I'll be pulling the motor out of my friends turbo coupe. I am wondering what i need. I know i need a hoist and engine stand but is there anything else. A post on craigslist had a hoist and a "Come along". I am not sure what a "Come along" is. do i need it?
Tools. You'll need tools.otherwise, postpone the work until you get tools.
I never used a come a long pulling an engine. i DO put two space saver spares on the front and raise the rear of the car for a better angle of attack once everything is unbolted and ready to pull.
a leveler comes in handy when pulling motor and trans.. my guess is, they were using the come-along to act as a ghetto leveler.. HD ratchet straps do the job quite nicely, too
I used a come along last time I put the HO in the Sport...busted the dist. cap and the rotor. Next time I'll try it the way Vinnie says.
With the rear raised and the tiny tires up front, the engine just came right out
my biggest pet peive with these cars is the fact that the upper rad support is welded to the car.. this is something i hope to change to make life easier lol
I've also thought of that. If the upper core support was detachable, the engine would literally slide right out (with a slight lift and removal of the header panel). We cut the core like that on a parts car and it made engine removal a breeze.
time to attack my car with the sawzall!! AGAIN!
Don't forget, on our cars, it's basically a structural element..
You'll need long bolts to go through the engine stand mounting points to the block. The bell housing bolts are no where near long enough. Sandwich bags are great for putting nuts and bolts in. Label them with a sharpie too. I pulled the engine out of my parts car a few weeks ago, so those are the biggest thing that comes to mind.
I laid a plastic sheet under the car, then absorbent pads on that. No fluids on the concrete at all.
More of your half ass repairs eh...
I dropped the 5.0 and AOD in as a unit in my TC no issues, it'll come out the same way...
same as durangos, but they're bolted in securely enough.. i'm not going to attempt it without some serious thought, planning and a little added reassureance.. don't want to watch the lower support fold in half after i cut the top off LOL
wah wah wah is all i hear.. get off my nuts
Make or buy a motor plate makes pulling and installing much easier.
oh.. most importantly.. keep bandaides handy! or some clean paper towels and electrical tape lol someone's bound to bust a knuckle
Dont make a federal case out of pulling an engine. Especially a TC one. It is a piece of cake. And just me i would not cut the radiator support . That is a Hack job and totally not necessary. I would highly doubt Vinnie would do it that way. He would loose a months worth of sleep just trying to polish the cut marks out and trying to hide them HA HA HA!!! Just making a joke Vinnie
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c209/tfalconier/DSCF0098.jpg)
it's funny how everyone knows vinnie's super attention to detail lol i wouldn't do it to my white car.. my black car on the other hand, certainly.. the whole front clip (firewall forward) is getting cut off anyway, so it's no loss what-so-ever, if it buckles or tweeks
hahahahahah what a smartass :giggle:
Difference is...the Dudge has something called a full frame...that which our beloved FoxCatBird cars are in a definite lack thereof....my Ford truck (and the Chevy truck,AND the Caprice, for that matter) have/had removable radiator/core support. Of course, they also have full frames, and still, I wouldn't drive any of them with said core support not bolted...cutting a Tbird in that area, and definitely using it for a driving vehicle afterwards...probably not a good idea lol
Sport your answer is correct and if you use a frame machine as often as i do you find this out quite fast. Monolithic design is a system that relies on every attachment and angle to be consistent. That is how it works. When designed with a full frame and chassis a vehicle is very forgiving. With it's absence one must be extremely careful with a SAWZALL OR FLAME WRENCH!!
It will amaze you how each and every rail and or attachment is extremely important to be functioning. You are 100% on you post. Thank You
that's why it would have to be reinforced first.. when i start cutting the front clip off my black car, i'm going to put a plate on each side and weld in a crossbar (that will sit in front of the rad), say.. about 10-14" up from the lower.. or maybe even an X .. i'm basically just curious to see how it'd turn out.. the front clip is getting cut up to repair the white car, so i don't care what happens to it in the end lol it'll be a full tube chassis trailer queen
i'd loosen all the bellhousing bolts, drop the starter, motor mount bolts, and various wiring and hoses. loop a long rachet strap around the bottom of the bellhousing up to both ears on the firewall up by the cowl and pull the motor forward enough to get the mainshaft out of the clutch and take the motor straight up and out.