.
10. See code explanations and check components as necessary. Use FIRST CODE OUTPUT and retest after any repairs are made.



2 digit Code Definition

11 System checks OK
12 Idle Speed Control motor or Air Bypass not controlling idle properly (generally idle too low) - ISC
13 (O) ISC did not respond properly (extends to touch throttle then retracts for KOEO) - ISC
(R) Idle Speed Control motor or Air Bypass not controlling idle properly (generally idle too high)
(M) ISC sticking, open ITS circuit or TP sticking
14 Ignition pickup was erratic - Ignition Systems
E4OD Transmission diesel RPM sensor - Diesel RPM sensor
15 (O) No Keep Alive Memory power to PCM pin 1 or bad PCM (Memory Test Failure)
(M) KAM (pin 1) was interrupted (was battery disconnected ?)
16 1.9L & 2.5L - Throttle stop set too high - IDLE or Idle Set Procedures
2.3L - RPM's too low - IDLE
(O) Electronic ignition - IDM circuit fault - Ignition Systems
17 1.9L & 2.5L - Throttle stop set too low - IDLE
18 (R) Check base timing & advance function - Timing Tests
(M) Ignition TACH signal erratic - Ignition Systems
19 (O) No Vehicle Power (pins 37 + 57) or bad PCM VPWR Diagnosis
(R) Erratic idle during test (reset throttle & retest) - Idle Set Procedures
Electronic ignition Cylinder ID sensor/circuit problem - Ignition Systems
21 Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor out of range - ECT
22 MAP (vacuum) or BARO signal out of range - MAP
23 Throttle sensor out of range or throttle set too high - TPS
24 Intake Air Temperature(ACT) (IAT) or Vane Air Temperature (VAT) sensor out of range - IAT VAT
25 Knock sensor not tested (ignore if not pinging) - KS
26 Mass Air Flow (MAF) or Vane Air Flow (VAF) out of range - MAF VAF
Transmission Oil Temperature (TOT) sensor out of range - Transmissions
27 Vehicle Speed Sensor problem - VSS
28 Vane Air Temperature (VAT) sensor out of range - VAT
2.3L w/Electronic Ignition - Cyl ID, IDM low or right coil pack failure - Ignition Systems
29 Vehicle Speed Sensor problem - VSS
EGR CODES DEPEND ON WHAT SYSTEM TYPE THE VEHICLE IS EQUIPPED WITH:
EVP is for vehicles equipped with EGR solenoid(s), with or without an EVP sensor
EVR is for vehicles equipped with an EGR Vacuum Regulator (EVR) and an EGR Valve Position (EVP) sensor
PFE is for vehicles with Pressure Feedback EGR (PFE) sensor and and an EGR Vacuum Regulator (EVR)
If you don't know what type of system you have, go to the EVP heading, which is the first one.
There are pictures under the different headings to help you identify the system.
31 EVP - (O, R, M) EVP signal is/was out of range - EVP
EVR - (O, R, M) EVP signal is/was low - EVR
PFE - (O, R, M) PFE signal is/was low - PFE
32 EVP - (R) EGR not responding properly during test - EVP
EVR - (O, R, M) EVP signal is/was low - EVR
PFE - (R, M) PFE shows low pressure, EGR not seating or memory, not seating intermittently - PFE
33 ALL - (O, M) EGR did not open/ respond during test or if memory code, did not open intermittently - EVP EVR PFE
34 EVP - (R) EGR did not respond properly during test - EVP
EVR - (O, R, M) EVP sensor is/was high - EVR
PFE - (O, R, M) PFE sensor is/was out of range - PFE
35 EVP - (R) Engine RPM's too low to test EGR system - EVP
EVR - (O, R, M) EVP sensor signal is/was high - EVR
PFE - (O, R, M) PFE sensor signal is/was high - PFE
38 Idle Tracking Switch signal was intermittent - ISC
39 Transmission Torque Converter clutch not engaging - Transmissions
40 SERIES FUEL/AIR INJECTION CODES ON VEHICLES WITH DUAL OXYGEN SENSORS REFER TO THE RIGHT OR REAR SENSOR. EXCEPT: 1984-1988 3.8L ENGINES: LEFT SENSOR
41 (R) System lean - Fuel control
(M) System was lean for 15 seconds or more (no HO2S switching) - Fuel control
42 (R) System rich - Fuel control
(M) System was rich for 15 seconds or more (no HO2S switching) - Fuel control
43 (R) HO2S sensor not reading (run at 2000 rpm's for 2 minutes and retest - check for HO2S switching)
(M) Was lean at WOT for 3 seconds or more - Fuel control
44 AIR system inoperative - Air Injection
45 AIR not Diverting (AIRD) - Air Injection
Electronic Ignition - coil primary circuit failure - Ignition Systems
46 AIR Bypass (AIRB) not working - Air Injection
Electronic Ignition - primary circuit failure coil 2 - Ignition Systems
47 Low flow unmetered air (check for small vacuum leaks, injector o'rings, gaskets etc.)
E4OD transmission 4x4 switch/circuit problem - Transmissions
48 High flow unmetered air (check for large vacuum leak, inlet hoses etc.)
Electronic Ignition - coil primary circuit failure - Ignition Systems
49 Electronic Ignition - spout signal circuit problem - Ignition Systems
Transmission 1/2 shift problem - Transmissions
51 Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor signal is/was too high - ECT
52 Power Steering Pressure Switch/circuit open - PSP
(R) Did you turn wheel during test ?
53 Throttle Position sensor too high - TPS
54 Intake Air Temperature (IAT) or Vane Air Temperature (VAT) signal high - IAT VAT
55 No or low (under 7.5 V) Key Power to PCM pin 5
56 Vane Air Flow (VAF) or Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor high - VAF MAF
Transmission Oil Temperature sensor too high - Transmissions
57 Intermittent in Park/Neutral/ Switch or Neutral Pressure switch circuit - PNP or Transmissions
1990 Scorpio - Octane jumper installed (information only code - to inform you if it is installed or not)
58 Idle Tracking Switch (ITS) signal problem ISC
Vane Air Temperature (VAT) sensor out of range or open - VAT
59 AXOD 4/3 circuit fault - Transmissions
3.0L SHO - Low speed fuel pump circuit problem - Power / Fuel Pump Circuits
Transmission 2/3 shift problem - Transmissions
1990 Scorpio - Idle jumper installed (information only code - to inform you if it is installed or not)
61 Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor is or was too low - ECT
62 AXOD (KOEO only) 3/2 circuit short to ground - Transmissions
AXOD (KOEO AND KOER) 4/3 circuit failure - Transmissions
E4OD excessive converter clutch slippage - Transmissions
63 Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) signal too low TPS
64 Intake Air Temperature (IAT) or Vane Air Temperature (VAT) signal low or grounded - IAT VAT
65 Check intermittent HO2S (signal or ground) - Fuel Control
(R) E4OD truck - cycle OD cancel switch after engine ID is received - Transmissions
1984 3.8L ONLY - O, M Battery voltage high (check for electrical system overcharging)
66 Vane Air Flow (VAF) or Mass Air Flow (MAF) signal low - VAF MAF
Transmission Oil Temperature (TOT) signal low (possibly grounded) - Transmissions
67 Park/Neutral circuit fault - PNP
Transmission Manual Lever Position (MLP) sensor circuit - Transmissions
(M) Intermittent Park Neutral Position (PNP) sensor fault - PNP
68 Idle Tracking Switch (ITS) circuit (possibly grounded) - ISC
Vane Air Temperature (VAT) sensor out of range or grounded - VAT
3.8L AXOD -Transmission Temperature Switch (TTS) open - Transmissions
Electronic Transmission - Transmission Oil Temperature (TOT) sensor was overheated - Transmissions
69 AXOD transmission (O) 3/2 switch closed (possible short circuit) - Transmissions
AXOD (M) 3/2 switch open (poss short to power) - Transmissions
E4OD 3/4 shift problem - Transmissions
70 (M) 3.8L AXOD - Data link to instrument cluster fault. Service any other EEC codes, erase memory and retest.
If code is still present refer to instrument cluster diagnosis manual.
71 (M) 1.9L TBI, 2.3L TBI, 2.5L TBI - ITS signal was grounded when throttle should have been opening ITS - ISC
ISC motor problem or Idle Tracking Switch (ITS) signal wire shorted to ground - ISC
(M) 1.9L MFI - PCM re-initialized. Possible electrical noise, case ground or intermittent VPWR problem - VPWR Diagnosis
(M) 3.8L AXOD - Data link to instrument cluster fault - See code 70
72 (R) No MAP or MAF change in "goose" test - retest, check for frequency or voltage change - MAP MAF
(M) 1.9L MFI - VPWR circuit to PCM was intermittent - VPWR Diagnosis
(M) 2.3L T/C - PCM re-initialized. Possible electrical noise, case ground or intermittent VPWR problem - VPWR Diagnosis
(M) 3.8L AXOD - Message center data link circuit fault - See code 70
73 (O) Rerun test, if 73 is still output replace TPS
(R) No Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) change in "goose" test. Must get at least 25% throttle rotation - TPS
74 Was brake depressed after engine ID was received ?
Brake On Off (BOO) signal open or short to ground - BOO
75 Brake On Off (BOO) signal shorted to power - BOO
76 Vane Air Flow (VAF) did not respond to "goose" test - VAF
77 System did not receive "goose" test - see TESTS
78 (M) VPWR circuit to PCM was intermittent or the PCM is bad VPWR Diagnosis
79 A/C is on or pin 10 is shorted to power
80 SERIES CODES GENERALLY ARE CIRCUIT PROBLEMS THAT COULD BE WIRING, RELAY OR SOLENOID RELATED.
ONLY ONE OF THE CIRCUITS LISTED UNDER THE CODE IS USED ON EACH VEHICLE. THE FAULT IS IN WHICHEVER SOLENOID OR CIRCUIT IS PRESENT ON THE VEHICLE
81 Boost control solenoid - Solenoids
AIRD solenoid - Solenoids and Air Injection
3.0L SHO - Inlet Air Solenoid - Solenoids
82 2.3L TC - Fan Control wire shorted to ground - A/C and Fan Circuits
AIRB solenoid - Solenoids and Air Injection
3.8L SC - Super Charger Bypass Solenoid - Solenoids
83 High Electro Drive Fan circuit fault - A/C and Fan Circuits
EGR Control solenoid - Solenoids
3.0L SHO - Low Speed Fuel Pump Relay circuit - Power / Fuel Pump Circuits
84 EGR Vacuum Regulator - Solenoids
EGR cutoff solenoid - Solenoids
EGR Vent solenoid - Solenoids
85 2.3L T/C Automatic - 3/4-4/3 Shift solenoid - Transmissions
CANP solenoid (ALL 1989) - Solenoids
(M) 1.9L MFI - System has corrected rich condition - Fuel control
86 2.3L or 2.9L Truck - A4LD 3/4 shift solenoid - Transmissions
(M) 1.9L MFI - System has corrected lean condition - Fuel control
87 (O) Fuel pump circuit fault (check inertia switch) - Power / Fuel Pump Circuits
Vehicles with 2BBL carb - Temperature Compensated Accelerator Pump Solenoid - Solenoids
(M) intermittent in fuel pump primary circuit - Power / Fuel Pump Circuits
NOTE: On some Escorts with automatic seat belts this code is normal IN MEMORY due to the wiring
88 Throttle Kicker Solenoid - Solenoids
Variable Voltage Choke relay circuit fault - VVC
Fan Control circuit fault - A/C and Fan Circuits
A4LD - Converter Clutch Override solenoid - Transmissions
Electronic Ignition - IDM, DPI or spout circuit fault - Ignition Systems
89 A4LD - Converter Clutch Override solenoid - Transmissions
AXOD Torque Converter Control solenoid circuit - Transmissions
Exhaust Heat Control (heat riser) solenoid circuit - Solenoids
90 SERIES FUEL/AIR INJECTION CODES ON VEHICLES WITH DUAL OXYGEN SENSORS REFER TO THE LEFT OR FRONT SENSOR. EXCEPT: 1984-1988 3.8L ENGINES: RIGHT SENSOR
91 (R, M) System running lean - Fuel control
Transmission SS 1 circuit/solenoid problem - Transmissions
92 (R) System running rich - Fuel control
Transmission SS 2 circuit/solenoid problem - Transmissions
93 (O) Throttle linkage binding or bad ISC motor ISC (R) HO2S not reading - Fuel control
Transmission TCC circuit/solenoid problem - Transmissions
94 AIR system inoperative - Air Injection
Transmission TCC circuit/solenoid problem - Transmissions
95 (O) Fuel pump: open, bad ground or always on - Power / Fuel Pump Circuits
(R) AIR not Diverting (AIRD) - Air Injection
(M) Possible bad fuel pump ground or open between fuel pump and pin 8 at PCM (Fuel Pump Monitor signal) - Power / Fuel Pump Circuits
96 (O) Fuel pump monitor circuit shows no power - Power / Fuel Pump Circuits
(R) AIR Bypass (AIRB) not working - Air Injection
(M) (Service 87 code first if present) Fuel pump relay or battery power feed was open - Power / Fuel Pump Circuits
97 E4OD OD cancel light circuit failure - Transmissions
98 (R) Did not pass KOEO yet (Get 11 in KOEO first)
Transmission EPC circuit/solenoid failure - Transmissions
99 (R) ISC needs to learn (Let idle for 2 minutes; Erase memory and retest)
Transmission EPC circuit/solenoid failure - Transmissions
Definitions

ACT Air Charge Temperature Sensor / BP See MAP /
EEC Electronic Engine Control System
ECT Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
EGR Exhaust Gas Recirculation Valve
-- EVP Valve Position Sensor
EGR / HEGO Heated Exhaust Gas Oxygen Sensor
KOEO Key On Engine Off
KOER Key On Engine Running
MAF Mass Air Flow Sensor
MAP Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor
MLP Manual Lever Position
PCM Powertrain Control Module
SPOUT Distributor Jumper to Allow Initial Timing
TP Throttle Position Sensor



3 digit Code Definitions

111 System checks OK
112 (O,M) Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor is/was low or grounded - IAT
113 (O,M) IAT sensor is/was high or open - IAT
114 (O,R) IAT sensor out of range - IAT
116 (O,R) Engine Coolant (ECT) sensor out of range - ECT
117 (O,M) ECT sensor is/was low or grounded - ECT
118 (O,M) ECT sensor is/was high or open - ECT
121 (O,R,M) Throttle Position (TP) sensor out of range - TPS
122 (O,M) TP low (possibly grounded or open circuit) - TPS
123 (O,M) TP is/was high or short to power - TPS
124 (M) TP voltage was higher than expected - Fuel control
125 (M) TP voltage was lower than expected - Fuel control
126 (O,R,M) MAP or BARO sensor out of range - ">MAP
128 (M) MAP vacuum has not been changing - check vacuum lines - ">MAP
129 (R) No MAP or Mass Air Flow sensor change during "goose" test - MAP MAF
136 (R) Oxygen sensor not switching/system lean Left or Front HO2S - Fuel control
137 (R) Oxygen sensor not switching/system rich Left or Front HO2S - Fuel control
138 (R) Fault in Cold Start Injector circuit - Fuel control
139 (M) Oxygen sensor not switching Left or Front HO2S - Fuel control
144 (M) Oxygen sensor not switching Single, Right or Rear HO2S - Fuel control
157 (R,M) Mass Air Flow signal is/was low or grounded - MAF
158 (O,R,M) MAF sensor is/was high or short to power - MAF
159 (O,R) MAF sensor is/was out of range - MAF
167 (R) No Throttle Position sensor change in "goose" test (must get at least 25% rotation) - TPS
171 (M) Oxygen sensor not switching - system was at adaptive limits - Single, Right or Rear HO2S - Fuel control
172 (R,M) Oxygen sensor not switching - system is or was lean - Single, Right or Rear HO2S - Fuel control
173 (R,M) Oxygen sensor not switching - system is or was rich - Single, Right or Rear HO2S - Fuel control
174 (M) Oxygen sensor was slow in switching Single, Right or Rear HO2S - Fuel control
175 (M) Oxygen sensor not switching - system was at adaptive limits - Left or Front HO2S - Fuel control
176 (M) Oxygen sensor not switching - system is or was lean Left or Front HO2S - Fuel control
177 (M) Oxygen sensor not switching - system was rich Left or Front HO2S - Fuel control
178 (M) Oxygen sensor was slow in switching Left or Front HO2S - Fuel control
179 (M) Fuel system was rich at part throttle Single, Right or Rear HO2S - Fuel control
181 (M) Fuel system was lean at part throttle Single, Right or Rear HO2S - Fuel control
182 (M) Fuel system was rich at idle Single, Right or Rear HO2S - Fuel control
183 (M) Fuel system was lean at idle Single, Right or Rear HO2S - Fuel control
184 (M) Mass Air (MAF) output higher than expected - Fuel control
185 (M) Mass Air (MAF) output lower than expected - Fuel control
186 (M) Injector pulse width longer than expected or Mass Air Flow (MAF) lower than expected - Fuel control
187 Injector pulse width shorter than expected or Mass Air Flow (MAF) higher than expected - Fuel control
188 (M) Fuel system was rich at part throttle - Left or Front HO2S - Fuel control
189 (M) Fuel system was lean at part throttle - Left or Front HO2S - Fuel control
191 (M) Fuel system was rich at idle - Left or Front HO2S - Fuel control
192 (M) Fuel system was lean at idle - Left or Front HO2S - Fuel control
193 Failure in Flexible Fuel (FF) sensor circuit - Fuel control
194 (M) Perform cylinder balance test to check for inoperative injectors
195 (M) Perform cylinder balance test to check for inoperative injectors
211 (M) Ignition PIP signal was erratic or missing - Ignition Systems
212 (M) Ignition TACH signal was erratic (module/wiring) or SPOUT circuit fault - Ignition Systems
213 (R) Ignition SPOUT or SAW circuit open or shorted - Ignition Systems
214 (M) Error in Cylinder ID (CID) circuit or signal - Ignition Systems
215 (M) Primary circuit failure - ignition coil 1 - Ignition Systems
216 (M) Primary circuit failure - ignition coil 2 - Ignition Systems
217 (M) Primary circuit failure - ignition coil 3 - Ignition Systems
218 (M) IDM signal open or high or left coil pack failure - Ignition Systems
219 (M) SPOUT circuit failure, timing defaulted to 10 degrees - follow code 213 diagnosis
222 (M) IDM open or high or right coil pack failure - Ignition Systems
223 (M) Dual Plug (DPI), SPOUT or IDM circuit fault - Ignition Systems
224 (M) Failure in ignition coil primary circuit - Ignition Systems
225 (R) Knock sensor not tested (ignore if not pinging) - KS
226 (O) Ignition Diagnostic Monitor (IDM) signal fault - Ignition Systems
232 (M) EI primary coil circuit failure - Ignition Systems
238 (M) EI primary circuit failure - ignition coil 4 - Ignition Systems
311 (R) AIR system not working - Single, Right or Rear HO2S - Air Injection
312 (R) AIR not diverting - Air Injection
313 (R) AIR not bypassing - Air Injection
314 (R) AIR inoperative, Left or Front HO2S - Air Injection
326 (R,M) Pressure Feedback EGR shows low pressure EGR not seating or not seating intermittently - PFE
327 (O,R,M) EGR feedback signal is/was low - EVR or PFE
328 (O,R,M) EGR Valve Position (EVP) is/was low - EVR
332 (R,M) EGR did not open/respond during test or if memory code, did not open intermittantly - EVR or PFE
334 (O,R,M) EVP sensor is/was high - EVR
335 (O) EGR feedback signal is/was out of range - EVR or PFE
336 (O,R,M) PFE sensor signal is/was was high - ">PFE
337 (O,R,M) EGR feedback signal is/was was high - EVR
338 (M) Cooling system did not heat up (check cooling system / thermostat operation)
339 (M) Cooling system overheated (check cooling system / thermostat operation)
341 (O) Octane jumper installed (information only code to notify you if it is installed)
411 (R) Idle speed system not controlling idle properly (generally idle too high) - ISC
412 (R) Idle speed system not controlling idle properly (generally idle too low) - ISC
452 (M) Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) problem
511 (O) No power to PCM pin 1 or bad PCM (processor)
512 (M) Memory power (PCM pin 1) was interrupted - Was battery disconnected ?
513 (O) Replace processor (PCM) (internal failure)
519 (O) PSP switch/circuit open - PSP
521 (R) Wheel not turned during test or PSP problem - PSP
522 (O) Park/Neutral Position (PNP) or Clutch Pedal Position (CPP) circuit fault - PNP
transmission MLP sensor out of range in park - Transmissions
524 Problem in low speed fuel pump circuit - Power / Fuel Pump Circuits
525 (O,M) Park/Neutral Position (PNP) or Clutch Pedal Position (CPP) circuit fault - PNP
528 (M) System shows voltage at pin 10 (is A/C on ?) or pin 30 (PNP, CPP switch) - PNP
529 (M) Data Communications Link to processor failure
Service any EEC codes, erase memory and retest. If code is still present refer to instrument cluster diagnosis manual.
533 (M) Data Communications Link to instrument cluster failure - see 529
536 (O,R,M) Brake On Off open or shorted to ground - BOO
538 (R) System did not receive "goose" test - TESTS
539 (O) System shows voltage at PCM pin 10. Is A/C on ?
542 (O,M) Fuel pump open, bad ground or always on - - Power / Fuel Pump Circuits
543 (O) Fuel pump monitor circuit shows no power - Power / Fuel Pump Circuits
(M) (Service 556 code first if present) Fuel pump relay or battery power feed was open - Power / Fuel Pump Circuits
551 Problem in Intake Manifold Runner Control (IMRC) solenoid/circuit - Solenoids
552 (O) AIRB solenoid/circuit failure - Solenoids
553 (O) AIRD solenoid/circuit failure - Solenoids
554 (O) Fuel Press Regulator Control solenoid/circuit fault - Power / Fuel Pump Circuits
556 (O,M) Fuel pump relay primary circuit fault - Power / Fuel Pump Circuits
557 (O,M) Low speed pump relay primary circuit fault - Power / Fuel Pump Circuits
558 (O) EGR vacuum regulator solenoid/circuit failure - EVR or PFE or Solenoids
559 (O) A/C relay primary circuit fault - A/C and Fan Circuits
563 (O) High Fan Control (HFC) circuit failure - A/C and Fan Circuits
564 (O) Fan Control (FC) circuit failure - A/C and Fan Circuits
565 (O) Canister Purge 1 solenoid/circuit failure - Solenoids
566 (O) transmission 3/4 shift solenoid/circuit - Transmissions
569 (O) Canister Purge 2 solenoid/circuit failure - Solenoids
578 (M) A/C pressure sensor VREF short to ground - A/C and Fan Circuits
579 (M) ACP sensor did not change with A/C on - A/C and Fan Circuits
581 (M) Cooling fan current was excessive - A/C and Fan Circuits
582 (O) Open cooling fan circuit - A/C and Fan Circuits
583 (M) Fuel pump current was excessive - Power / Fuel Pump Circuits
584 (M) Open power ground circuit - Power / Fuel Pump Circuits
585 (M) A/C clutch current was excessive - A/C and Fan Circuits
586 (M) Open circuit in A/C clutch - A/C and Fan Circuits
587 (O, M) Communication problem between PCM and Variable Control Relay Module (VCRM) - Power / Fuel Pump Circuits
617 (M) Transmission shift failure (1/2 shift) - Transmissions
618 (M) Transmission shift failure (2/3 shift) - Transmissions
619 (M) Transmission shift failure (3/4 shift) - Transmissions
621 (O) Solenoid/circuit failure - shift solenoid 1 - Transmissions
622 (O) Solenoid/circuit failure - shift solenoid 2 - Transmissions
624 (O,M) Solenoid/circuit failure -Electronic Pressure Control (EPC) current is high - Transmissions
625 (O,M) Solenoid/circuit failure - Electronic Pressure Control (EPC) current is low - Transmissions
626 (O) Transmission Coast Clutch (CCS) Solenoid/circuit fault - Transmissions
627 (O) Torque Converter Clutch circuit fault - Transmissions
628 (M) Excessive converter clutch slippage - Transmissions
629 (O,M) Torque Converter Clutch circuit fault - Transmissions
631 (O) Overdrive Cancel Light circuit problem - Transmissions
632 (R) E4OD - Transmission Control Switch (TCS) should be cycled once between engine ID and Goose test
633 (O) 4x4L switch should be in 4x2 or 4x4 high for the test
634 (O,M) Park/Neutral Position (PNP) or Clutch Pedal Position (CPP) circuit fault
Electronic shift transmission - Manual Lever Position (MLP) sensor out of range in PARK - Transmissions
636 (O,R) Transmission Oil Temperature (TOT) sensor out of range - Transmissions
637 (O,M) TOT sensor is/was high or open - Transmissions
638 (O,M) TOT sensor is/was low or grounded - Transmissions
639 (R,M) Transmission Speed sensor (TSS) circuit fault - Transmissions
641 (O) Transmission solenoid/circuit failure Shift Solenoid 3 - Transmissions
643 (O)(M) Torque Converter Clutch (TCC) circuit - Transmissions
645 (M) Transmission 1st gear failure - Transmissions
646 (M) Transmission 2nd gear failure - Transmissions
647 (M) Transmission 3rd gear failure - Transmissions
648 (M) Transmission 4th gear failure - Transmissions
649 (M) Transmission EPC system failure - Transmissions
651 (M) Transmission EPC solenoid/circuit fault - Transmissions
652 (O) Torque Converter Clutch (TCC) circuit fault - Transmissions
654 (O) Transmission selector not in PARK - Transmissions
656 (M) Torque Converter Clutch (TCC) slip - Transmissions
657 (M) Transmission temperature was excessive - Transmissions
998 (R) Did not pass Key On Engine Off test yet (Get 111 in KOEO first)
(O) Transmission Electronic Pressure Control (EPC) solenoid/circuit fault - Transmissions
Code Definitions:

ACT Air Charge Temperature Sensor
BP See MAP
EEC Electronic Engine Control System
ECT Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
EGR Exhaust Gas Recirculation Valve
EVP EGR Valve Position Sensor
HEGO Heated Exhaust Gas Oxygen Sensor
KOEO Key On Engine Off
KOER Key On Engine Running
MAF Mass Air Flow Sensor
MAP Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor
MLP Manual Lever Position
PCM Powertrain Control Module
SPOUT Distributor Jumper to Allow Initial Timing
TP Throttle Position Sensor

Gentlemen,
                I turned the key to "accessories", hooked up my jumper as instructed in option #3. I waited for codes and nothing. My engine light stayed on but I had forgotten that it does that. It  will turn off after I drive for about a mile. So, I went to option #1 and hooked up a buzzer. Nothing in "accessories", turn the car on and I got 4 beeps in a row and nothing after that.

Right now I think what I need is a process. I have check the IAC valve, read codes, and timing. I don't think I can test the IAC valve until every thing else is working properly. I'm not getting any codes that makes sense. so, do I try to tune the car first? Thanks!

I did what I was advised to do with the IAC valve. I went and tried to change the distributor on tooth in both directions and it would not start. so, how do I get the timing to 10 degrees before TDC? I don't think I'm moving it more than one tooth at a time.

Forget about the "accessories" position of the ignition switch. This doesn't power up the EEC.
Put ignition in the RUN position without starting. This will run self tests and present "on demand codes" and then "memory codes".
This is called KOEO (Key On Engine Off) mode.

KOER (Key On Engine Running) mode will present the engine code (4 beeps for 8 cylinder) then run for a couple of minutes before presenting codes.

Like I said, my engine light will stay on for about a mile of driving before it goes out. I have had the buzzer set up and the "RUN" position for about 8 minutes and the engine light is still on and no buzzer. I did get 4 beeps when it was running, but I never heard any thing after that.

On the basic instrument panel the red engine light indicates low oil pressure or overheating. It normally goes off after the engine starts and the oil pressure comes up. It has nothing to do with the EEC or codes.
Right the engine light should stay on when the engine is not running.

A couple of questions:
1.On your test jumper set-up, do you jumper the STI pig-tail to Signal Return in the 6 pin connector or to ground?
2. Without any test jumpers, when you put the ignition in RUN without starting does the fuel pump run for a couple of seconds then shut off? If it does, this indicates that the software in the EEC is running.

My mistake... I meant "service light". I think I know what's going on. About 2-3 years ago I noticed then that I could no longer use my timing light to tune my engine. So, I have tuned it by ear since. I am willing to bet that my timing chain jumped a tooth way back then. What I don't understand is the fact that my car has always started good and run well. It also has past emissions every year.

Time for me to buy a new engine or have this one rebuilt.

How does one tune an engine, especially one controlled by the EEC, by ear? Under the very best of cirspoogestances, you would be guessing... being wrong 99.9999% of the time. There are only a couple of ways that you can actually "tune" an engine, with an EEC in control.  The first is valve train timing, by using a degree wheel to degree the cam and using either adjustable or offset timing sets. The second is initial or static timing, accomplished on a stock ignition by removing the spout connector, which effectively prevents the EEC from making the thousands of timing adjustments made during normal operation.
     
 

I doubt it for a couple of reasons.  The first being that if the chain has enough slack to jump once, there is nothing preventing it from doing so again.  Secondly, such a change would be more that the EEC could compensate for and would very likely throw all kinds of codes, or knock and ping so much that the car would be all but undrivable, let alone idle smoothly.
 


I have no idea of how many miles are on your motor, but if she is passing emissions, a rebuild might not be at all necessary.  More than likely, you may be at the point of needing the services of a competent mechanic, who will have the tools, equipment and training to do a compression test, test for timing chain stretch, etc.  I am not saying that you can't do all of these things, but it is sometimes more cost effective to pay for the services of a professional than waste your time and resources "chasing bubbles" as Tom puts it.  It is also entirely possible that you have more than a single problem to troubleshoot, in which case, even the best technicians sometimes agonize over, due tot he odd set of combines symptoms.  Sometimes, one problems masks the symptoms of one or more additional problems, all of which need to be traced down and corrected.

Ok clearly at this point you need professional help with this car. I have the suspicion that it is HACKED UP by your own admission. Clearly if the car runs you can retrieve codes. Unless you messed with the ALDL connector. And at this point i think you just might have. By the way if you mentioned that you car has an SES light some early fords did not!!! I think you would have saved us a lot of lap top time. And brow beating. Because when you blew the fuse link to the EEC relay that would not allow it to energize and I would have immediately sent you to the EEC relay and my fingers would have had time to HEAL !!! No EEC relay no power to the ECM NO SES LIGHT, HELLO !!!  When shooting troubles all info is necessary. As for you thinking your chain jumped it is possible and when you had this car in a million pieces why was that ignored. You clearly pointed it out after you dug in to that engine at least 4 times in the past weeks and ignored a stretched chain. Something is going on here that does not meet the EYE!!!! But then again i am intrigued with your process in fixing this car. And i give you an A for effort. I hope you have another car as a daily driver. And just a thought. Do you have a digital camera.  You failed to post photos of things i asked. It is no big deal and you just might not have one Thanks Tom

Sorry just being honest!!! No car can have all these issues!!! And run???

:toilet:

Like I said on my other "Timing" post, I need to get ready to go to a wake today. I will get back with you. I will do the compression check later and #1 cylinder is on the passenger side first cylinder by the alternator. Thanks, for all the support!!! Oh. I will get my camera working so I can send pictures!!!

posting pics
get them on your computer and resize to max of 145k per picture.
  "use microsoft picture manager to do this"
  Right click on any one of your pics and "open with" microsoft picture manager"
  right click, "view thumbnails
  right click "select all"
  goto to edit and then pick resize picture
  next locate the area where there is a box to change the picture size in a percentage.......  reduce it to its original width / height.
 close and save.

***you may want to have a folder for your originals,, the ones you resize will be less detailed.  make duplicate folders and only resize the pics you are uploading here if you want.
 
type your post
click on "go advanced" (new screen pops up)
down below click on manage attachements (separate screen pops up)
click on "add files"
--within "add files" click on "select files
  -- this will allow you to browse where you stored your pics on your computer
  -- double click on the pic and it will be added to the list
  --if you see a "+" sign, then click to add another picture (limit of 3 per post)
  OR.... you may see three empty spaces to browse for pictures.

click on upload and the pics will appear in a box down on the bottom.
click the check mark to "select all"
off to the right bottom click on "done"

the second screen will close and you will be back to your post you are typing but you will see the pictures in an icon down below.
finish typing your post then click on "submit reply"

First thing I will do is a compression check (yes, I have a tester). Then I need to get the car timed so it will run again. then I can try for codes again. I do have a cell phone, so if I can figure out how to download them, I will. It should be easy checking the timing chain for slop. I should have a little time in the morning before we celebrate Thanksgiving Day.

Testing: Sorry wrong car! (lol)

2nd Testing:

I will post some more pictures on my other post.

so is this fixed?

jcassity,
            Today I will work on the car. I had to go out of town this weekend. I will keep you informed as to progress. Thanks!

Well, I got the wiring harness looking a lot better. I encased it in new plastic flex hose like it had when I got the car. I finished soldering and putting shrink sleeve where I needed it. I put a big rubber gasket on my intake filter where it mounts to the side wall. Now no inside air will leak in. Tomorrow, I need to work on my exhaust leak.