Took the Cougar out tonight for the first time in a few months. After cruising the countryside for 20 minutes or so I came back into town and stopped at Wal-Mart on my way back home. When I came out the car wouldn't start. It tried to a few times, but once it caught I had to work the gas pedal like crazy to keep it going. I did get it going once long enough to go a few more blocks, but it died at a stop sign. Eventually, I ran the battery down and I had to push the car off the road and hoof it 2 miles back to my house. Good thing I need the exercise.
My guess is I have in my fuel. The car has been sitting a lot, and it only has 3 gallons in the tank. It has probably been 9 months or more since I filled up. So I'm thinking a fuel filter to get it home and then maybe a tank flush or replacement after that? (and then start driving the darn thing more!)
Any other ideas or things to check? Hopefully tomorrow I can at least get it going long enough to get it back home.
Fuel pump. I'd try a few gallons of fresh gas and a filter first, but listen for the pump to prime and see if you hear it or not. I had that happen twice. Fuel pump both times.
Check for spark and fuel.
If I had to guess, I would second everything Vinny said.
...Just went through this scenario with another late '80s Ford a week ago. Likely the MAP sensor. In the 88 3.8 T-Bird it is mounted on the back firewall on the passenger side. Disconnect the vacuum hose and the engine should run (maybe). I replaced it in the other Ford and the car acted like nothing ever happened. How something that small and otherwise unnoticed can wreak so much havoc---I dunno. I replaced the battery in the car because it was ancient and I thought it was not putting out enough voltage (wrong). Picture:
JR
I thank you much for the input. I'm just an amateur hack, so I appreciate the chance to learn something from people who know more than I do.
I added a little more gas and changed the fuel filter. That wasn't the problem. And I can hear the fuel pump kick on when I turn the key.
I also disconnected the vacuum hose from the MAP sensor, but that didn't make any difference. The one on there looks like it could be original, so I will probably go ahead and get a new one here shortly. Probably just try a cheap one, though. Looks like I can get a BWD at Advance Auto for about $31 with online 20% off coupon code.
I would check the fuel pressure with a gauge, not just by the sound of the pump. A weak pump may still prime but not give you enough pressure. Also, the short hose attached to the pump may be split allowing your fuel pressure to bleed off back into the tank.
Mine did the same thing. I ended up replacing a 'J' shaped piece of rubber hose on my fuel pump. It was so rotted away that I had no fuel pressure. Cost about 2 bucks and took less than an hour.
Yeah, I think that is the next step, too. MAP sensor didn't do anything. I talked to the mechanic of the family and he said fuel pressure was the first thing that came to mind. Like Loaded87IROC and kevbey, he also mentioned that short hose right outside the tank, saying it has been known to rot.
The thing I don't get about that hose is, if it was bad wouldn't gas come running down under the car after turning the key on and/or cranking for awhile?
Either way, replacing that hose or the pump requires removing the tank, no? I don't really feel like doing that on the side of the road, so I guess the next order of business is to tow the thing home. I know that the 2000 Ford Taurus wasn't designed with towing in mind, but surely it can tow a Cougar across 2 miles of city streets if we go slow in low gear? The harder thing might be finding a good place to anchor. I don't have a tow rope, but it will probably be a good investment to buy one.
This is the downside of moving to a town where you don't know anyone. It leaves a guy short on buddies to call up when this kind of stuff happens. My wife is probably not going to be thrilled about being a part of this. :disappoin
But she's a pretty good sport.
Anyhow, thanks again for the input. I'll keep you posted.
Yep, gotta drop the tank to swap the pump, THAT is why I added the panel in the trunk to access the pump. Those "bleepin'" times when you're stuck in some area where you really don't have a good place to drop it.....especially if the tank is full.
Sorry, I should have mentioned that the hose is located on the fuel pump inside the tank.
Vinnie - I was thinking that an access panel would be helpful when I was working on mine. Can you give me any info on what you did to create yours? Possibly have any pics or measurements you'd be willing to share?
You aren't going to drop the tank without further diagnosis are you? I would be sure that is the problem before I went that far, so far you really haven't done any kind of diagnosis besides pulling that vacuum line off.
Very first two things I would do is stick a fuel pressure gauge on there and make sure it is or isn't reaching the proper pressure. Literally takes seconds and you can buy a gauge for like $40. I would also make sure spark is reaching your spark plugs (pull spark plug out, leave it attached to plug wire, ground the plug out on one of the brackets on the front of your engine, then have someone turn the car over and see if the plug is actually getting fire).
Also, pulling the error codes would have told you if the MAP was bad.
Well it was a hassle, but the car is back in my driveway. It will be a few days before I have the time to mess with it again.
T-BirdX3, O'Reilly offers a fuel pressure gauge as a loaner tool. So I will be checking that out.
softtouch, I should get more familiar with pulling codes, though I don't have a scanner. A few years back, I tried the deal with the jumper wire in the plug and the check engine light. It didn't really help with whatever the problem was at that time, and I've just never done it since. But it probably would have been (and still might be) a good idea for this problem.
Thanks again for the help, I will post an update after I have a chance to check the other things.
Code scanner at O'Reillys is about $30.
Darren
I am finally getting back to this. Borrowed a fuel pressure gauge from the auto parts store. Hooked it up, turned the key on a few times, absolutely nothing. Needle does not move at all. I can still hear the fuel pump buzzing for a couple seconds when I turn the key on.
I'm assuming I did it right. There doesn't seem to be much to it. Just screw the thing onto the valve with the correct adapter.
So I just want to verify that a reading of total zero is plausible before I go ahead and drop the tank to check the pump and the condition of the hoses there.
Thanks again for the assistance!
Well I think that test was mostly worthless. As a control, I decided to test the fuel pressure on our 2000 Taurus. It also registered as nil. It turns out the kit's Ford adapter is . When I open the Taurus's valve with a screwdriver, fuel sprays out. But when I put the adapter on and try to open it, nothing. So fuel never even makes it to the gauge.
I think I may still have a fuel pressure problem with the Cougar (when I open the Cougar's valve with a screwdriver, basically no gas comes out) but this fuel presure gauge didn't tell me anything. I guess that is what you get with a loaner tool, even though this one looks brand new.
I was going to suggest seeing if fuel would come out the way you did it with a screw driver. Did you depress the schrader valve on the fuel line while someone was cycling the ignition key? Sometime the pressure bleeds off on the fuel line pretty quick on older cars.
If you still have no pressure and you are sure the fuel pump is cycling when the ignition key is turned on I would definitely drop the tank and see what is going on. If you drop it you may as well get a pump, sock, and the rubber hose that goes between the pump and hard line. I would suggest a new external fuel filter as well if you have not already done that. IF there is a bunch of rust of in the bottom of the tank have it cleaned as it will save you some headache down the road.
Darren
I remember running into the problem with a fuel pressure gauge that you are having. There was a schrader valve in one of the hose sections that wasn't getting opened. There was nothing to push on the valve. I can't remember if it was on the other end of the ford adapter or on the hose the adapter hooks to. I had to take the valve stem out of the schrader.
Not talking about the schrader on the fuel rail, don't take the valve stem out of that.
Well I pulled the tank this afternoon. It was a little easier than I expected, even with 7-8 gallons inside. The driver's side bolt came out pretty easily. The passenger side was a little more difficult, but still not terrible. Both bolts have some rusted out threads so I hope it isn't too hard to find new bolts. The last tank I pulled was on my first car, a 1973 Mercury Montego. On that one, after the bolts were removed you could rotate the strap 90 degrees and then remove the other end. But they kind of get in the way on this car. Maybe I just don't know how to remove that other side.
Anyway, if I didn't need a new fuel pump before, I do now, as I broke off one of the metal tubes. For some reason that hose just wouldn't budge even after removing the plastic locking clip. But the metal was so weak, it wouldn't surprise me if it already had holes in it.
There is some rust and plenty of dirt on top, but the tank looks great inside. No visible sediment and no rust anywhere. No wonder the fuel filter I replaced seemed totally fine. I was losing daylight today so I just threw some duct tape over the openings and tomorrow I will clean off the outside, open it up, and try to get that gas out.
By the way, how do you change the overall subject line on this thread? It isn't really about being stalled anymore, it is about solving a fuel problem. I'd change it if I knew how.

Well I realize now that what broke off was not part of the fuel pump but just the hanger. It is too bad because those things look pricey. But I think I would have had to replace the hanger anyway, as wasted as that metal is. Wonder why they cost so much? They are nearly double the cost of the pump, itself.
The tube inside the tank between the pump and the hanger is all cracked up, wouldn't surprise me if it was leaking. I suppose it is possible that the pump is fine, but I've had the car for 90k and I've never changed it, and I have my doubts that the orginal owner changed it in the 90k they owned it, either (any way to tell if it is original?).
While I have this thing down, is there any reason to change the fuel level sending unit or the carbon filter, or should I just leave well enough alone? The lock ring on the fuel level sender is all rusted up, but from what I can tell everything looks fine inside the tank, and I've never had any issues with my fuel gauge. If I don't replace it, should I re-apply the goop inside the electrical plug on the top of the tank? What is in there looks pretty dried out. Is that just dialectric grease?
Give Vinnie (member here) a shout as I think he was able to source new locking rings and o-rings. If you can get one for the sending unit you might as well replace it now to ensure you will not just have to drop the tank when you really don't want to. Holler at hcor (another member here that has a nice selection of used parts) and see if he has a pickup assembly for the fuel pump as he has alot of parts for our cars. What carbon filter are you talking about? Yes, clean the connector and you can get the same grease at Ford. I have cleaned out those connectors before and used dielectric grease with no issues but it does not take much. You are just trying to seal out water and dust.
Darren
Thanks.
I already purchased the lock ring and gasket for the fuel pump hanger online for $10 (total rip off if you ask me but that was the cheapest I could find). From the looks of the thread he has going, Vinnie's got a lot on his mind these days, so I will probably just order the fuel level sender ring from the same place. Can't hurt to replace it while I've got the tank down.
I'll probably just use some dialectric grease since I have some on hand, instead of hunting down the Ford product.
Carbon filter is probably not the right name for it. It is the line that traps the vapors, and I thought it has an actived carbon canister in there somewhere.
I think I'm more worried about the bolts for the tank straps than I am about the lock rings. Both of them have some decent wear on them. I wonder if I can just buy a couple machined bolts from the hardware store, or is there anything special about those particular bolts?
Cool deal on the locking rings. I bought one from Ford and $10 is cheap compared to them so I would have been glad to pay that. Yeah the canister on the passenger side frame rail, I would just leave it alone as there is a solenoid which opens and the vapors are sucked into the motor and burned or at least that is my understanding of it. Take the tank strap bolts to Home Depot, Lowes, or ACE and get a Grade 5 or metric equivalent (cannot remember the thread pitch on those) and a flat washer for each. Just in case you wanted the exact ones they are here:
http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/item/HDW-9092A/1979-93-Mustang-Fuel-Tank-Strap-Hardware
Darren
Thanks for the info. In case anyone is interested, this is the lock ring I got: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002D75NOG/ref=pe_175190_21431760_M3T1_ST1_dp_1.
It is kinda weird because Dorman makes two lock rings for the fuel tank, but it looks like they are both for the pump sender. I got the 579-004, but they also make a 55811 that you can get for a few bucks cheaper on Ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dorman-Help-55811-Locking-Ring-/170917576919?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27cb7b40d7&vxp=mtr.
I hunted them down on the Dorman website, and I'm still not sure if there is any difference between them: http://www.dormanproducts.com/gsearch.aspx?q=inmeta:year%3D1987+inmeta:make%3DMERCURY+inmeta:model%3DCOUGAR%253A%2520LS+inmeta:engine%3DV8%2520%252D%25205%252E0L%2520%2528302%2520CID%2529%253A%2520GAS%253A%2520FI%253A%2520N%253A%2520F+inmeta:parttype%3DFuel%2520Tank%2520Sending%2520Unit%2520Lock%2520Ring&dnavs=inmeta:year%3D1987+inmeta:make%3DMERCURY+inmeta:model%3DCOUGAR%253A%2520LS+inmeta:engine%3DV8%2520%252D%25205%252E0L%2520%2528302%2520CID%2529%253A%2520GAS%253A%2520FI%253A%2520N%253A%2520F+inmeta:parttype%3DFuel%2520Tank%2520Sending%2520Unit%2520Lock%2520Ring&type=parttype
For what it is worth, Dorman tells me that the 55811 and the 579-004 are the same part. They just give it different numbers for different vendors. Wish I would have checked into that first, I could have saved myself 4 whole bucks! Ha.
So I did go ahead and buy new bolts. I found the same part number that Darren recommended on this website (http://"http://www.cjponyparts.com/fuel-tank-strap-mounting-bolt-1979-1993/p/HW2634/")for a couple bucks cheaper. They work fine, though the bolts are a little shorter than the originals, so you have to get the tank a little closer to final position before the threads will catch.
Anyhow, I got everything back in order and the car fired right up. There is one problem, though. I have a leak. I'm sure it is on the line out of the fuel pump sending unit, because I had a problem there when I removed the tank. That line would not come off. The metal line on the sending unit (which was almost rusted through anyway) broke off before the fuel line connector came loose. And when I did finally get the connector off, the o-ring and the plastic ring that holds it in place stayed on the metal line of the sending unit. I worked them off and put them back in the connector, but I'm not surprised if that is what's leaking.
Looks as though something like this is in order: http://www.dormanproducts.com/p-20636-800-054.aspx. According to the parts applications, this is the only style of connector that is an "exact fit." However, I don't need to replace any of the actual fuel line. Dorman also sells standalone connectors, but it looks like they might be universal applications: http://www.dormanproducts.com/p-5922-800-084.aspx. Wonder if there is any reason I couldn't use that?
Also, can anyone verify the size of the sending unit metal tubing and the size of the nylon fuel line for the connection running OUT of the pump/sender? Is it really 5/16 metal to 3/8 nylon? Thanks!
I never have too much on mind to help where I can.
Hey Vinnie, how did you A: locate the position of the access panel, and B: how did you design the panel to give you access but keep the trunk dry? This sounds like something I may want to try in the future.
I pulled the carpet, and you can see a raised area on the passenger side of the trunk floor, kind of back a little.
It's right above the fuel pump area. I drilled a hole in the floor and could see the location of the lines and all from the hole. I put tape on the bit by wrapping it a few times so the bit couldn't go too deep through the floor and into something it shouldn't. I should've lowered the tank first, but when I did it, it had 22 gallons of gas in it. I decided to move forward with operation floor hole. I got the water hose and sprayed water up on top of the tank, and then got my Dremel tool and cut a hole in the trunk. It took a little extra tpuppies to get it the right size.
Once I did that, a swapped the pump and re-assembled the pump hanger into the tank. I bought a piece of 12x12 steel at Lowe's for cheap, made a cover panel, and used 10 small screws to hold the panel in place over a rubber gasket. I also painted the bare metal surface and edges to prevent rust from starting. No water in the trunk yet, seals fine, and, I can swap pumps in minutes...literally. Less than 15 if I take my time.
Pictures please. I think I may want to do this to my Coupe, the Bird is carbureted so no in-tank pump.
Darren
I got no problem at all with this thread changing over to discussion of Vinnie's access panel (I'm intrigued too) but I'm just gonna jump in for a minute and close up my end of it.
Fuel was definitely leaking when I first fired the car up after re-attaching the tank. But since then, I've run the car quite a bit and driven it around several times, and I haven't seen a single drop of gas. I can't explain that, but I guess if it doesn't start leaking again and eventually proves to be reliable, then I won't worry about it. Just seems kinda weird, though. I think I'd better wait a little longer before filling the tank all the way up just in case I still have to remove it again . . .
Maybe the plastic part containing the clip was not seated on the part attached to the tank which resulted in a leak until it pressured up and seated. Kinda like a bead on a tire when it seats on a rim. Grasping as straws here hoping you don't have to drop the tank again.
I do apologize for the hi-jack in my earlier post. Hopefully Vinnie can start a thread with all the details and leave this one to the hopefully now solved problem.
Darren