Does anybody have some pics of an installed cooler on their AOD? The thing is, I want to avoid using the zip tie deals that go through the radiator. I used those on an electric fan previously, and the rubbed a hole in the radiator. Fluke, or bad install, Id just prefer not to tempt fate.
Just glancing a couple days ago, it looks like I could easily use a couple of straps up top from the core support, but i dont know what on the bottom to tie into.
Ive only driven the car a little since the aod went in, and the temps creep up after a few miles. Local Mustang club is having a dyno day on the 1st. Its about a half hour away, so Id like to buy parts this week, and knock it out next Saturday.
Thx!
I agre
I'm assuming its best to try to mount the cooler right up against the radiator/condenser? Seems like you would lose air flow if the cooler was spaced out a little towards the core, even if that would probably be easier.
You're actually supposed to space it out at least a half inch. In my T-Bird I used a tranny cooler from a Hemi Ram. The hose ends had broken off and caused a leak and the fencing company that owned it wanted a new one. I installed their new one and made the old one fit my car (I wasn't interested in the quick-disconnect ends that were on it anyway so I cut 'em off, bubbled the ends out with a bubble flaring tool and used rubber hoses and clamps). Then I swapped to a five-speed anyway. Since I had the whole front end off when I installed it and wasn't interested in removing all of that to get it back out, it went when I sold the car.
Bit of a hijack, but still tranny cooler related: My First T-Bird, the 85 V6, I ran the tranny dry a few times (leaking converter seal). I replaced the seal, but the tranny fluid was like tar and smelled horrible. After I changed the fluid it slipped a little when hot. Wanting to extend its life a bit I made a tranny cooler out of an A/C evapourator core from a 70's Caprice. It was 3" thick! I welded 1/2" aluminum plates onto the ends, drilled & tapped for tapered pipe fittings, and made up aluminum brackets to mount it in the car. I made it for a welding project in trade school. Ugly as hell. but it sure kept that C5 cool. It never slipped again, at least until I traded it in on the '91 (my first and only MN12). Then, years later, when I was looking for another Bird, I found a candidate for sale and went to look at it. It was my old car. Different colour, different engine (it was now a 302), but when I opened that hood and saw that cooler I knew it was my old beast. This was confirmed when I looked inside and saw my custom stereo panel (I had two equalizers installed, one in the cubby and one in place of the ashtray, and had made aluminum bezels for them, which went with the car when I traded it. I kept the EQ's). Knowing the history of the trans I asked the guy if he changed it when he installed the 5.0. He said he didn't, so I passed on the car...
Summit sells one that has a fan on it already, could mount it back behind the trans, seen one in hot rod done this way. Or some flat bar stock up by hood latch, and bolt to that, like most people do FMIC.
I had it like this, then I placed it up against the radiator with the plastic through pins
(http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w92/03grinnie/T-bird/DSC00215.jpg)
(http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w92/03grinnie/T-bird/IMAG0403.jpg)
first one was 15x7 the second one is 20x10
I've got a Hayden cooler. I don't know which one but it's big, almost as big as the condensor. I need a big one since I've got a non-lock-up converter. I've got it held on with the through ties. The guy who did the trans put it in. He said as long as the through ties are installed tightly with the rubber blocks they work fine.
How the heck di you guys run the line from the radiator to the cooler? I have a regular tubing bender, and Im having a hard time making this work. I cant 90* off the radiator in a short enough arc to avoid the battery, and if go almost 180* straight up, then try to angle around, there isnt enough tube to hook on the bender to bend.
you need one of these:
http://www.newmantools.com/imperial/tb1.html
I don't have mine going to the radiator, you only need it into your radiator if you live in cold climates to get your tranny up to operating temp to drive, but down in florida I want that tranny lower then my engine:burnout:
Rubber transmission fluid line and brass fittings. That's what most people use when they install a transmission cooler.
Yeah, but I keep being told not to because tracks wont allow rubber hose. I could do that in a heartbeat and be done, although a 90 coming off the trans would still be needed to avoid a kink in the hose.
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I used to race all the time in college, and would like to get back to it every once in awhile. Id be PISSED if I got turned away. The closest tracks are all about an hour away.
Which tracks? Route 66 in Joliet, IL (my nearest track) passes my car fine when they do a NHRA tech inspection. I've got rubber hose from the radiator to the cooler.
Fair enough. I live in Houston. We have Houston Raceway in Baytown, and two smaller 1/8 mile tracks about the same distance in other directions.
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AGGGHHHHH!!!
Bought a brass swivel 90*. The fitting doesnt have enough thread to seal. Bottoms out and the 90 just spins and spins. Couldnt find a straight fitting. Parts stores dont carry anymore.
I just said fark it, cut the stock line about three inches off the quick disconnect. Again, the 90* isnt tight enough to put a hose up through the battery/headlight area, so Ill have to run one hose low around the bottom of the side of the radiator, and the return up past the cap and down to the other side of the line going back to the tranny. Its going to take a ton of hose.
Cooler is in, hoses are hooked up. Its a little late to be starting my car in the neighborhood, so ill check for leaks, and start putting the bumper cover back on tomorrow. I didnt take a pic of the hoses on, but you get the idea. The factory lines are 5/16 of course, but the hayden 679 has 3/8 fittings and hose. I flared the stock lines, and put a fuel injection type clamp just behind the flares, so I think it will be fine. Any opinions to the contrary?
(http://i885.photobucket.com/albums/ac57/mtgmike302/IMAG0162.jpg)
Hose goes from top portion of cut line down to the side of the radiator, actually kind of in the fender well before turning back in front of the radiator. Came out of the top of teh cooler, around the radiator cap, and down back to the cut line back to the trans.
(http://i885.photobucket.com/albums/ac57/mtgmike302/IMAG0164.jpg)
I am
so if the car is a summer driving car only... it would qualify as a warm climate situation?
Yes
Tom,
Thanks for the heads up, ill get it fixed.
I kept reading the upper fitting is the one to tap into, but they were referring to the upper on the case, not the radiator. Wow, doofus. Now that Im getting dirty again, Im thinking about bypassing the stock one alltogether. Houston definitely qualifies as a warm climate. Is the hayden 679 a large enough cooler to handle it on its own? I wish it has threaded fittings, Id just get braided line for the whole run. I have a childhood friend who owns a chain of hose and fitting shops.
Th