On my 88 SO 5.0 I've been told the heads are an E6 head. I found a fresh set of E7 heads for $100. Are they worth the upgrade if I'm just putting together a mild 306? I planned on a decent camshaft, probably like a Motorsports E-cam. What I've seen online people are saying E6 and E7 heads are equally junk. If I should go with better aftermarket heads then I'll just have to save up.
I think you cant go wrong with gt 40p heads and this can be found at ur local junk yard on 98 explore and at the same time you can get the upper and lower intake to go with them. Yuo cant go wrong with the E-cam nice choice
I thought I remember seeing that GT-40p heads need a special header. Is that right? That's why I quit looking at the Explorer stuff.
Lot of needless confusion here.
E7 heads ARE an improvement over the E6 heads....that's why Ford used them on trucks and Mustangs in 1987 on (hence the E7 moniker).
Now, if you can find a set of used, but good GT40 heads, by all means, throw 'em on. I wouldn't pay more than 100 bucks for a set of E7, and if they needed work, I wouldn't even pay that.
Now, the GT40 P heads *might* require a different header because of spark plug angle issues, although I've heard and read that some guys have no issues either way..guess it depends on your aptitude in changing spark plugs. Some swivel or flex sockets are a must.
You can also search this...it's been beat to death :)
you can take the headers right off the explore all in one package and be ready to go if need be but thunderbird sport is right some guys dont have a issue at all
i've heard numerous accounts of people using BBK shortys with zero issues on the p-heads.. the only real issue is the driver side head, because the plug is 'behind' the exhaust port (picture below).. on the passenger side, the plugs are in 'front' of the exhaust port.. so with most headers sweeping back, towards the firewall, the passenger side almost always clears fine..
it's kind of funny we're talking about p-heads though.. i was just at a junkyard in dover, de that has 6, YES, 6 V8 exploders with the GT40p's and the intakes still nestled under the hood
(http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/s720x720/396632_10151091516470335_585700334_22489786_1674996277_n.jpg)
the headers are a bit hard to find.. a lot of them had stupid cast manifolds.. they're the only 1's i'm ever able to find >:l
MAC makes a set or so I've read. But I might say screw it and just make a set work. Not like I haven't had a pain in the but car to work on. :welder:
if you c00ch up a set of p heads, i recommend porting them.. especially on the exhaust side.. they're 1 of ford's best small block heads, but they still leave a lot of room for improvement.. nothing a dremel can't fix, though
Figure I'd gasket match them at the very least no matter what heads I use.
I just found a set of rebuilt GT40p heads for $350 for the set. Guess I got a decision to make.
gasket matching isn't all that great, since it typically makes a 'balloon' in the intake runner.. it pays to pop the valves out and do a full port job, especially right behind the valves.. there's a lot to be gained by a full port job, little to be gained by gasket matching
Yeah I haven't heard of any quality machine shops around here anymore. So I'm just gonna have to do what I'm able.
Here's an FYI:
The stock 5.0 SO pistons are flat tops and do not have any valve reliefs. The valves on the GT40P heads will hit the pistons in a 5.0 SO block because the valves are 1.84" vs. 1.78 on the E6 and E7 heads. You'll have to use new pistons or fly-cut the stock ones.
I'm running GT40P heads with the FRPP Fox-body shorty headers. They fit fine and you can get to the plugs easily.
(http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa33/thunderjet302/clean%20T-bird/DSCN1914.jpg)
a monkey can do a full port job lol it's easy to do, you just have to pay attention, take your time (which is easy because they're cast iron, not aluminum) and measure your work
Yeah as far as piston to valve clearance I'm starting with seasoned 302 roller block that needs bored so I planned on a flat top with valve reliefs.
I guess I'll have to do some research on a port job since I've always thought that it was a complicated thing.
porting is easy.. it only gets a little more involved if you try to copy a professional's work or try maxing out the port size..
I was reading and a basic porting is just taking off rough edges and smoothing out the runners. So I'll probably just clean up the runners, and hopefully smooth out any poor casting mess.
you can go a bit further than that.. while that will increase power, the gain will be so slight, you'll never notice an ounce of difference.. i attended joe mondello's tech school before my senior year of high school, where they have a 'cylinder head porting course'.. they teach you all the in's and out's of porting.. most of the noticeable portwork comes from behind the valves.. mostly grinding the edges of the material that surrounds the valve guide.. that, along with opening up the port size throughout the runners, to increase the flow.. the most power, in my experience with P heads, is opening the exhaust ports up a pretty decent amount.. i have a picture of my before and after 306's p-heads somewhere.. i'll post them up so you can see how far i went, if i can find them
Great that would be a huge help. The 306 I'm buying parts for should blow my SO 5.0 away. I'm tempted on doing a chasis dyno pull on my stock motor then do another after the install. Could be interesting to see the difference.
i also took a polishing stone to the combustion chambers to remove any of the casting slag.. it's not something you want to get too carried away with, just a little polishing and walk away..
(http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/60895_10150278377110335_585700334_15043849_5797930_n.jpg)
stock exhaust ports, followed by how i ported them.. i opened them up to match the primaries on the headers i'm currently building.. i took more off the bottom than the top, because i get better results with them ported that way, because of the way i ported the bottom side of the exhaust runner
(http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/62997_10150277615105335_585700334_15021715_6560236_n.jpg)
(http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/s720x720/408311_10151113048195335_585700334_22604086_296065943_n.jpg)
what cam are you gonna use in it? and are u putting in cut pistons, flattops could cause a valve clearance issue
who, me? or the OP? my 306 has KB FHR's in it, so i'm good for a pretty GIANT cam :)