So I drove my T-bird yesterday and noticed that the clutch pedal engagement was really low to the floor. It has been too low since I did the swap, and I had planned on eventually buying the necessary parts to remedy it.
However, when I brought the car in the garage to try to adjust the clutch pedal I heard a loud 'pop' and now when you depress the clutch, you can see the whole clutch quadrant move and the car will NOT go into gear. So I assume the plastic POS finally broke.
What kind of setups are you guys running/recommend as far as firewall adjusters, clutch cables, quadrants, etc? I see Steeda (http://"http://www.steeda.com/store/steeda-clutch-adjuster-kits-for-ford-mustang.html") offers a combo deal with firewall adjuster, cable, and quadrant. I really hate to spend the extra dough and replace the brake booster in order to use the firewall adjuster.
It seems as if I have seen cables that are adjustable at the transmission end...anyone use one of these?
Well it looks like Steeda makes and adjustable cable (http://"http://www.steeda.com/store/steeda-adjustable-clutch-cables-for-ford-mustang.html")as well.
Thinking of combining it with their quadrant (http://"http://www.steeda.com/store/steeda-double-hook-quadrants-for-ford-mustang.html")...thoughts?
I have an adjustable cable and aluminum quadrant. Works great for me. I always keep an extra cable as back up just in case. Most parts stores don't keep the adjustable ones.
First
Thanks Vin and Tom. I knew as soon as I did the T-5 swap that I should have changed the quadrant while the pedals were out. Now I get to really have fun :hick:. I am contemplating removing the front seat to gain easier access. I'm 6' 3" so its hard for me to get at anything under the dash.
Looks like the wife will be getting me Steeda parts for Christmas this year.:grinno:
Pull the seat and yank the column.....took me about 45 minutes when I did it last week.
Yeah it may be easier to drop the column than try to fight around it.
Putting my pedals in and interior back together tonight....T5 may be in also!!
I took my time when I did my T5 swap and actually enjoyed it. It really isn't that bad other than the pedal swap part. I also had a hard time cutting a hole in my virgin floorpan, but the fun of rowing the gears is totally worth those few moments of butchery. lol.
It isn't to hard to get out. I'd def. take the seat out though. I'd stick to a factory cable or like stated keep a spare with you. I'd still use an aftermarket firewall adjuster with it. Crawling under the car can be more of a hassle.
As far as the aluminum quadrant goes, I'd also get a double or triple hook. A 90 didn't work for me but ymmv. Before you install it, go to the hardware store and get some rubber O rings that fit tight around the shaft of where the quadrant goes. Put one on each side of the quadrant. That will help keep it quiet and perfectly placed.
Quadrant....has to hammer mine on. Can't see how it would move.
Floorpan...my T5 shifter fit right up in the auto shifter hole. Will post pic later.
What car did you get your pedal box out of? If it came out of a 4 cylinder Mustang, the clutch pedal is different and it'll sit too low for a V8.
What do you mean by "too low". I'm pretty sure my pedal box came from a 4 banger car.
Here's a pic of my shifter through the stock floor opening....no tpuppies required.
(http://photos.imageevent.com/17encore/danb/thunderbird/websize/100_5318.JPG)
My clutch pedal came out of a 93 5.0 Mustang.
I had to cut my floorpan for my shifter because I had column shift.
Just ordered Steeda's double hook aluminum quadrant and adjustable clutch cable.
I have the Steeda unit double hook and adjustable clutch cable on my Coupe and the Bird with zero issues. Had the cable on the Mustang for 8 years as a daily driver and only replaced it a couple of years ago as the outer casing was rubbing on the stock K-memeber. Solved the problem by replacing the K-member with a tubular one and installed a new cable. I did not shim the quadrants and they make zero noise as I like my pedal to be at the top so there is a little preload on the cable.
Darren
Darren, good to hear positive feedback from someone else who has had success with this combo. What "hook" did you use on your quadrant? I am not worried about the cable wearing out or breaking anytime soon as I don't drive the car all that much. Eventually I will probably get a spare to keep in the trunk just in case.
I ordered the quadrant and cable from Summitt racing on Wednesday night and came home from work Thursday to find it on my back porch. Talk about quick shipping!
I am dreading it, but will probably start on things next week sometime. I absolutely hate working under the dash of a car, but removing the front seat should help things along. Everyone told me the pedal swap was the worst part of the T-5 swap and I didn't really think it was all that bad...but then again I had the mindset going into it that it was going to be horrible. lol...I'm thinking changing out the quadrant can't be nearly as bad as the pedal swap.
It has been over 10 years since I installed both so I really don't remember on the Bird but I want to say the second hook was not an option due to cable length issues when I replaced the one on the Mustang. I do remember using an air type sawsall (Craftsman unit with about a 2-3" long blade) to aid in removing the stock plastic quadrant. I went through the clutch cable hole from the engine compartment and just hacked it off as it is much larger than the aluminum piece. Once I did this and quit fighting the stock unit the install went pretty quick. I did not drop the column or pedals but I did remove the driver seat.
Darren
Wow,You didn't use a factory cable! at least your going to carry a spare.lol. You will know how to adjust it when you hook it up,the cable will only reach one hook.Give it very little play.
Also wrap a little electrical tape around the trans end of the cable it frustrating when you get the cable in the quadrant hook just to have it slip back out when you crawl under the car to move the cable rearranging the the clutch fork
It won't start disgengaging the clutch until the pedal is on the floor. The main difference on the 4 cylinder clutch pedal is the square hole the pedal uses to mount to the pedal box is clocked in a different position that makes the clutch pedal sit almost the same height from the floor as the brake pedal. Which is fine for 4 cylinders, but V8 cars need a longer throw on the clutch to disengage it.
The good news is that changing the clutch pedal is easy; it just takes a ratcheting wrench to remove the nut that holds the clutch pedal on.
4 cylinder pedals
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a38/cb400f75/Mark%20vii/Trans%20Swap/pedals1.jpg)
V8 pedals
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a38/cb400f75/Mark%20vii/Trans%20Swap/TCclutchpedal.jpg)
The same could probably be accomplished with the 4cyl pedal by applying heat to it with an acetylene torch and then bending it upwards a tad. (removed from the car of couse, lol)
My Coupe was a 4 cylinder car and is now a 5.0. Never changed the pedals and the clutch engages at the top of the pedal. I would not think that the distance to fully engage a diaphram style clutch would be any different between a 4 cylinder and a 5.0 car as there is no difference between the input shafts on the T-5 in the cars with the exception of the pilot bearing ID on the input shaft. To me this means the bell housings are roughtly the same depth. I just cannot see Ford making two different pedal assemblies for the Mustangs when they could change the clutch fork pivot ball location to change the engagement distance. I am pretty sure the TC pedals are fine when changing to a V-8 in those cars as well. It all seems pretty strange to me but you have obviously found a differnce and have the proof. Never would have figured there was a difference it what I am trying to say.
Darren
I never would have either until I had the two pedals off and side by side. I pulled the pedal box out of a 4 cylinder Mustang at the junkyard. I had heard several times that the pedals for 4 cylinder and V8 were different, and that it was possibly causing my low clutch pedal, but I didn't know exactly what the difference was until I compared the pedals side by side. I wish I would've thought to take a pic while they were both off haha. The only reason I can think they're different is the bell crank on 4 cylinder bellhousings. You're right about the TC pedals; they're the same as V8 pedals, maybe because the TC was more performance oriented. I suspect Turbo Mustangs will work also, but I can't say for sure because I haven't seen a set in person yet.
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I have to keep mine adjusted with about a 1/4 " free play to work right. I even took the mat out to help.
If you're talking about the trans end of the clutch cable, the 5.0 T5 fork and cable end are on the driver's side...
Me too. Gotta keep the mat from sliding up towards the firewall, otherwise, shifting is effected.
Thun
I think i know what you mean...the fulcrum, or the pivot point for the fork..?
Having never seen the 2.3 T5 system, (despite having a 2.3 T5 Stang in my garage) It just seemed odd, but now I have a grasp on it lol
Yes
Well I got the new Steeda clutch quadrant and adjustable clutch cable put in today in about 2 hrs. The quadrant swap went pretty smoothly actually. I had more time in getting the drivers seat back in! The power seat motor that moves the seat forward has decided to quit so that made it extremely difficult to get to the right rear 5/8 nut! (anyone know a good place to get a power seat motor?)
I was afraid of adjusting the cable too tightly and prematurely wearing the clutch out. Where I have it adjusted to right now, the clutch pedal engagement is still a tad close to the floor. Its not nearly as close as before, but I would prefer it be a little higher. In the instructions for the quadrant and cable install, it said that if the cable is adjusted too loosely, you will hear a rattle under the dash. Sure enough during my "shakedown run" I noted a rather nasty rattle coming from the area of the clutch pedal.
Sounds like the car will be going back up in the air before spring for some more adjustment. To those of you with the adjustable clutch cable...got any tips on deciding where the sweet spot is?
On a side note, the T-bird did its first burnout since swapping in the T-5. I never got white smoke and sideways action like that with the AOD!:burnout::evilgrin:
That's the whole point of owning a rear wheel drive V8!!
In my opinion its up to the driver, I have it all out way low close to the floor. But I'm 6'5" and my buddy's mustang he likes it close to the height of the brake pedal. As long as it can fully engage and disengage it should just be a matter of comfort.
Actu
Tom is on the money as usual and if you are looking for longevity of the clutch setup heed his words. Me, I like my pedal at the top so I keep the cable adjusted to where it is about one turn on the nut tight on the clutch fork. The last RAM HD clutch setup went 60K miles and I drove that car really hard. I would put a set of rear tires on every 10K on 200 tread life tires (Yokohama AVS 100's). I think its what you are willing to sacrifice for your driving style and comfort. For me having the clutch start to engage anything lower than the break pedal height does not work but again its my preference. Is it the best for longevity of the clutch setup? Doubt it but then again I did not build either car to see if I can get 100K out of any of the parts. They are built for the sheer grin factor how hard you get into and leave the twists and turns.
Darren