Fox T-Bird/Cougar Forums

Technical => Engine Tech => Topic started by: TheFoeYouKnow on April 04, 2012, 10:25:42 AM

Title: Need engine project advice.
Post by: TheFoeYouKnow on April 04, 2012, 10:25:42 AM
Later this summer I'm putting together an engine for my T-Bird, and I'm undecided on a few points, I'm wondering who can draw on their experience and lend a hand.
Parts I am decided on:
64cc GT40X heads
E303 cam
Explorer upper w/internal EGR
Requisite MAF conversion
1 5/8 unequal length shorties
2 1/2 H-pipe (mine is 2")
2 1/2 cat-back

Undecided:
Short block -rebuild my HO, or get a late model 351 and rebuild it instead
Lower intake -pretty much goes with the short block choice, Explorer lower or Lightning lower
Timing set -stock or something else
Oiling -do I want a high volume/pressure pump?

Any good input is appreciated, I've built all manner of other engines, but never a Windsor motor.  I'm making my estimate at 300 HP in the HO or 340-345 HP with the 351.
Title: Need engine project advice.
Post by: 86T-bird on April 04, 2012, 11:24:53 AM
My recommendations:

Std oil pump.  SBF's don't have oiling issues
Dble roller timing set
refresh the short block if it's an HO.

The top end parts you've selected are good 302 upgrades.  The greater airflow potential of a larger engine will suffer with those parts, plus the Windsor entails some additional expense and complication.  A tired but true axom: 302 parts make 302 power.

My suggestion:  Build the small motor with what you've selected and plan for the next one with larger displacement and a top end to match (In my experience, there always seems to be a "next engine"!).

Good luck with your project!
Title: Need engine project advice.
Post by: Shadow on April 04, 2012, 12:46:49 PM
i agree with the post above.. i would invest in new pistons, though.. if i remember right, E7's have 62cc chambers? not sure on that, but bumping to a 64cc head will decrease compression.. it would probably put you under 9:1, if the motor isn't already below that already.. i would shoot for 9.5-ish:1 compression, as you can still run pump gas and it's still street friendly, with an extra bit of kick in the pants

also, stay away from HV pumps, they're really only meant for deeper sump pans (IE: 7 quart).. running an HV pump with a standard pan, brings on the potential of running the pan dry, before the returning oil has a chance to reach the pickup tube.. that's not always the case, but it does happen sometimes

and i would stay away from the FRPP letter cams, they're not that great.. as you will see, a lot of guys here are running trick flow, comp, crane or custom grind cams

and as for the timing chain, definitely a performance brand double roller.. stock chains stretch entirely too easily when extra power is gained.. i often run cloyes timing sets, they never let me down.. a bit pricey, but well worth it's rigidity
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CLO-9-3535X9/
Title: Need engine project advice.
Post by: Beau on April 04, 2012, 01:12:08 PM
I may get some flack for this, but the only thing the alphabet cams are good for is nerds posting idle/rev vids on youtube.

As Shadow said, the hot cams seems to be the TFS Stage 1, and lately, on race forums, I've read a lot of of guys are running crane and comp cams too.

5.0 or 351w, that's a choice you and only you can make....the only difference is of course, the lower intake, and you'll need a Fox swap pan and matching pickup, and keep in mind you can NOT use a 5.0 H pipe. Everything else is the same...myself, I'd probably go with the Windsor block. The difference in parts and their prices is worth the added power (potential) over a 5.0, IMO.
Title: Need engine project advice.
Post by: Shadow on April 04, 2012, 01:18:24 PM
Quote from: ThunderbirdSport302;386008
I may get some flack for this, but the only thing the alphabet cams are good for is nerds posting idle/rev vids on youtube.

:laughing: i have to agree
Title: Need engine project advice.
Post by: Soul on April 04, 2012, 01:33:06 PM
I'd go with a set of roller gears, I picked some up off ebay for like 50 bucks. The xe high energy cams are good choice. I'd build the 351 if your going to run it for awhile.
Title: Need engine project advice.
Post by: Shadow on April 04, 2012, 01:52:52 PM
you mean the timing gears? they're really a waste of money.. they're not recommended for injected motors, either
Title: Need engine project advice.
Post by: Soul on April 04, 2012, 02:00:47 PM
I got mine cheaper than a double roller chain, working fine on my 90 mustang sourced motor.

PS why are they supposed to be bad for injected motors? Don't see how fuel going in differently affects that one way or another.
Title: Need engine project advice.
Post by: Shadow on April 04, 2012, 02:03:34 PM
they send bad harmonics through the cam that a chain absorbs.. they also trigger knock sensors (obviously, only if the motor has 1 lol)
Title: Need engine project advice.
Post by: Soul on April 04, 2012, 02:13:03 PM
First I've heard of it. Btw headers are a pain. Not saying don't do it, just saying omg pain... Not sure how a 351 with headers in one of our cars will fit, but my 302 with headers just about touches everything.
Title: Need engine project advice.
Post by: Shadow on April 04, 2012, 02:16:39 PM
do a google search, it comes up a lot lol
Title: Need engine project advice.
Post by: 86T-bird on April 04, 2012, 02:19:52 PM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XeOn5FjsYAI

A discussion on few commonly used camshafts.  A caution though, the video carries a *child warning*. 

The OP gave a list of what he's chosen. 

I've witnessed cam discussions often get all out of wack on most boards.  Don't wish to see that here. 

Some things I keep in mind on these discussions: 

The majority of engines discussed on this forum are mild streeters topped with GT-40 or comparable intakes and relatively small exhaust (often 1 5/8 shorties). 

This results in peak power in the 5,200-5,600 max range.  The long runner intakes are the primary limiting factor.

The difference between the stock HO cam w/1.7 rockers and the other's mentioned seldom offer a great difference in power, but will have different idle and drivability characteristics (some good, some not). 

The operating range and airflow of these type of combinations just doesn't demand significant cam timing.

As far as picking one over the other?  They'll all run!
Title: Need engine project advice.
Post by: thunderjet302 on April 04, 2012, 03:38:34 PM
If you're dead set on GT40X heads I would go for the 58cc heads as long as you're not going to run a blower. You'll get a slight bump in compression and make a bit more power over the 64cc heads. Really though for not that much more money (~$200) you could get a set of Edelbrock Performer (EGR compatable versions of the Performer RPM) or Trick Flow Twisted Wedge heads. Both of those heads will make more power than the GT40X heads and curb stomp the GT40X heads in a drag race. I was going to get a set of GT40X heads to replace the GT40Ps I'm running but ended up going with a set of Edelbrock Performer heads, which I still have to put on the car:D.
Title: Need engine project advice.
Post by: Chrome on April 04, 2012, 09:28:12 PM
Quote from: ThunderbirdSport302;386008
I may get some flack for this, but the only thing the alphabet cams are good for is nerds posting idle/rev vids on youtube.

As Shadow said, the hot cams seems to be the TFS Stage 1, and lately, on race forums, I've read a lot of of guys are running crane and comp cams too.

5.0 or 351w, that's a choice you and only you can make....the only difference is of course, the lower intake, and you'll need a Fox swap pan and matching pickup, and keep in mind you can NOT use a 5.0 H pipe. Everything else is the same...myself, I'd probably go with the Windsor block. The difference in parts and their prices is worth the added power (potential) over a 5.0, IMO.
I have heard the alphabet cams are not good. Their profile looks good to me, but I would not run one because I have not heard anything good about them. I also agree about the 351w. 5.0 is good enough for me, but if you have the cash to spend on a major build, 5.8 would be worth it.
Title: Need engine project advice.
Post by: TheFoeYouKnow on April 05, 2012, 01:07:28 AM
Thanks guys, I'm loving all the advice, as a point of clarification, I'm sticking with the 64cc GT40X.  I'm getting them brand new and assembled from my parts dept for $500 (for the pair), which means the price is right.  They will be going for some milling, and I'll be porting them a bit.  However, based on the nearly unanimous ire for letter cams, I've decided to run a TFS stage 1 221/225.  I hope you'll forgive me for being a bit naive. I, working in a Ford service department, tend to look close to home for parts.  Also, I believe the solution for the header problem, should I build a 351, would be these http://www.summitracing.com/parts/BBK-1511/ (http://"http://www.summitracing.com/parts/BBK-1511/") If anybody has used them, I'd like to know what you think.
Title: Need engine project advice.
Post by: thewestie on April 05, 2012, 05:55:38 PM
I used them and there x pipe for a 5.0 stang
Title: Need engine project advice.
Post by: thunderjet302 on April 05, 2012, 08:26:34 PM
Yeah I'd run the GT40X heads if you're getting them for $500 a pair ;).
Title: Need engine project advice.
Post by: TheFoeYouKnow on April 06, 2012, 07:19:01 AM
Quote from: thewestie;386117
I used them and there x pipe for a 5.0 stang
Did they work well?
Title: Need engine project advice.
Post by: TheFoeYouKnow on April 06, 2012, 09:49:59 AM
Update, the heads aren't GT40X, they're GT40 M-6049-Y303's and according to the spec sheets of both, the Y303's out flow the X heads by a small amount on intake, but by like 10 percent on the exhaust.
Title: Need engine project advice.
Post by: thunderjet302 on April 06, 2012, 10:27:56 AM
The GT40 Y303's are ok heads. Not quite as good as the GT40X but for $500 they're a deal :).
Title: Need engine project advice.
Post by: Bob on April 06, 2012, 11:16:58 AM
I'd go for used edelbrock or trickflow alum heads for ~$700-$800, used cobra intake, 65mm tb, 24# injectors, and a tfs-1 cam.  I had this combo in my old tbird with a t-5 and 355's and it ran great.
Title: Need engine project advice.
Post by: thunderjet302 on April 06, 2012, 03:00:28 PM
Quote from: Bob;386172
I'd go for used edelbrock or trickflow alum heads for ~$700-$800, used cobra intake, 65mm tb, 24# injectors, and a tfs-1 cam.  I had this combo in my old tbird with a t-5 and 355's and it ran great.

 
I'll have this same combo (Edelbrock heads, GT40 intake, 65mm TB, 24lb injectors) with a Comp cam and 3.73s soon. The heads will be the only difference from the curent combo as I have all of the stuff except with GT40Ps. I should get a noticeable improvement with the Edlebrock heads over the GT40Ps.

If you can swing it skip the aluminum GT40Ys and go with a set of Edelbrocks or Trick Flows.
Title: Need engine project advice.
Post by: thewestie on April 06, 2012, 05:14:17 PM
Quote from: TheFoeYouKnow;386156
Did they work well?

 
The headers have enough clearance to work on in the car and matched up to the x pipe perfectly. I installed the motor with them on and have had them off in the car.
Title: Need engine project advice.
Post by: Aerocoupe on April 07, 2012, 09:05:07 AM
GT40Y's +$200-$300 dollars in porting will outflow box stock Eddy Performers if the porter knows what they are doing.  Been there seen it.

Here is my current combo is it is putting down 318 rwhp:

Motor
Edelbrock Performer RPM 2.02 heads box stock
Comp Cams double roller timing chain
Comp Cams camshaft P/N 35-518-8
Crane 1:6 full roller rockers
DSS Super Pro flat top pistons
Crower Sportsman rods
Stock crank
Stock block 0.030" over

Induction
Edelbrock Performer RPM II upper and lower
BBK 70mm throttle body
2001 Mustang GT mass air meter (80mm)
BBK inner fender cold air kit

Exhaust
BBK 1-5/8" equal length shorties
BBK 2-1/2" off road X-pipe
Flow master lers
Dynomax 2-1/2" tail pipes

Fuel System
42 lb/hr injectors
stock fuel rails & fuel lines
Aeromotive fuel pressure regulator
Walbro 255 lphr intanke fuel pump

The motor is about 10:1 and I run it on 93 octane.  The EEC is an A9L that has a SCT switch chip.  The car was dyno tuned and produced 318 rwhp and 332 ft-lbs of torque.  The dyno graph is not a peaker either.  It comes on like a freight train at 2,500 and pulls to the chip at 6,000.  The power under the curve is fat all the way across this range.  Don't look for a dyno graph that looks like a mountain as the area under the curve is where races are won and lost.

The biggest thing I can tell you is call Comp Cams and have them spec a camshaft and make sure your engine builder knows how it needs to be installed.

Darren
Title: Need engine project advice.
Post by: Haystack on April 07, 2012, 04:05:25 PM
There isn't much differance between the tf1 and e cam. There basically copies of each other. Most of the time a stock h.o. cam is faster, even though it doesn't dyno as high. I would run the largest exhaust I could swing, and I would try for a carb style intake if your comfortable with drilling and tapping efi stuff onto it. The boss's are alrwady there.

Do a double roller timing chan. The "gears" are a waste of time. They wear out faster, make noise and lose power over a chain.
Title: Need engine project advice.
Post by: Aerocoupe on April 07, 2012, 06:02:15 PM
I forgot to mention that if you stay with a Cobra style upper and lower I would highly suggest that you send the lower to get ported and port matched to the heads you are going to use.  I did this with the old motor before the one I detailed above.  It only gained about 10 peak hp but the area under the curve fattened up and the torque was definitely noticeable.  The guy that did mine is Tom Moss and it was $100 plus shipping.  His site it here:

http://tmossporting.0catch.com/

Darren
Title: Need engine project advice.
Post by: thunderjet302 on April 07, 2012, 06:31:10 PM
Quote from: Aerocoupe;386233
GT40Y's +$200-$300 dollars in porting will outflow box stock Eddy Performers if the porter knows what they are doing.  Been there seen it.

Here is my current combo is it is putting down 318 rwhp:

Motor
Edelbrock Performer RPM 2.02 heads box stock
Comp Cams double roller timing chain
Comp Cams camshaft P/N 35-518-8
Crane 1:6 full roller rockers
DSS Super Pro flat top pistons
Crower Sportsman rods
Stock crank
Stock block 0.030" over

Induction
Edelbrock Performer RPM II upper and lower
BBK 70mm throttle body
2001 Mustang GT mass air meter (80mm)
BBK inner fender cold air kit

Exhaust
BBK 1-5/8" equal length shorties
BBK 2-1/2" off road X-pipe
Flow master lers
Dynomax 2-1/2" tail pipes

Fuel System
42 lb/hr injectors
stock fuel rails & fuel lines
Aeromotive fuel pressure regulator
Walbro 255 lphr intanke fuel pump

The motor is about 10:1 and I run it on 93 octane.  The EEC is an A9L that has a SCT switch chip.  The car was dyno tuned and produced 318 rwhp and 332 ft-lbs of torque.  The dyno graph is not a peaker either.  It comes on like a freight train at 2,500 and pulls to the chip at 6,000.  The power under the curve is fat all the way across this range.  Don't look for a dyno graph that looks like a mountain as the area under the curve is where races are won and lost.

The biggest thing I can tell you is call Comp Cams and have them spec a camshaft and make sure your engine builder knows how it needs to be installed.

Darren

Hmm your cam has about 15* more duration on the intake and exhaust than the Comp cam I'm running. I'm going to keep the 24lb injectors on my engine when I swap the Edelbrock Performers on. I was wondering why you went with 42lb injectors when the 24lb injectors should be enough? Nitrous?
Title: Need engine project advice.
Post by: TheFoeYouKnow on April 08, 2012, 08:41:24 AM
I had planned to do port matching throughout the inlet/outlet tract, as well as some slightly more ambitious porting in the heads. The Y heads feature smaller ports than the X heads, but I talked to a place that's local for me, and they reckon, that i should be able to get to 185cc and 75cc on the intake and exhaust ports, respectively. I've been getting a lot of recommendations to have the exhaust valves enlarged to 1.6" as 302's are crazy about more exhaust (hence the tfs s1 cam with higher lift and longer duration on exhaust) I was planning to mill also, but considering I'm making a piston change, some have recommended against it.  Like thunderjet, I've got some 24# injectors that I'll be using unless I install them and have problems leaning out.  But for me, with this, less is more.  I'm looking for OE like driveability, 340 to 375HP at around 5 or 5.5k. And where possible I like the idea of running the parts I get a discount on.  But I think I've decided on a 306.  The 357 had a definite torque advantage, but with the 306, I should be getting at least 300lb-ft anywhere my torque converter will take me, and on up to the 375 -395 range.
Title: Need engine project advice.
Post by: Aerocoupe on April 09, 2012, 03:21:42 PM
Thunderjet302,
The 24 lb/hr injectors are good to about 300 flywheel hp.  When you get up to that hp range they are being driven at 100% of their duty cycle so the bottom end drops out and they dribble on idle which causes all kinds of issues with surging at the lower rpm's where you want the car to idle.  I use the calculator on this site to size injectors:

http://www.witchhunter.com/injectorcalc1.php4

I used the 42 lb/hr injectors as my tuner could work with them with the smaller 306 and the cars runs so much better with them over the 24 lb/hr injectors.  My motor making 318 hp at the rear wheels is closer to 365 flywheel hp.

TheFoeYouKnow,
Are you talking flywheel or rear wheel hp?  If you are talking rwhp then I can almost guarantee that a 302/306 cubic inch motor with the cam you are wanting to use, the heads (ported or not), a small exhaust, etc you will not see 340 to 370 hp and the 375-395 ft-lbs of torque in the 5,000 to 5,500 rpm range.  You have to spin it up to 6,500+ rpms, run a solid roller cam, and get a big exhaust so that that little motor will make better power naturally aspirated.  There is all kinds of internet lore about someone making huge power with a 302 with stock configured heads, hydraulic roller cam, a small exhaust, and in the 5,00 to 5,500 rpm band but its with power adders.

I am not trying to be a kill joy here but its just what I seen over the years.  Another alternative is to cruise Craig's list, local papers, forums, etc and you can find 331 short blocks or the 331 kits for dirt cheap right now.  The additional cubic inches will help the torque immensely which will up the hp numbers as well.

Darren
Title: Need engine project advice.
Post by: thunderjet302 on April 09, 2012, 04:14:00 PM
Quote from: Aerocoupe;386399
Thunderjet302,
The 24 lb/hr injectors are good to about 300 flywheel hp.  When you get up to that hp range they are being driven at 100% of their duty cycle so the bottom end drops out and they dribble on idle which causes all kinds of issues with surging at the lower rpm's where you want the car to idle.  I use the calculator on this site to size injectors:

http://www.witchhunter.com/injectorcalc1.php4

I used the 42 lb/hr injectors as my tuner could work with them with the smaller 306 and the cars runs so much better with them over the 24 lb/hr injectors.  My motor making 318 hp at the rear wheels is closer to 365 flywheel hp.



Ah. I'm going by the Ford Racing calculator which says I should be ok with 24lb injectors, given that I have a smaller cam and the 1.90 valve performers. If they don't work out I can always step up to bigger injectors as they are stupid easy to swap in. I figure the car might make 320hp at the flywheel if I'm lucky.
Title: Need engine project advice.
Post by: TheFoeYouKnow on April 09, 2012, 04:26:00 PM
Aerocoupe, while I'm not sure I'll get there with 24#'s, I'm using it as a starting point.  It's almost nothing to swap out 36# or 42# injectors later (although it's almost a ludicrous statement to say that I'd need that much fuel). As for my target, I'm talking flywheel HP and the exhaust isn't that small. 1 5/8 headers in front of 2 1/2 duals isn't small, and I don't buy into the idea that I need solid lifters or that I can't get there below 6000 rpm.  So I'll tell you what, I'll build it, take a picture, and scan my RWHP dyno sheet, and post my drivetrain loss correction calculation.  #challengeaccepted
Title: Need engine project advice.
Post by: Haystack on April 09, 2012, 04:43:27 PM
There is nothing wrong with having the capability of having too much fuel. There is a lot wrong with not having enough. Unless I was doing a 100% setup, I would go overkill one the sizing as well. If your buying new, the price isn't really even any different.

Ihwould also run larger exhaust, but that's just me I guess.
Title: Need engine project advice.
Post by: Aerocoupe on April 10, 2012, 11:35:16 AM
Okay, now we are getting somewhere if you are talking flywheel hp.  You can do that under 6,000 rpm and with a 302 motor.  I am basing that statement on the one that sits in my garage that I drive on occasion. 

All I was saying is to get 375-395 rwhp it would be difficult with a NA 302 motor.  Typically small motors don't make a ton of power naturally aspirated down low in the RPM's without a power adder.  Small motors need to breath to get them in the higher RPM's to make power.  This typically takes a lot of induction and a large (read 3"+) exhaust which typically means a solid roller cam.  Then the issue is there is no power off idle.

The only thing I would highly suggest is that you consider at least a 36 lb/hr injector.  If you get the 24 lb/hr units and decide to go larger then you have to either buy a new MAF calibrated to the larger injectors or change the electronics in the MAF, or have the car dyno'd again.  I would also run a 255 lph pump but a 190 lph would suffice.  The beauty of the injection is that is will only burn what it needs if properly tuned and the rest of the fuel will just return to the tank.

I had the 24 lb/hr units in my car and washiznitting the wall at 289 rwhp.  Changed to the 42 lb/hr units (buddy had a set and was cleaning out his garage so I got them for a good deal) and the car went to 318 rwhp afer I paid $125 to get the chip reprogrammed and dyno time.  It was well worth it as the idle surge was gone and it was so much smoother through the RPM's.  The 24's were just maxed out and could not provide enough fuel.

Anyhow, good luck with the project!  Sounds like you have a solid start on it.

Darren
Title: Need engine project advice.
Post by: TheFoeYouKnow on April 19, 2012, 11:32:47 PM
Update, Cirspoogestances unforeseen have caused me to revise.  I picked up a 120k 96 GT40 (non P headed) motor from an Explorer. I'll get to the other mods when I can, but I've got to keep it drive-able for now, so I'm going to swap in the HO cam from my old engine, and run it for now.  It's kind of funny how a loose motor can go from 'ok for now' to scary so fast.  I'm hoping to open the exhaust up in a month or so, but for now, that's all I have to work with.  I had to have a motor shipped in from across the state, the guy at the yard tells me, "the 96 and 97 motors go out about as fast as they come in" and "the Mustang guys grab them up like they were free candy". Figures.
Title: Need engine project advice.
Post by: V8Demon on April 20, 2012, 01:04:48 AM
Quote from: Haystack;386255
There isn't much differance between the tf1 and e cam. There basically copies of each other.

 
Not really.....


E-cam
cam lift.311 int exh .311
valve lift .498 int exh .498
max lift intake 110* exhaust 110*
valve setting. .000 intake exhaust .000

cam timing @.004 tappet lift
intake opens 28* btdc closes at 74* abdc duration is 282
exhaust opens 68*bbdc closes 34* atdc duration 282

cam timing @.050 tappet lift
intake opens at 0* btdc closes 40*abdc duration 220
exhaust opens 40* bbdc closes 0* atdc duration 220


TFS stage 1
Valve Setting Intake: .000 in.
Valve Setting Exhaust: .000 in.
Advertised Duration (Degrees): 275 intake/279 exhaust
Duration at .050 in. Lift (Degrees): 221 intake/225 exhaust
Camshaft Lift: .312 in. intake/.319 in. exhaust
Valve Lift with 1.6 Rocker Arms: .499 in. intake/.510 in. exhaust
Lobe Separation (Degrees): 112
Intake Cam Timing at .050 in. Valve Lift:
Opens 3 degrees BTDC
Closes 38 degrees ABDC
Max lift: 108 degrees ATDC
Exhaust Cam Timing at .050 in. Valve Lift:
Opens 49 degrees BBDC
Closes 4 degrees BTDC
Max lift: 116 degrees BTDC


FWIW  the TFS cam more closely mirrors the b cam than the e, albeit with a little more lift and a more aggresive ramp rate.  The TFS has more dwell over the nose as well.
The reason guys run slower as opposed with the stock cam is two fold.

1. not enough gear.
2. not enough converter.

I assume you're going to run the AOD.  I would recommend a 2600 RPM stall at the least.  A 3K will do you nicely.  The bigger the cooler the better.  Find one from a company called Long.  They make the coolers for B&M.  They're cheaper too.
Title: Need engine project advice.
Post by: thunderjet302 on April 20, 2012, 08:45:41 AM
My car has a smaller cam and I'm still running 3.73 gears and a 2800 stall converter. It pulls hard out of the hole. With a 302 in a heavy car you need gear and a converter to get it up and going.
Title: Need engine project advice.
Post by: TheFoeYouKnow on April 20, 2012, 08:53:20 AM
That's really not what I'm after.  If I ever take my car to the strip, it only going to be as a means of validation.  This is a street car, if I ever get it involved in any kind of racing, it will be autocross.
Title: Need engine project advice.
Post by: TheFoeYouKnow on April 24, 2012, 06:24:32 PM
WOW, what a fight! Just finished today, Tear down on GT40 Explorer engine, swap a 90 Stock HO cam, FRPP oil pump, new oil pan, new double roller set (would you believe the GT40 motor had a regular chain?), build up and install. Whew!  Then I got to pull the front cover, chase a pump shaft, put it back together, fight with a thermostat that slipped down during the build (causing a leak), then when things looked good, I had all the older techs in the shop help me track down a low vac/rich mix problem that ended up being a wrong EGR plate gasket (I used a 96 motor to keep internal EGR). All said and done; 4 days, 1100 bucks including the core (which I may not cash in) and a dump truck full of frustration.  Goes like stink, though, and most importantly, keeps oil pressure at 55-60 psi all the time, AND I don't smell burnt coolant in the exhaust, OR hear any knocking or tapping!
Title: Need engine project advice.
Post by: Shadow on April 24, 2012, 06:51:07 PM
geez motor torn down, built, dropped in and running in 4 days? you really fought a quick battle with that 1!
Title: Need engine project advice.
Post by: TheFoeYouKnow on April 24, 2012, 06:55:43 PM
4 days of lunch hours and late nights (2 hours between 5 and 7).  Probably 12 or 14 hours total.
Title: Need engine project advice.
Post by: 86T-bird on April 25, 2012, 11:36:55 AM
Good to hear it's on the road!

"a dump truck of frustration"  That's a great way to put it!  Can't remember a project I've done without a least one dump truck full.

Pretty quick work, in comparison to many on the site (me included...).
Title: Need engine project advice.
Post by: TheFoeYouKnow on April 25, 2012, 12:26:16 PM
It helps to work in a Ford shop, with other Ford techs, who have nothing better to do than help, and also to have a parts account. I'm pretty fortunate that way.  Now I've got the same high idle problem as the guy in that other thread.
Title: Need engine project advice.
Post by: Soul on April 25, 2012, 12:38:25 PM
Dang you were booking it for a 4 day swap and doing all the work to the motor.

*golf clap*

Now go get a beer.
Title: Need engine project advice.
Post by: TheFoeYouKnow on April 25, 2012, 12:51:46 PM
Lets see, the engine showed up Thursday, I stripped it to the long block and pulled the cam, Friday I pulled out my HO and stripped it down to the long block and pulled it's cam (which was wiped at the journals). Lucky for me I know a guy that had a 90 HO cam and who just gave it to me, Saturday I worked the whole day, about 8 hours,  to install the cam and assemble the motor and get it in the car, and I spent 4 or 5 hours Monday relocating the ACT to the airbox and trouble shooting no oil pressure (pump shaft had fallen out while I was building it up, which was a careless mistake) and rough running, which happened to be a too small EGR plate gasket not sealing EGR out of the engine.  I won my first street light drag with it last night against a turbo eclipse, so I'm pretty happy.  Next: Exhaust, heads to bumper.  This stock exhaust business is killing me, well not completely stock, but all stock parts as I have a Mark VII H-pipe.  Also, I think I'm going to mod the Explorer TB to run in place of the HO one.  By comparison it's huge.
Title: Need engine project advice.
Post by: thunderjet302 on April 26, 2012, 01:44:09 PM
The Explorer TB is 65mm the HO one is 60mm. I'd run it :).
Title: Need engine project advice.
Post by: Adrien on May 18, 2012, 01:30:50 AM
Need some Help I have a 85 Cougar LS with a 3.8 V6 how can I get more HP im think about put a whole new engine in it I want a V8 I know a 302 will fit will a 308 or a 351 fit and about how much will all this up grade cost???
Title: Need engine project advice.
Post by: Adrien on May 18, 2012, 01:33:05 AM
Wow thats real nice! Thunderjet302
Title: Need engine project advice.
Post by: Aerocoupe on May 18, 2012, 02:12:07 PM
Adrien,

Don't take this the wrong way but you are pretty much hijacking the thread and its bad manners.  Use the search function and absorb what has already been discussed 100 times.  If you absolutely cannot find what you need there then start a new thread and I am sure you will get all the advise you will need.

This goes for your other post in SR71Blackbird's thread as well.

Darren
Title: Need engine project advice.
Post by: V8Demon on May 18, 2012, 05:54:34 PM
Quote
"a dump truck of frustration"

Oh my goodness, that describes my cursed car to a tee.