EDIT: Car had a vibration, thought it might be the wheels. I'm was ready for a wheel change anyway so I ordered a new set of wheels. :evilgrin: Got the new wheels mounted but the vibration is still there.
Wheels shipped today!
(http://c1385782.cdn.cloudfiles.rackspacecloud.com/lrs-1007rcl_4202.jpg)
Got the new wheels on if anyone cares. I will post pics later. The vibration is still there...
maybe it's the driveshaft? bent axle?
Of course we care!
We'll care when we SEE IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :P
But those oughta be good. You think the vibration is in front or back?
:ttiwwp:
LOL!! I'm sure they look good. I just got a set of Cobra R's like yours. Now I need a set of plain centers for them. I checked late model resto but I couldn't find the plain ones.
Vibration seems to come from the rear. I have had the driveshaft checked for balance at a place that makes driveshafts. I had the axles out and they seemed true. I'm about out of options...there is a thread somewhere I had on this issue and I had a long list of things I've tried to remedy it.
All I know is the car was 100% stock. I swapped in a TC 8.8 w/3.73's, lowered it on Steeda springs, and added the 17x9 wheels and ever since then there has been this vibration which comes in around 65-70mph.
I've done the following:
1.) set pinion angle with CHE adj upper control arms
2.) driveshaft balanced
3.) new u-joints
4.) tranny has been changed from AOD to T5
5.) new motor mounts
6.) different wheels (same tires though)
7.) I had a local guy who builds rear diff's go through the axle. Its been totally rebuilt (all new bearings, carrier, etc)
8.) brake rotors "turned" at local NAPA
9.) new exhaust system no rubbing anywhere
10.) wheels have been rotated front to rear no change in vibration
I'll start a new thread in the user rides section to show the new wheels.
I was going to say possibly the tires since they're the same ones. But if you rotated them it's probably not them.
I guarantee its something silly and simple. I am planning on putting TC-spec Moog springs in the rear to bring it up a tad and improve ride. When I do so I'm contemplating putting back in the stock control arms to see if maybe the CHA arms are somehow transmitting a vibration.
Do the TC springs lower it a little? I tried lowering mine but it was a mess! I originally bought a set of Ford Motorsports lowering springs for a Mustang and that was way too low! I sold those when I found what was suppose to be a FMS kit for the T-Bird, but it sagged in the rear really bad. I tried stock sn95 stang rear springs, it got worse, then I tried stock fox stang springs, they brought it back up a little but it still sagged really bad. Dan saw it at the Artherities show like that. It was bad. Then I found an 87 or 88 Cougar in the jy and got the stock rears from it. Guess what? It sets level now! I guess the front springs where original spec instead of lowering springs. I'd still like it to be a little lower but I'm not sure I want to deal with it again.
Check your tires for "cupping.". To do that, run your hand over the tread of each tire in the opposite direction of rotation. If your tires are cupped, you'll feel it with your hand. You know what a circular saw blade looks like from the side. That's what the profile of a cupped tire looks like from the side instead of being truly round. The visual effect just won't be as extreme. Cupped tires normally start causing problems like that at higher speeds unless they're badly cupped.
Bad struts and shocks can cause cupping. You didn't mention how old yours were. Bad ball joints can also cause a shaking effect that can show up on the highway. If you haven't checked your balls lately, now would be a good time to do it.
check the backlash in the rear end... my old 7.5 used to make the car shudder going down the highway. i'd get in it and it would go away, but maintaining speed at 65 70 mph was a vibrating mess.
This vibration has been there since these tires were brand new, so that should rule out the tires being cupped. Good thought though.
Sorry I should have mentioned that I put on new monroe shocks and struts right after I lowered the car. I checked the balljoints last year when I did the new rack/ps pump and they seemed OK. Its definately in the driveline and rear of the car...I'm confident its nothing to do with the steering.
The guy that did the rearend for me did check the backlash when he had it in his shop. He told me it was fine. My car just vibrates around 65-70 and it does not matter if I'm in the gas or coasting in neutral. But if you slow down a tad it does diminish. It will get worse as I speed up more. Fastest I've been is 110-ish and it did seem to level off and quiet down a tad at those speeds.
Anyone else have any ideas?
Are those MN12 "fan blade" wheels? I gotta see those on your car!!!! Those are my FAVORITE style of MN12 wheel.
Is it a "hum", like a really high-frequency vibration...compare it to a DA sander or tattoo gun? Or at about the speed the wheels are turning, AS IF you had a big chunk of rubber hypothetically glued to the tread of one of your tires?
No these are 93 Cobra replica's (17x8.5)
Its definately a hum or roar, but you can feel it too. It literally shakes the rearview mirror!
Yeah that's rear end noise. At least that's exactly what my red car does at about 90 or so. I had Richmond 3.73 gears put in. Cost about the same, I should have bought Ford Racing ones or tracked down a set of unabused ones from a factory 3.73 equipped ranger or something. They're not bad, like I said about 90-100 they do that kinda bad, you get up above a buck it goes away LOL.
Either a factory fault or that rear end was modified or re-setup.
I still keep thinking driveshaft. I know it was professionally balanced, but it makes me wonder if the change from 2.73's to 3.73's has the darn thing spinning twice as fast and is causing some wierd harmonic inbalance or something.
So tonight I had to move the car out of the garage. When I went to move it back in, I noticed a chattering sound coming from the rear of the car. I have also noticed in the past a "clunking" noise coming from the rear when I hit bumps. It also used to clunk pretty loud when I had the AOD and would put it into reverse.
Do you guys think the combo of stiff springs and aftermarket control arms could be causing these noises and the vibration I am experiencing? I am thinking about putting the stock control arms back in along with the TC spec Moog springs I have just to see if it eliminates anything.
Did you change anything right before the vibration started? Does the vibration change any whatsoever with tire rotation? How about the exhaust hangers? Could exhaust vibrations be traveling up the hangers and into the cabin? I am really grasping for straws here. This would be a great time for Tom to join in.
Now that the tires and wheels are eliminated as a variable, I wouldn't suggest chasing your tail replacing suspension components. Retorque all the attachment points to eliminate a loose component. Unless the bolts you put into the upper control arms were too small (which I've done...), if everything is properly torqued, there should be no clunking from the suspension.
From your discription of the vibration, it points to driveline.
Though it may have been checked in the past, the first and simplest item to check is the driveshaft. Clunking can be u-joints or differential. This has been going on for some time, it is possible the vibration has caused issue with the differential or worn out the u-joints.
I believe I mentioned this is past threads: I had a vibration issues due to the angle of the engine and the transmission in relation to the driveshaft. I had drop motor mounts (on a Mustang), this caused the tail shaft of the trans to rise, messing with the angle of the driveshaft as it entered the trans: I replaced the motor mounts with standard units and the issue was solved. The same issue surfaced on the Thunderbird when I intalled the T56 with an aftermarket crossmember. The crossmember pushed the tailshaft very close to the trans tunnel: I drilled lower holes in the mounting brackets, problem solved.
As has been stated, it has to be something simple. Just not easy finding it...
hmm.. didn't think of this before, but since the bolts have been mentioned..
make sure none of the mounting holes have been egg shaped if you find any loose/not tight enough bolts.. it's a common problem with 70's broncos/F150s for the panhard bar bolt to bash around when the bushing gets a little worn and beat the hole (in the bracket on the frame) egg shaped, causing front end issues and the occasional noise
Just do a random check. Jack up the rear end of the car and put it on stands leave it in gear and roll the tires back and fourth and listen. You can uncover a bunch of issues. If you hear a loud clunk it could be the pinion bearing or a U-joint.
Im still leaning on one of the carrier bearings being bad.. or possibly an axel bearing.
is it possible... that one time or another in the cars past... that it ran over a big ass hole... and possibly very ever so slightly bent a wheel hub... and now it causes vibration from the teeny tiny warble that its causing amplified 10,000x when at high speed?
Pinion bearings and carrier bearings that go south cause exactly what you are describing. They MOAN at speed. Also check the spider gears and cross pin and pin retainer. I have seen them chewed up pretty good on many 8.8 rears. Clunking is not good from a final drive. I had a customer lock up a diff by having the cross pin let go. Is your diff posi??Without driving the car it is difficult to diagnose. But if the rear gears are not set up correctly. And i have found most so called experts dont know how to do it or lack the proper tools as well. Normally tires will not cause this condition as you said they were new and swapped from front to rear. Also try indexing you drive shaft 180* in the yoke or . This just may point you in the right direction. Now was all the rear axle bearings changed when the gears were replaced??? And is all the PRE-LOADS CORRECT!!! Also did you leave the rear vibration weight on the 8.8 from the turbo coupe rear??? Very important to also have the weights on the tail of the 5 Speeder conversion. Is the tail weights installed on the tranny?? This is stuff that has to be checked. The drive shaft was checked as you explained but is the U joints ok?? Clearly you have a drive line vibration that plagued ford and they came up with weights on the final drive and tranny tail. Good luck
Below is a pinion race i changed to correct a bad vibration my truck had. Notice how the thing is chewed up!!!
(http://i600.photobucket.com/albums/tt88/tomrenzo/family117.jpg)
Pinion angle most likely wont be an issue as i am sure you compared the new control arms for length with the originals. And lowering the car is not a factor most of the time because the 4 link keeps the arms in the proper drive shaft angle. You would have to be way out. Example when guys raised those 4X4 vehicles through the moon they really did not vibrate. So check you diff and by the way the race i posted was from my truck and if i did not cut the cage off and remove the roller bearings the thing looked PERFECT. Also back lash is important and should not exceed .008 in a 8.8. I normally run the street driven 8.8 at .005. Always replace all the races and bearings when replacing final drive gears. I only use FORD gears in our shop. I personally dont like the aftermarket off brand stuff. just me could be wrong. Good luck
Now that you mention the clunk in reverse...
While it's jacked up be sure and and push/pull on each rear wheel in and out, there should be just a hair of slop. I forget the actual figure. But my silver cat has plenty of shaft end-play, which can happen from worn out Trac-Lok clutches. Though it burns both of them pretty well, so I don't know. I haven't ever done a rear end, I'm going to this summer half just to be able to say I know how. But how is thrust-bearing accomplished side to side? Just the sides of the framing that holds the main carrier bearings? I remember when my red cat's 3.73s were put in, going around a broad bend in the road would make it hum more, obviously shoving the gears into each other a little more. Then of course after about two weeks the break-in was done and again, at any speed up until about 90 there was absolutely no noise back there at all.
Again, I am just grasping for straws. If your rear is limited slip, it needs the right amount of anti-slip additive. Without it there may be some strange noises and vibrations, but they would change as u make turns.
Try a different driveshaft first. Easier than anything else to change.
Guys I have had the rearend completely gone through by a very talented local guy. All he does is build rearends and specializes in high performance builds. Everyone within 30 miles holds him in high regard (and he is a Ford guy). He supposedly put in a complete bearing set (even axle bearings), set the backlash, etc. It does have the proper addititve for posi-trac. He basically blew it apart and went through it. Not saying he didnt miss something, I just feel that he would be as capable as anyone else around here.
The exhaust is newer, so that shouldnt be the cause.
I did put new u-joints in maybe 7500 miles ago and there was no change in the vibration afterwards.
Tom--yes the vibration damper thing on the rearend is still intact. It has a Ford carrier and gearset, not aftermarket. I am going to try to unbolt and rotate the driveshaft 180 degrees to see what that does.
The clunking in reverse, etc sure sounds like a suspension component. I guess I need to jack it up and pry around under there again to see what I can see. I have had it up in the air multiple times but can't get it to replicate the sound on jackstands. I have retorqued all the bolts. I did use the bolts that were supplied with the CHE control arms.
I may try to drive the car later and record the sound for you all.
Thanks for the flood of suggestions/advice. This is a very frustrating issue. It seems to put me in a bad mood every time I drive the car. It has gone on so long its easy to lose track of what all I have done to try and fix it! Good thing is, I dont drive the car much or have to rely on it for a dd.
Wow. Pretty messed up. That's all I've got to say right now! Hope you find the culprit.
I have been fighting this very same 70+ mph vibration issue as well. Ive done pretty much the same steps that you have taken. My next step I think is going to try new rotors. Even tho you stated that you have had your rotors turned couldn't they still be off ballance being they are vented couldn't there be an offballance inside the vents with different areas corroding more than another place. Such as in my case the car sat for quite a while?
I'll find it, its only a matter of time! lol. I wish someone had a alum DS I could put on to see if that would cure it. I hate to spend $400+ for one and it not work.
At this point nothing would surprise me! My rearend came out of a TC with a bad trans. When I found it, it had been sitting on the rotors in the dirt with no wheels for god knows how long. So what you are saying actually makes a ton of sense.
Rotors/pads are actually not that pricey to replace either...
I have had this issue since buying the car. Since buying the car I have had 2 different 2.3 and t5 in the car and it currently has been swapped over to at 5.0 T5 combo.
Had vibration will all stock suspension.
Vibration with ballanced DS.
Had a shop check out the rearend and install new axel bearing vibration still there.
All new CHE suspension parts front and rear with new shocks and lowered also had pinion angle set by a shop still have vibration.
All new wheels and tires vibration is still there.
The dam rotors are the only thing I can come up with that I havent changed. The only other thing I am going to try besides rotors is I bought an AL Driveshaft a few months back and plan on having it cut down and ballanced.
Well I'm gonna be pissed if its the rotors after all the other things I've tried, lol. I am like you, the rotors are one of the last options.
I too will be pissed mostly due to the cost of what I have done to the car to try and find it just to find out that its a dam cheep set of rotors. LOL
Seems like I've read this happening before..I think it was Vinnie?... The driveshaft cured the issue in whomever's case, anyhow.
Do you know anyone local that you could borrow their d/s from to test?
Hell, I'd loan you mine even..
Actually if I put new rotors on the car and the vibration is gone I will probably jump and dance around like just won the super bowl
I just look it as hey, I now have a ton of cool upgrades that have improved the car overall.
I don't know how good the quality is, but here are some rotors at Advance Auto for $27.59/ea. (http://"http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_Brake-Rotor---Rear-Wearever_3563162-P_2352_R%7CGRPDRUMAMS_____")
No, I don't think anyone near me would have one I could borrow. I think Vin had a Crown Vic DS modified to work on his Sport.
So do you think that even though I had the stock DS professionally balanced, it could still cause my issue? I don't know what to believe anymore, lol.
It's worth a shot. I don't think the rotors would be the culprit...or you'd feel the vibration at all speeds. But the d/s has hamonics, because it's long, slender, and spins at (now) higher rpm....the rotor don't have nearly as much torsional force on them...
Basically, what I'm trying to say...at a certain speed, the harmonic in your d/s causes it to come out of round a little...hence the vibration at a certain speed.
I read some detailed info on how exactly it happens, usually an aluminum d/s cures the issue...I guess better casting or extruding techniques or however an AL d/s is made...
Ive got an aluminum d/s from a CVPI...still needs cut down. If it was already, I'd loan it to you to test...I'm willing to bet that's the problem. lol
I had a slightly bent rear axle that caused the same problem at 70+mph. Replaced it and the drum on that side and all has been good sense then. I still have the stock drive shaft and 3.73 gears with no vibration issues. I did have mine balanced though.
I'm thinking this is it. FWIW weather or not they will work the 93 MarkVIII has a nice one piece aluminum DS.
If its not that I'd bet its a slightly out of true axle like thunderjet302 suggests.
The original driveshaft on my '86 (convertible) produced a noticeable, repeatable shimmy between 25 and 45 mph.
When I had to get a custom shaft made due to the Mark VII AOD (long story), the vibration went away completely.
The OEM driveshaft had 3 weights on it.
I wouldn't rule out a slightly bent axle shaft (or axle tube, for that matter) but the driveshaft, as noted, is likely the culprit.
Well guys I think you are right about the DS. The driveshaft has been balanced. But the way I understand it, the steel driveshaft's reach a critical speed that causes the shaft to actually bend or deflect in the middle at a certain RPM. I'm not sure what is involved in balancing a driveshaft, but
maybe when they balanced mine they did not spin it fast enough to reach this critical speed? I would think that once a DS was balanced, it should be balanced!
The bent axle would not surprise me, as this rearend came out of a TC in a junkyard. The car was not wrecked but it could be that someone dropped it with a forklift or something and bent an axle. However, the last guy that worked on the rearend for me did have the axles out and said they looked true...so who knows.
You are probably right, sir.
Geez I'm gonna go nuts trying to figure this out! :hick: Thanks again for all the ideas guys. I've been home today taking care of my little guy (has a cold). And in my spare time have been scouring the 'net looking for ideas.
I need to just go crawl under the car and keep looking for it...I will find it.
Here's a vid of the vibration. You can really hear it around 82mph (speedo is off, that's actually about 76-77 mph). Its kinda hard to hear over the exhaust but is kind of a buzzing sound in the video. It seems like it is definately coming from something that is spinning because its not a constant thing. It has a cyclic pattern to it.
[video]http://s495.photobucket.com/albums/rr313/50tbrd88/?action=view¤t=SANY0009.mp4[/video]
it's very possible that they didn't spin the shaft fast enough when balancing.. while the balancers typically do spin fast enough to pick up any balancing defects, the weight of the weld used to attach the weight (dumber sh*t has happened..) could have thrown it off just enough to effect the car at higher speeds.. long shot, but possible
Yeah you can tell there is ANOTHER noise because of that "cyclic pattern". That's called a beat. In the exact sense that anyone normally uses that word. Two sounds with different but close frequencies, their waves combine in spots to form a louder sound that comes and goes when the waves meet up.
At least it doesn't start doing that until highway speed, not like it's completely undrivable for the time being.
Yeah I agree it could be worse...it could do this at 45 or 50 mph. Last year when I took the car on Power Tour and had to do some interstate driving it was not pleasant! I am going again this year in June so I hope to have this vibration taken care of before then.
Found an interesting article over on TCCOA (http://"http://www.tccoa.com/articles/tranny/transmission/page17.shtml").
By the way this reads, it is HIGHLY likely this vibration is caused by the driveshaft critical speed. I guess there may be a aluminum driveshaft in my future. I'm looking at getting one made by these guys (http://"http://www.actionmachineinc.com/aluminumdriveshaft.aspx").
Keep throwing money at it and eventually I will get it. Argh...
I have been anxiously watching this thread! I've got a vibration at 70mph when ever it has just a light little bit of backpressure. The car has just at 100k on it and I've replaced ujoints, tail shaft bushing, checked for play in the rear, and so far nothing has improved it. So definitely looking forward to what you come up with.
Mr Wilson. In my post i gave you some info and i did not mean to belittle anyone's mechanical ability. IE the rear axle builder. With that the noise i think is in the rotating shaft. Do you have the shaft with the big damper on the front like a TC Or Mustang??? They go bad and with you vibration i am leaning to the shaft after hearing you video. Also try this remove the rear axle pinion weight and then test the car at vibration speed. If it changes or moves the vibration up or down you will prove a shaft vibration. Also is your engine balanced that is is it stock or built??? It is very possible the engine is causing it but i dont think so. Replacing the shaft is the next thing i would do. Also remove the tail shaft weight on the tranny and drive the car and see if that changes it. I am willing to bet the shaft is vibrating at harmonics. But it could be caused by a component and not a balance issue. Normally end play in the axles would not cause that kind of vibration. Shaft balance is always critical the lower the numerical ratio you run in the final drive. This increases shaft speed by the ratio. It is directly proportional to it's speed. Good luck.
Example 2.73 to 3.73 the shaft spins faster and can set up a vibration harmonic. With the 2.73 the car would not vibrate because the shaft never was sent in to vibration. But the lower 3.73 could set up the harmonic quite easily. GOOD LUCK
:iagree:
Thanks Tom. As far as motor goes it is the 100% stock 190,000 mile shortblock that I've just converted over to HO specs. The driveshaft is my stock T-bird 5.0 piece and yes the car orginally had 2.73 gears but now has 3.73's. So if this vibration exists now at 75 mph, that means before it would not have shown up at all with the original gears (theres no way my car would run 150 mph).
The driveshaft is just a normal old steel driveshaft, no dampers or anything. I'm going to try and turn the shaft 180 degrees on the and then if that does not work, remove the vibration damper on the rear axle. Like you said, if my vibration gets worse that should tell me its the DS. Obviously Ford knew there was chance for vibration on these foxes...why else would that have installed vibration dampers everywhere, lol.
Chances are that I will be ordering a custom aluminum shaft next month sometime. Happy B-day to me.
That would be higher numerical gears.
The key is way back on the first page of the thread, the vibration is there in neutral or in gear. This means is it isolated to the output shaft in the T-5 to the wheels. With all the other information given I would say that it is definitely the in the DS as Tom has pointed out along with others. I had a FMS aluminum drive shaft in my Coupe and had the u-joints changed due to the rear unit going south. The car vibrated badly after that and it would change as the clocking on the DS changed. I got impatient and ordered a new FMS aluminum drive shaft and installed it. Took the car out for a spin and into triple digits with 3.73's gears it was smooth as room temperature butter.
I battled a similar problem in my Bird but fixed it by blowing up the 306 and beating up one of the AFE 185's with the valve head that separated from the stem. I am almost done with the 351W swap so hopefully it went away but something tells me the aluminum DS I had made by Driver Train Specialists in OKC is and has been the culprit the whole time. IF so I will be PM'ing Vinnie for the shop that built his and going that route. My car has a Tremec TKO in it and I went as far as to pull another TKO out of a known smooth running Mustang and still had the same issue. Had the rear end rebuilt at the Ford dealership, replaced all the rear control arms, swept the pinion angle, took the custom aluminum DS back to DTS to have it rebalanced although they said it was fine, and even had the wheels balanced on the car (never knew a shop could do that but there is one back home that can do it) to eliminate the rotating masses at the corners. You name it I did it all to no avail. I feel your pain man.
Darren
Sorry getting old. Thanks for correcting that WOW BUMMER!!!! TOTALLY EMBARRASSED!!!!!! D'OH!!!
I missed that. I did understand what u meant and agree totally.
Well guys I really feel like the DS is the issue. The day I drive the car with no vibration will be as pleasurable as...well...we won't go there.
And Tom I knew what you meant...I think you mouth outran your brain on that one pal (blame old age if you want). lol, j/k!
watch out, he's not the oldest member! lol
Shadow i am dam close though WHEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! D'OH!!!
I am from the Plugs and points generation.Talk about generation. Does any of you guys remember GENERATORS. KNOW THEM WELL.
I'm 35, but my first vehicle was a '74 Jeep J10 truck..it had points. Nothing like carrying a couple extra sets and a small dwell meter in the glove box, changing the sumbitches on the side of the road...finally I got the ignition fixed where it wouldn't eat the points, only to have charging and alternator issues. Always something going on with that thing. When it ran right, it ran great...when shiznit went wrong..I'd rather have walked barefoot though knee deep prickly pear cactus.
Finally parked it and got an Escort GT that was problem free until the water pump went out...that was an expensive lesson.
generators, holy ! talk about some ancient technology lol
Hahaha reminds me when my dad had his spark plug cleaner/tester station and you could us the tester to charge the points then toss the points at some unsuspecting person and watch them get lit up when they tried catching it.
Sport that is so true !!!!!! I kept an Allen wrench a screw driver and a set of points in the glove box for my chevies
You want to talk how old i am!!!!! My 58 Chevy impala My First Car i actually owned. Had Power steering and the pump was driven by the back of the generator. The pump seal used to blow and wipe out the generator all the time!!!!!
No worries, mostly just razzing you.
No worries Mike i know that. Thanks
My 56 Chevy was like that too.
I know all about points and generators. I have a couple old John Deere's that run them.
I don't know why some people have trouble with the stock shaft going vibrating with 3.73s and some (like me) don't. Turbo Coupes had 3.73s and a steel drive shaft and they were fine. Maybe some drive shafts were built better (less balance weights) than others?
Who knows? I have dug up tons of threads from other forums with Mustang guys who have had the same problems. I just hope that is my problem and I can put this all behind me.
They were built that way from the factory so I am sure Ford figured the harmonics out and balance accordingly. Still sucks though.
Darren
My tc came factory with the 373 I think
Wasn't the TC driveshaft a tad different? I was thinking they were just a tad bit shorter due to the fact TC's could be had with a T5 and the automatic was different than that in the 3.8/5.0 cars. I could be wrong...
The auto's came with 3:73, the manual came with 3:50.
4 feet long exactly with a 5 speeder :burnout:
My car started life as an auto tc
I don't know if they are different from the 5.0's, but the TC auto and T-5 have different drive shafts. The auto is several inches shorter than the manual drive shaft!
:flame:
I will be measuring the driveshaft today so I can send the dimensions in Monday to the shop that will be building me an aluminum one. Stay tuned to see if it fixes my issue.
Hopefully this fixes the issue :).
OK so I have a CV drive shaft ready to get cut down but my car was originally an auto tc. Do I need to have the shop make the al ds to mirror the ds I pulled out or do I need to go grab the ds out of a friend parts car that is an original t5 tc
So do I!! I pulled my s today, boxed them up, and sent them via UPS to the fab shop that willl be building my alum shaft. They said it will take them approximately 3 days to build it and send it out. In the meantime, my uncle and I started prepping the car to weld in the subframe connectors. That ended up being more work than planned due to my Dad using the flimsy frame rails as a jacking point for years. Unfortunately they are battered in pretty badly.
I would measure from your output shaft to the rear axle and see how the TC shaft measures. In my opinion you could run it as long as it fits and does not vibrate.
The only reason I am going aluminum is to try and eliminate my vibration. And it still may not cure it.
That is why Im wanting to go with an aluminum DS (eliminate my vibration) I would just like to know if I should have it made to the DS length that I have in my car or go pull the DS out of the parts car and use it as the template.
I really didn't use my driveshaft as a template since it was my original AOD/5.0 one. I just measured from the very end of the output shaft on the T5 to the on the rearend (with the DS removed). It measured something like 52 11/16" but every car is different (or so they say). I just gave that measurement and my old / slip yoke to the DS shop and they will figure it out from there I guess.
Call them and ask. When I had mine made they asked me to measure from where the U-Joint would go in the transmission yolk to the face of the rear end . This would be with the yolk pushed into the tailhousing of the transmission as far as it would go and the car at its typical ride height. They generally subtract anywhere from 1/2" to 3/4" from that length and build the DS. This will allow for rear axle movement up and down which will shorten and lengthen the distance from the face on the axle to the transmission. Hopefully that makes sense.
Darren
I called them and they said to measure it in the manner I did it...I'm sure each shop has their own way of doing it.
I would just be concerned with how the yolk fits into the tail housing of the tranny but I am no DS expert by any means. Something tells me it will install just fine and hopefully this solves your problem.
Darren
I hope you are right!
Just called the DS shop. They said they hope to get it shipped out Monday. I am anxious to get it and see if my vibration is gone. I am also looking forward to driving it with the subframe connectors!
So I got my new driveshaft. Beautiful piece...slid the yoke onto the trans output shaft and then the worst happened. The darn thing is 2"-3" too long even with the slip yoke bottomed out on the seal on the output of the trans.
I followed their measuring technique per their ordering instructions on their website, but something got screwed up somewhere along the line. I guess its going back north on UPS tomorrow. Hopefully they will have it back to me by mid-week. My uncle is needing his garage free. This is very frustrating!!
it man! That sucks. Hang in there they will get it right.
Darren
Well apparently Friday the 13th is my lucky day. I just installed my new alum DS from action machine and The bird is now vibration free!!!!
Congrats! Now you can drive over 70mph comfortably :).
Sweet! That's great news!!
Glad to hear it's fixed!
Glad to hear (read? lol) this!! :bowdown:
Thanks guys. I was very pleased overall. While the car was in the air I fixed quite a few other annoying things. I dropped the trans and split it to put on the correct speedo gear, changed out the CHE adj arms/Steeda springs for non-adj CHE's/TC springs, and welded in the SFC's.
I can't believe what a difference this all made in the enjoyment of driving the 'bird! It rides better, is vibration free, and I actually know how fast I'm going now!! This all makes me just that much more excited for Power Tour.
Who was the shop that did the work?
Darren
Yaaaayyyyy!!!!!!!!!!! Good to hear you FINALLY got this problem fixed :D
Action Machine out of South Bend, IN. I should have taken a pic of it before I installed it...very nice (and beefy) driveshaft.
Thanks! Its a relief.
Glad to hear you got it fixed!