My '87 - 3.8 has a cooler line that decided to crack and start leaking near the front engine pulley.
I'm going to replace both lines, but the fittings going into the trans don't want to break loose. Is it okay to hit the fittings with some PB Blaster, and if so will it even help? I'm worried about leaning on the fittings too hard and having the threaded portion break off in the case.
I fixed a cut line with 3/8" flexible fuel hose, (I believe that was the diameter, check to make sure first), and a tiny hose clamp on either end. Has never leaked.
Both of my lines are coated in rust, and the leak appears to be a crack, so I'd like to just replace both of them. Is it possible (or a good idea) to change the fittings on the trans and radiator and run neoprene lines rather than hard lines?
You could replace the lines with rubber transmission line and fittings. Just make sure you use rubber transmission line as it's designed to not react with transmission fluid.
Or you could probably use these since you have an AOD:
http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/item/LRS-MUT1021SC/84-93-Mustang-Stainless-Automatic-Transmission-Cooler-Lines
Totally incorrect. Trans mission line has a higher burst pressure rating and it is designed for ATF. Two totally different animals. Never use fuel line for hydraulics. And most likely his lines are 5/16. Just saying!!
Too bad the kid at AutoZone didn't know the difference. I stopped in yesterday and asked specifically for 5/16" "transmission line". Get home, take the stuff out of the bag, and see "fuel" printed on the line. I should have checked it before I left, but my cranky grandkids thought otherwise.
I'm liking the LMR lines. I'm going to cut out the bad part to get it back on the road, and order the LMR part. Thanks for the link!
my 88 TC has quick disconnect fittings at the a4ld trans that are leaking, and they are discontinued from ford, any ideas?
my 88 TC has quick disconnect fittings at the a4ld trans that are leaking, and they are discontinued from ford, any ideas?
motormite/ dorman HELP line ..... at any autozone/advance/ oreilly ..etc
Part number 800-608 or 800-609
X2, I found some as a dorman part number for my 87-5.0 .
the dorman 800-608 are not the same as the ones on a 88 tc auto. the thread size is much larger on the oem fittings. however i took the o-ring and clip out of the new parts and installed them in the old fittings. it seemed to work.
the 800-609 fittings are not a quick disconnect, but accept a threaded line.
My trans cooler lines are leaking at the trans. fitting. Can not get it to stop leaking .What are my options ? I can get another fitting for the bottom line,but can I use rubber tranny hose and clamp to join it to the rest of the line?... Mark in KC
1988 Cougar/3.8 auto.
Worked for me. I had a similar situation a few years ago and cut the line in two to replace the fitting. I used trans line and two very tiny hose clamps to splice it back together, and I haven't had a problem in 3 years.
Nice to see another 88/3.8 member on here! :)
If you use tranny flex line the cut end of the hard line needs to be bubbled out. If not it can let the hose blow off and then you will smoke the tranny. You basically can do 2 things. Section a piece of the good line and install a fitting and flare it. Then run new hard lines from that point to the radiator. Or bubble flare the line and use FLEX. But i would remove the damaged line and install all new hard line. Copper Ferrous is what we use. An easy way to get the fittings out of the tranny is to break off the hard line close to the tranny fitting and use a DEEP socket to remove the flare nut, On fords it is very tight. If you are not wanting to do this remove the fitting from the tranny. Same way with a deep socket. But from experience it is sometimes a c to do that without a lift. Also if you use soft line with a bubble on the hard line do not use worm clamps they will eventually leak. Use old fashioned spring clamps and use no less than 3 on each connection. This is from experience and i have dun hundreds of them. Bottom line replacing the entire line with flex is not something i would do. Just saying.
You can use the Quick connect adapters ans braze on a bubble pipe and use flex from that point out. Or check the threads in the tranny and use an inverted flare adapter like the older units. Those snap connectors do leak. I have battled with them on GM cars for quite a while now. My T 6060 6 speeder has them and i converted them to inverted flare. I needed to do that to install the tranny cooler. It's been some time since i messed with a Ford Automatic. But if i am correct not 100% the snap connector can be replaced with an inverted flare adapter. Not 110% unless i see the threads. Chevy snap connectors are readily available at NAPA.
Most Fords are 5/16
:burnout:
Excellent post Tom. The only thing I would add is to make sure it's a 6 point socket.......less chance of rounding it off.....you only get one chance.
I had the trans cooler lines rust through and fail on my 88 TC. Trying to remake the lines in one piece and replace them with the motor installed in my garage was completely out of the realm of possibility. I had to cut them in pieces just to get them out. I went to NAPA and replaced all the lines with their rubber transmission lines and barbed fittings on the ends. Worked great. Just make sure you get hoses made for transmission fluids. If you are going to patch the existing, per Tom's recommendation, I would definitely bulb the line where you are going to splice it.
Thanks i thought that was a GIVEN. Forgot to say 6 Point. Thanks for correcting my post. Basically i really do not use to many 12 pointers. I have them but normally i use the 6 jobs. thanks Tom
A good set of grooved plies works well if your replacing the fittings too.
I like my irwin channel locks for stuff like that, and holding rounded off or rusted bolts, like you'd find on an exhaust bolt.