Well, She's been sitting too long, To the point that I'm even Embarrassed to say how long.
This HAS to be the year I get down and dirty, And put my baby on the Road.
As you may or May not know, She ain't all that pretty right now, Prior owner abused her (Inside and outside big time, I did not make those stupid primer squares) & She has V6 (Half apart)... But she was free, Is rust free, My first car and I love her and that's all that matters. :mad:
First priority is to get her Running Good, Registered and Tabbed.
Then: Body Work, LOTS of upgrades + Blood, Sweat and Tears (LoL) will follow.
Project Thunderstorm Strikes... Soon~More towards Summer likely, I don't have the luxury of indoor garages or good weather *sigh*.
Just wanted to get the build thread up. :hick:
(http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b325/Aesthetikz/Thunderbird/tbirdlouvers03.jpg)
Have fun and don't shed too many tears and not too much blood!! lol
the 80's called, they want their rear window louvers back lol what are your plans motor wise? sticking with the V6? looks like a solid start from what little i can see
Good luck with the resto. Post some more pics when you get it out. Be nice to have the before pics of the body and interior.
i want louvers so bad for my 87!
In 1978 I had a model of an AMC Pacer X that had louvers. Too cool.
Edit: Ha! I can't believe I found a picture of it.
(http://www.amcpacer.com/images/archives/mpc78pacer1.jpg)
meeeeemories :rollin:
(http://www.portlandmercury.com/binary/c0fc/1315517603-1.jpg)
I sure hope not!
Will do,
Be warned~I started tear down already awhile back, So the interior is not much to look at right now, Then again... It wasnt much to look at to begin with~As I said, Was not well cared for.
Though I have since acquired an all "New" Interior from local junkyards and such that will be going in~All the way down to the carpeting.
:beatyoass:
V6 will be put back together and run for awhile while I'm getting her in presentable shape, The I'll be looking to do a 351w swap in the future.
I acquired this running non-roller 351 for a s trade:
(http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b325/Aesthetikz/Thunderbird/wip351w.jpg)
It will likely get built and go in someday unless something else comes up.
Right now I'm looking into some shop tools I would like to have (And make things easier) that are within my budget, As well as some important parts I'll be needing before I get started.
I've got a few random small dents, Nothing major except the drivers door skin is sort of curved inward toward the bottom.
However there is some pretty bad damage right above the pass rear wheel well (Worst on the car, Besides the busted up header when i got it).
I'll try and get a pic up of it, It's very odd... And has the shiznittiest repair job ever.
Anyway,
After researching some low cost, But still quality repair ideas~I've been thinking about using a Stud Welder Gun.
I found this one by far to be the best price:
http://www.harborfreight.com/stud-welder-dent-repair-kit-98357.html
Anyone used this before? Thoughts?
*Pic update:
(http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b325/Aesthetikz/Thunderbird/100_1450.jpg)
Ugh, Looks Worse than I was thinking...
Rust is surface, But I'm going to have do tons of reshaping.
Wondering what kind of hit made it crease like that... I remember measuring awhile back to check if the frame was bent and it was fine.
yes, and i LOVE it.. so far, it's outlasted my dad's matco stud gun 2 times over
If you get that stud gun, buy another slide hammer. The one that comes with it, will only grab about 5 studs, then strip....
mine's still going strong.. maybe you had a faulty 1? or maybe i have 1 of the few good 1's.. lol
I loooove your project name lol
Keeping my eye on this one. Haven't been following an 83/84 project I don't think since Watchdevil left
Thanks guys.
I'll go ahead and add that Stud Welder to my buy list, Looks like its a hard to get item though since it's back ordered online and such.
Has anyone got any DIY experience with valve guide installs?
I've got a chipped guide in the head that's off the car.
I have found what looks to be a good method of removing online (Tap, insert bolt, insert dowel from backside and hammer tap out), But want to be safe installing since this is an aluminum head. I do not have a press.
valve guides are something i don't mess with.. i prefer to let a machine shop handle it, since it's a bit of a sensitive area, especially in aluminum heads.. but if you remove it, a machine shop shouldn't charge you much to install a new 1 while you wait
i like that rear spoiler...more pics please :)
Nice project I'm hoping that you will inspire me to get moving on mine:) The louvers are money please keep them!
I like the louvers too. I'm one of the rare people to have them on my 88. I doubt I'll ever take them off of it.
Again, Pretty Embarrassed to say the engine has still been half apart.
BUT!
I got a kick in butt when I went out to check on things and oil down/fog the engine.
Found a rodent had been trying to drag across and possibly into the block... I found a half a nutshell sitting in the valley... Rust spots occurred in middle cylinder on drivers side and in the valley a bit.
Moisture levels are high around Here + excessive NW Rain, If I were to block off passages with rags they would get rusty so I just left them open and kept fogging and oiling occasionally.
While having a brand new looking set of machined heads sitting in my basp00get, With a Complete gasket set and I thought brand new box of Head Bolts... To Be Continued...
I spent hours doing damage control, with the intent to get the Head on.
Please correct me if I used wrong methods, So I know what to do in the future.
I'm self taught at this stuff, With some old school advice from my Father and web searches when totally unsure but that always comes with various results for different applications.
I didn't have enough room to run a roloc disc on a drill, Our compressor is spitting watery oil even through the (Harbor freight, Ew) Filters, So I didn't want to go that route with an angle tool+Roloc.
So I sed the minimal gasket material with a very careful pile of sharp razors and I got out my dremel and a wire bristle tip on low settings then double and triple checked being careful with razors. I can run a razor over every part and its nice and flat. I was extremely careful and had the shop vac sucking up crud.
Mostly the razors did the work, I'm feeling the like wire bristle just sort of polished. I'm going to try a scotchbrite pad carefully just as a last go over.
I used WD40 and 2000 grit sand paper on the rust spots very carefully until they didn't catch my fingernail and felt flush and smooth~Really wrong thing to do or no? I had no steel wool and stores were closed. This is where I'm hoping it doesn't come back to haunt me.
Just wire brushed the valley, Got all the stuff that was gonna come up to do just that, I assume I shouldn't be worried with this area.
Cleaned out any and all crud I found, WD40, Shop towels, Fingers and Shop vac.
Continued>Then the thought struck me as I was going to run a tap through the bolt holes~What did I do with the head bolts?! Dun dun dun...
Needless to say I couldn't find the box of brand new head bolts anywhere, And to make things worse none of the local parts stores have them in stock.
My best bet is O'reillys MIGHT have 24hour delivery on them, I'll find out later today.
So yet again, She sits, With her engine now marred from critters and attempted rust, And half naked until I can get some head bolts. Sigh.
Here is a sad shot:
(http://i1131.photobucket.com/albums/m555/Aesthetikz2/IMG_20130209_024220_zpsa8d78e93.jpg)
I didn't clean the tops of the cylinders, use a scotchbrite pad (Should I just not?) or run taps yet.
I don't know if soaking the valley and block with WD40 is bad or not, But I know for sure it's better than rust. And I know I need to use brake cleaner and/or alcohol with a rag when I set the gasket.
I had good results coating the head gaskets with copper spray when I did them on our '94 V6 Astro Van, I also used the 2000 grit method in one of the cylinders that had a cracked head and some slight water spots, And compression is great almost 2,000 Miles later.
So I'm thinking I'll do that again with the copper coat, Even though these blue and grey felpro gaskets are pretty thick. Has anyone had to clean up after doing this, Then removing the head later. And how bad was it with the copper coat remains?
I will certainly be flushing the coolant and draining the oil (Maybe drop the pan?) before even thinking of trying to start it.
I just hope it still runs OK in the end for awhile. I've always planned on sticking a V8 in there at some point anyway.
I know I'm probably going to get some Backlash... But I do what I can, With what I have available to me, When I have time. And I do my Best.
PS: Am I supposed to replace the dowel pins?
2 questions, Need an answers quick please:
1: ) Do I need to replace the dowel pins (2x in the block side).
2: ) And which side of FelPro gaskets faces upward? Pic:
(http://i1131.photobucket.com/albums/m555/Aesthetikz2/IMG_20130210_123631_zps6b2c35be.jpg)
Both sides are facing the printed "FRONT", Did I get a mismatch, Or is this normal for them?
I didn't have this issue with Victor Reinz... :wtf:
As you can see in the block picture and also on my new heads, There are water jacket openings...
As you see above one end is blocked, I don't have the original gasket and I REALLY don't want to block wrong passages.
Lil' Help? Please.
front goes forward no matter if the gasket has to be flipped on the opposing side to do so otherwise FRONT means FRONT lol
and yes you must have the dowels in place
THANK YOU SLEEPER.
So water passages on the REAR it seems. Positive? I want so badly for this to end well.
Front of the engine is the belt/accessory side, Correct? Just checking... And yes one would be need to be flipped, which seems odd to me since blue line side is flat and gray side has raised areas. I'll go Victor Reinz next time.
The original Dowels are in place and cleaned up, I was just wondering if it was necessary to replace them as was the bolts.
PS: I went in around 9am on Saturday to O'Reilly Autos and the guy said he would have them sent to the store by 4pm (They arrived just after 1pm). So props to them on that! I was figuring at least a 1 full day or more.
front of engine is where the belts are, front of gasket always faces this direction, and the gasket lines are just a design the v8 ones are the same way also
nothing odd about it thats why they mark them "front" ive put hundreds of felpro's on with no issues
Thanks again!
Whats your thought on copper coating them (Spray can)? And Do you know if it cleans up fine if I end up havng to take the head off again? Seems like it has the potential to be messy... Though worked well on the Astro Van.
I'm going over my "New" Heads, Got them from A.R.S. Machine shop on ebay awhile back.
They look spray painted silver but the mating surfaces look nicely machined, and theres no overspray on the springs and such. Hrm.
I cant find my spring compressor, But there is particle crud in a couple valve openings and the valve keepers look re-used, As is all the other metal parts...
Making me wonder if they did a valve job or lapped at the least or even replaced the seals. Urgh.
Valve keepers can safely be reused, unless of course something happened to them previously where they might have been broken or something. If you were putting together a 10,000 dollar engine now, probably new ones would be planned for ;)
Just keep everything clean, and double check to make sure you don't drop a bolt or nut into the engine during any part of it. And keep asking questions...no shame in that. No matter if you're been into cars for 2 months, or 25 years, you can learn something new every day if you've got an open mind.
Thanks!
I found my makeshift spring compressor.
Got first 2 valves apart and they look OK.
Though, They may not have done a Valve job~Can't quiet tell, And the particle (And residue) junk may be from lapping.
Still not sure if the valve seals were replaced or just dirty from the shop.
Pics:
(http://i1131.photobucket.com/albums/m555/Aesthetikz2/IMG_20130210_164054_zps6f0f39e8.jpg)
(http://i1131.photobucket.com/albums/m555/Aesthetikz2/IMG_20130210_170252_zps476e2e35.jpg)
(http://i1131.photobucket.com/albums/m555/Aesthetikz2/IMG_20130210_170319_zpsa106dcd0.jpg)
Note: There is a perfect faint light line all the way around on these (Look closely), Is that just where it hits?
Everything look acceptable to you guys?
PS: Random question~What weight oil do you guys use or suggest? Just 10w-30?
Yes, No, Maybe?
Don't be afraid to chime in...
more then likely just fine, i personally like to see a hair wider band
Do you mean on the Valves, Head or Both?
(http://i1131.photobucket.com/albums/m555/Aesthetikz2/1984%20Ford%20Thunderbird/IMG_20130211_171337_zps2dbcd035.jpg)
(http://i1131.photobucket.com/albums/m555/Aesthetikz2/1984%20Ford%20Thunderbird/IMG_20130211_171611_zps3751d186.jpg)
Also, How much pitting is acceptable? It's the only valve that has pitting and the sealing band seems ok... (Edge is bumpy, See pic 2).
I'm likely going to lap and replace seals just for piece of mind, I have to get the machine shop crud out anyway.
So if anything needs attention let me know now so I can get it done, And done right!
If that valve is the worst, I'd probably run it, as long as it's been lapped and the seats are good (looks like they have been done alright?)
Clean 'er up, put it together, and drive it for a long time. :)
i had them rear window louvers on my mustang and looks like them are them as they do not quite fit at the bottom
Interesting Silent, I did note they fit a little awkward.
This pitted Intake Valve is bugging me. You normally want smooth internals from my research.
Is it going to affect performance at all? How in the world did an Intake Valve even get that rough and pitted to begin with?
I could buy a brand new valve for $8, But it obviously wouldn't match the cut of the others. And again, Not sure if that's a problem or not.
PS: Happy Valentines Day.
pitts wont hurt anything unless it is in the seat or were it rides in the guide
The real question is, Would YOU be comfortable running something like that~With no intent in any near future to remove the head again?
Would it throw things off worse if I did buy a new intake valve, Then would I need it cut to match at the machine shop to match the others?
My perfectionist side is coming out...
I'm also having concerns with the Valve Seals (They look dirty and used)>
My rebuild kit came with "Intake Set/6" (What I'm used to seeing http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/SPO0/ST2110/02314.oap?year=1984&make=Ford&model=Thunderbird&vi=1140129&ck=Search_valve+stem_02314_1140129_2544&keyword=valve+stem&pt=02314&ppt=C0146) and "Exhaust set/6 with weird tube" (Lil' Umbrellas...http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/SPO0/MV1819/02314.oap?year=1984&make=Ford&model=Thunderbird&vi=1140129&ck=Search_valve+stem_02314_1140129_2544&keyword=valve+stem&pt=02314&ppt=C0146 (http://"http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/SPO0/MV1819/02314.oap?year=1984&make=Ford&model=Thunderbird&vi=1140129&ck=Search_valve+stem_02314_1140129_2544&keyword=valve+stem&pt=02314&ppt=C0146")), From what I've read and can see the "Umbrellas" are garbage.
Of course the local parts stores don't help much.
Is this the same for you V8 guys? I assume you just use the same seals for both intake and exhaust?
And where are all the 3.8 Guys at? I know We had some... Did they get rid of the 6banger that quick? LoL.
PS: The block is fine while I'm dilly-dallying.
Are you telling me you are still trying to save that old-school 6 banger? When you get it put back together, make sure you add some ZDDP to the 10-30 oil you are going to run. I killed my first engine by not knowing it had a flat-tappet cam that didn't like straight 30w. :(
Yes, Yes I Am! I refuse to let her go to the crusher. >:-(
Where you been jrad???!!! I've had a ton of questions you can probably easily answer.
jrad>What Valve Seals setup did you go with? I'm trying to avoid "Umbrella" type.
And I went looking for some extra help on the subject, And am being told these heads/valves are in terrible unacceptable shape:
http://moparforums.com/forums/f38/pitting-acceptable-14262/#post98072
Heads are going to make a trip to the local Machine Shop, and He tells it as it is over there. So I guess we will find out soon.
nothing wrong with umbrella seals they used them for many many years
I liked the Vitons I used on the Astro.
Second head has water passage issues (chunk missing in 2 key places, Gasket barely covers one). I'm just not satisfied at all with the purchase from A.R.S. Machine shop (FL).
I'm headed to the JY to scout for Heads to be done PROPERLY over at Jay's machine shop. And also check out an unexpected '84 T-Bird that's showing on the list.
The '87 Base Bird that had the Heads I need and Spring Hood Hinges apparently met it's maker already... which certainly didn't take long, I keep reading on the site they are trying to move inventory so that there is more NEWER (95 and up) vehicles than anything else, Which sucks.
Next 2 days at Pick-N-Pull is 1/3rd off also.
If I have to put the extra Work and Money in then so be it, It's not preferred obviously, But I need a solid top end rebuild that will last and maintain against my heavy foot.
I've always been a Private Message away, I at least look in weekly.
The more I look at those valves the more I agree with everyone else. Just junk them. If you also have water jacket issues then it is definitely time for a new pair. I tossed my original heads at least 3 years ago, otherwise they'd be all yours. When you take the new heads to the machine shop, figure out what size valve stems they have. I think you can machine into the head anything you want, and some of the other V6(newer) guys are using these; http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TFS-51900454
Viton as requested.
My new motor runs these from the factory; http://www.amazon.com/Victor-B45906-Valve-Stem-Seal/dp/B007DKPZU0
And this is listed as stock replacement on an 83 V6; http://www.amazon.com/Victor-Reinz-Exhaust-Engine-B45399/dp/B007DKPTUG
Thanks for all the info and help!
Agh, You threw your old heads out. :-(
I was eyeing the Victor Vitons, But I cant tell how many come per order or seem to find a solid answer on that part number.
JY didnt happen today sadly.
Will early tomorrow (Last day of sale). And if I find some heads I'll be struggling to pull em within 4 hours as I have an appointment elsewhere. Also need to scout spindles on a '95 Mustang that's listed.
I did get some work done, May not seem like much, But it's progress~
I wire wheeled, sanded down and cleaned up a set of Spring Hinges:
(http://i1131.photobucket.com/albums/m555/Aesthetikz2/1984%20Ford%20Thunderbird/IMG_20130217_152313_zps721074e3.jpg)
I had to use trusty Ol' Thor (Handed down from my Grandfather):
(http://i1131.photobucket.com/albums/m555/Aesthetikz2/1984%20Ford%20Thunderbird/IMG_20130217_131931_zps9a4490dd.jpg)
And flat blocks to straighten one out that managed to get bent where it meets the hood (Worked like a charm).
Need to pick up some Black Primer, Grab the rubber hinge seal thingers from the JY, And install. TC Hood stays Red for awhile longer.
I'm also going to weigh the original Prop Rod Hinges and then the Spring Hinges and see what the difference in weight is. I'm feeling like it's not much (Counting the prop rod).
Per Summit's website, they come 8 individual seals to a package, so for a V8 complete set you would need two packages.
And thanks again!
So there is no issue using the same seals for both intake and exhaust eh?
This is what came in my FelPro Gasket set:
(http://i1131.photobucket.com/albums/m555/Aesthetikz2/1984%20Ford%20Thunderbird/IMG_20130218_005739_zpsa1757d9f.jpg)
I've actually been looking for another 6 of these with no real success besides "Sealed Power" Brand. Odd.:
(http://i1131.photobucket.com/albums/m555/Aesthetikz2/1984%20Ford%20Thunderbird/IMG_20130218_005746_zps3a2f6fc1.jpg)
There is also this option on ebay, Dunno what brand these are though:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-3-8L-V6-84-95-VITON-VALVE-SEALS-set-of-12-new-Thunderbird-Mustang-/120964182130?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c2a06f072&vxp=mtr
No go on the Heads, Right now at least.
If any of you have a lead a nice set shoot me a message.
This is the '84 they had~Turned out to be a v8:
(http://i1131.photobucket.com/albums/m555/Aesthetikz2/Junkyard/IMG_20130218_152656_zps7a6b6b95.jpg)
Nice to see parts being used.
They were also doing burnouts in a 78 Ranchero GT, Guy said it just came in from a dealer and is going out for sale soon "Probably $1700" "Thing is tough, I was barely on it".
It was all there besides some a/c and emissions stuff messed with, Looked painted which is probably hiding stuff. Also had a duct tape bench seat, And underside rust looked like it could be problematic.
I actually found the previous owners listing for it:
http://www.cars.com/go/search/detail.jsp?tracktype=usedcc&listingId=106089898&aff=oodle
I wanted/want it but don't have the funds, Could make space but would get shut down by the property owners. Heh.
They also have a Factory Purple '97 6-Banger for sale with yanked out door lock and leaking engine seals.
Back to Project ThunderStorm!
I need Heads! 83-87 Only.
My local yards dont have any at the moment. Bad timing to say the least.
Someone has to have a lead or even a set laying around that will machine up nice.
Well todays PicknPull trip was full of fail.
For starters the Silver T-Bird (Above) got crushed already, This seems to keep happening every time I need a part...
An obscure JY Item was gone (Vintage Plate Sets). Questioned it, And lost the oppurtunity.
No one has bought the Ranchero yet, And I fear it will meet the crusher with how they are handling things lately.
Weird peoples trying to knock over cars (I'm trying to get a part off of) to get a to underside parts...
Worst of all, This:
(http://i1131.photobucket.com/albums/m555/Aesthetikz2/Personal/DualStitches-SwedishER-2-22-2013-Mini_zpsd660cdd1.jpg)
AND $69.19 after fees, Was the cost for '94 SN95 of Spindles and Hubs.
Mine came with louvers... People seem to love them. Me, not so much.
Quick Update:
No progression sadly, I'm having a heck of a time finding a pair of Heads which was very unexpected.
Fogging/Oiling up every Monday.
I'm also dealing with "Benzo" Medication Withdrawls after only missing a few doses and then staying off it. I could be tweaked for awhile from what I've been reading... Cold Turkey now for about 6 days and rapidly progressing through the hellish list of symptoms as I refuse to go back on this , And shouldnt have even been put on it. Bringing Me down hardcore... Sigh.
Things are looking up!
I made a 50mile round trip just to visit this Rare Sight today:
http://row52.com/Vehicle/Index/1FABP46W7GH162961
Left it like this:
(http://i1131.photobucket.com/albums/m555/Aesthetikz2/Junkyard/IMG_20130413_163826_zps105b4179.jpg) (http://s1131.photobucket.com/user/Aesthetikz2/media/Junkyard/IMG_20130413_163826_zps105b4179.jpg.html)
Just over $100 (To my surprise, Guy got lazy ringing stuff up) got Me this:
(http://i1131.photobucket.com/albums/m555/Aesthetikz2/Junkyard/IMG_20130413_163838_zpsf6ac2d26.jpg) (http://s1131.photobucket.com/user/Aesthetikz2/media/Junkyard/IMG_20130413_163838_zpsf6ac2d26.jpg.html)
Hard to see everything, But I got: Nice Tail Lenses, Trunk Lid Liner, ALL side body moulding, TC Bumper Cover, Skinny Black Console Lid, TC Horn Button, Auto Dim Rear View Mirror, TC Pillar Trim, Painted Grille, Fog Light Brackets, Shifter Nob, TC Coolant Jug + Brackets, Etc.
And...
I'll hopefully get my Heads from this one, Pending it isn't already crushed like they always do to me at this yard:
http://row52.com/Vehicle/Index/1FABP4636FH221101
Oh, And I apparently went through the standard cold turkey Benzodiazpine withdrawals crazy fast, But seem to be having some "Protracted Withdrawals" from chemical changes in the brain??? 3 weeks later which is not a fun experience and infuriates Me even more about the whole situation.
But at least I'm working back to getting the T-Bird put back together again.
PnP Sale, Heads up!
And of course after I make a big junkyard trip they reveal an upcoming sale... Heh~
Free Admission and 15% off entire purchase (Which basically covers "environmental" and state taxes over here) from the 18th through 21st at Pick-N-Pull locations.
Are you freaking kidding me...
I went for the heads, And YET AGAIN the car is already crushed. Seriously?!
They do have a Supercharged Thunderbird, Anyone know if theres anything I should grab off it? (Supercharger gone). I assume the heads wouldnt do me any good...
I just read your whole thread AND your thread in the parts wanted section, and I'd like to point out that if had you gone with the 351 you'd be driving it by now. Perfect heads for a carb or CFI 3.8 is a pipedream. Not too late to get on the right track though.
FINALLY!!!
(http://i1131.photobucket.com/albums/m555/Aesthetikz2/1984%20Ford%20Thunderbird/IMG_20130418_104452_zps431c8328.jpg) (http://s1131.photobucket.com/user/Aesthetikz2/media/1984%20Ford%20Thunderbird/IMG_20130418_104452_zps431c8328.jpg.html)
E3SE's
Yes the exhaust valves are burnt, Likely need to replace them~Already have spares.
Gasket surfaces and openings look fantastic. Next month the local machine shop will get them ready to bolt on.
*Side note: LTD I got them off of will be crushed tomorrow... I got there "early" this time! LoL.
I do agree with all the trouble this caused, I might have been better off dealing with the 351...
Oh well. I want to take some time and enjoy building up the 351 though, And not throw it together and rush it in. I've never actually done an engine swap either, So probably would have taken just as long and I need Her running soon. I'll throw the goodies at Her when she is actually proven roadworthy.
I would've c00ched up the SC 3.8 long block. It has a stronger block. At one time I had thought about doing a SC 3.8 stroked to 4.2 ,SC'd, w/ 5spd in my bird.
That SC looked like a PITA to work on, Crammed in there.
I'm seeing a straight engine swap would really have likely been the best bet at this point... But Now, I'm just too far into the rebuild to turn back. Just need the car running again and then I'll keep moving forward with it.
Been playing around in the engine bay, Cleaning and Clearing up the pass side to work on and yanked out the Smog and EGR? that really hinders even changing the spark plugs over there.
I found JCassitys older post on removing the smog, So I'll use that as a guide, And research some more on it and hopefully get it done right.
I know it's asking for way too much from the puny v6, But any suggestions as to "Mods or deboggers" or just removing anything unnecessary while the top end is apart?
Add Underdrive pulleys maybe? And how would that affect smog removal...
(http://i1131.photobucket.com/albums/m555/Aesthetikz2/1984%20Ford%20Thunderbird/IMG_20130425_203217_zpsdebe3777.jpg) (http://s1131.photobucket.com/user/Aesthetikz2/media/1984%20Ford%20Thunderbird/IMG_20130425_203217_zpsdebe3777.jpg.html)
Yours is TBI, correct? Does it still have the crossover heating tubes in the intake plenum?
CFI/TBI. And I think thats adressed below?\/
This is what I'm using as a base guide:
http://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?1022-Smog-pump-delete-on-CFI-3.8
And I'll be ordering one of these as it seems to be a really good deal:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/120676347701?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
That thread had no mention of the coolant crossover tubes in the intake that I could see. It would be fairly difficult to remove them, as you would have to take the intake off and block coolant flow through it, then make sure that wouldn't cause an overheat issue by checking the flow diagram. If you can find one. but it is certainly an obstruction in the intake. You should see them clearly if you remove the throttle body. They will be covered in black soot from the EGR.
I havent actually got that far yet, Waiting on Machine Shop and tinkering with other things.
(http://torquespecs.tripod.com/images/mustang79-93_3_8L_f2.jpg)