does anyone know the exact size of the stock radiator the one thats in mine now is two small. so im wondering what would be a cheap b ut effective radiator i can put my stock fan shroud on but is the right size for the engine bay
Anything for a stang 5.0 should fit.
My buddies have used 1800radiator, and there about the same price as a stock replacement for a 3 core. But that's going back a couple years.
Here is what I am running in my Coupe and my overheating problems went away. When I say they went away I mean the temp gauge in this Houston 100+ deg heat with the AC on does not budge above 180 Deg. It is not cheap but you can reuse it and it is track tested as well. This will be going into the T-Brid as well. Several of the racing sanctioning bodies (SCCA and NASA) will not allow glycol so the guys used water with Redline Water Wetter. A couple of them have started to run this and the overheating issues have been greatly reduced if not stopped.
http://www.evanscooling.com/products/coolants/high-performance-coolant/
Darren
what did they come stock was it a two core in the 5.0? and the one i have is a one core with no fan shroud. i just bought a brand new 2 core and im picking up a fan shroud you do you guys think that would be enough?
Like the others I went the one for a 5.0 Rustang(lol) I did opt up to what they were calling the heat buster/Max cooling which got me a real radiator. Full copper/brass construction cost more than the standard plastic/aluminum ones. Plus it will last much longer. All the bird stuff bolted right up. Did have to trim the upper Rad mount rubbers so they would squeeze over the thicker tank. That is on an 84 turbo coupe.
Hope that helps
Stuckman
i just bought a aftermarket oem replacement it says its a 2 core one made from aluminum and im picking up a fan shroud im just wondering if you guys think will be enough.
It might not be a bad idea to replace your fan clutch if you still have a belt driven fan. If it spins easily by hand when the engine is hot (and off!) then it's probably in need of replacement. Also, the coolant may need to be flushed as well.
A shroud is always a good idea too. Let us know..
thanks i didnt even think of the fan clutch part. ill try and grab another one i just put the new radiator and brand new antifreeze it didnt solve anything. im going to get a fan shroud and i know fan and see if that solves anything.
Did you check your thermostat? Ive seen plenty stuck, its a cheap part. Might be worth replacing. The modern cars usually will spit a code if the t-stat is stuck open, P0128, I can't tell you how many Ive put in. And why not try a thermally controlled electric fan? Or two electric fans?? One last note, I like the redline water wetter alot, Run it in my uncles super chargers, intercooler system. Water to Air with the redline in there with water. Works great.
i but somethine cold hyper lube and it didnt seem to help and i had thermo controlled fan it had plenty of power output but it wasnt big enough. it made it worse but i found im missing my air dam so i think that might be effecting things what do do you guys think? and the thermostat is good i tested it.
For me the stock radiator will not cut it in the Texas heat with a warmed up 302W let alone a 351W. Make sure you have a fan shroud and good fan. Is your overheating in town, at highway speeds or both? In town means you need more capacity if the fan, fan shroud, and water pump are good to go. Don't forget that the later cars the water pump is reverse rotation. If its on the highway then you need to direct the air over the radiaitor better and/or it needs more capacity.
Radiator Cap
Thermostat (installed correctly)
Water Pump (rotation checked)
Radiator (as big of a unit as you can fit)
Coolant (Evans if you can afford it and if you do get a low pressure cap)
Temperature Gauge (test the sending unit)
Darren
hey thanks alot
does anyone know if the 88 tbird had a air on it?
As far as I know, they all had the air /reflector under the bumper.
well shiznit does anyone have one for sale. i think thats why im overheating on the highway.
You can use a mach 1 "chin spoiler" from the newer mustangs. I have also seen people make them out of garge door sealer rubber strips.
idk what its suppose to look like can someone take a picture of one if they dont mind. like one on there car
Its just a small rubber strip pointed forwards that bolts to your lower radiator support to diflect air from under the bumper into the radiator.
alright ill try to figure something out to work.
PM vinnietbird. He has the Mach 1 chin spoiler on his 88 Sport.
Darren
Hi!! I just saw a comment on air dams and I started wondering... I have a 3.8 which has a coolant temp needle on an '88 running upscale when the weather is 80 F or above. This bird has an initial 15 year history for which the needle never much exceeded 1/4 of the way across the scale and rigidly stayed there regardless of engine activity. The fact that the needle has any motion when the car is stopped in gear or going under load makes me believe something is wrong--which it has been doing now for years. 2 years ago, I went out on an interstate on a hot day and the needle climbed right up to the red line. I made it home but have stayed away from those cirspoogestances since. All components seemingly check out as operable and I am left with the thought that the radiator is going out--but even there, the radiator appears to have a decent temperature change and has always been clean. Now the question: Back some 7 years ago we put new springs on the front end--one was broke at the end of a coil and you wouldn't have known it, by the way. Unfortunately, I think I was sold longer springs (say springs meant for a 5.0?) which raised the front end of the car maybe 2 inches. Could this impact air flow design to affect cooling anyone??? I can't imagine it would make any difference.
Change the sending unit if you have not done that.
Darren
Will check that out...thanks.