Fox T-Bird/Cougar Forums

So even though I dont actually own my new house yet (May 31 can't get here fast enough) I'm already planning on building my Garage-Mahal. It will be 32 X 28 with 12'6" ceilings to accommodate a hoist. The bay doors will be 8' wide X 10' long. I've been doing some drawings to get an idea of what I'll need by way of materials. I've tried to detail the framing as accurately as possible (roof truss details aren't shown because that's up to the truss manufacturing company). I'm not a carpenter but I have some idea how to build a building, having built the family cottage almost entirely by myself. Just wanted to check and see if any architects or structural engineers are present and have any input. Here are my drawings so far (sorry for the small size, I had to reduce 'em to upload 'em):

Front elevation:

Left elevation:

Right elevation:

...and the rear elevation:

Here are some enlarged framing detail drawings:

Front:


Left:


Rear:

Right:

run the plywood sideways...it makes the walls stronger

roof too

like so....

here look though my photoshop folder of my garage addition
http://s233.photobucket.com/albums/ee79/daminc/our%20house/Garage%20addition/#!cpZZ2QQtppZZ28
(http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/ee79/daminc/our%20house/Garage%20addition/IMG_5899.jpg)

also put another wall plate under your walls... use treated lumber against the concrete

I'd run your peak the other direction.....that way snow won't pile up in front of your doors and you can always blow the back wall open and add on easier.

OK, will do. I knew the sideways plywood thing on the roof but didn't think about the walls. I also knew about the pressure treated bottom plate but didn't know about doubling it up. That's cheap enough to do...

I can't see your photobucket gallery, only that one photo. Did you build that addition on a slab or on footings with a frost wall? I know our local building code requires an engineered slab for anything over 600 square feet, and our code is likely similar to yours since we have similar climates...

I changed the link ... can you see it now?
It's an a slab with a 12x12 haunch footer around the perimeter.. all 1 pour

Where this is going to be built adding on to the back won't be an option, as it'll be the 6' minimum from the property line. It would be possible to add on to either side, though, should I ever see the need (even for something like a car port for winter storage of the Thundercat I don't even own yet). Snow shouldn't pile up, since I'll be using ashphalt shingles and snow generally doesn't slide off of them...

Jerry, when I click on the link I can only see that one photo. No option of scrolling through other photos

For my slab I'm going to have a contractor do it. Hopefully he'll do it to code (at least he will if he wants to be paid). I'll need at least 6" thickness for one side, to allow for the hoist

here is the link to the album.. it should show all the pics on it
http://s233.photobucket.com/albums/ee79/daminc/our%20house/Garage%20addition/ (http://"http://s233.photobucket.com/albums/ee79/daminc/our%20house/Garage%20addition/")

Also, Jerry, did you frame yours with 2X4 or 2X6? I think local code requires 2X6 for a 12' ceiling height, but I have to find out for sure. I drew my plans for 2X6 just in case, but 2X4 would be a lot cheaper, both for the studs and for the insulation (R20 is much more expensive than R12). I know 2X6 would be better for heat retention, but it'll only be heated for a few hours a year anyway, and with a wood stove...

snow only slides off metal roofing...

you probably need 2x6 for the height you need... and also use r-13 to insulate it

before you drywall... put some metal flashing or aluminum against the floor and nail it to the studs, so if you get a mouse, it can't eat through the drywall and live in the insulation

12" high should stop them

you could radiant foil wrap the building like I did.. keeps it cooler in summer, and warmer in winter

Very nice drawings, what program did you use?

When I built a similar garage, I went with 2 9'W doors.  The extra 1' may not sound like much but it's nice when you have to back in a truck or something wider than normal.

Might be more cosmetic appealing since you are going 10'H too.

I guessing it could be a special order door if it's not a common size.  It's been awhile since I've priced doors.

I used Microsoft paint, the same program I've used for drawing on the computer since 1990 or so. Probably the hard way to do it, but I'm used to the program. As for door's I'll likely go 9' wide. I just included 8' doors in those drawings because they were the only ones I could find prices for online while I was drawing them. The plans are in the infancy stage right now anyway - I don't even own the house until the end of May, so there's plenty of time to change things...