Think I need new ones?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xDDKoedmj80&feature=youtube_gdata_player
Holy !!!! Yes, I would say swap them asap. I have brand new "cushions" in my "for sale" listing cheaper than you can buy them down town. Never used. I still have to install my ChuckW mounts. I'll probably do that next week. I'm taking 4 days off to just do whatever I want to do.
WOW!!! Get those cushions from Vinny ASAP!!! Your gonna break your exhaust, fan shroud and have a nice custom lump in your hood!
WOW!!! Get those cushions from Vinny ASAP!!!
I've been waiting almost 5 years to install my CW mounts......Put some stockers in, got the car back on the road and the mounts came about 2 days later. Figured I'd have to swap them soon enough......The CW mounts are in hibernation all wrapped up in a box. Seems I got some magic factory stock mounts.....
LAMO my 96 does the exact same thing. They've been broken for about 2 months. I keep wanting to replace them but I thought I had to pull the whole motor but now that I know I can do it from underneath, I have no $$ to buy mounts with....
Oh well. I'll just sit back and enjoy the free massage... dear god that thing rattles the whole car constantly....
Luckily my 3.8 doesn't have enough TORQUE to break the exhaust so I don't have to worry about flipping the engine:rollin:
Its like something from some kind of zombie flick.... Scary as hell.
Just weld a chain to the frame. That's the way we fixed motor mounts when I was a kid.....
I have considered many, many options as far as "fixing" them goes. While the car is down for the t-5, I plan to make my own mounts. Either I don't know how to drive my cars, or the constant heat-cold cycles we get here effect the rubber worse. I would say 5 out of 6 of my v-8's have done this.
Right now, I am either going to break down and use a motor plate, make my own rubber center section and drill a large hole in the bottom mount for a bolt, or I will just get a peice of pipe as a spacer and use the same idea.
You can not tell the motor mounts are bad, unless you power brake it hard. it might do it from a hard downshift. No real vibration other then the motor hitting back down. I have no faith in replacement "stock" mounts, as a brand new one broke within about 30 miles and one brake stand.
That or my car is mad with power, even if my station wagon rapes it from a stand still.
Oh, btw, who else do you know that car pop their hood with their right foot? If I tape the saftey latch open, it kicks right up.
I also think this might be a heat cold thing because the best way to tell if a car has a 5.0 at the junk yard is to look for a dent in the hood.
The only mounts I've had break were the originals from the factory, and I'm sure that was due to age. Even with the driving I do,and the added torque of this engine, the stock style replacements have held strong. Are yours originals or replacements? ChuckW mounts are a quality option. I like some kind of cushion (as opposed to solid) for comfort reasons. Fast and cushy......nice.
I get to attempt to replace mine tomorrow on my 96. Yay........ I don't think its going to solve all my problems b/c unless the internal shaft made that much of a difference in 88 my 3.8 should not be shaking/vibrating so much. My 88's mounts were broke for months and it didn't rattle. I think I have an intake gasket leak, since I can't find any broken vaccum hoses, and I have a very mysterious and very seriously large coolant leak that I cannot find. I think coolant is getting fed into my cylinders and combusting. It runs through an entire overflow bottle and radiator in about the span of 4 days or a couple hundred miles. Its bad.
Although, don't know why 5.0's all want to bounce up and hit the hood.... all of my 3.8 mounts have a failsafe that keeps them it from getting away. They have a slot on the frame side that a large metal tab on the engine side sticks through, to prevent it from getting away. Either 5.0's have wayyyy to much torque or that's a py design....
The 5.0 mounts have that tab as well. Some mounts are bent, or have been cut for header clearance.