Fox T-Bird/Cougar Forums

I cut 3/4ths of a coil off my stock springs, and I cant for the life of me get them back in :mad:

Ive never had this much trouble before.  I tried the internal spring comp I rented from Oriellys.  No dice.  Maybe an external one, Ill try tonight.:punchballs:

Any other tips?

How are you trying to re-install it? I slid my springs up into the top first (strut being unbolted and tie rods disconnected), and once the top was in, I pushed the control arm down with my foot and popped the bottom in, then, I reinstalled the strut at the bottom with the two bolts, and then lifted the control arm with my floor jack until I could bolt the rest together. If the spring came out, it'll go back in....especially if it's now a little shorter.

That is what I usually do Vinnie.  This one is so far off there is no way.  I had to actually use a pry bar and a lot of force to get them even OUT!

You'll need a spring compressor (internal type) to get a stock spring back in.  Externals for coil-over-spring set-ups won't work.  The stock Tbird springs are pretty long.

I know someone (jcassity ?) came up with an internal type that uses a couple 3/8" plates instead of the hooks.  There is also some big monstrosity of an external set-up that I *think* daminc used on his spring installs.

I never use the stock springs, and the FMS C-kits pop right into place w/ no drama.

Another option is to have the springs compressed and banded.  Then you can install them and then cut the bands when you have it together.  I know we did that a couple times at KBs on some monster springs for the C-Vics.

Yet another option is to attach the strut to the spindle, and remove the inner control arm mounting bolts.  Drop the arm and install the spring, and use a jack to push things back into place.  I did this ONCE on the first TBird we had.  Kind of a PITA to get things lined up and the bolts back in place, but it worked.

You did disconnect the tie rod? I'm 195 pounds, and put some force on the lower to push it down. Once the lower part of the spring is in the perch...or mostly, I have kicked it into place. Then the strut and reassembly.

I installed the SN-95 springs with ease. The Sport is VERY forgiving to me. She just loves attention.

 
Oh yeah, I have everything disconnected and the filthy control arm is hanging there in shame.

Im 220lbs and I was bending 2 pry bars and my brother was on the other one. No where near seating in that control arm recess.

 
My cat is making me work for it a little.  She's a little tease.

I had to use internal compresser to put the TC springs in...hopefully Vinnie is right about the Sn springs popping right in, I'm about to go swap 'em...

There's about an inch or 1-1/4 less height on the SN springs, compared to TC, for the fronts, uncompressed. Hopefully it makes it easy to install...I hate fighting springs, it'll kill a day if you don't have the right tools.

I was lucky then. I didn't use a spring compressor for mine.

2x on the spring compressor.  I couldn't have gotten the SN95 springs in otherwise.

Try putting the top in and get the bottom in the best you can. Then jack the control arm up a little.  Stick a piece of 2x4 between the strut mount on the spindle and the spring. Then jack the control arm up.  As the spindle goes up into place, the 2x4 pushes the spring in.  It's worked for me...

 
Sidebar..... where are those brake lines you have!!!

Do you guys have a pic or link of what the one you used looked like?

Mike, i just used the one from Oreilly's..the internal job.

I just stuck my front SN95 springs in, and using the method ivygreen posted, they went right in with minimal fuss. Of course, it's best if the whole strut is out of there...in fact, not sure if one could get a spring in with the strut hanging there anyhow.

I did stick a metal bar about 3/4" dia down through the strut hole, through the spring, and out through the bottom of the arm....just in case, ya know.

I suppose a ratchet strap looped through and tightened to just snug would probably work to keep the spring from flying out and giving you a headache...

As for the brake lines....I'm still lookin...soon as I can find 'em, I'll let ya know. I have no idea where the hell I put them...driving me apeshiznit..

Since 88CougarGT mentioned having to use a compressor, I wonder if some SN95 springs have different uncompressed heights?

Anybody have a chart that would have this, for reference' sake? I'd look, but have to leave for work in a few minutes...

Here is what I was able to pilfer off of a couple of sites with regards to spring rates but there is no reference to spring height.  I have not verified any of this data so take it for what it is worth.  I will keep nosing around.



Darren

I got mine in with the strut still attached to the knuckle. 

Easiest way I've found to do it.
1. Jack vehicle, support, and remove wheels.
2. Turn the wheel all the way to the side you are working (eg all the way left for the drivers side.
3. Put some painters tape along your fender flares to protect the paint.
4. Remove the Caliper retiring pins and hang it with some zip ties.
5. Place jack under the Unbolt the shock tower bolt.
6. Collapse the shock and pull it out away from the car.  No need to unbolt the strut from the knuckle.  (It may make it easier, but you will have to pull the wheel bearing/rotor).
7. Lower jack and pry out old spring. KEEP CLEAR OF SPRING.
8. Compress new spring and put it in place.
9. (This usually requires two people, but I've done it with one) - Align the spring an raise the lower control arm with the jack.
10. Compress shock and guide it back into tower.  This can be kind of a pain,  I don't have much good advice here.  If you removed the strut this step would be easier but I was able to do it with a few tries.
11. Re-assemble shock, brakes, tires, etc.
12. Road test.

my bullit springs went in no prob. came out just as easy

here is a pic... I couldn't get the spring seated back in without compressing it a bit
(http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/ee79/daminc/front%20end/IMG_5384.jpg)

then I got  a little pressure under it, and unclamped the spring. then finished jacking it up to attach the strut. unfortunately.... without having a motor in it, I didn't have enough weight to pull everything together. So I was sitting on the frame rail, and I had my wife stand on the rad support to pull the front end down enough to bolt the top of the strut... the front end still sits very high 6 months after the motor went in... I might have to swap them for something else.
(http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/ee79/daminc/front%20end/IMG_5385.jpg)

it is easier taking the springs out?
i'm likely putting airbags in mine, but don't have the correct spring compressor to do these springs.

WOW talk about dangerous ways to change springs.  If you have a spring get away from you it will ruin your day for life. Basically if you do not have the proper tools or know how DONT DO IT. Use an internal clamp thats the proper way. It works with or without an engine in the car. Just me i like to do things safely.

Finally you said something worth quoting...

 
I know a guy here who was trying to put in a spring...it came out, hit him in the forehead and knocked his ass out colder than ice.

When I put my Sn95 springs in this last time, I used a jack to compress the control arm and spring, but...I stuck a metal bar down through the strut tower, through the inside of the spring, and all the way through the control arm itself. If the spring happened to have shot out, at least it wouldn't do any harm. Not the safest way, but better than nothing at all. I used a piece of round steel stock, about 3/4" or so dia, and about 4' long. Clamped a pair of vice-grips on top, above the strut tower so it wouldn't hit the ground, and cause a bind as I was lifting the control arm up.

I may die in this car someday, but I will not die putting the  thing together.

Dont worry thunder sport i tried to pass on info that i accumulated for 50 years but no one is taking it on this site. So with your statement it made me realize i am wasting my time. So i will no longer post on this site.  But in closing the people that posted their spring changing techniques are going to get hurt. In all the years i have never herd such dangerous ways of changing springs. With that said if i helped anyone great if i came off as a fool thats fine. Good BY

Finally you said something worth quoting...

 This statement hurt me and made me realize i am wasting my time Good Day Gentlemen.

Tom, I was being ironic, in that (almost) nobody is going to suddenly start doing things the proper or safe way when they've been doing it improperly or unsafely for X amount of time...

No need to leave...I'm a sarcastic person by nature. It wasn't my intention to make you feel or look like you don't know shiznit from peanut butter. For that I'm sorry.
Hell, maybe I should leave. I contribute nothing, ask too many questions, and my car is a filthy, worn out heap with a shiznit pile of second hand parts thrown at it. Maybe I DO belong in a Mustang...god knows I'm apparently not the proper image in a Thunderbird..OR a Chevy.

Heh, whatever. I don't care what people think of me, or my car. It's muddy, multi-colored, and probably a bigger mess than anything you've ever seen, but it pleases me, and that's about all I have to say.

Personally, and this applies to myself mostly, there is always room for safety. Yeah, I didn't use a spring compressor (this last time..) but I did make sure the springs weren't going to fly out...


Anywho, back on topic. Hung the passenger fender, with '97 Stang GT springs in the front, it doesn't appear to be any lower than the stock Sport springs...maybe it'll settle down after a few days, the engine has only been in since sunday night..

Beau, the Sport was the same way. I swapped the rack, LCA's and the springs all at once, and when I was done, I was thinking to myself....."It looks the same !!!!". " !!!"...after I drove the car a little, it settled down and the Sport is about 1 1/2 inches lower all around. I like it, and it's still very functional without having to come to a near complete stop to creep over a speed bump.

Hmmmm.... compared to my everyday real job... putting those 2 springs in was probably one of the safest jobs I did that year..[COLOR="#8b0000"] I also would recommend an internal spring compressor.[/COLOR]
here's my office.... it's got a view .... and yes, that's ice on all the wood
(http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/ee79/daminc/work%20stuff/104-0463_IMG_JPG.jpg)

Wow Jerry, you guys sure do get py weather....84 the other day, and ice/snow now! lol, I kid.

Serious injury or death can occur when a coil spring suddenly unleashes tension.
I've seen the aftermath of one that went through a cylinder block wall. I saw a kid take his arm off with a spring.

I do not know how to walk rafters that is why i hired a contractor to build my addition. On the other hand i have changed literally hundreds of  coil springs. Mess with them and they hit you and you will wish you flew off that roof instead.  This is just some good advice. I dont walk RAFTERS BUT i do install springs. If you think they are not DANGEROUS you should stick to FRAMING. Just passing on some friendly advice. Anyone that takes a spring change LIGHTLY IS A FOOL. BYE BYE

never said it wasn't dangerous. it's all relative to something else. that's all I was getting at