Little update on the engine swap. This has really been a pain. I try to read up on everything before I dive in so I know what to expect, but it seems like this thing just want to fight me. I ordered a 1" thick EGR spacer delete because everybody says that the thinner ones require an upper to lower spacer to keep the heater tube from hitting the throttle.
No dice. The bracket hits the tube and wont let me bolt it on.
(http://i885.photobucket.com/albums/ac57/mtgmike302/IMG_20110325_182225.jpg)
It also places the throttle stud to close as well.
(http://i885.photobucket.com/albums/ac57/mtgmike302/IMG_20110325_182252.jpg)
(http://i885.photobucket.com/albums/ac57/mtgmike302/IMG_20110325_182447.jpg)
WTH? How thick of a spacer does this take? The throttle and TV cables seem very difficult to route around the heater hoses. Mine has the extra temp sender in the hose, I assume for the auto controls. That really gets in the way. Are the cables supposed to go behind and under the hoses?
Overall pic:
(http://i885.photobucket.com/albums/ac57/mtgmike302/IMG_20110325_182725.jpg)
This makes me want to go buy a lower dist cap piece.
EDIT***
Just realized this TB wont work anyways. HA. Bought it off Tmoss, didnt even think about it, he probably didnt either, no TV cable bracket.
Double farts.
Ill have to see if I can ize it with the oem part. Not that this changes the original problem, just keeps me from being pissed about thsi keeping me from making headway.
EDIT***
Just realized this TB wont work anyways. HA. Bought it off Tmoss, didnt even think about it, he probably didnt either, no TV cable bracket.
Double farts.
Ill have to see if I can ize it with the oem part.
No other way around the spacer/tb. Im gonna snag some longer bolts and washers.
Any input on the cables vs heater hoses?
If someone could snap a pic of theirs that would be greatly appreciated.
Why don't you just run an EGR spacer and put a block off plate on the EGR port. Than everything will line up like it should. If you deside to stay with the EGR delete spacer it will have to be at least 1.5" to 2".
You have to change the plate that is mounted to the shaft with the old throttle body. The shaft is mushroomed over the plate, take a grinder and grind it down. Put the old plate on the exploder t/b and put a couple spots of weld on.,,, I would just run the egr, especially if its a DD.
+1
Mine is not a DD and I'm running the EGR (the Thermactor system and cats are gone though) as it increases gas mileage. Hell at WOT the computer shuts the EGR off.
As stated above, remove the lever assembly from the shaft on the throttle body, replace it with the stock one from the original t-body, tack weld in the middle....carefully as not to melt the plastic parts. I've done a lot of those Explorer throtle body conversions. takes about 5 minutes.
As for the spacer, I had my stocker opened up to 65mm at a local machine shop for $10.00. Now it matches the throttle body and the intake.
My cables are over the heater hoses, not under. I really can't remember how it was when I got the car. I know they work great. I may run them lower later. Just make sure there's no binding.
Hey Guys forgive me for being a noob on this site, I'm not sure if I am posting in the correct section or manner. I am trying to find out what it takes to convert to mass air from speed density also more info on swapping to exploder intake and more. thanks.
I used the following as a guide:
http://www.coolcats.net/tech/advanced/massair.html
Just in case...you shouldnt go mass air until you have swapped to HO specs(cam, etc). I did both at the same time. Just dont go mass air(a9l,a9p) on the SO engine.
Explorer intake is covered in great detail everywhere, just search/google explorer intake swap.
thanks man, i'll check it out.
Hey guys, just in case you were wondering...
It's a good idea to put the oil level sensor in the oil pan before you pour 5 qts of fresh oil into your new engine.
FML.
If you put the sensor in first, that makes the oil change too easy. I've got to go out this evening and pull the oil level sensor from the Sport because I'm changing oil tomorrow.
Mtgmike, where's the update on the throttle linkage cure?
Ahh, I gave in and bought a Summit branded spacer. The machine shops we deal with would either have a big minimum charge, or would have wanted to take forever for a favor deal, so i just bought one to be safe. i was a little concerned about sealing up with the oem one bored out. I know people have done it, but thats the way I went.
The lines still look strangely bent, but they bolted in.
Getting close. In laws are coming in this weekend, but I should have a start vid soon after.
How about a pic of the spacer......glad you got it done. Did you address the throttle linkage, meaning, did you swap on a Fox linkage to the Explorer t-body?
+1
(http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk191/V8Demon/IMG_2111.jpg)
Oh yeah, I took a grinder to the linkage bar until the mushroomed tab was flush, then kind of pulled it off by hammering two screwdrivers in from opposing sides. That ruined the spacers and springs, but I had the extra set. I made sure our welder knew not to get the area too hot because of the spacers, and he tacked the mustang linkage on the exploder shaft.
The spacer is kind of ugly next to my painted intake and TB. Ill paint it later, but im getting impatient. Ill take a pic soon.
I work at a heat treating shop, so it's nice to have access to a shot blast cabinet, sand blast cabinet, die grinders, presses, two full time welders, etc.
Well, got her primed up and hit the key and the car would start right up, and run for a second, but die soon after. Sounds good. Some ticking/possibly a miss, but i couldnt keep it running to get under the hood before it shut off. About six tries in, the solenoid hung up and kept the starter engaged. Yanked the cable, and replaced it, but the battery was pretty much dead at that point, wouldnt even jump with my Tundra hooked to it.
The tps is set, but it wouldnt run long enough to get the timing dialed in.
I have the battery on a slow charger today, ill try again tonight.
Well, cranked right up!!!
I was pumped till I heard a horrid exhaust leak. Its right around the header to pass. x pipe . i took the 02 sensor out and tightened it down, and took another video, but no dice, its just as bad.
I was going to upload the vid, but I have an HD Kodak digicamcorder...30 secs of hd video...50mb.
I have the original fox headers, so ill try that tomm. If that doesnt fix it, I guess Ill have to buy another x pipe.
Original factory header sealed up fine. The bbk's cone was too short, so the x pipe bottomed out on the without sealing.
Guess Ill have to buy some frpp headers.