Well driving around in the snow/sleet/rain combination in New England these past couple days made me wish I had a couple things. Traction Control might help, ABS brakes would help too, but a Transmission that holds a gear to engine brake would be even nicer.
Now a stock AOD on the gear selector has OD, D, and 1. Can anything be adjusted to make D hold second gear, or for 1 to hold second gear? Like going down hills and stuff in 1st isn't really an option. I was just curious if this was possible with some sort of easy adjustment.
my friend and a kit in his mustang that makes D 2 and OD just regular D and then OD is a switch on the dash ill have to find out were he got it at
If the lever is on D or OD on the selector but you are driving at say 30 mph or so, you're not in overdrive, you're in 3rd gear. If you pull it down to "1", it will go to 2nd gear. If you continue decelerating to say 15 mph or so (depending on how tight/loose your TV cable is adjusted and your gearing) it will then grab 1st gear. In each case it will actually engage the OD band as well I believe, or whatever component it uses to engage lockup. But if you pull the lever down to "1", it will lock the driveline directly to the engine, no slippage from the converter, so you'll definitely get engine braking.
Epoxy mod valve body. I have one in mine and can get any gear manually. It's pretty fun to shift it manually, especially with a column shifter ;).
So in theory the car is already set up like I want. If I'm going 30ish mph and I hit first, the car is only going to shift down into second, right? I never tried it, because I thought 1 was simply 1. I figured it would drop the car into 1st at 30 and It'd more than likely blow first gear.
Now I don't know much about transmissions, but putting the car in first will will use the OD bands? Can you explain this? If the car in fact will shift into 2nd at 20-30mph going from OD or D, then that is what I want, I don't need any modifications.
Back when I was a teen, I would take my couguar (86 5.0 w/ AOD) to the 1/8 mile track. The guys there taught me to shift down to 1. When I was read for second gear, shift up to D then back down to 1, then back up to D for 3rd gear. On 1/8 mile tack only needed the first two gears if I remember. If you want to experiment. Try it out in low speeds to where you won't hurt anything form.
Thanks for the input. Sounds like the same thing they were saying. You were just using it to speed up. I can't beat on my car... It'll break. :/
Google AOD Shuffle....then google AOD Epoxy mod.
Go visit click click racing.
http://www.clickclickracing.com/forums/showthread.php?2817-AOD-1-2-3-4-Shift-Pattern-(EPOXY-Mod)
Well while chasing down my EGR/sputtering problem, I tested this. While going about 27 I shifted into "1" on the floor shifter, the car shifted into 2nd and as I slowed more, shifted into 1st gear. So in all honesty, the car does what I wanted, I was just too scared to try it, lol.
Early C4s had a D and a green dot. The D started you out in second gear for snow driving and general grandma and grocery fetching activities. Shifting into "green dot" gave you all 1-2-3 gears.
This useless tidbit brought to you by CougarGT.
Yeah speed governors and accumulators, etc will prevent the transmission from trying to actually apply gears before the right speed range is reached.
That epoxy mod sounds great but then you lose OD lockout. Naturally not an issue if you have an "A" or better servo and a wider band, but personally I wouldn't want it instantly dumping itself right into OD every freakin' time I go above 40-50 mph and let off LOL. Just my own OCD-ness. I gotta make my own VB and instrument panel surround that has 1, *2* and D and OD positions. Then it will literally have all of em. :hick:
Yeah, the epoxy mod would probably be the best fix without going to a newer trans. I guess you can do the shuffle, but it will wear it out quicker. I personally do it alot just for fun at 50 to55 mph just for fun, but I also have a new engine and am looking to upgrade to a stick, so doesn,t bug me much.
It's not bad. Just keep your foot in it ;). I should have mentioned that I have an A+ billet servo and a 2" OD band. It's pretty much a requirement with and epoxy-mod valve body.
Exactly. I of all people should know to just keep haulin' LOL
I've never had a problem with OD wander *but* I do live in Chicago, which is flat as a pool table. I could see it being a problem in a hilly area, maybe.
Yeah plenty of elevation change around here, but that notwithstanding, I don't use OD until at least 60 mph. At that point I'm at 3 grand in D, you are as well naturally, same gearing. But I keep the rpm's at about 2500 or so. So much better there haha, just lay into it and it wants to moooooove. That's why I wrestle back and forth over this newfound power and torque I'll have. I'd like to go to 3.45's or 3.27s just to get it lower in OD on the highway for noise and wear and tear and I GUESS mpg maybe. Lol. But I always tend to keep it in a gear that puts the engine in it's power range. 3.73's just fit this car so well.
With the 2800 stall non-lock up converter and 3.73s I'm turing about 2800-3000 in OD at 70-75mph on the highway. It should be about 2400 rpm at 70mph but the converter slips about 400-500 rpm because it's a non-lock up. With the windows up and the A/C on it's quiet in the cabin. Noise and a down shft to 2nd gear is just a throttle blip away.
Keep the 3.73s and stop being a wussy ;).
Interesting, Im usually in 5th in my fastiva by 30 mph :P Nothing like accelerating from 1200rpm like most cars do from 2500rpm.
Then again I pretty much have the power-weight ratio of a corvette...
IMO the lower the rpm the better. Then again most of you guys dont DD your "fast" car.
All hail the Festivus!!! :hick: haha. I'll see what happens with a locking converter. I'll be grabbing dirty dog's locked version of the converter I have now before it's all back together. As Lou said it ought to drop 400 rpm or so. You're below stall speed at that highway speed, so it's gonna slip, waste energy and fuel. That's what drag cars do LOL, I want this car to be more like the car it was built as, so I'm going with lockup. I got this one second-hand reaaal cheap, so I said screw the lockup. But I can afford to pay for a new one now, so I will. A hardened lockup shaft will be in the mix as well, so I don't snap it with the valvebody setup and a GT40 motor...
I went non-lock up so I wouldn't kill the lock up shaft. After all I plan on dropping on a KB 2.0 blower one day..........:).