Where can i find the instructions at do it? Last time i got if off coolcats or something like that but i couldnt find it this time. Any help please?!?!
You need THIS (http://"http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=6&products_id=7") tool.
and LAME....
ive put in 26 hours of work and 7 miles of running on 6 hours of sleep in the last two days. maybe on different day a may laugh but not today thunder. not today
btw, what do you do in your spare time to find stuff like that?
I think of stuff like that after working on 11 machines for 8 hours straight, with 4 hour periods of sleep in between, also doing my share of raising 2 kids, and trying to keep things held together.
I've learned to see humor in places where it normally wouldn't be...in the end, we're all worm food. And I don't just laugh at others'...I too have a bunch of f*ckups that crack me up...albeit a day or so after the fact...
And I actually saw that a few months ago, filed it away in my mind for a good time to play it...nothing personal, and I knew you meant cylinder head. ;)
Did you find the info you seek?
Afraid I don't understand the subject line: "taking off my cylinder tomorrow"
leaves me thinking 2 things
1. Why are you wearing a cylinder?
2. If you take off your cylinder, what will you put on in it's place?
Maybe that's not what you meant, but that's what it made me think.
Well, he could be working on an air cooled engine of the German persuasion....but I think those are referred to as jugs. Jugs? Hmmm.
I need sleep. And jugs.
Night night folks :)
thank you, i stand corrected. cylinder head.
Bring you tools to the car and start unbolting things till it lifts off. Remove the timing belt and the tensioner. remove the bolts from the exhaust manifold and push it asides a slight bit. Remove the upper and lower intake and valve cover. Then the 10 head bolts and the turbo lines and heater hoses and upper hoses. Then pull the head OFF. Simple!!
So when i got my head off i looked at the exhaust valves and there is abunch of gunky oil that was seeping past my valve stem seals. So i found why i was burning oil so badly. Secondly, i am done using fred meyers gas!!!! my pistons and my cylinder heads are SOOOO gunked up. it was too dark tonight for a picture so i'll do that tomorrow. But wow. no more freddies gas ever!
(http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l196/quicksilver_024/061.jpg)
(http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l196/quicksilver_024/059-1.jpg)
(http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l196/quicksilver_024/057-1.jpg)
(http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l196/quicksilver_024/056-1.jpg)
(http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l196/quicksilver_024/053-1.jpg)
(http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l196/quicksilver_024/052-1.jpg)
(http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l196/quicksilver_024/051.jpg)
Leaking Valve stem seals and py Fred meyers gas :)
dawg what you cookin in there?
Actually the seals could have been changed with the head still on the car. And everyone knows cheap gas has no additives or should i say not enough as other fuels. That head is OIL FOULED!!
That's my thoughts as well Tom.
Yeah i know they could have been changed in the car for $450... yep and now i know that about the gas lol.`I just shipped it out to boport not that many days ago and heres what bo is doing do it. Grooved cam bearings, cam seal, Viton valve seals, Hardened exhaust seats, Valve guide, freeze plug and the stronger $69 valve springs
That is going to cost me around $700 including shipping. I figured i should spend $250 more and have a better more reliable head.
Or, you could've done it yourself for about 1/10 of that cost. Valve seals are pretty easy to do.
Seeing as it's all apart now and off at Bo's, it's a non-issue.
Stop running cheap gas in a boosted car.
I dont have any of the tools to do that. I also heard you need to fill the chamber up with air so the valve dont fall through and i dont have an air pump.
And now i know that. I learned
You can get fittings that thread into the spark plug holes, hook an air compressor (with an inline air dryer, best) to it, and voila...valves won't fall in. Used that setup several times over the years. Never had a problem. :)
I imagine you could make one pretty easily if you knew the thread count and pitch of your plugs...hope this helps for the next time.
I've used the "rope method" of holding the valves many times with much success. Just need a couple feet of about a 3/8" rope, and feed it into the plug hole while the piston is down, then bring it to TDC (or close to it). You don't need much rope in there, just enough to keep the valves from moving when you compress the springs to remove the keepers. Goes pretty quickly.
The "special" tools come in when you are compressing the valve springs. You either need to buy or make something for that. I have the old (hard to find) KD tool, but many guys have made something that works well enough.
Anyway, again it's a moot point since you sent the head off to Bo for him to do some extra work for you.
None of this stuff is rocket surgery, you just have to get in and do it.
WOW 450 to change stem seals on an assembled engine!!!! I have to raise my prices i guess. Normally on a 2.3 i get 200 Bucks that includes a gasket!!!!!
Yeah that was a ford quote i got. No way i was paying that much so i just took it off. There is also a oil leaking problem somewhere from the head as a well.