I'm looking to put either a 306 or if funds are there a 331 in my 88 LX bird. I'm planning on a decent cam and I'm gonna keep my AOD for now. I'm thinking 2800-3000 stall speed on the converter. Guess my question is do I need a lock-up converter or not?
If that AOD is stock...non-locking would be a much better choice, especially if you have modified the valve body for more pressure i.e. shift kit etc. A firm shift into 3rd with lockup happening at the same time, with a lot of torque from a worked-up motor could snap that pencil-like inner shaft like...a pencil LOL. You could do a 1 piece input shaft...which then eliminates lockup anyway, or a hardened high-strength lockup shaft. Both are available.
I talked to Dirty Dog about it, I have a non lock 3000 and I'd like to have lockup just so I could cruise in OD at below stall....I was going to get a hardened lock shaft and do that, the guy on the phone adamantly refused to even talk about custom making a lockup converter with the same stall for me LOL. I think he said other hard parts are weak as well like the OD band/3rd gear parts, the sprag or something, if there is one involved with that. I feel like with the low power the red car will have once back together (270-280) and the way it'll be driven that it would be fine, but they do know their stuff.
Thanks for the info. I'm looking towards putting 4.10 gears with a c-4 down the road. But we'll see how things work out.
Why a 331 instead of 347?
Because its almost exactly 61 cubic inches/liter so 331 almost exactly equals 5.4, so he can get a 5.4 Triton V8 badge off of an Expedition and use that :hick:
Ok I'll go with that excuse, works for me
I have a PI Stallion non-lock-up 2800 stall converter and the AOD will go into OD below 2800 rpm. My trans does have a one piece input shaft however.
Yea I mean being able to cruise without the rubber band effect haha. Which it's not THAT bad....but while it's apart it would be nice ya know. And for what it is...not gonna see long highway trips, I shouldn't give a rat's ass. It's a lot principle too. It's a classy vehicle, I feel like it's a jacked-up drag car. Tall gears, non-locking converter in a car meant to HAVE that for efficiency and cruisability. Why don't I carb the thing while I'm at it? :giggle: Then again before the AOD, everything Ford made didn't lock. Then again, a normal stall is 2000 or so not 3. And yes the carb comment is hyperbole. This is what I lose sleep over.
I'm gonna call them back, say make me a converter, don't ask questions I'm not gonna cry to YOU when I blow it up, I'll just build a 500 lb-ft AOD for a 300 lb ft car. Then I can 6000 rpm neutral drop it if I want to LOL
EDIT Actually...guess this would work. http://www.dirtydogperformance.com/converters/ford/aod/f-52-stock-aod-converter/prod_15.html He did say their base one is lockup, as it says, "stock replacement". 2600 revs would be alright. New gt40 motor will have plenty of torque with the 3.73s. It's funny my sig says 2600, the guy said this one would be. Goes right to 3k. I'll buy that, and if I'm not happy with the loss of traction I'll just put 195 tires on it. :hick:
Wow that's a hell of a price for a converter. I think I'll start out with that as far as that goes. I'll just keep in mind when I'm buying my cam.
That's not bad. The billet 9.5" PI Stallion converter I have cost almost 7 times that much.......
BILLET jeeez well that explains the cost difference haha.
Yea Zonda. Alan (at Dirty Dog Converters) does know his stuff. I had him build the exact, same direct-drive delete converter you said he built for you. Alan (at Silverfox Performance) is building me a valve body to put in my AOD as we speak. My car should run like a raped ape when I put it on the road!