1. My Hayne's manual says to jack up the engine to remove the oil pan, but it doesn't say where to put the jack. Only place I see is under the harmonic balancer......
2. How many quarts of transmission fluid does my AOD transmission take? (1986 Cougar 5.0 engine w/automatic transmission) Thanks!
When I jack up an engine, I take the mounts loose and then place the Jack under the bell housing of the transmission. Then lift the engine carefully as high as it will allow. Remember to open your hood first ;-)
Yikes! I am not sure that jacking up the engines weight using the aluminum bell housing is the best idea...
I would probably advise jacking up the engine using the oil pan and then placing a padded jack stand under the crank snout before removing the jack. Another possibility would be to place wooden blocks between the k member and the motor mounts.
Problem is I'm trying to remove the oil pan so I need to find another way to support the engine.
Which is exactly why I said "...before removing the jack."
Removing the pan while the engine is in our cars is a miserable undertaking. The double hump pan requires the engine to be quite high to clear the oil pump pick up. Getting it high enough can be difficult due to the transhiznitting the trans tunnel.
If you are determined to try it, get a cherry picker to raise the engine. This will not only eliminate the need for a jack, but will make it easier to pull the engine the rest of the way out to actually complete the job.
It's pretty likely you'll come to that determination (that pulling the engine is easier), after stuggling a few hours and finding yourself filthy, tired, frustrated and really pissed off. And that's just what it's like getting the pan out. Then you have to get it back in AND not screw up the gasket!
Hope it goes well for you!
X eleventy-million.17 on complete engine removal. trust me, it's easy, and only a bit more work than to merely raise the engine enough to get the pan totally out, and in again.
If I have my tools laid out in an orderly fashion, I bet I could have my engine (and trans) out 2 hours, max. That's driving it in, and getting to it. And no, I'm not kidding. I'm just that familiar with things.
My point is....you'll be much happier if you just rent a cherry picker and do it that way.
I'd pull the whole thing if I had to change the pan
Now, there's a man with experience!
My engine is on the floor right now after fixing the oil leak...
If I had the time and option of pulling the motor, I would too. It would also allow for cleaning the engine compartment, engine and taking care of any other leaks, puddles and drips. Of course, pulling the motor might not be an option for the OP, either due to time, fiscal constraints, lack of experience or lack of equipment.
you would rather support the engine by the crank shaft? I have used my method several times on several cars with no problems. I also changed the oil pan gasket on my 88 bird 5.0 with the engine in the car using this method, the one piece felpro rubber pan gasket is your best friend when doing this with the engine in the car.
If you pull the engine, you could also pull and drain the torque converter and all of your trans fluid would be fresh and new.
I figure I will be pulling the engine soon enough when I have to replace this one. I don't want to support the weight of the engine on the crank. So tomorrow, what I will look at is making a cradle out of wood for my bell housing to spread the pressure. Manual says I need to reach in and remove the oil pump and pick up tube fasteners then drop them in the pan (no clue). That should be all that's left. Thanks!
Honestly, I don't see a problem with that. Bell housing should hold up fine, as long as you don't keep cranking on the jack after everything hits the firewall and undercarage. I was just giving you an idea if you went the engine pulling route.
Removing the oil pump and pickup gives you more room to remove the pan. Done this several times on my old Mustang.
Probably not a very good idea at all to support 400+ pounds of weight on the front of the crank.
Really, I probably have about everything I need disconnected to remove the engine, and I do understand where you guys (ladies included) are coming from. My cougar is my primary source of transportation at this time, and I have a lot to do. If all goes well, I hope to be replacing the engine and transmission in about a year from now. Then I can paint the car (when the engine compartment is empty) and replace the wiring harness. Right now, I'm just getting the rest of the car ready for when I do. I know for a fact that I wouldn't be as far as I am if it wasn't for all your help, so please keep them coming!
I removed that front bellhousing plate and the torque converter had a plug I took out to completely drain it.
Some torque converters have it, others don't.
So, does anyone know how many quarts of transmission fluid my car takes? I guessing 5-6 quarts. Thanks!
http://lmgtfy.com/?q=what+is+the+fluid+capacity+of+a+ford+AOD%3F
a little google search confirmed that if the torque converter is drained the capacity will be 11 quarts.
88turbo,
I tried a search and I guess I didn't type in the right words. I had no idea the transmission took so much fluid. When I took the pan off, I noticed how dirty it was. So, new fluid and filter are in order. Thanks again for your help!
The 84 Owners Manual says the AOD holds 12.3 U.S quarts.