I was installing my Maximum Motorsports strut tower bar today when I ran into a problem. When I close the hood it doesn't close all the way. The bar sticks up a bit higher than the intake and hits the bottom of the hood. The hood will close but it sticks up in the front because it hits the upward "kink" in the middle of the bar. I'm stuck with the bar now as I had to cut a notch in the passenger side mount for it to clear the stock caster plate since it hit the front bolt on the passenger side. Is there any solution to the problem or am I going to have to fidget with the hood and or hood pad to get the thing to close right? As far as I know I'm the only person to install a Maximum Motorsports bar on a T-bird. Perhaps the Mustang hood is a bit higher in the middle than the T-bird hood?
5 lb hammer+hood=fixed?? don't mind me i am drunnk
And why not a 15lb hammer....you know, if your car is that unworthy, why not beat it down completely..?
Post photos but a sawzall and a spark machine does wonders!!
Doubt the OP would be willing to do that to his 'Bird ;) :shakeass:
I think Tom meant the strut tower brace...lol.
Yeah, doubt Lou would take 5 million to hack on that car!
Yeah I'm not hacking up the underside of the hood:hick:.
I emailed Maximum Motorsports to see what can be done. I've done some searching and Mark VII owners have run into the same problem due to a having a lower hood line than a Mustang. The only option I see working is to cut the "kink" out of the bar and have some flat stock welded over it. That might be the solution. If that wont work the other option is to:
A: Fill the holes I made inthe strut towers and
B. Buy a mustang to put the bar in.
I had a strut bar for awhile in mine, but I don't know what brand it was...something cheap, I'm sure.
Is your bar for a Fox or SN95? Or does it even matter?
I've got a Stang...might need a bar, should you decide to sell...
The bar I have is for an 87-93 Mustang with a SEFI 5.0. I may try playing with the hod to see if I can get it to fit. Perhaps it's an adjustment issue. I did get a reply from Maximum Motorsports and they noted that the bar for a 79-85 Mustang with a carb might work as the bar has less of a kink in it.
Sell the MM bar on craigslist and get a BBK. Mine fits like a glove. No cutting needed to clear my camber plates and it sits lower than my manifold. Probably cheaper too.
(http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/561772_10150978139833222_579388221_13524977_803652871_n.jpg)
Fixed the problem and boy was it easy. By removing a plastic hood insulation pin and carving a little hole in the hood insulation it fit like a glove. I had to remove one of the mounting holes on the passenger side mount to clear the stock strut mount but that took 3 minutes with a dremel. It stiffened the front noticeably even with the subframes. I like that it mounts to the firewall to cowl pinch welds for more strength than other strut bars.
One more.
Nice!
That looks great. I didnt have any insulation to worry about. It really does make a very noticeable difference. I noticed that my doors creek now after installing the brace though. You probably wont have that issue because you already have the subframe connectors.
Sweet. Now for some CHE's. or did you do that already
The subframes made the most noticeable difference in the feel of the car. It felt much more solid after they were welded in. The strut tower brace makes the car feel a little stiffer in the corners and what little cowl shake over big bumps that remained after the subframes were installed has disappeared.
Not yet. Building the 88 XR7 8.8 and getting torque box reinforcements so I can run slicks is next years project ;).
I want' CHE's bad. After seeing how much rear swing I've got, I hate taking turns now cause I can just see my control arms flexing and rolling in my head every time. eeeeeesh.
You can box in the stock control arms really cheap. I have CHE's on the Sport. I was about to box the stock control arms and luckily, found a brand new set of the CHE's on Ebay for $50.00.
Sway bar looks very nice. I had a MM carb bar I just sat on my car to eye it up. It looked like it would fit, but I wouldnt be able to get to the charing ports on the AC. If the car didnt have that I would say it would fit fine. Just a FYI.
The EFI strut bar I have hit the low pressure port on the A/C line. There is enough "give" in the metal line that I was able to push it back slightly by hand. It clears fine and the port can be reached. It's a good thing the line is a bit flexible.