I want to cut an access panel in my trunk for getting to the fp. My question is has anyone cut there access panel while the tank is still mounted and if you have what did you use to do the cutting without cutting into the wires or lines.
i use these for most of my sheet metal cutting.. just have to drill a starting hole on sheet metal without a flat, exposed edge to start on.. you could use a cut-off wheel as well and cut ALMOST all the way through the trunk pan, then go around it with a screw driver to break it out the rest of the way.. i would suggest at least lowering the tank a little, no matter what route you take, to further prevent damaging your fuel lines/harness
http://www.harborfreight.com/14-gauge-swivel-head-shear-68199.html
I find it odd there is nothing in my diy link below that covers this. I am pretty sure its an update on my other computer i forgot to put up in the library of info
cant seem to find the thread, its been done twice that I know of.
once about 8 years ago theh i think a couple years ago by someone.
I will post pics of my access hole on my white coug when i get back to the house.
Once you get the straps off, its 10 minutes or less. If the bolts aren't rusty, 10 minutes total. There should be enough slack to set it on the ground and you don't even need to jack the car up.
I used a air chisel and cut the very top off without moving the tank then had a cutout from another car with the rounded edge and it sits nicely on top. The only spot that was close to the lines was at the front of the point of the hump in the floor. It took me five minutes to do
I used a Dremel and a cutoff wheel to cut the hole..... Took me about 5 minutes. I then made a new cover panel from a piece of 12"x12" steel I got from Lowe's that I cut to fit. I left the tank in place.I also sprayed the tank up top with the water hose to wet it. No issues. Maybe wasn't the safest way, but it worked for me.
Guys
i love my electric sheers :)
They
yeah they are.. i have a matco pneumatic 1, but it broke on me twice.. the harbor freight cheapy just keeps on ticking
I'm going to agree. When I swapped in my 155lph Walbro I think it took me a whole 45 minutes to complete. I was going slow because the thank was 1/3 full. I didn't want to spill any gas.
Me and my friend jut did one with it over half full. It would have sucked by yourself, but wasn't bad. But when the airtek pump died 1 day in, we both wished we cut the hole.
Dont get me wring I have dropped my take now three times twice for a fp change and once because the rubber gasket that goes around the friller neck got brittle and cracked and started leaking I was just thinking about adding an access door because I think that with the next goaround I would put one in. Oh by the way I use my motorcycle jack to raise and lower the tank if there is more than half a tank.
THe only part you need to cut out is looking in the trunk, there is a ,, what shape is it,,,,,,,,
oh yea,, its shaped like a home plate (baseball) but upside down in the right side of the lower part of the floor panel.
a side grinder with a thin cutting wheel and cutting to the point that your remaining metal is just paper thin is all that needs done.
the odds of hitting wiring are very slim just due to the fact of how the 90deg electrical connector attaches to the pumps housing. the odds of hitting a fuel line is also slim but the clearance in there is a lot more than you would expect.
Alright. You guys talked me into cutting an access hole into the trunk of the RWBB. I have a new 255LPH fuel pump on the way. The tank is sitting on the floor. What better time to cut that hole in the trunk I figured.
Dropping the tank is a piece of cake when it's empty as we all know, but like an earlier post mentioned, what if the pump goes bad when you have a lot of gas in the tank? Now I won't have to worry about that scenario.
that's 1 of the best decisions you could make, even if it's staying stock.. i don't know how you guys keep yours closed, but i use 4 dzues buttons to keep mine in place