I am in the process of tearing apart the frontend of my 88 XR-7 and noticed my 2 year old TRW outer tierods are rustier than anything else on the car!
I googled to see if this is common with new parts nowadays and have seen where even Moog stuff is even rusting prematurely.
I know the stuff that Ford installed is preserved with something I would have assumed TRW and Moog would have at least done the same thing, apparantly not.
I guess my question is what can be done to new parts such as ball joints, inner and outer tierods, control arms, brake calipers, etc to keep them from rusting? I would like to keep the natural color of the parts, can a clear acrylic enamel spray paint work? For the calipers should it be a high temperature clearcoat?
Would I just need to wipe down with acetone to prep for paint?
Thank you!
Tim
Paint the parts that is what i do!!
Here is a set of my C5 Z06 brakes i am installing. Blasted and painted with PPG waterborn and baked.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c209/tfalconier/257f89af.jpg)
Por 15 works great for stuff like that, but I don't think you can get it in clear. Toms way is good, but a little time consuming for small parts like ball joints an ends if there already on the car.
Don't let Vinnie see that, That looks like it would belong on his ride.
:rollin::cool:
Tom, how is that applied? Is it something you have to mix, or does it come ready to use?
I'm going to start tearing mine apart soon and paint every piece that can be unbolted...and most that can't. Looking for something that's fairly easy to use, and durable..lol
Painting is the way to go.... aren't the ford front end parts black to start with anyway
I was thinking of painting the new ones, I have some black "chassis saver" could that be brushed on then maybe spray with clear acrylic enamel?
I use the duplicolor wheel clear coat to preserve that new part look without changing the color. Its very durable.
i do believe the OEM ford parts were black, but i can't be held to that statement as 99% of mine are always covered in gunk of some sort.. i'd use VHT 'engine enamel' clear , as it's usually more durable than duplicolor engine paint/clear.. you could also use clear that's meant for calipers, as it's meant to hold up to some heat, too
Will engine enamel or caliper enamel cure without the heat? I have read some people will bake engine parts or components to cure the ceramic in the paint. I will not be installing them rightaway after painting so will this be enough to cure the paint? I painted my 11" rotor spindles with black engine paint a year or so ago and am still waiting to install them, so this question can apply to those also.
JR painted it and all the other front end parts. For the A Frames we bead blast them and use POR 15. But that Caliper is PPG WATERBORN engine bright. JR says it wont peal or discolor.
I am trying to OUT DO VINNY. I dont think i can.
Here is a lower control arm shot with POR15
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c209/tfalconier/0f29fbaf.jpg)
Most of everything under my car has been painted with black zero-rust.
It has a nice satin finish. My entire engine bay has a coat of that under the black urethane finish coat
how well does it spray? i've only ever brushed it on, but it's been years since i've used any
If you want to keep natural parts from rusting, check out Sharkhide, or Boeshield T9.
The easy way is to only drive the car when it's nice and sunny outside. No driving in rain, snow, or when the roads have salt on them. That's what I do. It works like a charm ;).
Por 15 sprays real easy,just make sure you clean the gun good afterwards.